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H3 Transmission Cooler Thread Number 3 - install with pictures

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,442
Location
Scottsdale
Better late than never in joining the party, right?

Reloader and I installed a transmission cooler in my H3 today, about a week after he did one in his. One of his primary concerns was that maybe he bought a two small of a cooler and after a bit of research, it appears that the 14,400 BTU ones are designed to be additional cooling when retaining the OEM setup. If bypassing the OEM, it's recommended to get a bigger cooler. I went with this one from Amazon: Long Tru-Cool LPD Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler 4589 24,000 GVW as it has about 22,000 BTU cooling capacity.

It's designed to not need a thermostat or thermal bypass as the fluid path changes based on the viscosity of the fluid as it heats up. If I lived in a cooler climate I might add the thermal bypass.

Here's the package with the contents as received. Note that the contents are exactly the same as other brands, so it's apparent that one mfr. is making them for different brands. The only hardware we used were the brackets, and we of course use the hose and the cooler.

We used M6 bolts, washers and nylock nuts to mount the cooler.
TransCooler%20%281%29-L.jpg


We decided to position it on the passenger side of the radiator, as the driver's side has the a/c condensor lines and it was a really tight fit. To make this a bit easier we relocated the horn by extending the power wires to it.

The first hole we used was one of the existing holes for the hood latch assembly. The trans cooler is standing about 1.5" in front of the radiator. You can see the Sharpie marks to the left. 1" left of the OEM hole for the grill, for the second top hole that had not yet been drilled. Unlike the driver's side bracket, this one was installed at a slight angle, maybe 15 degrees. (No picture of that bracket)
TransCooler%20%2822%29-L.jpg


The second hole was drilled in the center support a bit below the ambient temperature sensor.
TransCooler%20%283%29-L.jpg


The bottom passenger side mount: we utilized the lower grill bolt hole and cut through the shroud to mount to the radiator. At this point the radiator is rock solid and isn't moving. (The black mounting screw is in place temporarily - we removed it to reinstall the grill and then put the screw back in its place)
TransCooler%20%2811%29-L.jpg


The horn was relocated to the driver's side using an existing hole. The wires were lengthened.
TransCooler%20%2823%29-L.jpg


Underneath the clips were removed from the OEM cooler and the fluid drained from the cooler and the lines. I replaced about 2.5 quarts in this process. To further clean out the cooler we sprayed in a lot of brake cleaner and blew it out with compressed air just in case this fails in the future - we want to minimize the residual trans fluid that makes it back into the coolant in the event of failure.

Note that we removed the two sway bar brackets to provide for easier clearance.
TransCooler%20%286%29-L.jpg


Each trans line was cut about 1.5" from the end and fitted with plastic caps and hose clamps. They were then reinserted and clipped into the OEM trans cooler to minimize any future contamination from dirt.
TransCooler%20%286%29-L.jpg


TransCooler%20%2817%29-L.jpg


From there the crimps were cut on the trans lines, just enough to get a screwdriver in there to expand the crimps and pull them off. The hoses could then be pulled off, revealing the trans lines with factory barbs.
TransCooler%20%2818%29-L.jpg


In this picture you can see the crimp being expanded. You can also see where we cut off the trans lines to create the nubs that went back into the OEM cooler.
TransCooler%20%2815%29-L.jpg


Here's one line with the crimp and hose removed.
TransCooler%20%2814%29-L.jpg


A flaring tool was put to the ends to make absolutely sure that the hoses would not peel off.
TransCooler%20%2813%29-L.jpg


The inlet hose to the cooler was fitted to the bottom; the outlet to the top. The lines were clamped with fuel line clamps as they provide better clamping with less chance of cutting the lines than traditional worm clamps. Additional layers of rubber were provided at any place we were concerned about rubbing.

We only had an extra 1" of line from what was supplied in the box.
TransCooler%20%284%29-L.jpg


TransCooler%20%2812%29-L.jpg


TransCooler%20%2810%29-L.jpg


Lines were zip tied periodically and clearances checked.

We added back 2 qts of fluid, ran the truck for a while, checked the trans fluid again and added another half quart.

Total time was probably close to four hours for this job as we did it. Total cost was about $130 for cooler, extra hardware and trans fluid.

