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What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

scoreh3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,024
Location
SoCal
Thanks ... all 3 of mine are out now and the window switch lights are now out too. Going out one by one wasn’t bad, but not it’s darker.
 

svxr8dr

Well-Known Member
Messages
197
Location
SW WA ST
Added 4 U-Steps to the oem rock sliders and a 50in light bar to the Gobi stealth rack
IMG_0285.jpg
 

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,314
Location
United States
Stopped by HQ to see if I could get a refund. Actually, that's not true. As much as I complained about the little stuff (and the big stuff) early on, I've got to the point I can't imagine getting rid of it. Given how regularly I use it both on road and off, it's honestly been a really good truck.



8a20e61abd6a8c1fffd063086f4f0166.jpg


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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,400
Location
Way up north, UT
First time I've seen H3 specific molle panels like that (noticed they also have ones for the rear windows). Their site is kind of garbage (I do web hosting so bad sites especially irk me), but their products look nice. How deep is it when folded up?
 

svxr8dr

Well-Known Member
Messages
197
Location
SW WA ST
Its about 1.75 inches deep IIRC. Enough that my install was delayed as I had to modify the storage compartment we built in the rear of the H3. Alan Beacom is the guy at MPS and he will put whatever logo you would like on the folder. I have the rear window panels as well and I am very happy with the product and how easy Alan has been to communicate with.MPS1.JPGMPS2.JPG
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,400
Location
Way up north, UT
Its about 1.75 inches deep IIRC. Enough that my install was delayed as I had to modify the storage compartment we built in the rear of the H3. Alan Beacom is the guy at MPS and he will put whatever logo you would like on the folder. I have the rear window panels as well and I am very happy with the product and how easy Alan has been to communicate with.

I think my fridge just barely fits as it is, doesn't seem like I'd have almost 2" of room for that, but it sure looks nice. How do the window panels mount? Double sided tape?


Edit: Yep, just went and checked and my ARB 43qt (the older metal body one made by Engel) literally just barely fits. There is maybe a quarter inch of clearance, and that's with taking off the handle on that end.
 
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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,400
Location
Way up north, UT
Do I need to order a new nut or anything else (assuming nothing else is broken)?


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Technically yes, though many, including myself, have reused old ones OK. But this last time around I did order new ones just to be sure. They are cheap enough ($10 or so I think off Amazon for the Dorman's) that it's worth the extra insurance.
 

Bowser-II

Well-Known Member
Messages
268
Location
Hagerstown, Maryland
Technically yes, though many, including myself, have reused old ones OK. But this last time around I did order new ones just to be sure. They are cheap enough ($10 or so I think off Amazon for the Dorman's) that it's worth the extra insurance.

Alright, that’s good to know, thank you!


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svxr8dr

Well-Known Member
Messages
197
Location
SW WA ST
I think my fridge just barely fits as it is, doesn't seem like I'd have almost 2" of room for that, but it sure looks nice. How do the window panels mount? Double sided tape?


Edit: Yep, just went and checked and my ARB 43qt (the older metal body one made by Engel) literally just barely fits. There is maybe a quarter inch of clearance, and that's with taking off the handle on that end.

Alan sends spacers and self tapping screws. I didnt take a pic of mine, but I borrowed this one from Al DeOrleans so the premise is the same though the spacers from MPS are not threaded. Regardless the plastic going to need to be removed. The steel spacers that will go between the brackets and the steel on your tailgate. You'll mark the mounting holes on the plastic tailgate cover then drill through to the steel with a 1/8" bit. Once you've done that remove you plastic panel to get to the steel. Drill out the plastic with a 9/16" or 5/8" bit to allow for the spacers to go through. Re-mount the plastic and then mount the panel. Of course based on your space descriptions I'm not sure it's doable.
mount.JPG
 
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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
Reuse the half-shaft nut. Locktite it and you should be fine. If still concerned, grab a hammer & punch and peen it. Works best if you peen the outer shoulder in three places, 120 degrees apart. Don’t overdue it...it doesn’t take much.
 

Bowser-II

Well-Known Member
Messages
268
Location
Hagerstown, Maryland
This was a view outside the truck about 30 seconds before the shaft snapped, I was about two feet from the top.

8b8a0cdc7cdc03076bbbec10280583e3.jpg


Short hill climb on the north track at Rausch Creek. In the spring I had to winch up with the ‘bologna’ tires as my West Virginia buddy called ‘em.

8944e2c816f27e5121ec812e681106e0.jpg


The ruts were probably another two inches deeper after the rains this summer and even the lifted Rubicon on 37” toyo’s was spinning and sliding up the hill.






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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
Yeah...sounds like your ego took over. Been there. “I’m so close to the top!” It’s sometimes hard to admit defeat and get out the tow strap. As you found out, the H3 will tell you loud & clear, when you push it too far. No big deal. If you want to play...you’ll have to pay.

Ive never rebuilt a half shaft. Mostly because we have a great place here locally that does them for the entire US...Indy Rack & Axle. They normally just exchange them but, if you press the issue they will rebuild them while you wait.

I think a few H4O people have rebuilt their own. It ain’t rocket science. I prefer to throw em in the trash and weld on a 3-link.
 

Bowser-II

Well-Known Member
Messages
268
Location
Hagerstown, Maryland
Oh it was ego, hope (new tires) and some egging from the Jeepers. I used the winch on it over the summer. Oh well.


I may try to rebuild just for the experience of it.


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humvee

Well-Known Member
Messages
507
Location
Doha, Qatar
Put Seafoam in the crankcase, vacuum & fuel tank.
Fuel economy went from an average of 9 mpg - 12 mpg

Something was terribly wrong with my motor. Put on a spectacular smoke show


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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,580
Location
Bellflower, CA
Bumper upgrade.

Got these bad boys in the other day. Now I just need a weekend free to install them. I do plan on installing the other rear D ring. Not sure yet if I'm going to LineX then or not. Thanks THORparts.

20181028_163855 (1280x622).jpg
 

Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
LineX it, saves all the wear and tear and rust from rock chips later. Also it doesn't ever really need washing just hit it with the hose and everything falls off. Don't forget to cut out for lights first, if your using them. Bumper, drings, vents, brush guard, grille and all 4 fenders ran right around 1k for me locally. I will probably have the hood and roof done in the spring.



Got these bad boys in the other day. Now I just need a weekend free to install them. I do plan on installing the other rear D ring. Not sure yet if I'm going to LineX then or not. Thanks THORparts.

View attachment 24130
 
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