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  1. #1
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    Functioning H3 factory air intake cover (with snorkel extension upgrade)

    First I'll warn you that the pictures I used are not of the final assembly. I dropped my camera and broke it before I could get the final pictures. I'll make every effort to show where a difference was from the final vs. the pictures. Second is that I will be building and editing this thread as I go along. I will do my best to let you know where the edits are. I removed my set up a couple of different times to see what could be done differently to aid someone in installing this set up from below. You would be better off only installing this once, sealing it up and then forgetting about it. Once trimmed to fit your truck (after the first install), installing a second time becomes much harder. There is nothing left to grab onto to pull it up through the hole. There is no leverage, this makes it a push-pull process 1/16 at a time. Trust me on this one. Install it and forget it.


    My first goal when I started this process was at the very least to move the air intake point away from the nose of the truck and in the process raises it up about 10 inches by putting it under the factory air intake cover. My second goal was to get it out from under the truck without cutting anything if at all possible. I designed the ducts to work and fit in the channels between the fender and fire wall. I did have to cut a strip of metal about 3/4 of an inch by 4 inches long. None of it was braces or structuarl in nature. A 3 inch pre molded 45 degree angle hose flatten and fit through the opening. I ground and smoothed all of the edges on the small amount of metal that I cut. Then, put door edge guards on the exposed edges to be safe. My final goal was to install a snorkel assembly on top of the cover and connect it to the duct work. This would raise the water line up above the windshield, preventing water lock of the engine.


    Observations learned:


    1.) The H3 aftermarket ARB snorkel runs out of the fender and along side the pillar for a reason, cleaner lines of sight and less of a blind spot.


    2.) Making the factory air intake cover function as a water tight snorkel is actually very easy to do. Cutting a small piece of metal out provides a 45 degree path to the underside of the cover. It also provides the cleanest lines of sight while raising the water line ten inches and moves the water entry point away from the nose. The nose of course is the lowerst point of entry and wash over when entering the water. The factory air cover is also rain proof.


    3.) There is just not enough room to create any type of snorkel on an H3 without some type of cutting. Whether it be the fender for the ARB, the entire bracing like on the H1 cap or a strip of metal for the air intake cover with the snorkel attachment. Truth is removing the fender to install ducting and or to cut is really the correct way to do this. I proceeded as if removing the fender is not an option.


    Build sheet:
    1 - aluminum intake tubing 3" OD x 24 $14.27
    1 - silicone 45 degree elbow 3" ID $31.18
    1 - silicone 90 degree elbow 3" ID $32.19
    5 - stainless worm gear clamp 3.5" ID $1.50 @ 7.50
    1 - stainless worm gear clamp 4" ID $2.99 (pack of 2)
    1 - solid 90 degree 3" OD $12.99
    1 - intermediate coupler 4" to 3" $16.99
    1 - tube of sealer/gasket maker $5.99


    Total $107.11


    Here is as close to the final assembly as I have. The difference is that the flat spot in the up tubing in now flatter and the hose clamps are spun around so the tighten points are on the rear edge instead of the back and they face in. I'll try to explain on another picture:





    The factory air intake cover already has vent holes and channeling built into the underside that will provide airflow if a snorkel is not attached:





    The factory air intake cover only clips on. Open the hood and lift up on the front edge of the cover. This will pop the front two clips. Apply a small amount of pressure to the pillar trim away from the rear edge of the cover and pull up on the rear of the cover. This will release the back two clips. Be careful not to pull so hard as to hit the cover on the hood edge and scratch your paint:





    Remover the inner wheel well by removing all of the push clips:





    This is a close up of one of the clips:





    This is the only spot were there is a possible difference between trucks. What you see here is the larger air filter box inlet hose of the AirDoc's system. If you do not have an AirDoc's intake installed on your truck, your inlet will be hard plastic and smaller.





