Rebuilt the lower control arm today

MaxPF helped with some Hummer projects today: rebuilt the passenger side lower control arm (new bushings and ball joint), swapped out the diff, put a new diff mount on the driver's side, swapped in a new axle since my last new axle shot out all of its grease. And put on a new skid plate. And new axle seals. I think we spent about seven hours on these projects.

The LCA isn't really that fun to do. Took about 10-15 minutes to get the forward bushing out of the control arm, and another 30+ to put the new one it. The bushing has rubber at each end that's wider than the LCA opening and the bushing do not easily go through that hole. It was a fight it until you think you're going to break it kind of deal.

The rear bushing sits inside the crossmember. It wasn't likely going to come out using a standard ball joint press, or at least the kit that I rented from O'Reilly. MaxPF had to innovate some solutions with parts from the garage, including Cummings head bolts and other miscellaneous parts. Probably 45 minutes messing with this bushing too.

The ball joint was stubborn but finally came out with an impact and the ball joint press. A nice feature of the OEM replacement is that it has a greasable fitting.

Not sure I would go through this project again. It was a heck of a lot of work getting the LCA out of the truck and back in, including three attempts at adjusting the front bushing to slide in just right into the frame crossmember.

One nice result was that my driver's side diff mount - original and six years old - had not failed. I replaced it anyway. I tore up 2 passenger side mounts and five or six crossmember mounts, but the rubber driver's mount has held up. Perhaps because more of the weight of the diff is on the passenger side, or perhaps the drivetrain torque has something do to with it. I don't know.

The new skid plate was interesting (the black ribbed one, not the aluminum splash shield). There are vent holes in the vertical bend on the passenger side, maybe to allow cooling air for the diff. Also there are two rear mounting holes on the passenger side to accommodate the two different type of OEM crossmembers. And the two leading bolt holes are now both slots vs. previously one was a slot and one was a hole. Makes it a bit easier to move it around and get it lined up properly.

Glad to hear you got everything done

I wish it was everything! But it was what was needed to be done before it went off road again.

Don't you mean a chrome skid plate? And I know I already told you, really really liking the new license plate. Oh and glad you got it all done today

alrock said:

The rear bushing sits inside the crossmember. It wasn't likely going to come out using a standard ball joint press, or at least the kit that I rented from O'Reilly. MaxPF had to innovate some solutions with parts from the garage, including Cummings head bolts and other miscellaneous parts. Probably 45 minutes messing with this bushing too.

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There ain't no "G" in Cummins! Into the penalty box with ya!! :gtfo :wink:

For the record, Alex kicked butt on this project. I struggled trying to get the new bushing in the control arm, with no success. He gave it a whack, and had it done in 15 minutes. I was so ashamed :shame:

Then there was the fact I was hobbling around (bad ankle), my right shoulder and bicep was giving me fits, I couldn't hardly get up off the creeper, and generally just feeling old. I'm not trying to make excuses (ok, yes I am!), but like I said, Alex totally kicked butt. I actually felt pretty useless on this project.

We did learn from our mistakes. If he needs to replace bushings and the ball joint on the other arm sometime in the future, we could probably knock it out in a couple hours tops. If he does without my "assistance", probably an hour or less :thumbs:

So Alex wasn't in his normal supervisor position supplying beer and pizza? Lol

Glad you got it done...ball joints are a PITA. I did them on my brothers jeep and it was a nightmare.

Since when did oem ball joints have grease fittings? I've had one ball joint go out...it was in great shape till the boot tore and it got contaminated. I bet if it was greasable it would still be going strong

Glad to hear ya made head way.
Chris

This replacement ball joint by AC Delco has a greaseable fitting. From the factory there's no greaseable fitting. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QBVKXW/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We did spend a couple of hours "figgering stuff out" but once we had a solution then things would move along. But isn't that how it always works?

I did bushings and the ball joint on my driver upper control arm and that's not something I'd wish on anyone. What a royal pain. Glad you got it knocked out.

Sounds like a chore and a half. Just had my diff bushing and bracket replaced last week.

And more stuff to be done tomorrow. A couple of bolts stripped out on the driver's axle tube so I'm having parts swapped out tomorrow. I also think I have a broken motor mount on the passenger side, so that's up for tomorrow too.

alrock said:

And more stuff to be done tomorrow. A couple of bolts stripped out on the driver's axle tube so I'm having parts swapped out tomorrow. I also think I have a broken motor mount on the passenger side, so that's up for tomorrow too.

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Might want to replace both mounts at the same time. Usually with them once one is gone, the other isn't too far behind

I am not looking forward to this...I am having a bizarre clunk, almost like the steering clunk we always used to get before we got our new steering mods. I pull the skids to see steering and had zero movement as my sister is turning the steering wheel the ball joint catches my eye. As the wheel is turned the metal cup comes through the boot and pinches and bends the cup and the clunk is from the balljoint. Scary ****, especially doing 70 mph with this bizarre steering wheel wobble (assumed it was tires needing to be balanced, I guess not!)

When I installed the rancho lift my original ball joint with 80k miles on it was toast. Instead I used bebes old LCA and swapped it entirely, you know probably a LCA with more abuse and more miles then mine! Her LCA ball joint didnt have any play though. Now almost 2 years later this one is shot. I wheel next weekend and I have to change it out.

Alex, seeing you have done this do you think it would be easier to swap the ball joint on my spare LCA and then change the LCA or just bite the bullet and do it the conventional way you and maxpf did?

I will be using an oriellys ball joint tool. :huh:

abearden said:

I did bushings and the ball joint on my driver upper control arm and that's not something I'd wish on anyone. What a royal pain. Glad you got it knocked out.

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You replaced the upper control arm bushings and ball joint? Where did you get them from?

How many miles on that LCA bushings/ball joint? I know when I do mine (if I do), I will pay the extra 100 per side and get the complete LCAs so all I have to do is R&R. I watched the techs wrestle with that LCA ball joint on a LCA that had about 1000 miles on it; didn't look like fun to me.

I have 113k miles on my original ball joints and bushings

Can't complain about those miles...

Certainly not. I'm very pleased with the life I got. Just not looking forward to the replacement...muscling these things are always a pain. Contemplating having a shop deal with it and do both. I have one on me as a spare I got from Zach

Just the LCA is not bad, that's why if I were doing it, I would price someone else rebuilding it vs. myself just replacing the LCA assembly. Probably be about the same price. But if you got 103K on your balls; I believe Alec has over 110K, so at my 55K, I probably have some time. Probably more time that I will need.

Chris, we were talking about this today and we voted that it's better just to buy the bushings (if needed) and the ball joint. When you do the lower control arm, you still have to press a bushing out of the frame so the amount of work you save by buying a new LCA is diminished. Additionally, you can install an AC Delco ball joint with a zerk fitting so you can keep it greased.

If you are only doing the ball joint, leave the LCA in the truck and do it there. That's what we're going to do on Saturday to Jerry S' truck

It's not that bad of a job, it just takes persistence, a ball joint press and maybe some other long bolts, nuts and spacers to work with the ball joint press to make it work.

Doug, I'm at 129K now and have replaced the passenger side LCA twice - full replacement once, rebuilt the second time. Driver's side has only been done once. Original replacements were probably around the 80K mark, but I'm not sure.