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  1. #16
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    How much for the SAS kit if I already have an axle?

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  2. #17
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    Cowboy....

    I have a customer that is dropping his H3 off at my shop for a full SAS/SOA conversion later this summer. I’m collecting his parts and assembling his Dana 44 right now. So,while I was ordering and fabbing the parts for his swap...I decided to also order some parts for (2) additional base kits. I’m just now assembling them, and getting prices put together. It will be a “stripped down DIY” kit...basically all the stuff you need to get your truck sitting on the SAS suspension. Then all the steering, shocks, and little pieces will be up to you, and you will need to source your own axle. This base kit would include the following:

    • Frame plates
    • Frame 3-link brackets
    • Frame coil buckets
    • Axle 3-link brackets (combo brackets for springs, shocks, & links)
    • Axle upper link tower (drivers-side)
    • Axle Track-bar bracket
    • Link bars

    Before you can drop your H3 down off the jack stands, you will need a track bar, and a track bar mount for the frame. You will also need coil springs. Once those are installed, the truck will support itself and you can finish adding all the other items. I am intentionally leaving the steering system out, as well as the shocks, bump stops, brake lines, driveshafts, etc....as these items will vary depending on your ride height and final stance. I can provide additional items or info to finish off the install. As soon as I get these kits assembled, I’ll post some photos and a price.

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  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4speedfunk View Post
    Cowboy....

    I have a customer that is dropping his H3 off at my shop for a full SAS/SOA conversion later this summer. I’m collecting his parts and assembling his Dana 44 right now. So,while I was ordering and fabbing the parts for his swap...I decided to also order some parts for (2) additional base kits. I’m just now assembling them, and getting prices put together. It will be a “stripped down DIY” kit...basically all the stuff you need to get your truck sitting on the SAS suspension. Then all the steering, shocks, and little pieces will be up to you, and you will need to source your own axle. This base kit would include the following:

    • Frame plates
    • Frame 3-link brackets
    • Frame coil buckets
    • Axle 3-link brackets (combo brackets for springs, shocks, & links)
    • Axle upper link tower (drivers-side)
    • Axle Track-bar bracket
    • Link bars

    Before you can drop your H3 down off the jack stands, you will need a track bar, and a track bar mount for the frame. You will also need coil springs. Once those are installed, the truck will support itself and you can finish adding all the other items. I am intentionally leaving the steering system out, as well as the shocks, bump stops, brake lines, driveshafts, etc....as these items will vary depending on your ride height and final stance. I can provide additional items or info to finish off the install. As soon as I get these kits assembled, I’ll post some photos and a price.
    That would be great. Shipping cost would also be a lot cheaper.


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  5. #19
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    True. I get asked daily “what does an SAS cost?” It’s nearly impossible to put a number on it because there are so many variables that effect price. A DIY swap can be as cheap as $3k...or a turnkey swap can be as much as $14k. I think a “base” kit is the way to go. It will get you the minimum stuff you need, and leave the details and axle build up to you. And, like you say...I’m not shipping 600 lbs of parts across the country.

  6. #20
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    I am looking to start gathering parts for a swap next year. As far as sourcing an axle, if I were to buy a new builder axle what are you minimum recommendations for axle components? What dimensions WMS to WMS and tube length L & R side? Please let me know when you get the kits together and if you need a deposit.
    2006 H3 Adventure & modified Rancho with SOA

  7. #21
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    Preferably, you want a GM Dana 44 from 73-80. You can also use a Corp 10-bolt from 79-91. Every 1/2-ton or 3/4-ton GMC or Chevy 4WD truck from 73 to 91 came with either of these axles. So they are very cheap and easy to find.

    Both of these axles are nearly identical, the main difference being the center casting and inner shafts. They are the same width from 1973 to 1991, and they are all passenger-side drop. Both were available in either 6-lug or 8-lug versions (1/2-ton or 3/4-ton). The center housing is the same width regardless of the year or tonnage. The track width for 6-lug axles is 67.5" The track width for 8-lug axles is 69.5". This is difference in track width is entirely in the hubs themselves, and the hubs can easily be swapped to add or subtract 2" in width. The 67.5" width fits the H3 perfectly, and these 6-lugs versions share the same wheel bolt pattern as the H3. Don't sweat it if you have an 8-lug axle. Simply swap the hubs and you're good to go.

