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Hunter Edition H3 Alpha

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Finally caught the fact I had put the hood painting in here twice, duh!
 
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H3slate

Brush raked
Messages
983
Location
Tualatin, Oregon
Looks good! Let us know how it holds up. Scarsman has it on his hood cowls, it looks really cool, but it has not held up well to the tight trails around here. It shows all the branch scratches, and peeled in a couple of places. At least it is easy to redo.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I don't run too many brushy trails that have limbs that would hit the hood. But ya never know. Like you said if it does not hold up I can peel it. I will probably go ahead and really paint it with the textured paint I use on everything else next time. Somehow it felt better to try it this way first and warm up to the look.
 

Ron46

Capt.
Messages
807
Location
NJ
Looks good! I like the paint scheme. I never got into sailing, it always looked like it would be fun and I wanted to try it, instead I got into fishing and more fishing lol. Anytime you guys are up in NJ let me know, I'll take you guys fishing on the 65ft.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I finally got out after all the electrical grid came back on and the family was set.

Original art by Hunner titled "H3 in it's natural environment"
8044_zps8afa3274.jpg
 

Sennin

Well-Known Member
Messages
453
Location
South Africa
HI Hunner,

Regarding your air intake tube you did, what did you do to the breather pipe that connects to the resonator box, as you eliminate the resonator, and then the breather pipe is open for any contaminant to enter?

file.php
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
On the Alpha I screwed in a pipe fitting threaded on one end, hose barb on the other end, into the metal pipe and attached the crankcase breather hose to that.
Welding in a short piece of pipe is another option that I did on my I-5 in 06 when I made a tube.
The contaminated air and crude that actually come OUT of the hose and go into your intake causing the throttle body to need cleaning on a regular basis is a problem we live with.
If blocked off that would pressurize the crankcase or left loose would spew stuff everywhere especially offroading at steep angles.
DAH_0770cr.jpg

DAH_3902.jpg

DAH_3922_resize-1.jpg
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Ha ha yea I just shot you one and put it in the first post. I was a bit slow I guess.
When I did that I was not where I could use a welder so I just put some Locktite on it and carefully let it tap it's own way in. Never did weld or braze it.
 

Sennin

Well-Known Member
Messages
453
Location
South Africa
Ha ha yea I just shot you one and put it in the first post. I was a bit slow I guess.
When I did that I was not where I could use a welder so I just put some Locktite on it and carefully let it tap it's own way in. Never did weld or braze it.

He he, gr8 stuff, thanks Hunner, you have excellent ideas
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I finally updated my technology and got an ipad. I got my dual mount all made up and my nav can't go this time so I broke it back down. I want to try this setup with the ipad and my laptop. DeLorme North America quads still holds me to it with the detail it has. I did order a new updated GPS puck for the laptop.
I'm trying MotionX HD drive on the iPad for a new twist.
The combination gives me lots of options. I still need to pin down how to link the laptop to the ipad so it can use the cell data. I think I have to have tethering re-instated at ATT.
So for now I'm heading out after four days of rain hitting 2 inches in the area I am going. I want to catch a couple of falls with lots of water. Clear tomorrow and 3 more days of rain, must be spring.
Current set up. (it's ok I'm a trained professional. I have voice commands.) she tells me where to go, sound familiar?
DAH_1720cr.jpg
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Did some more testing and now have a mount coming for my friends Ipad so we can run both at the same time.
Got some more components and now have a cradle that will boost 4GLTE for my phone and can tether the ipad and laptop to that. way cool.
I got another mount for my digital video cam since I robbed that one for my phone.
I got a GPS module for my Nikon D600 that locates my images and using Lightroom will link to Google Earth and show my location and the images on the map and satellite images.
Looks like severe weather moving in for Thursday here in Arkansas so we may do some storm chasing since we are set up for that as well.
Haven't had time for a better picture without garage junk. Ready for launch!
 
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High Five H2

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,627
Location
West Texas
Hey, I really like those hutchinson wheels but I can't seem to find them anywhere. Is there a part number or something? Also, what are the things on the snorkel covers on the back of the hood?
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Hey, I really like those hutchinson wheels but I can't seem to find them anywhere. Is there a part number or something? Also, what are the things on the snorkel covers on the back of the hood?

