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locker

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
http://www.jegs.com/i/Eaton/362/196...5&cadevice=m&gclid=CMXx6ZiVi78CFSlgMgodHmoA3A

Is this what I need? Is this the newest version? What else do I need with it? I see talk in the description about bearing/race types... I still gotta find a shop to do it... Got a shop (adventure accessories) that are supposedly hummer specialists that I may look into and they are across the river in st louis.
Will i need bearings or shims or anything else? I'll wire the switch in myself.
 

Woodtick

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Ilanoid, UP MI
Just a thought,have you searched late model junk yards for a totaled out H3 Adventure? You may be able to get your locker and case off a wreck. I can't remember the name, but there is a huge yard in Rockford IL.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
You shouldn't need anything but new gear oil to put it in your case. Nothing moves that affects the shimming of the locker. Of course, if you screw up and scatter the shims across the floor when you pull the open carrier out... well, then the shop will have a bit more work to do. With that said, they shouldn't touch the pinion, and as long as the bearings are fine (they generally are) - you should be good to go.

Now, with that said - I'd replace the axle seals as preventive maintenance. I'd only replace the pinion seal if it was currently leaking.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
Thanks sbg.... How about the bearings and races? Do you just pry the old ones off the old carrier and press them onto the new one? I just did rear axle seals less than 5k miles ago so they should still be ok (unless they get damaged somehow in this process)... And my pinion seal seems to be doing it's job still.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
Woodtick... For what a junkyard will charge, I'm probably better off getting new. That way I know it's new and good. No telling what will come out of a wrecked H3. I don't want it to cost me in the long run.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Thanks sbg.... How about the bearings and races? Do you just pry the old ones off the old carrier and press them onto the new one? I just did rear axle seals less than 5k miles ago so they should still be ok (unless they get damaged somehow in this process)... And my pinion seal seems to be doing it's job still.

I get what you're saying about the new seals, and I'd probably risk it... but by the same token, how much do they cost?

I'd only replace the bearings AND the race (never replace just a bearing or just a race) if they were bad. Today, the quality of bearings is suspect - even the folks that normally you'd trust seem to have some bad bearings. The ones in your vehicle really are better than what you can buy now... and they really never wear out

they make a special tool to press off the bearings
shopping


using that with a hydraulic press the bearing pops right off
 
Last edited:

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
I've got 90k on those bearings... I assume they last a long time but how much would they be to just replace them with new? Might be a little tighter on the bearing preload with new maybe... And hopefully the tech doesn't damage them trying to get em off.
 

Woodtick

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Ilanoid, UP MI
My thoughts on the junk yard stuff ,is you could take your time going through the used parts. You would have very little down time on your daily driver. Freshen up the used stuff and do the swap in a day. The cost on the used stuff would be a big factor .
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
shipping or transport would be a factor since there's nothing around here locally. I would have to pay to ship it to me or pay the gas to go get it.
I really don't wanna get something I have to put parts in. Then it gets into time as well as money. I've never done it before so id there have to take the time to learn how or pay for someone else's time to do it. the locker install should be a pretty straightforward price since it's a pretty cut and dry install. paying somebody to crack open the transfer case could be a lot worse since you never know what you're getting into.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
My thoughts on the junk yard stuff ,is you could take your time going through the used parts. You would have very little down time on your daily driver. Freshen up the used stuff and do the swap in a day. The cost on the used stuff would be a big factor .

Everyone and their brother want a Hummer, locker rear differential. It's a 8.6" Chevy rear end, that means it fits nearly everything GM made that they put a 1/2 axle under.... and the colorado guys are even worse about wanting them because the best they can get stock is 3.73 gears.... so he is in a bidding war with people, to whom, the axle is more valuable because it's got 4.56 gears, a selectable locker AND disk brakes. The colorados didn't have disk brakes so they look at the hummer axle with the thought that they don't have to buy gears, locker, and disk brakes - whereas Digs only needs the locker.

Or to make a long reason shorter.... look for a H3, locker rear end. You'll be lucky to score one for less than $2,000. Digs can do his rear diff with a locker for far less than $1,000 and finally, there's a thread on here where (IIRC) 4speed put a locker in the rear of his H3 in 4 hours...
 