    This shot is between the fender and firewall. It shows the pocket that the H1 style snorkel turns into and then a large hole above it is drilled. For this set up, we will not be using this hole at all:





    This is the main piece that we will be cutting out for this install. By removing it we will open up a channel directly between the fender and the firewall:





    Here is a different view of the same piece. It is directly below the air intake cover once it is removed. It is slightly off center of the top opening:





    In hindsight, I'm not sure this step was needed, but I believe it did make the process of pulling the hose through the opening easier. When I was done the install, the hose was not tight in that corner and I had to fill the gap back in with sealer to make it water tight. If I were to do it again, I think I would have tried to pull the hose through without cutting here:





    Although you can't see it here, I just turned the cutter on end and removed the inner strip of metal:





    This is all that I removed. The small piece is what I removed from the top. You should not have to remove it:





    Here is what it looks like before I smoothed out the edges. Notice that you can see the front wheel off to the right. It is a stright path once you get past the first, short 45 degrees:





    I used touch up paint on any exposed edges. Notice the side 45 degree opening is now the same size as the top opening.





    Touch up paint around the top opening, which you should not have to worry about:





    I ran a small piece if door edge guard over the cut edge to provide a protected edge. It also had an added benefit of making the hose slide in easier:





    Another view, but note how clear the opening is:





    Door edge around the top opening:





    This is the start of the build process. If you look close at the tape it shows 9 inches total. This is wrong. It is 8 inches total. I would take the extra inch off the bottom of the top 45 degree hose. I took it off the 90 degree and it forced the 90 to point down a little. Save the pieces you cut off, as they become your couplers for the front end of the straight pipe to the hard 90 and the other is to the air inlet if you don't have an AirDoc's setup and you are running the stock hard inlet:





    I bought a longer 24 inch stright pipe. 19 inches is all that was need for the straight pipe install. This allowed me to cut a 3 1/2 inch piece off of the end to use as a coupler between the two bent hoses:


    Last edited by 58Bisc; 10-09-2012 at 12:15 AM.
    Victory Red 06 with championship edition hood stripe, custom red & black leather interior, tow package, Monsoon radio, iPod attachment, DayStar 1 inch body lift, 2.5 inch front lift, Bilstein front & rear shocks, Trail Duty extended bump stops, air horn, fender flares with splash guards, General Grabber 315/75/16 tires, GM touring exhaust, GM H3 tips, AirDoc's intake, K&N filter, PCMforless tune, GM UCP, PCSpider diff slider, engine coil spring delete, ported throttle body, GOBI ladder, Thor front bumper/bull bar, 12,500 winch, dual Optima batteries w/Tmax controller, KC lights, color matched grille, BA shock sliders, FOBI stealth roof rack, GM rock sliders w/steps, Hi-Lift jack, drilled & slotted rotors w/cermic pads, SS braded lines, functioning factory air intake cover with snorkel extension. Hunner shock/spring sliders

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  3. #2
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    I used a simple hacksaw to cut the pipe:





    This left very sharp edges. I used a wire wheel to clean it up, but sand paper would work just as well:





    Next comes the flattening of the pipe. For the final fit, I ended up flattening it about a half an inch more then what is seen in any of the pictures. I'll show you in another picture one of the reasons, but it just made installing it from below much easier:





    I used a wood vise to flatten the coupler. It was what I had and it worked very well, but a hammer and some care can achieve the same result:





    I don't have any pictures of the flattened assembly (remember I dropped and broke my camera), so these will have to do:





    Also note that in this picture not only is the pipe not flat yet, but the measurement is off by an inch. It should be at 8 inches from bend to bend:





    There are a couple of items to look closely at in this picture. I ran door edge guard up the inner lip (black edge) and the hose clamps need to be turned around, facing in the hole as well as on the front edge (from this view). This allows for more clearance and the ability to separate the hoses if the need arises without having to remove the 45 degree piece:





    This view is from directy below. In this picture you can see the second reason why I flattened the coupler a little more. Look at the second fender clip being pushed out. I did not see this until I looked at the picture. You can also see the edge guard covering the inner lip:





    There is not a real easy way to get in there. There is only room for one set of arms, but an extra set of hands would help a lot. In this shot I was still forcing everything in. If it does not fit in the channel between the fender and fire wall easily, you need to flatten the coupler more and make sure the clamps are installed correctly. The hose should go all the way up to the top, but not through the hole with little effort. Starting the process of making the 45 degree bent hose through the opening is a different story:





    Here's a shot of the almost completed install. It was at this point that I noticed that the connection between the AirDoc's inlet and the reducer coupler could be pulled off with some force. Both hoses are soft. I believe some sealer in the joint could solve this problem, but I went a different route. If you are running a stock inlet, this should not be an issue.





