4L60E Issues

Well I posted on here a while back that my tranny was slipping going into reverse. I pretty much cant back up anywhere but on level ground or it wont stay in reverse. No way I can back up going up a hill, sometimes it wont even go into reverse at all.

I added some lucas oil tranny additive, and it did make the tranny shift smoother in forward gears (didnt even notice it was shifting a little hard until I added this stuff in) but it did not help my reverse issue at all.

The tranny was replaced at around 30k miles, according to carfax, but it did not list why the failure. It now has 130k on it, and its been slipping for around a month or so, about the last 2 thousand miles or so. Oh and its a 2007, 3.7L I5 obviously.

I went into certified transmission today to let them check it out. They are about the best place in my area (Omaha) and I figured their free inspection would be worth it.

They hooked a computer to the H3, drove it around, tried backing up, all in all spent around 45 minutes messing with it. They said that it shows low pressure and that there are too many possibilites for the reverse issue for them to want to just break it open and start troubleshooting. They said the low pressure issue is most likely causing damage in other areas as well. They recommend replacing the tranny with one of their re-manufactured ones. They are $2200 for a 3 year warranty, or about $2400 for a 5 year warranty, or around $2100 for a 1 year warranty. Thats if they do the install on the new tranny, I drop it off, pick up the next day with new tranny in it.

They also offer just the tranny for sale for around $1400 for a 3 year warranty, or $1250 for one with a 1 year warranty.

I could care less about the warranty honestly, I want to find the cheapest reliable 4L60E I can and get mine replaced if thats what needs done. I can swap the tranny myself (not an issue for me at all, been turning wrenches my whole life).

I guess my question is what are my other options? Any cheaper places to pick up a 4L60E? Is there a 5 speed auto version of this tranny I could use? (the improved mileage would be nice!) I would love to put in a 5 spd manual, but I'm sure thats out of the budget, and my wife would kill me since she cant drive a stick...

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!

Thanks guys,
Nate

An overdrive granny is going to be $1000 to $1400 to get rebuilt with some upgraded parts to make it last. These trannies can handle the power of the inline five and then some. Don't risk a junk yard tranny. If you trust the place have them rebuild it. I would make sure they are experienced and possible have some in drag cars. Otherwise its a gamble.

Well this place rebuilds them but not for performance cars it anything like that, a basic reman but with whatever updates have been recommended.

I also see that Autozone sells reman trannys for about $1350 or so. I get a military discount there of 10%, and they are offering $20 in gift cards for every $100 spent online. That looks like a decent option. I'll put up a link so you guys can see.

Sent from Nates phone...

Here's the site

http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobi...tomatic-Transmission/_/N-jpprpZ6o2ai?id=16922

Sent from Nates phone...

When I replaced my transmission my preference was to go with a good local shop and get an upgraded rebuild. However, I was stuck in Moab and I didn't know of any good transmission shops. I went with plan B, which was an GM reman as they come with a 100,000 mile warranty if a dealer installs it. Bit more money (not crazy money) but the warranty was worth it to me.

I was wondering if you've done a flush & fill and new filter ?

Chris

I opted for a cheap rebuild on the 700R4 in my '89 K1500 for ~$800.00 which lasted less than a hundred miles. In the past month I did it right and replaced that trans with a Level 2 BTO 700R4. I saved money by replacing this trans myself, and it wasn't easy considering I'm probably twice as old as most of you. Keep in mind you also have to wrestle with an eighty-five pound transfer case on a trans swap in addition to all the other hook-ups. One of the important tests when getting a vehicle with a new OD trans back on the road is verifying line pressure in all the gears. BTO sold me an install kit which includes a pressure gauge to replace the 1/8" pipe plug on the driver's side of the trans. I verified the line pressure before I road-tested my truck. I now have close to a thousand miles on this trans and I'm very happy with it so far.

It's been dealer maintained up until now, I just bought it 2 months ago, fluid looks good and clean so I think it has been serviced.

I'm taking it to another shop today to let them look at it, get another opinion.

Sent from Nates phone...

Well the second shop said the same thing that a rebuild is necessary.

Looks like I'm buying a tranny and swapping them out myself. Anyone got a digital manual on how to swap these out? If not I'll order a Haynes manual for it.



Sent from Nates phone...