Woodtick

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Ilanoid, UP MI
I did a little search, and didn't realize the demand. I stand corrected . When I bought my truck back in 06 the adventure package was a 3000$ option. I think it was a good investment . Glad my dumb ass finally bought something right for once.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
I'll be looking at around $2300 to outfit my truck with the adv-pkg... Plus I'll be able to use the locker in 4hi. Not just 4lo like the factory setup. Take into account the cost of inflation since 06 and that 3k probably turns into 4 or 5k today.
 

Woodtick

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Ilanoid, UP MI
You have a nice clean rig and well worth putting 2-3 G into the drive train. Once again,I had no idea the Adventure package was that rare. I need to go tell the wife, what a great rear end I have. It is Sat night.:giggle:
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
Thanks man. It's extra clean now. I washed and waxed it the other day. Lol. The plan is the drivetrain. Rebuild some front end stuff. Then either the Rancho/soa kit or Thorparts bumpers w/ winch. Not sure which one of those I'll do first. Probably put alpha t-bars in the front in preparation for the weight of the bumper and winch...
 

Woodtick

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Ilanoid, UP MI
I have wished I had a winch many times. I have been stuck by my self,one too many times. The locker didn't get me out. When you high center,you are done. Look at that pic of me in the Badlands under that tree. I wasn't stuck,I needed to be pulled sideways out from under that tree. We had to wait for the THOR rig to yank on me to get out. No damage by the way. If I had a winch and block and tackle set up,we could of got out on our own. With all that said....... All the HP,lockers,lifts,tires,and what ever other bolt on stuff you have. You better have a friend with a strap or a winch.
 

Woodtick

Well-Known Member
Messages
801
Location
Ilanoid, UP MI
My sons exact words"even if you had your chain saw with you,you're screwed." The funny part was the alpha got hung up on a dead tree a hundred yards up the creak and Skidrow waffled his nurf bar into his tire a couple hundred feet south of me. This all happened at the same time. Mean while,you and CJ went though there like it was a mall parking lot.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
The 659-010 is listed as the correct diff. In Eatons catalog. Also...they list only one offset for 2.73-up which is very unusual. I'm not sure if the new version has a new part number, or if it's simply a redesign of the previous part number. You should call Eaton direct and talk to an engineer to make sure u get the correct part. From the looks of the catalog....there is only one offset.

At 90k...you're on the fence for new bearings. Even if u keep the same bearings, you'll want to check the backlash. 90% of the time...u can keep the same shim arrangement. But don't assume all is good....check the lash with a dial indicator. Pinion depth won't change but, lash can be off when u swap a carrier. If u choose to keep your existing bearings, u can swap the carrier yourself. If u want new bearings...u should take it to a pro. Pinion setup can be tricky if you're not familiar the the procedure, and it also requires some special tools.

Frankly....I would spend $$ on the 4:1 t-case before the locker. It's more bang-for-the-buck, IMO. In either case (diff or t-case)...I wouldn't screw with them unless they were showing signs of failure. If they aren't yet....just keep wheelin. They will eventually.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
The plan is the 4:1 first. I've got a ton of overtime coming this week. I'll have almost 20hrs after today just for sat and sun. If I hit 30+ hrs this week, I'm getting a hold of Zach and ordering the t-case. I'll have to take a little longer on the locker. I will most likely have a shop do it. I just haven't committed to any particular shop yet. I gotta ask around and see whose reputable around here. I know you said your guy charges $250 for the swap. Is that common pricing or the "good buddy" discount?
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
Doesn't weigh a lot?!?! What do you benchpress? 5-600lbs... Lol.
Just to clarify, that $250 is for the locker install.
Do you guys know the OD of the bearings/races? The info on JEGS has 2 sizes listed. A smaller set and a larger set... I'm thinking about getting the locker and bearings/races and taking that to a shop. They should have access to the necessary shims if they need em... Other than that, it should just be labor.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,350
Location
Meridian, ID
Damn...I have no clue.

T case isn't too heavy, when installing it you do not need to remove your crossmember. you can if u want. I thought I had to so I did and I regret it. I spent more time getting the crossmember back in then installing the case. My crossmember is so dented, tweaked and the mounting ears have been ripped off slightly so I had to reweld them back on. Needless to say the big ****in hammer got a workout. You just need some wobbly sockets and long wrenches. The locker install is more involved.
 
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