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Outfitter Design Steering Rack Kit

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,315
Location
United States
Since my last steering rack post nearly started a riot, I respectfully ask that the replies (if any) remain on topic and civil. Also, I know there has been a lot of sponsonr / non-sponsor animosity. If you personally only want to support sponsors, that's your choice and I have absolutely no problem with it. I would rather look at the options and spend my money on what I feel is the best value out there, sponsor or otherwise. Sponsors may get the support of the forum, but these guys have put together an awesome product and I think they need to be recognized. Having no ties to any of the companies or the forum itself, I feel there's no reason I shouldn't be able to post my review.

Anyway, I ordered this last week and received it Monday. Shipping and communication was very fast and thorough. The product is very well made, and includes all the hardware. Also included is a tube of Loc-Tite. I thought that was a nice touch. The included instructions were very thorough. There's no point in me doing any kind of a step by step install on this because I couldn't do any better job than what the install sheet shows. I don't consider myself extremely mechanically inclined, however as long as you understand what tools are involved, and what parts are referenced, you can do this yourself. Don't go into it thinking it's as simple as an oil change. It's not. Especially after 5 Midwest winters and many miles of trails, but with patience, it's doable.

Here are just some random notes / observations:

--I was paranoid about making sure the steering wheel to rack orientation was not changed. As mentioned in the instructions (and experienced by others who have had the steering shaft off), if it's not reinstalled in the same position, it will screw up the stability control and/or airbag system and possibly require a trip to the dealer. Since I don't have a locking pin, I spend a lot of time trying to figure out a foolproof way of keeping things aligned.

-- I marked the position of the steering U-Joint to the rack, again trying to make sure nothing got moved. This was largely unneeded though because the steering shaft has a flat on it, NOT splines as are mentioned in the instructions. I don't know if there actually was a change at some point on the rack or whether it was a misprint, but since the shaft had flats (2) instead of splines, you really couldn't screw it up. You could only install the U-Joint to the rack in one of two position; correctly or 180 degrees off. Mine also required liberal use of PB Blaster. It didn't just slide off as easily as the instructions suggested. A result of the winters, I guess.

-- Instructions do give the wrong size for the rack to frame bolts. I believe it says drivers side is 16mm and passenger is 14mm. Correct size is 24mm for driver and 15mm for passenger side. Not a big deal unless you get half way into the project and find you don't have a 24mm socket.

--The driver's side bushings are easy to get out. For anyone who has done the Bebe crossmember mod, you know what a pain that can be to get out. These are cake. No problems. On the bushings themselves, after seeing them, I'm not 100% convinced there is anything wrong with the rubber bushings. Mine showed no evidence of wear. It's a pretty stiff rubber. Almost as hard as poly. That will be debated until the end of time, but the Delrin bushings are all but guaranteed never to fail.

--The PS bracket must be on the rack with the bolts through both halves before you raise it back up. You can't get the bolts in after the fact. Things are tight with the factory strap. Things are even worse with this massive bracket in there. That's my only question I have on the install: How in the world are you supposed to torque that bracket? I could barely get a torque wrench in there with the factory. I see no way to do it with this bracket. If someone wants to post up what wrench and exactly how they position it to torque those, it would be appreciated.

-- I only have 30 miles on it, but there is noticeably more feedback with this kit as would be expected. Some people used to plush supple controls totally disconnected from the road may not like it, but I don't think that's the crowd they are targeting so it's not a big deal. I can't speak for whether or not the handling was improved before and after. I had a fix that worked great for me, so I didn't have any bumpsteer, alignment, or wandering issues to begin with. I just felt it was time for a more professional solution to the issue.


I'm very impressed with the kit. I think it's probably one of the best values out there. Nice job, guys!
 

freeze

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
New England
Thanks for the feedback. The bolt sizes you reference are the thread sizes, not the head sizes, I can see the confusion. That would definitely be a good thing to change for the future. Alignment is highly recommended.
 

digglesworth

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,789
Location
illinois
This thread helps me out a lot cause the OD model was where I'm wanting to send my money. I like that they include the metal sleeves for the drivers side bushings.... I do have a question though... I know this greatly improves the reliability of the rack but how easy would it be to get an extra set of bushings to install in a spare rack for trail use? I need to get some 16mm tie rods for my 06 and this will be something I do with the changeover from 14s.... Hopefully sooner than later.....
 

freeze

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
New England
This thread helps me out a lot cause the OD model was where I'm wanting to send my money. I like that they include the metal sleeves for the drivers side bushings.... I do have a question though... I know this greatly improves the reliability of the rack but how easy would it be to get an extra set of bushings to install in a spare rack for trail use? I need to get some 16mm tie rods for my 06 and this will be something I do with the changeover from 14s.... Hopefully sooner than later.....

We get the kits manufactured in large quantities to save you guys more money, but I can look into it for you.
 

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,315
Location
United States
This thread helps me out a lot cause the OD model was where I'm wanting to send my money. I like that they include the metal sleeves for the drivers side bushings.... I do have a question though... I know this greatly improves the reliability of the rack but how easy would it be to get an extra set of bushings to install in a spare rack for trail use? I need to get some 16mm tie rods for my 06 and this will be something I do with the changeover from 14s.... Hopefully sooner than later.....

Like I mentioned, I can't say with certainty that the DS bushings are 100% necessary. Maybe someone out there agrees with that and only wants the PS bracket. If you find someone who's not necessarily concerned about the DS bushings, maybe you could split the cost. Just a thought.
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,173
Location
massachusetts
Like I mentioned, I can't say with certainty that the DS bushings are 100% necessary. Maybe someone out there agrees with that and only wants the PS bracket. If you find someone who's not necessarily concerned about the DS bushings, maybe you could split the cost. Just a thought.