    I had some 3 1/2 ID PVC pipe laying around, so I cut a 1/2 inch collapse ring out:





    I slid the collapse ring inside the soft inlet hose. The ring is larger then the opening in the firewall and won't push through:





    Then I put the reducer back on and tightened the clamp down. This locked everything into place:





    I had to use a flat screw driver as a guide or ramp from below and then on top while I pushed from below to get the hose to make the bend around the metal opening. Once I got enough through that I could grab it, I pulled it up till the hose 45 sat in place at the 45 degree bend. It kind of popped into pace. The next step was kind of cool. I ran a razor blade around the edge by laying it flat on the door edge guard. The result was a custom compound curve cut that could never be cut by hand. The cut hose sat at the same height as the opening. There was little gaps in three of the four corners. The fourth one was larger, but that was because I had remove metal that you should not have to:





    The first time I did this it looked better. I masked everything off to get clean lines. It also did not take much sealant to water proof it. I ended up removing everything one last time and the hose did not match up cleanly this time. It was late and I had done the process a coupe of times already, so I smeared a finger full of sealant around and called it a day:





    A shot of the duct work assembled outside of the truck. As noted earlier in the thread, the pipes were not as flat as the final product and the clamps on the flat pieces are installed wrong:





    Different angle:





    Last one:


    Victory Red 06 with championship edition hood stripe, custom red & black leather interior, tow package, Monsoon radio, iPod attachment, DayStar 1 inch body lift, 2.5 inch front lift, Bilstein front & rear shocks, Trail Duty extended bump stops, air horn, fender flares with splash guards, General Grabber 315/75/16 tires, GM touring exhaust, GM H3 tips, AirDoc's intake, K&N filter, PCMforless tune, GM UCP, PCSpider diff slider, engine coil spring delete, ported throttle body, GOBI ladder, Thor front bumper/bull bar, 12,500 winch, dual Optima batteries w/Tmax controller, KC lights, color matched grille, BA shock sliders, FOBI stealth roof rack, GM rock sliders w/steps, Hi-Lift jack, drilled & slotted rotors w/cermic pads, SS braded lines, functioning factory air intake cover with snorkel extension. Hunner shock/spring sliders

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    Reserved for snorkel extension pictures...
    Victory Red 06 with championship edition hood stripe, custom red & black leather interior, tow package, Monsoon radio, iPod attachment, DayStar 1 inch body lift, 2.5 inch front lift, Bilstein front & rear shocks, Trail Duty extended bump stops, air horn, fender flares with splash guards, General Grabber 315/75/16 tires, GM touring exhaust, GM H3 tips, AirDoc's intake, K&N filter, PCMforless tune, GM UCP, PCSpider diff slider, engine coil spring delete, ported throttle body, GOBI ladder, Thor front bumper/bull bar, 12,500 winch, dual Optima batteries w/Tmax controller, KC lights, color matched grille, BA shock sliders, FOBI stealth roof rack, GM rock sliders w/steps, Hi-Lift jack, drilled & slotted rotors w/cermic pads, SS braded lines, functioning factory air intake cover with snorkel extension. Hunner shock/spring sliders

  6. #4
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    This same install can be done on the cheap. It is not as heavy duty, but it will work. I used this set up as my proto type.


