Welcome to the H4O - HUMMER 4x4 Off Road.
Page 8 of 8 FirstFirst ... 45678
Results 106 to 110 of 110
  1. #106
    Bogger
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    West Valley, UT
    Posts
    1,524
    Thanks
    397
    Thanked 454 Times in 306 Posts
    Last night I cleaned up and repainted the Hunner skids for the leaf spring u-bolts and shocks, then today I was able to get the front torsion bars mostly adjusted and the last few things torqued down that needed it. I did realize though that I probably should not have added the nut on top of the front shocks, since the shocks are actually what serve as a travel limiter for droop. The way I have it now it's going to hit the upper control arm against the frame stop, but that is probably only meant to be a last resort in case the shock fails rather than for regular use. So I need to pull the front shocks back off and ditch the nut and re-install them. Though I might first lift the nose up again and see how everything lays out to determine if I really need to do this or not.

    I spent most of my Saturday working on the rear suspension.

    Before:



    After:




    The OME springs right now seem to allow a little too much droop, when I was bolting the axle back onto the springs I noticed that both the ABS sensor wires and the brake hoses from the body to the diff were getting over-stretched when I had the axle all the way down onto the springs. I had to unbolt the bracket for the brake lines at the pumpkin and unclip the ABS cables while I was getting everything together to prevent anything from being damaged. I'm hoping that now that the springs are torqued down and have some weight on them that they won't droop as much when fully unloaded. But if it's still an issue I will add an extension to the bracket for the brake lines at the pumpkin and figure out something with the ABS cables to prevent any of them from breaking.

    I'm still really irritated about the one rear Fox shock getting messed up in shipping. I was hoping to hear more from them on Friday about getting it sorted out, but no such luck. I'll have to harass them again on Monday, but I highly doubt they're going to take care of this quickly at all.

    Here's a pic of the damage:



    While it might not look like much, it's certainly a lot worse than I want to accept. It's hard to tell but both of the tears in the plastic are where gouges are. The one that easily seen is a pretty good chunk and I'm worried it might have dented the body. The second one at the top is a thinner but still fairly deep gouge. I don't get why they thought it would be a good idea to ship the two rear shocks individually in the manufacturer packing. Seems like it would have been cheaper and easier to just throw them both in a box and pay one fee.

    At any rate, I'll use the old shocks for now. For the rear I still need to wait until I change the oil in the engine and then take it for a short drive to let everything settle a bit, then park it on a level surface (which is not my driveway unfortunately) and torque down the leaf spring shackle bolts and check the torque on the u-bolts. The Hummer H3's do not have freely pivoting leaf spring shackle bolts, they do clamp the shackles onto the bushings so it does limit travel a bit. I think that will also help with my over extension issue, but we'll have to make sure. Then once everything is tightened down and adjusted it will be time to take it in for an alignment. I leave this Thursday for Colorado, so hopefully I can have everything finished up by Wednesday night, if not sooner.
    2008 H3 Alpha
    2008 Victory Red H3

    "Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - General John Stark

    N1JPA

  2. #107
    Bogger
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    West Valley, UT
    Posts
    1,524
    Thanks
    397
    Thanked 454 Times in 306 Posts
    Finally got everything buttoned up. Changed the oil, removed the nuts I added to the front shocks to lengthen them (since I discovered/remembered afterwards that the shocks act as travel limiters), then drove down to the church parking lot to have a level place to finish up everything. When I got there I torqued down the rear suspension bolts first (you have to get everything sitting level with weight on it before tightening it all down since the shackles do not freely pivot on the bolts, instead it is the flex in the rubber bushings that provides the hinge action).

    Then spent a while getting the front height correct with the torsion bars. I decided to go back to the stock height in the front because Fox apparently warns that cranking the front up with their shocks can lead to premature failure of them, plus it puts less stress on the CV axles and other suspension components. I'm more interested in longevity than gaining an inch of clearance anyway. If I can't compensate for a mere inch with better driving skills then I have no business offroading.


    The Old Man Emu springs definitely give a taller ride in the rear, but I'm assuming that with some time they'll settle in a bit despite having been scragged already, plus once I get all my regular gear back in the cargo area they should sit pretty nicely. I did purchase the Air Lift load leveler airbags, but now that I see how high it sits I might not need them. At the very least I'm going to leave them off for now and see how everything settles.

    Initial impression is that the ride is a million times better, but I still need to get an alignment and top off my tire pressure and drive it for a bit. The real test is going to be my commute tomorrow, the road I take is not the smoothest by any means, and while they have repaved a section of it, they seem to have chosen the nicest section to repave... With how busy the road is you'd think they'd have repaved it all by now, but instead they just kept cutting more sections out and (poorly) patching them back over, almost like they are just trying to make it terrible. I have been on dirt roads that are smoother.