I found all the manuals online for the H3, doesnt seem to be too hard of a swap. I'm going to drain and refill the transfer case while I am at it... may as well.
This thing takes 11 quarts with a new transmission!!! Holy crap. Thats a lot of Dex VI. Certified Transmission here in Bellevue will sell me a remanufactured tranny for about $1250 plus tax... so thats what I am going to do. Its going to suck, but itll be fixed and I can move on. I really like the H3 so I gotta get it fixed if I want to keep her on the road.

Is this reman from Certified Transmission one that they built in house with a reman torque converter? And upgraded internals? Or do they just fix whats broken and give it a Dupont overhaul and a flushed out converter. Don't forget a gasket for between the transfer case and transmission. A new seal on the transfer case input shaft at that mileage would be a good idea too. Be carefull not to lose the wire clip retainers on the oil cooler lines where they click into the trans. And flush the cooler with a can of Dr Tranny cooler flush both ways. The trans shop should include a can with the reman unit. Good wrenching.

It's a reman from certified, supposedly everything is gone through and all updates are done.

Thanks for the tips!

Sent from Nates phone...

That's going to be a big job. I looked under my 3T just for grins and realized that this transfer case looks bigger and heavier than the NP241 in my K1500. I was able unbolt the support cross member at the frame and slide the transfer case back (on my K1500), and I unbolted the exhaust system and slid it forward so my Y-pipe would clear before I dropped my 700R4. It looks like you need to drop the trans and the T-case as a unit (on the H3) considering the way they are bolted to the frame. The T-case will tend to roll the trans toward the heavy side so be aware of that when you start unbolting the trans from the back of the engine.

My plan is to put the h3 up on stands and use a motorcycle jack to support the tranny. I've done it this way in the past and it works out nicely.

Is it possible to pull the transfer case off the tranny before I unbolt the tranny? That would make removal a lot easier.

Sent from Nates phone...

Wow. A thousand bucks for R&R seems a bit steep, but probably close the going rate. It sure would be nice just to drop it off and pick her up the next morning all buttoned up nice and warranteed.

I was told that when they replaced my transmission (and later did a service on it to fix a bad part) they had to drain the t-case and drop it.

alrock said:

I was told that when they replaced my transmission (and later did a service on it to fix a bad part) they had to drain the t-case and drop it.

Click to expand...

I believe it. When you're working with heavy parts like a trans and a transfer case under the truck it can be REALLY difficult. Having done this job 2X on my K1500 in the last six months I came up with a procedure that worked for me. I used two trans jacks; one for the trans, and one for the trans case. That transfer case is going to screw you up if you don't support the heavy end because it will twist the two together right off the jack if they both aren't supported correctly. I also used 4X4 blocks to elevate the trans so I could slide it onto the trans jack under the truck. Think safety!

Well the transfer case is out, the crossmember that's directly behind it works great for holding it up so you can get in place then man handle it down.

Tomorrow I'll drop the tranny and the put the new one in and reassemble. Then I get to fill her up and check it out!

Sent from Nates phone...

Well done.

It took me about 4 hours of work today to get that far, just taking my time and going slow.

I do have a broken rubber seal on the aft portion of the forward drive shaft. The boot is torn and all the lube has sprayed out all over... Gotta figure out how to replace it. I don't know why they didn't use a standard U joint there.

Sent from Nates phone...

My propeller shaft CV joint is what has the cracked boot... thank you service manual! I highlighted it in blue in this pic.

Looks like that shaft and joint are all one piece, that can't be cheap. I haven't looked up prices yet, where's the best place to order something like that?

Sent from Nates phone...

Well I checked around, GM only sells the whole driveshaft, $300 or so. The chain autoparts stores want $230 for the replacement CV joint, but I found it online at theautopartsshop for $120 shipped.

I'll just leave the front driveshaft out till the part shows up and then I can put it back in after I replace the CV joint on it. Easy enough.

Sent from Nates phone...

Dorman sells a joint kit to repair that end of the shaft. I believe my cost through work is something like $85. I'm not sure if it is available yet everywhere but I'm going to get one to carry as a spare.The one you found on line may be the same one and $120 shipped is not a bad price.

Amazon has it . Dorman #932-105 for $97 shipped. Fits H3 and colorado/canyons. Small enough to carry as a trail spare.