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Front Axle Seals:

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
Well my RF axle seal started to seep so I went ahead and tore it down and removed the old seal. Got a new seal and proceeded to install it using a piece of PVC that fit perfectly around the new seal. I also lightly lubed it to make the install go smooth. Well I tapped and I tapped, but it refused to go in P/N: 710548 National brand. I tried again and used a little more force and now I've messed up the new seal and no one now has any in stock... Am I missing something here???????? Honestly quite upset right now after so much work!!!!!!
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
I use a block of wood to tap it in, gives me a bit more persuasive abililty... that said, the GM ones I put on mine didn't go in easily either.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
Hmmm. Odd. From what I remember when I did mine, gettin it to start in was the most tricky part. It tapped in fine after that. I used oem. There shouldn't be much difference though.
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
Got a set ordered that "should" arrive from Houston, TX tomorrow. My PVC piece I used was the perfect diameter for the seal. A block of wood wouldn't get the seal in deep enough from what I can tell. The seal might as well be made out of toilet tissue because I was extremely careful with it until it got bent out of shape. Then I went to town on it just to see if it would go in and I still didn't get it.......

I was able to reinstall the OEM old one with just a few taps.... I was expecting a little bit of a fight since the seals are new, but to totally destroy it within a few seconds and then the fact the darn part is extremely rare just plain SUCKS........ I think I was better off with a seep lol.

I was also curious how hard the lower ball joints are on our H3's. I have it all apart already (one side only so far), and I was thinking about renting the press to remove the old lower ball joint, but I swear it looks like the head of my lower ball joint is fatter than the hole it would be pressing out of.

I already have the upgraded lower ball joints with zerk fittings, I just never had time to install them. If the OEM ball joint does press out (even though it looks like the head is larger than the new replacements). I'm all for renting a tool or buying the harbor freight set. If anyone has done it just give me a few tips lol
 
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Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
Yeah I was surprised lol. I've done a ton of seals in my time, and these just wanna crumble vs go in. First I dented the outside slightly then, It bent and was toast. OEM pops in/out all day long lol.
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
There was a dealership 30mins away that had two in stock luckily. Hopefully they go in well for me. I'm guessing the metal side is on the outside and the rubber side is on the inside?
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,558
Location
Arizona
If you need an OEM seal, let me know. I have a "few" and can ship you one if you need me to. There's s a "blown seal" joke there somewhere. [emoji12]
 
Messages
24
Location
Pittsburgh, Pa
Allow me too place the limitation on my statement above, I've not yet had to deal with the axle seal on this H3, I base my description on every axle seal I've replaced over that 30 years of driving.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
attachment.php

Ummmm. No.....
 

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Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
That seal in that pic isn't in all the way. I know from first hand experience lol.

I got my replacement seals in this morning. But before installing them I engineered a tool out of PVC fittings that didn't do any damage to the new seal, but it gave an even surface to pound it in. Worked like a champ, and while I was at it I went ahead and replaced the upper control arms, and both CV's while I had it all apart (lower ball joints look fine at this time so I didn't mess with them). Cardone CV's were top quality and went in with no problems. Hardest thing I had to deal with was the silly axle seals...... RF was a PITA to install, LF was a PITA to remove, but after that everything went quickly and I discovered an ABS wire that was almost touching the exhaust manifold!!!! So that to me was worth it lol.

The new seals look like an improved design with several more little lips on the seal vs the OEM. The tool I made out of PVC really made it much much easier to install the darn seals. They have to be tapped into position until it's flush with the lip of the bearing race behind it. My H3 still had the OEM seals so I had an OEM situation to compare them against, but in that pic the seal is working, but I'd be willing to bet it's not 100% flush against the bearing race.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
I dunno about that.... With the cv pulled, there's no gap behind the seal. I'm not gonna worry about it now cause like you said, the seal isn't leaking. It's got probably 10-13k miles on them .
Glad you got everything fixed up. sounds like you did little extra while you were in there. What uca's did you put in?
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
Yeah if it's not leaking your fine! I just know both of mine sit back behind the diff mount plate and I even double checked on my wife's H3 when I couldn't get the original replacement in to double check myself.

They're some 160.00 a set units I grabbed off of Rock Auto almost 6 months ago. I just never had time to install them. While I had it all apart I was like I might as well attack it! Upper control arm bolts were fun, but the clip was quick n easy to remove to lower the line down enough to get the bolts out.

I was going to get some Moog units but the quality of the ones I got looked as good as the OEM's I removed with 124k.
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
Can someone tell me how to detach the tie rod, and how to detach the spindle from the upper control arm if thats needed. I know that my impact got the hub nut, but not the uca/spindle bolt.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
BFH! Just give em a couple raps with a copper sledge...they'll pop loose. If they don't separate on the first blow...whack it harder (yeah...real hard). They'll pop right off.

DO NOT USE A PICKLE FORK on the H3. This tool works great on most vehicles but, the H3 has very soft, thin, rubber boots on the ball joints and tie rod ends. They are certain to rip if you try to use a ball joint fork.
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
Loosen the tie rod end nut, lube the joint, and then tap it with a hammer. That should be enough to pop it loose. Upper ball joint is about the same. Remove the nut and bolt lube it, and using a small pry bar spread the back of the knuckle open slightly, then lower the jack under the control arm and it should pop loose as well.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
The only thing that concerns me about the aftermarket stuff is the quality of the rubber they use for the bushings.... I found both in the Dorman brand on amazon for $200.
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
Yeah but the OEM certainly wasn't anything to brag about, especially since it lacked a zerk fitting and removable/replaceable joints. My OEM set made it to 124K, but they were actually shot when I bought my Alpha at 109K, I just milked em along haha. Previous owner had my front end at almost 24 3/4 and the uppers basically tore from the extra stress/angle. I am now back to 23 1/4 and I should be good for a while now. Modifying em with zerk's as soon as I can though lol. I do know the national brand axle seals were top notch and looked to be an improved seal design. Only problem with them was the install, but my tool made it pretty easy!!!
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
Oh yeah...Best4x4 reminded me. Make sure you support the lower control arms when you separate the upper ball joints. The torsion bars are tied directly to the lowers, so if you pop that ball joint without anything under the lower arm...you'll get a big surprise!
 

Best4x4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,042
Location
Vidor, TX
Yep it's gonna drop n pop in a hurry lol. I raised it up to remove pressure on the upper ball joint bolt, then lowered it to get em apart. Worked extremely well along with a small pry bar to give the upper just enough to pop out smoothly and reinstall in the same fashion.

Will post a pic of my homemade tool when I get home. It's now part of my H3 Repair Kit lol. Cost around 4.00 to make
 
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