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Drivers Window and Door Locks Not Working

K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
Well I found the culprit this time the connectors inside the driver side door need to be replaced. Anyone know the part numbers? Both connectors, see pics. I'm not sure how it's going to be replaced, but if I get the parts I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out with some help.

Thanks.
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K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
In the meantime, my drivers window is half way up. How can I pull it all the way up? I suppose I can take the door panel off and see what's holding it in. Any ideas?

Thanks.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
Hose down the connectors and terminals with WD-40 or some aerosol contact cleaner, and plug em back in. They might just be corroded. If you get em to work...unplug em again and use some No-Ox paste on them.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,401
Location
Way up north, UT
I haven't looked recently, but I have seen the entire harness from inside the doors for sale on Ebay in the past. Could check there as well.
 

lsv_palana

Well-Known Member
Messages
383
Location
Kamchatka, Russia
cut wires that lead to broken pins and connect them via another connector (2 or 3 wires).. i am always do this. work great.. gm connectors - maded very bad.. i use old ones fron japan cars..

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K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
I'm checking junk yards. Ebay has passenger door, not drivers door unfortunately. Will rewire if I can't find it.

Can that window be locked into place so it's all the way up?

Thanks.
 

f5moab

Mr. Beretta
Messages
1,986
Location
Hiding in a potato patch in Idaho
You can easily replace the pins.
To get the motor to raise the window, pull of the door panel, access the window motor and ground the brown wire and apply 12 volts to the d/blue wire. That should raise the window. If not reverse the wiring.
You can do it via the connector but not sure of the pinout numbers.
Door panel not hard to pull off. Then to make sure you don't lower it again, just leave the window motor disconnected.
 

K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
You can easily replace the pins.
To get the motor to raise the window, pull of the door panel, access the window motor and ground the brown wire and apply 12 volts to the d/blue wire. That should raise the window. If not reverse the wiring.
You can do it via the connector but not sure of the pinout numbers.
Door panel not hard to pull off. Then to make sure you don't lower it again, just leave the window motor disconnected.

Hey, thanks. I was wondering about that. I'll raise the window that way.

When you say replace the pins, are you referring to the pins in the connector that are corroded and broken?

Thanks again!
 
Last edited:

f5moab

Mr. Beretta
Messages
1,986
Location
Hiding in a potato patch in Idaho
At one time, GM's connector pins were available and usually quite easy to replace. A kit included the small tools that allowed the pin to be backed out of the connector. I'm assuming they are still available since I have to believe that GM's connectors and pins are designed the same now as they were.
Personally, have no idea what the costs would be for a kit, since anything I needed was "free" to me.

As for a replacement connector. GM was notorious for changing part numbers on just about everything so I would check with a dealer. All dealers should have access to Hummer parts and part numbers/manuals. It's all electronic.
 

K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
Do you know which wire controls the locks? The rear door (tailgate) is locked.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 

lowtrac

Well-Known Member
Messages
222
Location
Georgia
I have a similar problem brewing but I’m still able to poke the door end of the cable and get it working again when it stops. Is there a special way to get that plug disconnected from the door? I can move the grey lever up and down but can’t seem to get the harness to disengage from the door.


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K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
I have a similar problem brewing but I’m still able to poke the door end of the cable and get it working again when it stops. Is there a special way to get that plug disconnected from the door? I can move the grey lever up and down but can’t seem to get the harness to disengage from the door.


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Yeah I had the same trouble disconnecting it. That lever has to be all the way up, vertically. Then I was able to disconnect it.

So, my rear door (tailgate) is locked. Unlike the side doors, there no manual lever. How can I unlock it so I can access the rear?

TIA.
 

lowtrac

Well-Known Member
Messages
222
Location
Georgia
Take a look at page 70 of this document:

https://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Hummer-H3-Wiring-2007-1-4.pdf

It looks like there’s a tan wire (number 5) coming out of the driver’s door switch plate. I wonder if you can trace that wire back through the harness into the vehicle and put 12v on it. It seems that it should unlock all the doors. Maybe somebody else more knowledgeable will chime in.


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K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
There might be a latch inside the door where the tire jack is, but mine will be hard to get too because I have built a shelf back there and I have drawers up against it.
 

lowtrac

Well-Known Member
Messages
222
Location
Georgia
I don’t think there is, but it may be easier to get to the wiring harness back there than to try to track it down under the dash.


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K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
I haven't tried yet. On one of those fix-it websites, someone claimed there is a latch, but those websites are mainly click bait and don't help very often.

Before I crawl back there, does anyone know if there is a manual latch on the rear door?

TIA
 

lowtrac

Well-Known Member
Messages
222
Location
Georgia
If you don’t have an answer by the time I get home this afternoon, I’ll look at mine and see what I can find.


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lowtrac

Well-Known Member
Messages
222
Location
Georgia
There doesn’t appear to be a manual latch.

f689789c4e90199aec23ca82dc7471a0.jpg


I have an idea though.

Notice the wiring harness going to the door lock:

7812881cd85227911856fa6ebdaa125f.jpg


There’s a tan and grey wire. According to the wiring diagram, the grey wire comes from the “all doors lock ctrl” and the tan wire comes from the “all doors unlock ctrl.”

50d6e4df967d7e5d9c33e97e7a6c2fe3.jpg


That harness comes up to the center of the door and passes just under the wiper motor.

2d27b0025fca666218c09e32ec331fa5.jpg


I stripped a bit of insulation to make sure the colors match.

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Unplug the harness from the wiper control. If you turn the ignition switch on and turn the rear wiper control to 1, there is 12v on the yellow wire.

29c4595451f916368142f1a7f50e2fa4.jpg


I suspect if you strip some insulation from the tan wire going to the door lock and use a jumper to touch that yellow wire’s 12v contact to the tan wire it’ll unlock. I didn’t test it though.




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K0PIR

Well-Known Member
Messages
216
Location
Pierre, SD
I was able to roll up the window just by applying 12v to the dark blue wire in the wiring harness that goes to the window switch in the drivers door.

Getting to the rear door and that panel is almost impossible with my setup. I wonder if it can be done from somewhere else???

Yeah GM really dropped the ball on this.

Thanks Lowtrac for the photos. I'll have to see if I can get to it there is nothing else I can do.
 
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Korby7

Well-Known Member
Messages
397
Location
Utah
Thinking of putting a momentary switch hidden inside the rear door or cargo area just in case this happens to me.
 
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