    $19.99 intake flex hose
    $12.99 90 degree elbow
    $6.00 for four hose clamps
    $4.99 for a coupler to attach to the stock air filter inlet
    or
    $16.99 for a reducer needed for AirDoc's air inlet


    $43.97 or $56.96 total


    Hose to air filter box:





    I flattened out about six inches of the one end of the hose that ran behind the fender and up to the air intake opening:





    Flex hose pulled through the factory opening. At this point, if you put the factory air intake cover back on it will act as a snorkel:





    Snorkel Story - I'll add pictures and finish this piece later, it's getting late...


    I bought a Jeep JK snorkel off eBay. It is a Rugged Ridge part number 17756.07 XHD Modular Snorkel High Mount Kit Wrangler JK 07-11 (3.8L) Fits: Jeep Wrangler JK 2007-2011





    This is what comes with the snorkel and my spare air intake cover:





    This is the channeling of the backside of the air intake cover. In the new location, one of the attachment post and clip gets cut off:





    In this picture you can see where the snorkel is just too far forward. The angle of the snorkel stack is off compared to the H3 pillar by about 3/4 of an inch at the highest point. I'm not sure if I will attempt to heat it and adjust or just leave it as is. The stock Jeep mounting bracket is unusable for our application. If I move the snorkel back, I can bolt it directly to the pillar.





    Bottom side of the snorkel opening. There is a nice thick gasket around the hole:





    Proto type snorkel, still debating if I should bed line the air intake cover to match the snorkel texture or leave it trim coated to match everything else:





    Blurry picture of the proto type snorkel on my H3. The snorkel sat too far away from the windshield pillar. I mounted it in this spot to line the openings up. On the final set up, I will mount the snorkel in the best cosmetic position and create an air channel beneath the cover to line up the openings:





    This project would bring the total snorkel set up choices for the H3 up to four.


    1.) ARB complete snorkel


    2.) H1 cap style home made snorkel


    3.) Functioning factory air intake cover


    4.) Jeep snorkel attached to the air intake cover


    A Sy-Klone pre cleaner can be added to 1, 2 & 4 of these snorkels and like the rest of the options comes down to personal choice. The price varies based off of the size of your engine and snorkel choice.


    This process started out for me to find a snorkel that would work with the I5 engine that did not require cutting. What I have found is that other then the pre cleaner size, there is no difference based off of engine. All of the snorkel options above should work with both H3 engine options. I also was not able to do it without cutting. If you want a snorkel on an H3, you will be cutting. On the ARB it's the fender. The H1 cap it's the bracing. The air intake and/or snorkel it is the lip.
    Victory Red 06 with championship edition hood stripe, custom red & black leather interior, tow package, Monsoon radio, iPod attachment, DayStar 1 inch body lift, 2.5 inch front lift, Bilstein front & rear shocks, Trail Duty extended bump stops, air horn, fender flares with splash guards, General Grabber 315/75/16 tires, GM touring exhaust, GM H3 tips, AirDoc's intake, K&N filter, PCMforless tune, GM UCP, PCSpider diff slider, engine coil spring delete, ported throttle body, GOBI ladder, Thor front bumper/bull bar, 12,500 winch, dual Optima batteries w/Tmax controller, KC lights, color matched grille, BA shock sliders, FOBI stealth roof rack, GM rock sliders w/steps, Hi-Lift jack, drilled & slotted rotors w/cermic pads, SS braded lines, functioning factory air intake cover with snorkel extension. Hunner shock/spring sliders

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    good thread thanks for the info.

    I've been wondering if that snorkel for the jeep would fit on my rig in that location and you've answered my questions nicely.


    2009 Hummer H3T Lux with Adventure package which includes front and rear lockers, 4.56 gears, hill start asst and so much more. Mods I've done so far; Daystar Dash tray, 2" keys in the front,and 1" Body lift. 1" shackle lift in rear, 35" Toyo Mt's, Bilstein 5100 Shocks, Trail Duty Extended Bump Stops in front, OEM UCP with Thor Parts skid plates, Genright Offroad limiting straps on the rear, Rubicon Express sway bar quick disconnects on rear, Rolling Lock Bed Cover, RR Sliders, Steel craft Brush guard, XRC 8 winch, smittybilt synthetic winch line, Hunner Skids, Rigid industries lights, custom CB antenna mount and Cobra 75 WX ST CB Radio.