You can find the rims on Rubberduck's website

The things on the vent covers are lights, I believe they are on a pivot system so he has control where the point (forward, to one side or the other...)
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
They are Hutchinson wheels and you can get them direct from them or they have authorized Rock Monster dealers to sell them. Just tell them what they are for to get the right back spacing and hole.
The "things" on the cowl covers are GoLights from Magna light and are remote controlled left right and up and down.
They make many models.
These are close to what I have and less expensive than some.
http://www.magnalight.com/pc-122-23...emote-control-spotlight--permanent-mount.aspx

Bunch of hoot owls!!!
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I guess I should re-build the thread on those lights, it seems to have vanished over time. Instead of in the tech section I will put that here. I can salvage some of my posts from years before.

It will take me awhile to add the pictures.

I have the older style wireless remote. There is a newer design but often they have a sale on the older style lights. I own three of these, soon to be four. I have one on two different boats as well as the Hummer. They have been real wet, two with salt water, banged around covered in mud and keep on ticking! I have not yet replaced any bulbs. They are brighter than the headlights and brighter than the OEM roof lights. They are rectangle but put out a round beam? However they are great. Mounted on the cowl they do have a slight tilt to the outside. A wedgy made out of Starboard, a polymer material I use alot to fabricate boat instrument consoles would work if you don't like that. It comes in black and the color is all the way thru. Can be worked with woodworking tools. I found that the tilt allows the light when turned out will shine down close to the vehicle to see obstacles. The remote has different speeds, and rotation and up and down. They can be programmed together or separate.
I thru bolted mine with SS hardware and nyloc bolts on the Hummer. I also made disconnects under the hood with a fuse inline. That way you can remove them if need be. Placement of the holes for the bolts is a little tricky to miss the reinforcement partitions on the underside of the cowl. I have not had any problems with them bouncing loose. As with the roof lights, especially on a white hood there is some backscatter or glare. I stick on my magnetic glare pads if Im going to do alot of offroad driving at night. I do that alot on Forest Service roads here in Arkansas. Gotta watch for deer in the road!
I will try to answer any questions for anybody trying this.
http://www.golight.com/products/golight.html
They are available here. I payed $140 back when I got mine.
http://www.magnalight.com/pc-122-45...-spotlight--permanent-mount-click-to-buy.aspx




The fourth bolt in the upper left is inside that baffle. You can see the enlarged hole where I could get in a 1/4 drive socket.
I have removed one light in this picture to put on my Whaler. I have not cleaned up the outline of dirt it left. I did find some plugs for the holes. I will have to order another light for the boat in the spring as Im going to put it back on the H3. Anyway that shows if you want to remove them it looks ok. I have not had a problem where I go but some jerk might try to take one.
Someone ask about the view or if they blocked your vision. Not much, you get used to it. However if you park them aiming backwards, DO NOT turn them on. You won't like it. If you forget and leave the covers on, they will melt!
I used a water resistant fuse holder. The one with the two orange wires. Behind that is the disconnect for positive and negative.
Hope all that helps.
 
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High Five H2

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,627
Location
West Texas
heh, awesome. they're like remote control cop lights. that's cool.

From what I understand the hitchinson wheels for H3 are pretty hard to find, or they stopped making them or something. is that true? the rubber duck site says they only have 5.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Well actually in my case, more like farmer rice levy lights or duck hunting trail lights or lights for offroading, or boating but they can be used for any application.

 
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chad

Well-Known Member
Messages
545
Location
florida
man those police ones look good! maybe if more police would have bought those instead for suburbans then hummer could have stayed in business, hummer just marketed those trucks very bad!

i put my two go lights on the roof rack, sets back behind the sun roof but being they are a spotlight it projects out very nicely to the front and the sides, i almost did the same mount hunner did but ended up making my own mounts for the roof rack out of some L brackets from lowes and plexiglass. i love these lights! mine came with the harwire switch and the wireless remote, the hardwired switch is really nice quality but i just cant seem to find a place for it since its big, has the toggle and switch for turning the lights, so i just use the wireless remote.
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Shocking Observation!

This is really not technical enough for that section but may show some things to look for if you wheel hard.

The Alpha lives on with around 73,000 miles.
Met up with some forum members from out of state and ran the Hot Springs ORV, formerly Superlift.

We found the trails a bit above the old ratings and some really rough sections. It was fun but if you play you pay.

Trail report.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...Arkansas-event&p=153580&viewfull=1#post153580

Now I remember why I quit going over there!
I put on my old Cooper 35 STT's since they already had some trail damage. They have been sitting outside but covered.
I think the rubber was less pliable and I was running with a bit of jumping and spinning going on.

The rears with the locker on grinding on them really got chewed up.




