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  1. #1
    Super Swamper
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    Search and Rescue H3 Alpha build

    I swear that one of these days, I'm going to put lettering on my bumper that says this "99%er" then in small print under it "who uses his Hummer off road".... I honestly bought my H3 to use off road, Jeeps are great - however, when you swap axles, transfer case, put in an LS motor and transmission, box the frame, cut the fenders, swap the tires and wheels - is it really still a Jeep? Anyway, rather than go that route - I present my H3 (not to mention it cost 15k less than a Rubicon and goes every where Rubicon goes....but I digrees)
    All of the work/swaps/installs are geared towards doing Search and Rescue; so radical isn't my point, reliability and increased capability while still maintaining its status as a luxury SUV (after all, I can't imagine roughing it in the woods without my DVD player, and heated leather seats....

    My first H3


    My current H3, a 2008 H3, Alpha Adventure package, I bought it was 85k miles for 18k

  2. #2
    Super Swamper
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    Winch install









    DAMMIT



    a bit more progress



    dang, if I hadn't told about the drilling the hole in the condensor, it'd look like I knew I was doing



    eventually, I'll hinge the license plate... but for now, I just moved it up.... or I'll simply leave it off and argue with the WHP

  3. #3
    Super Swamper
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    Underside protection
    a bit more work
    the H3 has 85k miles, so it's time to change the shocks



    the transfer case skid plate is weak - so I replaced it with something studier







    (nothing like having some spare stainless around)


    there will be skid plating here - just not sure how I'm going to do it


    wanted a skid plate, didn't want to spend $350 on a plate - so I copied it
    start point









    I'm sure GM figured that, because the transmission and oil pan were well above the frame - it didn't make sense to put a skid plate on their off-road package trucks (Jeep does the same calculation)... but you could buy it, for $500 plus installation. I found one for $350 on ebay, but why buy when you can build?


    this actually stronger; and gives the added benefit of supporting the lower cradle (thus less flex in the front suspension)


    So now, it is a completely flat plate from the center of the front tires to behind the transfer case (which is pretty close to the rear wheels)....


    I also solved some rattles. This is another one of those "I'll just save some time by buying it" where I could have done a lot better and for 1/3rd the cost (dum-da-dum-dum-dummmmm) and in the end, if it still rattles; I will build it and have a rack for when my wife gets her Jeep


    So here's how it sits - notice how the metal bends under the hi-lift jack mount?



    so to fix it, I put a kink in all of the 'other' flat plates; then bent a 90* and kinked the flat plates for some strength



    I also siliconed it down so there's a positive damper between the rattlely bits (one nice feature I didn't notice was they forgot to put an insulator at the end of one strip)


    nice work smittybilt.... your winch better be better than this or I'll come hunt you down and pull your cars apart with a Warn winch.


    Next is fix the front A-arms.... amazing, less than 100k miles and the bushings are shot. Also, I guess they didn't put rebuildable ball joints in the end of the a-arms; so you have to buy the complete a-arm. Fine, I've bought new ones; but after I install them, I'm going to figure out a way to put poly bushings and rebuildable/lubeable joints on the upper A arm.

  4. #4
    Super Swamper
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    On to happier stuff.... anyone who owns a GM car with a center stack like the H3 should really pay attention to this:


    The far right knob's light is dead.



    the GM repair



    $192.79 plus shipping and handling.... for a stinking blown out light bulb...


    OR


    the HVAC control literally pops off the dash (pry CAREFULLY - starting in a corner, paying attention to the middle one)



    it's off



    gently pry the back cover off - it's held by clips that aren't, technically, suppose to be removeable. Make sure the middle dial (fan control) that bit is vertical - and the rear part is vertical to it



    The bulbs - are 12v 65 mA, I replaced it with a 12v 50 mA
    here are the bulb holders

    new bulb is the white-wrapped one

    desolder and remove the old bulb
    drill the hole to put the new bulb i
    solder back together
    ugly but functional



    back to this picture - left corner, the bulb simply twists in place



    and other than a moment where I wondered why all the lights were flashing at me - it works excellent



    I will be (haha, like not unless it blows) all those bulbs with LED lights - there's a company that makes 12v 75mA bulbs - so presuming I have to take this apart again - I'll replace those bulbs with LEDs


    Questions?

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to SuperBuickGuy For This Useful Post:

    MessiaH2 (09-11-2013)

  6. #5
    Super Swamper
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    Air compressor install
    okay... more stuff
    I'm done with air compressors dying....



    note the Viair v. the Harbor freight.... anyone want to guess where HF stole their idea?