For Reloader, since he already installed that 14,400 BTU cooler (and I had bought one too) he's just going to double up that cooler in series to get his desired cooling capacity.
 
Last edited:

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,442
Location
Scottsdale
Here's Reloader's revised install on his truck with doubled up smaller coolers. The lines feed from the bottom and push the fluid to the top so as best to push any air out of the system. He used spacers to stand off the second cooler, with about an 1/8" between the two coolers.

2014-02-01%2013.50.02-L.jpg


2014-02-01%2013.50.11-L.jpg
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
So when you're installing a cooler, you wanna make it so the trans line feeds in the bottom and returns via the top fitting? This will hopefully purge any air out?
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,442
Location
Scottsdale
Yes, otherwise an air pocket could form in the cooler that prevents fluid from reaching that part of the cooler. If you are mounting horizontally, with the in/out on the right and left, you want them pointing up and not down for the same reason. That's the recommendation from one of the resellers.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,350
Location
Meridian, ID
Mine is mounted just like yours. So the bottom is from the trans then the fluid moves up the cooler and exits the top?
 

Sennin

Well-Known Member
Messages
453
Location
South Africa
What is your views on me using the following cooler for my H3:
Tru-Cool Max LPD4739 4739 40,000 GVW Low Pressure Drop Transmission Oil Cooler with Thermal Bypass


My thinking is that with the ARb bumper I have reduced flow already, plus the ambient temps here are rather high in summer, and I'm busy buying a 1.6 ton camping caravan to tow, so all the cooling I can get will be advantagous

what im going to tow?
attachment.php
 
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alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
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10,442
Location
Scottsdale
Sennin, in my opinion that one would be adequate for your needs, though I haven't been through a summer yet to determine if mine is going to do what I need it to, though I think it will.
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
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2,317
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What is your views on me using the following cooler for my H3:
Tru-Cool Max LPD4739 4739 40,000 GVW Low Pressure Drop Transmission Oil Cooler with Thermal Bypass


My thinking is that with the ARb bumper I have reduced flow already, plus the ambient temps here are rather high in summer, and I'm busy buying a 1.6 ton camping caravan to tow, so all the cooling I can get will be advantagous

what im going to tow?
attachment.php

If ur getting temps close to wat we get here in the summer (+50 c) look into something with a cooling fan as well, thats what im looking for. Ive been running hptuners and logging my trans temp for a while and noticed that I get 95 celcius while driving normally with 35s and outside temp of 40 c (i also noticed its the same temp as the engine coolant too).
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
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10,442
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Scottsdale
Nope. I just put my tongue on it and if it takes 2+ seconds to burn then it's okay.

I don't have a Scanguage so I can't measure the temps.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,350
Location
Meridian, ID
Nope. I just put my tongue on it and if it takes 2+ seconds to burn then it's okay.

I don't have a Scanguage so I can't measure the temps.

:giggle: sounds painful yet accurate. I thought u had one but either way I'm sure your trans is running much cooler now. I wondered if your trans gave out due to heat, I can almost guarantee when mine gives out and I have it rebuilt whoever rebuilds it will tell me there will be signs of overheating.

These motors run hot and the trans will run hotter. I recommend a cooler for everyone.
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,558
Location
Arizona
Nope. I just put my tongue on it and if it takes 2+ seconds to burn then it's okay.

I don't want to know who, what, when, where or why you are sticking your tongue in places that result in "tongue burns" but you night be posting in the wrong forum. Please check your URL before you post. TMI, as they say! :eek:


Sent from my XT1080 using Tapataint
 

Sennin

Well-Known Member
Messages
453
Location
South Africa
If ur getting temps close to wat we get here in the summer (+50 c) look into something with a cooling fan as well, thats what im looking for. Ive been running hptuners and logging my trans temp for a while and noticed that I get 95 celcius while driving normally with 35s and outside temp of 40 c (i also noticed its the same temp as the engine coolant too).

I'm monitoring my radiator temperature(in celsius), as a rule of thumb I'm then calculating my trans temp to be 20 degrees higher. only when towing and going up going up hills do I get my radiator into the 100 degree temps (and this is in 27 C outside temp) planning to do Botswana and Namibie over december where the temp outside gets to the 50 degrr mark and then I dont want to struggle.