    The Dana 44 diff has the advantage of being used on everything (Ford, GM, Jeep, IH, blah blah)...so diff parts are easier to find. The 76-later GM D44s have thicker walls on the axle tubes. The 3/4-ton versions have stronger axle shafts. Some 70s GM trucks came with a flat-top knuckle on the passenger-side...something you'll need for crossover steering. The D44's center casting is slightly narrower than the 10b which gives you a tad more room for brackets and such.

    The Corp 10b only came in GM trucks, so parts can only be robbed from GM trucks. Trust me...there are millions of them out there. Its not hard to build one but, the only guys messing with 10b axles are full-size chevy wheelers. So you loose out on all the millions of Jeep & Ford guys selling used parts. The early 28-spline versions are weak...try to find a 30-spline (1989-up) model. The 10b was never offered with flat-top knuckles, but the Dana 44 ones bolt right up. In fact...all the outer parts interchange between the D44 and the 10b.

    IMO...there is no strength difference between the D44 and the 10b. However, there is five times the market for the Dana axle...something that really pays off if you are shopping on craigslist or ebay. Used D44 parts are everywhere.

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  9. #22
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    If I do go the builder route what are the dimensions for tube length and pinion location? I may be able to get a deal on a Currie Rock Jock from friend.

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    2006 H3 Adventure & modified Rancho with SOA

  10. #23
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    SAS on a skid....

    Build the housing to stock 73-91 GM spec. That way you can use off-the-shelf shafts. I’ve built a few high pinion, passenger drop, D44s by re-tubing Ford pumpkins...same basic idea as building a Currie but without the price tag.

    Edit: I also add some more caster angle when I weld the inner-C’s to the tubes.

    Edit II: Currie might have GM rock jocks already made and sitting on a shelf. Same axle dimensions for a 25 year run. Surely you’re not the first to buy one.
    Last edited by 4speedfunk; 05-17-2018 at 07:21 PM.

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  12. #24
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    Does your brake conversion work on the old style knuckles?
    2006 H3 Adventure & modified Rancho with SOA

  13. #25
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    Old style?

  14. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4speedfunk View Post
    Old style?
    73-91.
    2006 H3 Adventure & modified Rancho with SOA

  15. #27
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    SAS on a skid....

    GM spindles & hubs come in two styles. But the 73-91 GM knuckles only come in one style. They fit on pretty much any ball-joint D44 (I use the GM outers on Ford & Jeep Danas, too). You’ll need flat top knuckles to run a crossover drag-link...casting #C36519 & #C36520. Here’s a pic of the pass side flat-top next to a round top knuckle...

    Also, either style GM spindle & hub will bolt up to any GM knuckle. But each style spindle needs the correct hub. (It’s really not as confusing as it sounds). So you can run either small or large bearing spindles & hubs. And the THORparts hubs are available in either style. The smalls are somewhat harder to find but not “rare”.
    Lastly, all of this stuff interchanges with the Corp 10-bolt too. However they never came with flat-tops. So you will need to run D44 flat-tops on your 10b axle to use cross-over steering.
    Last edited by 4speedfunk; 05-19-2018 at 07:19 AM.

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  17. #28
    Hamster that pokes Bears
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    Not trying to be an as... but WHYYYY you still pushing D44? It’s time to move into 21th century and start building good axel (D60). There is a reason D44 is cheap and even Chris had to admit this. D60 is not much more expensive but so much stronger. Even small 37” tire is pushing it on D44.
    2009 H3t (Hamster Jr.)build - http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/foru...009-H3t)-build
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    2008 F350 (Behimot) build - http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?2208-Project-quot-Behemoth-quot
    1995 YJ locked and loaded
    2017 JK "Spicy chicken" + personal touches.

  18. #29
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    Maybe because it works! Been to Rausch Creek, Badlands, Drummond Islsnd, and Windrock and have never had a problem! Have thousands of miles on mine and only changed a few dollars of wheel bearings.

  19. #30
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    For me personally the hi pinion Dana 44 was badass. The ford HP44 has lasted well on 40s the key is being high pinion. I wheeled the hell out of it with success...

    The low pinion 44 gets you in the SAS game. From there you can figure out how hard you wanna push it. Not everyone needs a D60....some people need the strength of a D44....I needed the strength of a D70
    Squeaky3: 06 H3 ALPHA SAS Hi pinion Dana 44 front/Eaton HO72 rear 5.13 gears, custom crossmember for long arms, lockers, 4:1 T-case, v8 swap, gobi, Smittbilt 12k Custom bumpers....do it all vehicle

    "H3 front axles are like drunk cheerleaders....just use em until they get mouthy...then toss em and get another." -anonymous


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