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Acer4LO's 2008 Alpha H3 Build Thread

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
If you still have the original body mount bolts is it possible to get a measurement of how tall they are?

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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
A body lift can cause all kinds of issues with anything that has to connect between the body and the frame. This can include: shift cables, wiring, ground straps, hoses, steering shaft, brake lines, cooling fans, bumpers, fuel filler pipe, clutch linkage, etc. Probably not an issue for a 1” lift but, if you are considering going taller...definitely check anything that has to bridge the gap.
The H3 is a very “tightly engineered” vehicle compared to 80s-era trucks, so there may not be the slack in these items without some customization. Most of the time...these issues won’t be obvious until you get done with the installation. Years ago I put a 3” biscuit lift on an 80s GM truck and I had to adjust the t-case, clutch, fan shroud, and throttle cable. I also made filler panels for the bumpers. The biscuits ended up being the easy part! Some months later the rag joint (on the steering shaft) failed, and damn near caused a crash.
 
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Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
A body lift can cause all kinds of issues with anything that has to connect between the body and the frame. This can include: shift cables, wiring, ground straps, hoses, steering shaft, brake lines, cooling fans, bumpers, fuel filler pipe, clutch linkage, etc. Probably not an issue for a 1” lift but, if you are considering going taller...definitely check anything that has to bridge the gap.
The H3 is a very “tightly engineered” vehicle compared to 80s-era trucks, so there may not be the slack in these items without some customization. Most of the time...these issues won’t be obvious until you get done with the installation. Years ago I put a 3” biscuit lift on an 80s GM truck and I had to adjust the t-case, clutch, fan shroud, and throttle cable. I also made filler panels for the bumpers. The biscuits ended up being the easy part! Some months later the rag joint (on the steering shaft) failed, and damn near caused a crash.

Exactly! Thats why I was against doing a custom body lift setup for the H3. I know it can be done, (I remember it was done to a yellow H3) but you are setting yourself up for even more problems. Putting the custom hockey pucks and new body mount bolts are the easy part. However now you have check to make all other parts aren't negatively affected by this change. For me checking all these things are not really worth the trouble and I am afraid that I will miss somthing important that will cause problems later down the line. I think this is why Daystar only offered a 1" body lift and not a 1.5" or 2" kit.
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
If you still have the original body mount bolts is it possible to get a measurement of how tall they are?

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5 5/8"

i-zsDwdwv-X5.jpg
 

EndeavoredH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
371
Location
Arizona
How did you go about your electric fan set up? I am trying to find a reliable setup for my H3 but havent found any thats worth the time and money. If I cant find anything ill go for keeping the clutch and adding a secondary pusher fan.
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
How did you go about your electric fan set up? I am trying to find a reliable setup for my H3 but havent found any thats worth the time and money. If I cant find anything ill go for keeping the clutch and adding a secondary pusher fan.

It actually came with it when I bought the truck. I haven't really messed with it yet, but here are a few pictures:

i-N3j8VWG-X3.jpg


i-gjKC55j-X3.jpg


i-FPDKB3d-X3.jpg


i-pQnbBD6-X3.jpg


i-vcwwbN3-X3.jpg


I have a manual switch to turn it off and on. The orginal owner orginally had it setup to automattically turn on once the truck got to half tempature, but I rewired it because sometimes it wouldn't turn on.

i-mGBvpRP-X3.jpg
 

EndeavoredH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
371
Location
Arizona
It actually came with it when I bought the truck. I haven't really messed with it yet, but here are a few pictures:

i-N3j8VWG-X3.jpg


i-gjKC55j-X3.jpg


i-FPDKB3d-X3.jpg


i-pQnbBD6-X3.jpg


i-vcwwbN3-X3.jpg


I have a manual switch to turn it off and on. The orginal owner orginally had it setup to automattically turn on once the truck got to half tempature, but I rewired it because sometimes it wouldn't turn on.

i-mGBvpRP-X3.jpg

Is it just me or is that a pretty small fan? Whenever I get to it I was thinking about using the Ford Taurus fan or keeping the mechanical clutch and adding a pusher fan. Arizona heat makes decisions like this challenging lol. Alas another day another project.

