Steering issues.... Serious issues

So this is starting to happen more and more, it's extremely hard to diagnose because it's nearly impossible to replicate the issue.

The issue:
The steering locks up partway through a turn at low speed turn (on dry pavement).

If I turn to the opposite direction and back the issue is gone for a little while.

Recently I installed the following:
-Remanufactured steering rack (suspect #1)
-New inner tie Rod
-New outer tie Rod
-New power steering pump
-Rebuilt half shaft (suspect #2)

I am too worried about driving until I get this sorted out as its scary as F^*:k when it locks up and I have been lucky that nothing has happened the 4 times it's locked up.

My question is how can I isolate the steering rack to check if it's the culprit?

If I removed the half shaft should I just confirm that it's rotating like normal with no extra play?

Could the x-fer case be a part of the issue?

Thanks guys!



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Mine did the exact same thing while wheeling in Moab...it was the steering pump. Since replacing the pump, the iss E went away and hasn't returned.

What steering rack mount are you running?

I have the outfitter designs rack mount.


The strange part is that this has happened both before and after the new power steering pump was replaced...


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Maybe the rack internals arent so good and its jamming on itself?

Is it locking up at the same spot when turning, what I mean is does it turn farther sometimes before locking or does it seem to happen at the same amount of rotation. That rack could have something inside that falls into the teeth of the gears of the rack which binds up, not letting you turn. Or if it is the same spot it could be a damaged tooth that gets hung up every once in a while.

If the rack and the half shaft are you two culprits, perhaps you could take the half shaft out and see if it continues. If it happens again then I would lean toward the rack.

IMO I would probably blame the rack, but thats just me thinking over the internet.

Probably a bad rack. BTW...a new rack already comes with 16mm inner & outer tie-rods, so there isn't any need to swap the rod ends separately. Just open the box and bolt it on. I've done many of these and most of the time you don't even need to adjust the rod ends...(maybe a turn or two depending on your ride height). They usually run around $190-$300.

You might also check the area around the steering shaft. I've heard several similar stories that were caused by "stuff" interfering with the shaft...like the pinch bolt not being fully threaded into the clamp, or somebody leaving a wrench in there. I've also heard of wiring getting wrapped around the shaft and causing it to stop. Since it did the same thing before and after the pump swap...I doubt if the pump was the issue. Half-shafts can bind but, they usually have more effect on the forward motion of the vehicle, and not the turning.

You can isolate the rack by popping both outer tie-rods out of the knuckles. This will allow you to cycle the steering back & forth without it being attached to the suspension. If you do this...be careful to not over-crank the steering, as I'm not sure if there are internal stops inside the rack. Normally the knuckles will stop the travel, and if you have them disconnected...you run the risk of doing some damage to the column or rack, if you turn it past the stock amount. 1-1/2 turns each way from center should reveal any binding.

Ranchos & t-bar cranks are hard on the rack. They increase the angle of force being applied to the piston inside the rack, and this can cause premature wear. The Rancho has dropped tie-rod mounts cast into the knuckles, and this helps keep the angle flatter. So unless you are over-cranked on the torsion bars...you should be okay.

So it locks up at the same steering angle, but in either direction....

I am going to see how tight the steering brace was bolted on... a member on here pointed out that this has caused issues in the past.

I am flying out for the next four days straight after work today... so I guess this can nag at me until Monday....

I think I was sold a faulty re-manugactured rack though

Oh yeah....forgot you were running an aftermarket clamp. That could very well be the problem!

The stock clamp is designed so it actually bottoms out...you can't over tighten it. It's pretty clear that GM knew this could be an issue, and that's why it has the stop built into it. After all, the rack is just a thin sheet metal tube. The stock clamp often allows the rack to slip back & forth (which is why we upgrade in the first place). But the aftermarket clamps can be tightened to the point of crushing the rack cylinder. Try loosening the clamp to see if the bind goes away. If it does...put a shim in the clamp, so it bottoms out before it deforms the cylinder. If the clamp has really been torqued hard...it may have permanently deformed the cylinder, in which case...the tight spot will remain and the rack is toast.

Driving around with a pinched rack tube will no doubt wear on the rack. Every time you cycle the wheel thru the tight spot...you're grinding material off the tube ID and the piston OD. It won't take long before fluid leaks past the piston. Let us know what you find out by loosening the clamp...hopefully you caught it in time.

4speedfunk said:

Oh yeah....forgot you were running an aftermarket clamp. That could very well be the problem!
...the aftermarket clamps can be tightened to the point of crushing the rack cylinder.