I went over to try to balance what was left just for getting to and from the trails.
One is cupping badly and waffles some on pavement but for short distances will do.

When we let it down the front end bounced and three of us all had surprise looks on our faces.
Ok maybe my shocks with 60,000+ miles may be getting soft?

More looking and the shorter extended bump stops, built based on my findings when I made the Franken stops from cut and paste OEM, really got chewed up too. I did not think it was possible to compress them that much but like I said, it was rough climbing those shale outcroppings.

I do have a little more travel with my extended sway links and tie rods that articulate 30 degrees.(still same spherical rod ends with a total of over 100,000 miles.) so they got hammered a more than stock travel.

They did not come out though.
Age could have something to do with that as they have been in since 08.



I ordered more Bilsteins as I believe they did well until recently.

After removing them I can compress them a little but I cannot move the new ones.
They have a little life in them if someone wanted to run those instead of worn out OEM.

The model for the H3 are now listed on some sites for the H3 noting that if you have keys or are lifted slightly these are the ones. Actually were originally for 1500 series truck slightly lifted.
Eshocks had the best price at about $77 each with free shipping.
(Don's Sport Vehicle Sales)



Arrived FED EX in a couple of days.
Ok so being the cheap ole guy I am instead of paying $35 each to have them installed I grabbed my new tire jack and my new air/hydraulic jack.
I wanted to inspect things and take my time anyway.

Looks like I could have gone ahead and put new brakes on.

The bottle jack just fit under the front skid plate.


In the rear it took a partial pump of a rapid lift floor jack to fit it under there.
This was with the 35's.
I rotated and switched back to the 33's and was still able to get the front out but had to lift the rear a bit.


Now if I can move my left arm tomorrow I will be fine.
Rotator cuff is messing with me.

Anyway me and the Hunner Hummer are living on, C'est la vie.
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Here is a tip I recall now that I replaced shocks.

If you have my skids you can jack up by the rear diff first, place jackstands under the frame forward of the wheels on the front skids.
Remove the wheels so you can see and get around better.

Then remove the center jack under the diff and place one under either side of the diff at the end, one at a time, and jack it up as far as it will go.
This will tilt to full droop on the opposing side.

Doing this you can just squeeze a Bilstein in from the side of the skid and into the OEM shock mount.

If you don't know, these gas shocks when the shipping strap is removed will fully extend. I can't hold them back or compress them with out a second jack and sometimes use a pry bar to move them over to the mount.

That is with the top already bolted in.
 
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SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
On Tuesday I'm replacing the shocks on my H3 - the ranchos are going away, I bent one and bought cheapie lift shocks to replace them all. good thing is I'll have shocks that have 6" travel in the front at 12" in the back (allegedly, we'll see when I get a tape measure on them).
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I got help for once and installed the e-trailer air bags on a lift. Much easier.

https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/Hummer/H3/2008/AL59563.html?vehicleid=20081111975

While not as robust as Firestones for more of a lift type application, I believe these will serve my purpose.

They do state, for maintaining stock height, which is what I want.

I put 15 pounds in them today and immediately felt a difference in the ride.
It seemed more stable, not rocking around on the springs.

My shocks work great but even the new ones if I hit a narrow bump like a concrete seam that is unlevel the initial hit you can tell the shock softened the bump but then it slams the rear down and anything loose in the rear bounces.

I like having the shocks control keeping the wheels on the ground offroad going slow but on rough pavement it can be harsh.

The air bags took that out. I went around to my regular places it did that and no slamming down.
Great for my camera equipment I have on board most of the time that rides at the very back.

That was just a simple test.
Today I loaded up my average 400 lbs of tools and parts and several cases of photo equipment.
I also hooked up my 13' Whaler with a tongue weight I can't lift, about 250 lbs I'm guessing until I weigh it.

So far I think this has made a nice improvement.

I checked them at full droop on the rack and all looks good.
Interesting point is as they come they are not fully extended. Part of the bag at the bottom is rolled over the bottom raised base and needs to be pulled up when fitting them.

I ran the Shrader valves to the right of the trailer hitch on a flat plate that is already there.

PS if you have my Hunner EXtreme skids just place the square "U" bolt upside down with the threaded part facing up. No need to remove the skid! I used the cross piece that was to go under the spring, across the top to take up some thread. They could be cut off some later.






First photo is 5 lbs so as not to fold them down.


Second photo 60 lbs.


Might as well go somewhere now, I'm loaded up and level!
 
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