Was thinking of installing the additional cooler across the two additional electric fans, so when the fans kick in they will assist cooling (and I also want to change out the stock fan with the PCMofNC electric fan)
 

amrg

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I'm monitoring my radiator temperature(in celsius), as a rule of thumb I'm then calculating my trans temp to be 20 degrees higher. only when towing and going up going up hills do I get my radiator into the 100 degree temps (and this is in 27 C outside temp) planning to do Botswana and Namibie over december where the temp outside gets to the 50 degrr mark and then I dont want to struggle.


Was thinking of installing the additional cooler across the two additional electric fans, so when the fans kick in they will assist cooling (and I also want to change out the stock fan with the PCMofNC electric fan)

Be prepared for a huge drop in performance if ur gna be in areas up to 50 celsius. My truck dropped 2 seconds in 0-100 km/h acceleration at WOT when the temps changed from 27c to the current 40c. Besides the fact that I want to run my trans at a cooler yemp, an extra fan wld help more with cooling the engine bay.
 

Sennin

Well-Known Member
Messages
453
Location
South Africa
Be prepared for a huge drop in performance if ur gna be in areas up to 50 celsius. My truck dropped 2 seconds in 0-100 km/h acceleration at WOT when the temps changed from 27c to the current 40c. Besides the fact that I want to run my trans at a cooler yemp, an extra fan wld help more with cooling the engine bay.

I have experienced the performance drop when temps increase but isnt a big concer as when I tow I keep the gearbox in 3rd.

Im just worried that adding a extra fan onto the cooler will force me to move the cooler to a less desirable location as the extra fan wont fit between grill and stock fans if you understand my thinking

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
 

crwalkerasla

Well-Known Member
Messages
312
Location
Corinth, MS
If there is anyone still out there regarding this thread, I have a question. As far as I know, there are only 2 things wrong with my '06 H3. 1. CAT codes, 2. A small trans fluid leak where the fittings enter the radiator. 2 local trany shops have told me that it will be $85-110 to look into this leak & it may require replacing the metal lines to get a tight fit. Would this not be a better option considering I pull a 16' HD trailer with my H3. I have seen a few on Amazon with electric fans in the $140-165 range, but I noticed the ones installed were 'fan-less'. Are we cramped for space where you recommended mounting the cooler? 2 Dims are shown. thinking one is the cooler & the other the fan.
[h=1]Mishimoto MMOC-F Heavy Duty Transmission Cooler with Electric Fan[/h]
  • Ideal for any heavy-duty, supercharged, or turbocharged vehicle
  • Overall Size: 7.5" x 12.8" x 2.36" / Inlet & Outlet: 0.34" / Rows: 2
  • Includes 8" slim electric fan for maximum cooling
  • Includes mounting equipment for universal installation
  • Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty
  • Construction: Aluminum Tube and Fin
  • Overall Size: Height - 5.5", Length - 12.5", Thickness - 3.25"

  • Inlet - .34", Outlet - .34"
  • Rows - 2 Kit Includes: Transmission cooler, Nipple end size: 3/8, Push-On - 8" Electric fan
  • CFM: 1100, RPM: 2800, Amps: 4

Anyone out there think this will fit?



 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,442
Location
Scottsdale
Do you need that fan? That's only going to have an effect at idle, or really low speeds, and that's now when your tranny needs cooling. Unless you are mounting this elsewhere, like to the frame and then a fan would be needed in that location. If you are mounting in front of the radiator, I doubt that fan would be of benefit.

The other thing to research is that the tube and fin coolers are not as efficient as other types like have been referenced here. You'll notice we went with stacked plate coolers. Size-wise it's about the same as you are referencing, albeit without the fan.
 

Jack_M

Well-Known Member
Messages
90
Location
Vanderbilt, Mi
Ok so after reading about this issue with the radiator I am wanting to do this but I do have a question I have seen several different coolers talked about I am pretty sure I want to get the same one Alrock got but since I live in Michigan I really am going to need a thermal bypass I really have not heard much talk about these has anybody used one is there a preferred brand? Kinda new to all of this! Any input would be greatly appreciated!
 
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