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Not all aftermarket clamps are designed the same. The PCF Scorpworks clamp, like the OEM clamp, was designed to take this issue into account and can't be overtightened and crush the tube. I have observed on this and other forums that this is an issue with other aftermarket clamps but there have been no similar reported issues with the Scorpworks clamp.

4speedfunk said:

Oh yeah....forgot you were running an aftermarket clamp. That could very well be the problem!

The stock clamp is designed so it actually bottoms out...you can't over tighten it. It's pretty clear that GM knew this could be an issue, and that's why it has the stop built into it. After all, the rack is just a thin sheet metal tube. The stock clamp often allows the rack to slip back & forth (which is why we upgrade in the first place). But the aftermarket clamps can be tightened to the point of crushing the rack cylinder. Try loosening the clamp to see if the bind goes away. If it does...put a shim in the clamp, so it bottoms out before it deforms the cylinder. If the clamp has really been torqued hard...it may have permanently deformed the cylinder, in which case...the tight spot will remain and the rack is toast.

Driving around with a pinched rack tube will no doubt wear on the rack. Every time you cycle the wheel thru the tight spot...you're grinding material off the tube ID and the piston OD. It won't take long before fluid leaks past the piston. Let us know what you find out by loosening the clamp...hopefully you caught it in time.

Click to expand...

Or installer can follow instructions...it's crazy out of the hundreds and hundreds of kits we have sold at this point there have been only three people who have had an issue. Each of them failed to follow instructions and just cranked away. The design is made to have a slight gap between the two halves (1/8" V.1 and 1/16" V.2) and with the proper preload it keeps the perfect amount of tension on the rack. Unfortunately sometimes people pull a part out of the box excited to install and just crank away without remembering the instructions...

I run a Nissan steering box on my H3 but, I've personally installed several O.D. steering kits, (using the instructions) and I've never had any issues. FWIW...Its an excellent kit, and does exactly what its supposed to.

All of the aftermarket kits are better than the POS OEM rack clamp...and it is amazing how many people don't read the instructions that come with any new product.

I didnt have an issue either. Btw, the accident my bro had in my H3 last year, both of the Alpha tie rods turned into "J" shapped rods. The rack wasn't damaged one bit and is still funtioning perfectly a year (and 30K miles) with over a dozen wheeling trips later!

Dude that was one crazy ass accident. Awesome video for those that haven't seen it.

atvspeed4 said:

Or installer can follow instructions...it's crazy out of the hundreds and hundreds of kits we have sold at this point there have been only three people who have had an issue. Each of them failed to follow instructions and just cranked away. The design is made to have a slight gap between the two halves (1/8" V.1 and 1/16" V.2) and with the proper preload it keeps the perfect amount of tension on the rack. Unfortunately sometimes people pull a part out of the box excited to install and just crank away without remembering the instructions...

Click to expand...

I provided the shop with install instructions, but considering I also provided them with instructions for the Rancho lift kit and had to take it back for them to fix three things installed wrong.... I won't be surprised now to see that the clamp was over torqued....

To be honest I sure hope that's the issue, because they will be replacing the rack not me haha


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RamRod said:

I provided the shop with install instructions, but considering I also provided them with instructions for the Rancho lift kit and had to take it back for them to fix three things installed wrong.... I won't be surprised now to see that the clamp was over torqued....

To be honest I sure hope that's the issue, because they will be replacing the rack not me haha


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Click to expand...

Let me know if we can be of any help. If you run into any trouble and the shop would like to speak to us directly send us an email and I will call.

That's great man! Thanks!

The shop manager is a reasonable guy and I think if that's the issue he will own up to it.

They have told me in the past that this is by far the nicest truck they ever get to work on and the staff fight over who gets to work on it lol

So I managed to finally crawl under the truck to check into what could be causing these issues... I found a few things I didn't like.

#1 - The top bolt on the steering clamp was only finger tight, no red lock tight like the instructions called for, not torqued down to 76ft/lbs like the instructions called for.

#2 - It looks like there is a bolt that is not on tight or not seated correctly; or is this how this bolt should be:



#3 - They installed the aft bars wrong and without torquing the bolts down, one nut came completely off and the bar was only being held on with a bolt that was half out

I think the issue has been caused by improper installation of the steering clamp and that the steering rack needs replacing. I will be calling the shop tomorrow and demand that they replace the whole unit and install it as per the instructions

Reloader had an issue with those two driver's side bolts not staying tight after they were reused. Those might be bolts that are single use, and need to be replaced to hold their torque value. He ended up replacing the bolts.