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Cr 500 af

Scarsman

Sponsor
Messages
1,561
Location
Monroe, WA
yep..

I can remember buying 2 smokers new many years ago and having the salesman preach warm them up good....

and go a little rich on the pre-mix for winter or a jetting change..

Yep! I seized up a '73 Yamaha RT-1 360 riding on snow. Learned to rejet after that! Also used to put ice screws in my tires. :D. Funny thing though, I let that bike sit for 10 minutes and kicked it over. Fired up and ran. for another year!

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Here's where I'm differing from the instructions. They suggest getting a 98-99 CR 250 airbox so you can take the rubber boot and attach it to the CRF250 airbox. I looked at the pictures, and believed that the 250 transition and the 500 transition were the same..... it's nice to be right on occasion



cut out to the white line

looking even more like a motorcycle

 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Thanks :)

time to start in on all the little, time consuming things to make this go
Exhaust

I put the plastics on to see if this still hits... it does


muffler mount needed


another contact point - front fender



lots and lots of little things to do - but, if things work right, I'll be ready to make some noise with this by week's end.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
getting closer


for those of you keeping track; let me list out all the parts I used (beside the motor, exhaust (with modifications) and clutch) from the CR500
it's a long list

here it goes

Rear shock
Handlebars

nothing else transfers.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
What did you use on the gas tank to get it fixed up?

heat gun and patience - though, now that I'm done I'm considering buying another tank then fusing those outlets together at a 90* angle so that I get full capacity and don't end up with the hose-engineering nightmare that is soon to come.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Got more done
there is a comment on the conversion manual that says the chinese radiators have some troubles fitting... yep, they do

and the other side.... same issue different spot


so I kept working on this until I got a hole in it (dang it)


I don't know what I'm going to do - I can buy a tank that someone else has flattened to clear the spark plug and the cooling lines; but I don't like their solution for cooling lines (which there is another issue I'll bring up in a bit).... so maybe I'll just make a tank.... why not? it's not like I'm moving to Salt Lake city or anything soon

so here's the issue (with the spark plug which is really the worse issue)


back to the radiators...
the issue clearanced


and more clearance


other side is easy


keep in mind, I'm heating these up to about 400-600 degrees before I tap on them to minimize cracking and aid in moving the metal

and left side clearanced more


so here's the other problem... one of the holes is stripped.... I think I'm going to get clever and build a manifold to tie the two together then tie into the radiator. I'll weld the manifold to the head



as I said, some clearancing was needed


back to the other side... the other issue with the right side the hose from the water pump is vertical and a larger diameter.... so it's tough to get a hose onto it - fortunately conversion parts has a clever solution for it (if you can weld aluminum)








installed


I ended up putting the coil next to the carb.... seems about the best spot for it.

So tomorrow, I'll either buy another tank or the material to build one.... and build that manifold as well.... the wire it, then vroom.
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
Sometimes the simplest answer fixes a complex problem.
I had two problems:
1) I didn't know the wiring on the CR500 because it was apart when I got it
2) I had to move the coil to fit it....
Which left me with 10 wires and a billion potential solutions.... until
I noticed that if I turned the CDI box over; that it'd connect to the stator (plug in) and it became obvious which was the coil wire and which was the kill switch wire

I have to buy a couple butt connectors tomorrow to make the wiring looks good; but otherwise, mark that "done"

I also finished the radiators and

pulled the head. It's far easier to cap the two outlets in the head, the drill, and make an elbow to weld to the head where it doesn't interfere with the gas tank

I also found a shorter spark plug (woohoo)

so once my replacement tank gets here, I should be ready to make some noise.... crossing my fingers, by Christmas
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
I wish I learned to weld aluminum in shop class... but I was too busy stuffing a GSXR750 street bike motor into a golf cart :D
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
I wish I learned to weld aluminum in shop class... but I was too busy stuffing a GSXR750 street bike motor into a golf cart :D

and a worthwhile pursuit that would be. I never took a class in welding aluminum - we built a display for Nike where the aluminum needed welding - so I stopped by my local welding supply store, got some tips, and kept at it until it worked..... it's really not that hard it's kind of a cross between TIG welding stainless and soldering (I also weld using AC so I don't bother with the brush) - and easier than steel in that it's really hard to overheat and blow holes.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
I assumed it would be easier to blow through and make holes! Interesting!

I know some talented aluminum welder a so I always take my work over to then with some beer and call it a day.... When I get me own shop some day I'll take the time to learn I guess haha
 

SuperBuickGuy

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,403
Location
Woodinville, WA
another tank and more plastic melting... though I think I'm starting to get it


then an experiment to get it to stop leaking


it didn't work - but what I found is this:
- the plastic is most easy to work with when you heat it to greater than 350* and let it cool to about 315* then work it
- air pressure is your friend when you're trying to solve leaks
 

Schwarttzy

Sponsor
Messages
1,348
Location
Rockford IL
Anticipation is killing me for you to finish this build.

I got a 94-95ish CR125, and if you wanted put a bigger motor into it, what would you consider for it?
 
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