4L60e Valve body replacement question

For those that have replaced the valve body on a 4L60E Trannny, beyond a rebuilt valve body, what other soft parts should I buy/replace while swapping out the body (or can recommend a soft parts kit that we know works). Also, looks like this could be done with the tranny still in the truck, true statement? And finally, does anyone have a recommendation for a superior rebuilt valve body supplier (if one is better than the others before I buy a standard rebuild).

In case anyone is wondering, it's a 2007 H3 with 220k. No shavings just some (what I believe) are soft part pressure issues. Occasional lethargic shifts that are getting more inconsistent. Figured I would try a valve body before committing to a full rebuild.

Thanks guys!

Yes, the changeout can be done with the tranny still in the truck. The valve body is unique to the H3. It has a "cut off corner" to fit in the pan that gives clearance for the front driveshaft. The Valve Body Pro guys in San Jose are great to work with. Since the OEM units are out of production and on WW back order , cores are really hard to come by. I have one new OEM and one rebuilt (part# 20-122C that I had them rebuild) unopened on my shelf. If you contact them and they don't have one available, since I have the OEM for a backup, I'll let you have my rebuild.
Also, when you change out the valve body, be sure to replace the plastic OEM 1-2 accumulator piston with an aftermarket metal one. They are inexpensive and the plastic ones are very prone to scoring and even breaking in half. After you have had the pan off, it is a good idea to add a MAGNEFINE or AC DELCO in line tranny filter. There is an ideal spot where the flexible line exits the radiator.
Best of luck

Ordieh,

Thats excellent info. I came to most of the same information after a few hours of searching the web. No one has rebuilt h3 valve bodies in stock, but will rebuild if you send them one. Any recommendations on the metal piston? Sonnex seems to be the go to supplier.

I might take you up on your offer. I have a couple of calls in that from suppliers that I am still waiting on. But I am sure they will all come back empty.

So as an update, if anyone is interested.

I am in the process of replacing the "soft parts" of my transmission. The current "new" symptoms are intermittent pressure loss of the transmission. Sometimes, especially when the transmission is very cold (30 degrees or below) I am unable to build fluid pressure and have no movement forward or reverse. I have verified that the pressure is reduced by checking the AT fluid level while running; it is higher than the fill line and drops when the pump is running (and the vehicle moves normally). This shows the pump is not pumping correctly. What leads me to a soft part and/or pump pressure regulator issue is that it will work at full pressure randomly after an engine restart. I believe there is a combination of cross-pressure loss, possible cracks in the plastic accumulator pistons, and/or perhaps a worn pump pressure regulator. Ultimately, I think I am experiencing pressure loss independent of pump performance.

I will be replacing:
1. The entire valvebody with a rebuilt one.
2. The forward Accumulator piston with a Sonnax Pinless piston on the valve body (remove plastic piston)
3. The 1/2 and 3/4 accumulator pistons with Sonnax pinless pistons (Same reason and to add new seals)
4. New Reverse Booster valve and Pressure regulator piston
5. New Valve body plate and gaskets
6. Immidized check ball replacement
7. New valve body manifold pressure sensor/switch

Once all the parts come in, I will tear it apart. If anyone can think of anything else please chime in. I do not intend on pulling the transmission. If these parts fail to provide to correct the problem, then its full rebuild.

I would also add, the transmission randomly works great, then doesn't, then works again. It does not throw codes.

gamma195 said:

So as an update, if anyone is interested.

Click to expand...

I’m interested. It’s only a matter of time before more of us will have to repair or replace our transmissions. Thank you for sharing.

Here is the initial results from my parts install. Tranny seems to shift much better now and is stronger. I did have a lot of dark clutch/band dust in there, so I am still not sure if this is just a short-term fix or a long one. I will update everyone in a month or if it starts to slip again. But, the transmission operates much better than it did before. Took 8 1/2 quarts of Dextron 6 to refill. Any parts I list here work, as they worked for mine. Everything should work on all model years with the exception of the valve body, rock auto show different part number 2009 model years and up.

1. The entire valve body with a rebuilt one. Completed.
I got mine at rockauto. It worked for me, but my H3 is a 2007.ACDELCO19209028{#24224998} . I am pretty sure its different for 08's and up, but should work for 06-08s. The key difference is the number of solenoids. the older one has 4, the newer (and alphas) have only 3. The picture I attached only shows three, that's because I had to remove one to get the TCC solenoid bolts out. That solenoid is hardwired into the wiring harness. Also, Hummer and Colorado Valvebodies have a 45 degree cut in the casting, that's what makes them harder to find.

2. The forward Accumulator piston with a Sonnax Pinless piston on the valve body (remove plastic piston). As a side note, this kit does remove the guide pin for the piston. The kit includes a ball bearing which you use to block the hole and then gently stake in. Meaning, tap in the ball with a punch, use a chisel around the opening to make indents to block the ball from backing out. Sounds tough, was super easy. The pin is removed becuase the new piston is longer and has two seals, making it stable in the bore; it no longer requires a guide pin for stability. It also seals better!
I can confirm the new ACDELCO rebuild valve body listed above comes with a plastic piston. Get rid of it and use this instead:https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2518-pinless-forward-accumulator-piston-kit

3. The 1/2 and 3/4 accumulator pistons with Sonnax pinless pistons (Same reason and to add new seals). The kit includes a ball bearing which you use to block the hole and then gently stake in. Meaning, tap in the ball with a punch, use a chisel around the opening to make indents to block the ball from backing out. Sounds tough, was super easy. You only block one port even if you are replacing both pistons.
These also worked.SONNAX7799803K. you need two of these. https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2520-pinless-accumulator-piston-kit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GSOY3EU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This link has both items 2 and 3 in a kit.

4. New Reverse Booster valve and Pressure regulator piston. This DID NOT WORK. The H3's 4L60E, has an ISS sensor that blocks access to this piston. Only way to get the sensor out is to pull the tranny out and remove the pump. As I could not remove the sensor I did not replace this part.

5. New Valve body plate and gaskets.
I bought a new ACDelco plate from rockauto, came with gaskets glued on. This is the easiest way to go. You also need the smaller accumulator pump housing gasket if you buy just the plate

6. Immidized check ball replacement. If you read somewhere that you have to 'peen' the new valve body plate, I can confirm that with a new plate YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DO THIS. Just install the new plate and new balls. Hold them in with petroleum jelly during install.
These are on amazon, size .250 Inch pack of ten.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTSCDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

7. New valve body manifold pressure sensor/switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LSQ146/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get it from Amazon worked fine.

8. Filter. Small thing here. Buy one with a gasket, filter, AND NEW O-RING/SEAL. It was clear that while my tranny had been flushed before, they used a cheaper kit without replacing the o-ring. It was cracked causing the pump to suck in some air with the fluid. That is not a good thing.

Here are a couple of pictures. A couple of the plastic accumulator pistons and one of the original valve body. I will take a couple of more pictures of the old valve body tomorrow for reference.