Meant to reply on the seat covers but forgot, thank you for that information btw.
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
Quick update about the daystar body lift. Working out great, but it looks like I will need to modify my rocky road sliders to fit closer to the body like others have done.

i-QrkNz98-X5.jpg
 
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Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
Fixing Rubbing Problems To Fit The 38in Tires


So in order to get these bigger tires to fit, there was a number of considerations that I need to take into account and test to make sure these tires do not rub, not matter what situation I am in. Here they are listed


Front (IFS):

1.) Upwards Travel of Tire
While the tire is completely fine and does not rub against anything when the wheels are straight, the tires can travel further up into the wheel well in a number of instances. Please note that I have the Rancho 4in Lift kit and the drop brackets for the bumpstops end up pushing the OEM bumpstops against the lower A-Arm already. This works in my favor for the moment since it will not allow the tires to travel that far into the wheel well. That being said, even with this limited upwards travel, the tires will still find other ways to get close to the body. Take for example braking quickly. In this instance the nose of the truck is being pushed down as the truck de-accelerates as with any vehicle. In order to get a baseline to see how far the tires would get closer to the body, I lifted up the truck with my forklift. By lifting up the opposite rear wheel, I was able to max out the suspension and push one of the front wheels as close to the body as I could. I measured from the top of the tire to the fender lip and compared this number to when the truck is sitting normally. I found out that the tires will move 2.25 inches closer to the body. Finding this info out was some what of a relief and basically told me that I would not have to do any crazy trimming which was good to know as I proceeded.

2.) Turning The Steering Wheel All The Way
One big problem that I was having is the 38 inch tires were rubbing against the wheel well when I went to turn the tires. I was only able to turn the steering wheel about 1 rotation before I started hearing bad rubbing noises. For some reason it was even worse when I did the same thing in reverse and was only able to turn the truck 3/4 of a rotation. Now the obvious answer would be to just add more lift, but the problem was I already lifted the truck as much as I can. I got the Rancho 4in lift, daystar body lift, 2” T bar crank, and extended rear shackles. A SOA was out of the question for the moment since I still need to work on my fab skills and put some money aside for new shocks. So the answer hear was to do some subtle trimming, similar to NCH3’s build.

3.) Turning The Steering Wheel While At Max Articulation
This is similar to #2. I had to make sure that the tires would not rub when the front tires were pushed into the wheel well while at the steering wheel was turned all the way in one direction.

Rear (Solid Axle):

1.) Upwards Travel of Tire At Make Articulation
Similar to the front except with a solid axle. For this test I wanted to make the tire would not rub against the wheel well while one tire being pushed up into the wheel well while the other tire is drooping down all the way.


Fixing Rear Rubbing Problems




Rear Flex Test: Without Any Trimming Yet

i-cPhFXsg-X5.jpg


Problem: Rear Quarter Panel Rubs Against Tire

i-Pw5r5Lk-X5.jpg


Rear Quarter Panel Removed For Trimming

i-xwWsqxS-X5.jpg


Flex Test Without Rear Quarter Panel To See How Much To Trim

i-6LnxSHJ-X5.jpg


i-wPmcrfb-X5.jpg



Rear Quarter Panels Trimmed and Put Back On

i-nqQtsR4-X5.jpg


i-NtTq5Gj-X5.jpg

 
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Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
Fixing Front Rubbing Problems


Front Steering Test: Tire is Rubbing

i-GN2Q5hC-X5.jpg


i-9S3dvVC-X5.jpg


Fender Trimmed, Metal Cut and Bent (Wheel Well Removed In This Shot)

i-j5mxqzj-X5.jpg


Close Up of Trimming

i-qvzZ3Fp-X5.jpg



Wider Shots of Fender Trim. Does Not Stick Out That Bad!

i-LpktcPw-X5.jpg




i-QVXwkZq-X5.jpg
 
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Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
Final Testing

Flex Test With Wheels Fully Turned In One Direction

i-zZZ6GZT-X5.jpg


i-rMPJ873-X5.jpg


i-CdBsXfF-X5.jpg


Tire Just Clears! Very Close, But it Fits!

i-M8NkHFz-X5.jpg


Shot From Ground Looking Up. Tire Does Not Rub. Looks Better In Person.

i-rsxVPJK-X5.jpg


Rear Tires Rub A Little At Max Flex. Will be resolved when I do a SOA. Will work 99% of the time though.

i-5RR5fVM-X5.jpg


Done With Rubbing Problems, Not Street Ready Yet.