    At any rate, I'm glad to have this pretty much all finished. I still need to put the gas tank skid back on, and I should also put my UCP back on as well since I'll be taking it up to my parents house which is at the end of a dirt road. Not a terrible road, but not the best either. Better safe than sorry.
    2008 H3 Alpha
    2008 Victory Red H3

    "Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - General John Stark

    N1JPA

  3. #108
    Bogger
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Qatar
    Posts
    1,745
    Thanks
    101
    Thanked 291 Times in 246 Posts
    How do the ome springs feel? Harsher? Same as oem? They do raise the rear 0.75" over stock and since you lowered the front the rear will feel really tall.
    I want to upgrade my rear springs as at 100K they are down 1" from stock height and now whenever I accelerate the front jumps up and the rear squats!

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
    06 H3, Birch White, Lux , Cooper AT3 35s, Borla Performance Cat-back, Bilsteins front w/ 1/2" extended stops, Hunner sleeve, Air Doc w/ K&N filter, Oem Roof lights, 55W HID Headlights and 35W Fog lights.

    09 H3 V8, LS376/480 Conversion, 3000 stall, Arctic Silver, 35s, XD Rockstar Wheels 17x8 Front 17x9 Rear, OEM Sliders, 40K External Trans Cooler, Bilstein 5160s front 5100 rear, O.D. Steering Bracket, Daystar 1" Body Lift, Borla Performance Cat-Back, custom intake pipe & K&N filter, Custom PCM tune, Pioneer DVD unit, Aurora 40" LED Light Bar, 50 W HID Headlights

  4. #109
    Bogger
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    West Valley, UT
    Posts
    1,524
    Thanks
    397
    Thanked 454 Times in 306 Posts
    So far so good, but I drove pretty gently this morning to Les Schwab for an alignment, so I can't definitively say just yet. Initial impressions are good though. I'm going on a trip to Colorado Thursday so I'll be getting a bunch of miles on them and can tell you more then.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    2008 H3 Alpha
    2008 Victory Red H3

    "Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - General John Stark

    N1JPA

  5. #110
    Bogger
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    West Valley, UT
    Posts
    1,524
    Thanks
    397
    Thanked 454 Times in 306 Posts
    So I am pretty darn proud of myself. Took the Alpha in this morning for an alignment and when I looked at the printout after they were done I was quite pleased with the before section:




    Not bad for totally eyeballing where to set the alignment cams for the upper control arms, eh? Interestingly enough it was the toe that was out of spec, and I never actually touched the steering rack.

    It drives so much better now. I don't get popping and grinding when turning anymore, and the ride is a lot smoother. The OME springs seem to be doing great, despite being slightly lifted from stock I didn't notice any degradation in ride quality. It's hard to say if they are better or the same as the stock ride, considering the springs on the Alpha were pretty worn out, and the shocks are still an unknown factor (one of them doesn't seem to be extending fully, I had to jack up the axle when hooking it back up, whereas the other side I had to compress the shock to reattach it), but in comparison to my red H3 which has fairly low mileage stock springs on it (maybe 45k or so?) and Bilstein 5100 series shocks (only a year or two old) it seems about the same or better. I'm looking forward to getting the Fox shocks on the rear and seeing how it does.

    Speaking of those, the company I bought them from finally got their claim with UPS filed and the shock should be picked up tomorrow to go back, once it has been picked up they are going to send a replacement. Hopefully they actually pack it in something and don't do the same thing to me again.

    Tomorrow I am going to put the gas tank skid back on, as well as my UCP. Here is a pic of the UCP from when I first made it for my red H3 that will now be going back onto the Alpha:



    I built it from a truck ladder rack I had originally bought to make a roof basket with, but when I discovered how heavy the steel was, I decided to use it for UCP instead. It's 1" x 1.5" x 1/8" wall tube. I doubled up the section that protects the transfer case since it hangs so low and runs the risk of a pointy rock or a stick or something poking through and puncturing the transfer case housing. I've seen it happen on others that use the OEM UCP which is built in a similar fashion but uses fewer bars, so one guy made steel plates sized to weld onto the OEM UCP under the transfer case to protect it. The transmission pan sits much higher up so it's far less likely to be punctured by something that can fit between the rails, plus with the cross tubes anything that sticks through would likely get knocked over first unless I'm being stupid and drive through a pile of downed trees.

    The UCP is pretty heavy, I can't recall what I estimated it at, but I think it's around 75 pounds or so. It's incredibly sturdy though, and has held up pretty well to me grinding over obstacles with it.
    2008 H3 Alpha
    2008 Victory Red H3

    "Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - General John Stark

    N1JPA


 

Similar Threads

  1. Canadian h3t Alpha build
    By RamRod in forum Builds
    Replies: 493
    Last Post: 03-06-2018, 01:49 PM
  2. JPaul's H3 Base build
    By JPaul in forum Builds
    Replies: 137
    Last Post: 01-09-2018, 11:58 PM
  3. Scotty's H3 Alpha Build
    By USMC_315 in forum Builds
    Replies: 67
    Last Post: 10-02-2017, 08:52 AM
  4. Abntroop's 08' H3 Alpha build
    By ABNTROOP in forum Builds
    Replies: 188
    Last Post: 07-22-2015, 03:50 AM
  5. colbykuchars H3 Alpha Build.
    By colbykuchar in forum Builds
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 07-31-2013, 07:39 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Logout