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H3 6.0L LS Swap

tmhb16

Member
Messages
18
Location
alabama
Before you get too far with your transmission you need to look at a few things. There are some things on the H3 4L60e that are specific. The pan is notched to clear the front driveshaft. The driveshaft will not clear with a standard pan. In order to fit the clearanced pan, the 1-2 accumulator is offset and I think I also remember the valve body is unique as well. You will have to swap these parts into your 09 trans to get it to work.

Thanks for the info. I was not aware that the H3 trans was that unique. I won't be picking up the V8 trans until next week so I'll have to wait until then to pull it apart and figure out the differences.
 

tmhb16

Member
Messages
18
Location
alabama
Any updates on your swap and wiring?

Yes lots of new updates. I have finally got the transmission and transfer case reinstalled. The transmission is a hybrid of the original H3 trans and the 09 Silverado trans that I purchased from a salvage yard. I couldn't use the silverado trans as is because of the pan interference with the driveshaft as CaseyS pointed out. I also still needed an input speed sensor to make the computer that I will be using happy. I ended up swapping the pump, input drum/shaft, speed sensor, torque converter, and bellhousing from the Silverado trans into the H3 trans. My local transmission guy swapped over the parts and installed a corvette 1-2 shift servo for only $50 which was well worth me not possibly screwing something up by doing it myself.

I added the wiring for the input speed senor by removing the wires and pins from the Silverado trans internal wiring harness and and adding them to the H3 trans. There are two pins that have to be added to the large external plug. Here's what it looks like before
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The internal part of the plug already had provisions to add the additional pins so that part was pretty simple. 04colyZQ8 provided me with a diagram that showed the correct location to add the pins.
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Two small holes had to be drilled in the top part of the plug so the pins could protrude through. I had to be very careful to drill them in just the right location and everything went back together perfectly, (My phone died so I didnt get any pics of this step) The third wire was a +12V supply to the sensor and I soldered that to the +12V wire in the H3 trans harness. Here's a pic of the added sensor (top right corner).
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Since my H3 is a 06 model it came with the plastic shift fork in the transfer case. I was having some issues with it not wanting to lock in 4x4 so I decided to go ahead and swap to a metal shift fork while I had the t-case out. The swap was easier than I thought and only took about 30 mins from start to finsh since I already had the case out. Here's some pics of the badly worn fork
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For the fuel lines I used Dorman nylon lines and connectors. I purchased all the needed lines and connectors from rock auto for under $40. Looks stock since GM uses nylon lines on these engines

The biggest issue and hold up so far has been with the programing of the PCM. GM suddenly and unexpectedly changed the capabilities of the programming software (04colyZQ8 can probably elaborate on this part). The good news is that everything should be figured out now and the programing will be finished in the next few days if everything goes to plan.
 

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tmhb16

Member
Messages
18
Location
alabama
Does anyone have a good picture of the routing of the A/C lines to the condenser on an Alpha? I have the lines but wasn't quite sure how they are routed from the factory
 

tmhb16

Member
Messages
18
Location
alabama
An engine oil cooler? I did install a large trans cooler to take some load off of the radiator. I've heard that an oil cooler doesn't significantly lower coolant temps but if it does that sound like an easy solution
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,400
Location
Way up north, UT
An engine oil cooler? I did install a large trans cooler to take some load off of the radiator. I've heard that an oil cooler doesn't significantly lower coolant temps but if it does that sound like an easy solution
I don't see why it wouldn't help, the engine oil also acts like a coolant, and it cools parts of the engine the coolant doesn't even touch. That and you want to keep the temperature of the oil below the breakdown point to promote longer oil life and better lubrication. Adding additional cooling of the oil (more than it gets from the oil pan, which isn't much at all) will help lower the temperature of the engine particularly when it's under stress. Yeah it might not drop the engine coolant temps by 20 degrees, but it'll be worth it anyway.

I really need to get an external transmission cooler in before next summer, after hooking up the Ultragauge MX I can see just how often the temps go higher than I'd like, particularly when it's 100+ out. An oil cooler will probably be added at the same time, as well as an oil temperature gauge.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
An engine oil cooler? I did install a large trans cooler to take some load off of the radiator. I've heard that an oil cooler doesn't significantly lower coolant temps but if it does that sound like an easy solution
Whatever you do please keep us posted. Im having problems keeping my truck coolant levels in an acceptable range (easily runs 220* with a/c at 115*-120*).
I am running dual row griffin rad with this setup + a dedicated trans cooler upfront.
 

tmhb16

Member
Messages
18
Location
alabama
Whatever you do please keep us posted. Im having problems keeping my truck coolant levels in an acceptable range (easily runs 220* with a/c at 115*-120*).
I am running dual row griffin rad with this setup + a dedicated trans cooler upfront.

Good to to know the Griffin doesn't have enough cooling capacity. I'm going to try to find the largest 3 or 4 row aluminum universal radiator that will fit and fabricate some mounting brackets. Probably will have to ditch the mechanical fan and go electric for clearance reasons
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
I just replaced my radiator with the CRS (Chinese) radiator (all aluminum). I'm running cooler then before.... $155 delivered and it works. Be sure to tighten the cooler lines - it took more then I thought they should have needed, but it works.
94005922.jpg

a couple things as well, the stock radiator doesn't use rubber bumpers under the pins (what holds the radiator in place). I used some electrical rubber grommets otherwise your lower hose will rub on the sway bar.... also, it's not perfect - the shroud needs a bit of opening up the hooks to work... (upper part).

and it's $145 here
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/oem-259...r&adid=29963&gclid=CKa1zLP9jc8CFQqGfgodK0gAig
 
Last edited:

Ghostbuster

Well-Known Member
Messages
861
Location
United States
I just replaced my radiator with the CRS (Chinese) radiator (all aluminum). I'm running cooler then before.... $155 delivered and it works. Be sure to tighten the cooler lines - it took more then I thought they should have needed, but it works.


94005922.jpg

a couple things as well, the stock radiator doesn't use rubber bumpers under the pins (what holds the radiator in place). I used some electrical rubber grommets otherwise your lower hose will rub on the sway bar.... also, it's not perfect - the shroud needs a bit of opening up the hooks to work... (upper part).

and it's $145 here
http://www.rakuten.com/prod/oem-259...r&adid=29963&gclid=CKa1zLP9jc8CFQqGfgodK0gAig

Not bad for an all aluminum radiator. I kinda want to replace my stock one before it blows. (just another ticking time bomb on our H3s)
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
Good to to know the Griffin doesn't have enough cooling capacity. I'm going to try to find the largest 3 or 4 row aluminum universal radiator that will fit and fabricate some mounting brackets. Probably will have to ditch the mechanical fan and go electric for clearance reasons
My other problem with the griffin rad was that there was only 4.3" of clearance left between the rad and the engine. The top of the line spal fans (baddest cfm pullers) are 4". A thicker radiator will reduce your options of having fans to fit.

I'm using a dual 12" spal setup but without a shroud (no more clearance). In comparison, the vette guys upgrade their stock setup to a dual 11" + dual row rad while the 2009+ trucks use dual 14"s stock (but they are of the less powerful fans). The wider truck radiator (28"-32") really helps cool those vehicles as opposed to the 23" rad on the h3.
 
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