Well now that I am done with the rubbing problems I still have to a few more things: flash the PCM, and change the transmission shift points. I will be doing that sometime soon, but as of right now I am working on restoring the floor of the truck. I have taken all the seats out and removed the carpet.

Reminder: This is an experimental set up and has not been tested yet. Try at your own risk. I cannot recommend you do this until I can confirm this works and get some trail time with this rig.

 
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RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Trimming looks great!
Have you tried to test for rub while at lower tire pressures? Might still have some trimming to do... maybe not

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Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
Trimming looks great!
Have you tried to test for rub while at lower tire pressures? Might still have some trimming to do... maybe not

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Nope it works amazing. I air down to 5 PSI and don't have any rubbing issues what so ever!
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Front Quick Disco Sway Bar Links

Installed the JKS 2001 Front Disconnect Sway Bar Links. Super easy to install. Simple as lining up the new ones to the old ones

(Cherokee XJ & Comanche MJ, 1984-2001, Quicker Disconnect, Fits 4.0"-6.0" Lift)
http://jksmfg.com/i-13306724-cherok...001-quicker-disconnect-fits-4-0-6-0-lift.html

I needed to buy these extra parts for it to work:

[2x] Offset Polyurethane Spacer (M03212-BK-01)
[2x] 1/2" -20 Nylock Nut (37130)
[2x] Stainless Steel Post (A1046)
[6x] Click Pin (03005)


View attachment 23113

View attachment 23117

View attachment 23118

View attachment 23114

View attachment 23115

Had to grease them up!

View attachment 23116

Done

View attachment 23119

View attachment 23120

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
✅ Links About JKS Front Discos: ✅
Background Info: http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?1587-Sway-bar-disconnects
Which Model?: http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?12878-JKS-Front-Discos&highlight=discos
Holding Up The Swaybar: http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...8-Anti-Sway-Disconnect-front&highlight=discos
General Info: http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?13123-Shocks-and-links&highlight=discos
Buy Now For 4in Lifted Rancho H3s: http://jksmfg.com/i-13306724-cherok...001-quicker-disconnect-fits-4-0-6-0-lift.html

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks again for this info, just placed a parts order based on this post! (some parts are back ordered so it might take a while)
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
Acer, any updates recently? Has been a year since you've updated us!

Oh jeez you're right! I really should update this sometime soon. Of course I have done some upgrades and wheeling trips since last year! I am still really active with all things H3 related, I just haven't posted on here. Lately, when I have free time to work on H3 stuff, I have been making videos for the YouTube channel. Sometimes these tutorial videos that I do take 100+ hours to make which is why I only come out with them every few months lol. One of the reasons why some of the videos take so long is I try to explain everything from a newbie perspective and include much information as possible. In the future, I definitely want to do some videos on my rig and focus on specific modifications that I have done that I think others would be interested in.
 

DFW Spartan

Well-Known Member
Messages
125
Location
Dallas, TX
Front Quick Disco Sway Bar Links

Installed the JKS 2001 Front Disconnect Sway Bar Links. Super easy to install. Simple as lining up the new ones to the old ones

(Cherokee XJ & Comanche MJ, 1984-2001, Quicker Disconnect, Fits 4.0"-6.0" Lift)
http://jksmfg.com/i-13306724-cherok...001-quicker-disconnect-fits-4-0-6-0-lift.html

I needed to buy these extra parts for it to work:

[2x] Offset Polyurethane Spacer (M03212-BK-01)
[2x] 1/2" -20 Nylock Nut (37130)
[2x] Stainless Steel Post (A1046)
[6x] Click Pin (03005)

Quick question on the JKS Front Quick Disco Sway Bar Links. Wouldn't the purching the JKS 2034 give you the same result as purchasing the JKS 2001, and then buying the above extra parts to make them work? Am planning on buying the JKS 2034, and want to make sure I'm not overlooking anything obvious. Thanks in advance.

https://jksmfg.com/i-13306776-quicker-disconnect-end-links-jeep-wrangler-jk-fits-2-5-6-0-lift.html


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