    (side note, I've fixed the HF one - it'll be a good backup or will reside in my truck - which doesn't really get air'd down often)


    organizationally speaking... I need more space - so the first step was clearing space and seeing what I have to work with



    while I was at it, I ran my CB/HAM radio antenna line... note there is no room under the panels on the driver's side



    Amazing how much space they waste here



    air compressor mount.... I'll show where it's going to go Sunday




    I know you'll find this hard to believe (it is a Hummer, after all) but I did try to find these in a non-chrome version



    their new home.... they need to stay non-submerged and not in a direct path of water... this is about the best I've got available



    So I'll have a compressor fitting on the outside of the rail on the passenger side





    eventually, I'll box this with 3/16 or 1/8 plate (rock slider) - so there will be little change this end will get knocked off.... even right now, it's quite a ways into the vehicle - so I'm confident it'll take some work for me to knock it off.





    continuing on with the install
    I made a cap for the end to prevent pressurized water from hitting the end of the air compressor - according to other installs, that will be fine (crossing fingers)



    ran some wiring



    the air outlet is attached to flexible hoses and well zip-tied to a bracket.... I didn't hard mount it because I suspect I won't like that spot.... seriously, I'm considering putting the air outlet inside the car to keep contamination out of the end.





    and run to a relay under the hood



    I still need to run a pressure switch and wire the dash switch... but at least now I can hot wire it and use it.

  7. #6
    Super Swamper
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    So now you're basically up to speed of where I am with this thing.... I'm trying to solve the airbag issue (the airbag light is on because I got winched by a Jeep and now the H3 thinks in rolled over)

    I've put the pressure switches on and replumbed to the rear of the H3 .... pictures on that later.... plus pictures of being pulled by a Jeep (it doesn't happen often)

  8. #7
    Baja
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    If ABS light went on, I believe you have to replace the abs module... But, a good practice for the next time is to pull out the abs fuse when you wheel it... the censors are pretty sensitive and anything can happen. In fact Kyle had his side airbags deployed on the dirt rode for no reason.

  9. #8
    Super Moderator
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    Nice work.
    1998 H1 Open Top
    1994 H1 HMC4
    1992 H1 HMC4 LE
    1990 1025 Armament Carrier


    KJ6JCC

    BlackSheep Hummer Squadron, H1 PsychoSquad

  10. #9
    Super Swamper
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    so here is the situation.... we were demonstrating proper winching techniques at our SAR base....



    at one point, it was close, but it obviously didn't go over

    anyway, there's actually two bits to the air bag system. The roll over sensor, and the air bag controller - we (dealership and I) think it's the roll over sensor; but to find out, I have to replace it then hope it turns the light off

    yes, I should remove the fuse.... but it's one of those 1) I have to remember to do it; 2) I'm hauling strangers as part of my duties in SAR, and it's one of those catch-22s about liability if I pull the fuse.
    If I pulled the fuse, then I'd have to argue that the air bag wouldn't have helped them or would have hurt them.... if I don't pull the fuse and it goes off; then it's manufacturing defect and they can go fight GM.

    In either case, and here's kind of the other bit you might not know - in Washington, if I injure myself, my passengers or my vehicle on a mission - the State picks up the tab for damages... so pulling the fuse when doing a mission wouldn't be a good idea. OTH, when I go out on my own... it would be a good idea - but that requires remembering to do it.

    The State is reimbursing me for the air bag sensor because I was doing a practice (which is, in their eyes, the same as a mission)... so this is merely an inconvenience - but hopefully also good information for the rest

  11. #10
    Bogger
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    GM should cover the cost of the sensor for you and the state, saving you both money. Also, both parts of the system need to be changed out, the sensor and the air bag control module, then the light will go out.
    2008 H3 3.7 Adventure Package.

    35's BFG K02's, T bar crank.

  12. #11
    Super Swamper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
    GM should cover the cost of the sensor for you and the state, saving you both money. Also, both parts of the system need to be changed out, the sensor and the air bag control module, then the light will go out.
    why should GM cover the sensor costs?

  13. #12
    El Diablo
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    I think you are correct in that it is the rollover sensor. From what I heard, there are 3 or 4 sensors within it and you might've tripped two, and they are non-resettable. Kyle had good luck getting his side airbags replaced by the dealer when they went off unexepectedly but I've also witnessed an owner paying for the rollover sensor replacement, in part because the vehicle really did tip that far.

    HVAC lights flashing. Not sure if you disconnected the battery, or if it is just because you disconnected the control unit, but the flashing lights were likely the result of the HVAC calibration that it performs on the temp and air flow doors.

    Compressors - are you going to install any additional heat shield between them and the muffler? Seems the heat could do some damage to the rubber and plastic components, but maybe you are far enough away.

    Transfer case skid plate: did you tap new holes in the frame and bolt that left (tail) end of the skid plate from the top side? Looks like a really flush transition to the crossmember.

    Great write up on everything, thanks!

  14. #13
    Bogger
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    why should GM cover the sensor costs?
    The sensors are to sensitive and can cause the bags to deploy. It happened to me, just go to your dealer tell them that the sensor failed and they need to replace it. Mention how your upset about this because it could have caused the bags to go off and you could have been injured. Im sure they will cover it.
    2008 H3 3.7 Adventure Package.

    35's BFG K02's, T bar crank.

  15. #14
    Street Tire
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    so.....with that which fuse do u pull out?


  16. #15
    Bogger
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    its under the hood just pull the cover off of the fuse box and read the diagram.
    2008 H3 3.7 Adventure Package.

    35's BFG K02's, T bar crank.


 

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