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Ordering new shocks today. Want some final input

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
I am ordering my new shocks today and finally getting Rid of the stock one that have 100k on them. I’m pretty sure I’m getting the bilstein 5100s. But I was wanting some input from you guys. I want to improve my ride quality while getting something that can handle anything I throw at it. Right now the bilsteins are about $67 each on amazon. From what I’ve read these are the best in the upper mid range. Right? I know there are more expensive ones, ones with external reservoirs, etc.
i don’t really have a budget for these. But at the same time I don’t want to drop a grand on shocks. So what do you all think. Just get the 5100s for all four. Or get two different ones up front or in the rear. Or what? I’m just looking for some experience and input please.

Thanks in advance guys.
 

SlcHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
368
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
I was in the same boat, 140k on original shocks and the rears were worn out. I ended up going with the Bilstein 5100's because of price and reviews and have not been disappointed. With that said, if I ever have to replace these I'll likely upgrade to the fox 2.0 shocks to see if the ride quality is any better.
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,300
Location
Wisconsin
Yeah lol,
You've got your mind all made up so really just go for it.
I've personally tried several brands from cheapo to medium grade and there's not much difference if you're not heavy off roading.
On the low end cheapo Gabriel $20. Then Gabriel ultra $38, not that bad. Skyjacker $45, again not bad.
Of course ACDELCO oem. Kyb. Bilstein 4600.
The 4600 are exactly the same as the 5100 save for the chrome outer shell and slight extra length.
I confirmed this with Bilstein before ordering. The internals are identical according to them.
You will need to have the front torsion bars cranked in order to get the benefits of the 5100's.
 

Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
Oem adventure shocks have great ride quality. I found the 5100 to be too harsh. Would probably go with the Fox setup next time and see how they perform.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,442
Location
Scottsdale
I really like the 5100s, and I like the OEM Adventure shocks too. I've had two or three 5100s fail from wheeling them (oil leaks) but I seem to be the exception to the norm.
 

H3V8

Well-Known Member
Messages
94
Location
Texas
I switched from OEM adventure shocks to the 5100s and found the OEM adventure shocks to offer a better ride quality overall. However, I do find that on some trails the OEM shocks get maxed out more often perhaps due to the torsion bar crank whereas the 5100s seem more smooth on the same trail since they are a bit longer.

Happy with the 5100s overall. If I ever go back to stock angles, I'd prefer the OEM adventure shocks.
 

Tengo1

Active Member
Messages
32
Location
Vegas
Question, so I went with OEM ACDelco Adventure shocks due to price, $220 shipped for all four. But now I’m staring at my H3 and am tempted to crank the Torsion bars to raise the front up a little, as I’ve always left it at the factory setting. Is this a bad idea without putting 5100’s on it? I know the 5100’s description says for lifts from 0”-2.5”. What about the oem adventure shocks?
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
You'll be fine. Cranking the T bars just extends the shocks, it does not increase travel.

True. But you need to make sure the shocks are long enough. Alot of guys crank their t-bars, not realizing that their stock shocks are essentially “topped out”. This will cause a very rough ride and will drastically shorten the life of the shocks. You can fix it by installing some extensions on the shocks, or by installing longer shocks, so they run more towards the middle of their stroke.

Whatever you decide on...make sure the shocks have plenty of stroke remaining in both directions, while sitting at ride height. Ideally you want the travel to be limited by other means than the shock’s piston (bump stops and limit straps). Get this wrong and you can pull the shock apart at full droop, or cram the piston into the end of the tube at full compression.
 
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