They are 100% necessary. Ill try to find a pic but when we did the original testing with JUST a clamp and factory style bushings the rack did move unfortunately up slightly on the driverside. The delrin bushing is a different design and firmly prevents the rack from moving.
 

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,315
Location
United States
UPDATE: Went out and ran the trails this evening. Everything is rock solid. The "clunk" from before is totally gone. First time I've wheeled for a while without sounding like something was going to eject itself from the front end!
 

kflips

Well-Known Member
Messages
776
Location
Virginia
compared to a year and a half ago, it is great to have a few possible fixes to this issue. hat is off to those who have worked options. My steering rack is finally getting near its last day. I was considering a combination of the front crossmember bushing upgrade, a new steering rack, and a solid steering rack kit. That said, it is always good to get input on how and how often to refresh weakpoints.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
They are 100% necessary.

Agreed. I think some people are grossly under-estimating the lateral force those bushings have to contend with. If you hold a stock rubber bushing in your hand...squeeze it...fiddle with it...it probably feels very hard and seem adequate for the job it has to do. But in the installed position, I bet they deflect quite a bit. Especially when the driver cranks on the wheel with big 35"x12.50" tires aired-down to 15psi, or if he over-cranks the wheel at full-lock. Whatever the case...glad to hear that there is now a good fix (or fixes) for this famous rack-mount problem.
 

frumaker

Well-Known Member
Messages
455
Location
killeen, tx
Got that rack kit installed. It made a huge difference. The steering is stiff now and very responsive. My wheel doesn't just jump around anymore. Look forward to testing on the trails, maybe this weekend!


FRU
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
UPDATE...

I have a local Hummer buddy that was complaining of his "steering wheel jumping around", when hitting bumps while turning. He said it was most noticeable at higher speeds, during long turns (such as an entrance or exit ramp onto a highway). At only 34,000 miles I suspected it was the rack bushings. I took a quick look and sure enough...there was a 1/4" or so of movement at the clamp. So yesterday I installed one of these Outfitter Design rack kits on this guy's H3. Installation of the kit was easy, however getting the rack in & out from under the truck was a tad involved. I ended up removing all three axle mounting bolts so I could shove the whole assembly out of the way. This allowed me some extra room to get the rack up and into its final resting place. The drivers-side bushings fit perfectly, as did the clamp. I used a large bench vise to press-out the old bushings and tapped the new ones in with a hammer. The whole install took about 3-hours....but only 10 minutes for the bushing swap and clamp install. I used some electrical tape to hold the clamp and bolts to the tube...then after it was in place, I simply pulled the tape off and started the bolts into the crossmember. Its very tight around the clamp, and you have to install the rack with the clamp already on it...so the tape trick worked real good.

After I got done, I could instantly tell a difference in responsiveness and the steering felt better than new. Great product. Fast shipping. No complaints at all.

BTW...this H3 was an 08 Alpha Adv. Pak with a cast-iron front pumpkin (no locker). Perhaps it was a late-production 08 model? Perhaps Alphas came with CI diffs in 08? I'm not sure. But keep your eyes open...apparently there are cast iron diffs in some 08 models (until yesterday, I didn't think so).
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
08H3...I couldn't get a torque wrench on clamp bolts either. But, I got a pretty good feel for proper torque, so I just used a box-end wrench and set my wrist to "click" when it hit 74 in-lbs. :thumbs:

Also...I did not do an alignment afterwards. The owner wants to do a T-bar crank in the near future, so I told him to drive it around for a week or two and we will get it aligned after adding a bumper/winch/crank. No sense burning money on an alignment if you know you're going to do some more work soon.
 
Last edited:

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,315
Location
United States
UPDATE...


BTW...this H3 was an 08 Alpha Adv. Pak with a cast-iron front pumpkin (no locker). Perhaps it was a late-production 08 model? Perhaps Alphas came with CI diffs in 08? I'm not sure. But keep your eyes open...apparently there are cast iron diffs in some 08 models (until yesterday, I didn't think so).
If you remember, when I blew mine, I worked out a deal for a CI carrier. It's from an '08 Alpha. No '08 (Alpha or otherwise), had a front locker, but ALL Alphas did have the CI front carrier. .
 

backcountryislife

Well-Known Member
Messages
858
Location
Dumont, CO
If you remember, when I blew mine, I worked out a deal for a CI carrier. It's from an '08 Alpha. No '08 (Alpha or otherwise), had a front locker, but ALL Alphas did have the CI front carrier. .

Yeah, this is the same diff housing I gave to Chris last year, the CI without the locker. It was from an 08 alpha... sounds like that was the gig for 08.

So glad to see folks with solutions that are working for them. I'm stoked to see some folks get some real trail miles on them to see how they honestly hold up.

Someone needs to come to CO, and let me drive one... after two runs up my back yard trail it'll have to be stamped "PROVEN" as no stock one ever made two trips up the trail!! :D
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
My 08 has a cast iron diff and they called them "offroad" packages on the 08 Alpha at least instead of "adventure" like they used to be on I-5 models.
 

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,315
Location
United States
My 08 has a cast iron diff and they called them "offroad" packages on the 08 Alpha at least instead of "adventure" like they used to be on I-5 models.

If I remember correctly, if you got the leather interior, it was the "luxury package", and then from that you could add the "offroad" package as Hunner said. This was the same for 5's and 8's. My I-5 was an H3 with both the luxury and offroad package according to the sticker. Of course, back to this thread, all of them came with a steering bushing more suited to a Chevy Sonic.
 
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