  9. #6
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    Here is where I ordered my supplies from:

    https://intakehoses.com/Merchant2/me...16a14f76270cc&

    Or you can do a Google search on intake hoses.
    Victory Red 06 with championship edition hood stripe, custom red & black leather interior, tow package, Monsoon radio, iPod attachment, DayStar 1 inch body lift, 2.5 inch front lift, Bilstein front & rear shocks, Trail Duty extended bump stops, air horn, fender flares with splash guards, General Grabber 315/75/16 tires, GM touring exhaust, GM H3 tips, AirDoc's intake, K&N filter, PCMforless tune, GM UCP, PCSpider diff slider, engine coil spring delete, ported throttle body, GOBI ladder, Thor front bumper/bull bar, 12,500 winch, dual Optima batteries w/Tmax controller, KC lights, color matched grille, BA shock sliders, FOBI stealth roof rack, GM rock sliders w/steps, Hi-Lift jack, drilled & slotted rotors w/cermic pads, SS braded lines, functioning factory air intake cover with snorkel extension. Hunner shock/spring sliders

  10. #7
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    Re: Functioning H3 factory air intake cover (with snorkel extension upgrade)

    Wow, great write up!

  11. #8
    Mall Crawler

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    Functioning H3 factory air intake cover (with snorkel extension upgrade)

    Great job and thanks for the indepth write up. I'm sure there will be some 3 owners that will jump on this mod
    2005 H2 Adventure

  12. #9
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    Functioning H3 factory air intake cover (with snorkel extension upgrade)

    Same exact build except I got my pipe at a muffler shop and they bent it for me.. I also cut my fender just a little deeper! All I needed was one 90 degree elbow and a 4" into 3" adapter!! I also used a heat gun to bend the snorkel to follow the lines of the truck!
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  14. #10
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    Re: Functioning H3 factory air intake cover (with snorkel extension upgrade)

    Looks great. I do have one concern though. Since our gas engines have a lot of electrical parts, ignition coils, spark plugs, and other wiring, isn't it a little pointless to lift the air intake that high above the engine? How long will the electrical parts survive if a long deep water crossing is necessary?

    P.S. i know that in a diesel engine its different because it doesn't have all the same electrical stuff

    Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
    -2009 H3 Alpha/Adv||SAS/SOA
    -2008 H3 Alpha-RIP

  15. #11
    Bogger
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    Functioning H3 factory air intake cover (with snorkel extension upgrade)

    Well that's why there is electrical grease lol j/k
    There are more reasons to raise ur breather than just water crossing.. Living in Texas it's extremely hot.. By raising the breather higher ur bringing in colder cleaner air not 200+ degree air from the asphalt and engine!!! Cooler air equals better mileage and HP!! Plus how often do u go so deep ur messing with plugs and electrical... The stock breather is just a few feet off the ground!!!!

  16. #12
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    Re: Functioning H3 factory air intake cover (with snorkel extension upgrade)

    I know the likely hood of going that deep is small and im all for raising the air intake but it just makes me wonder haha

    Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
    -2009 H3 Alpha/Adv||SAS/SOA
    -2008 H3 Alpha-RIP

  17. #13
    Super Swamper


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    In my case if you are just out messing about and decide to make a quick detour behind some others but you get a wheel off to one side of where they were, in a flash you can dunk the corner of the vehicle where the OEM intake is and trash an engine as it sucks in water and hydrolocks. That can happen more easily than stopping long enough to flood the interior or fuse box. Neither would be good.
    I "almost" did that in this first picture and decided the snorkle was a cheap investment as opposed to the alternative.
    I also run many dusty dirt roads, some have gravel. The raised intake rather down in the dust being thrown up in the wheel well even though behind the liner and with a pre-cleaner is better for the life of the engine as well as cooler air not off ground, black asphalt or concrete.
    I guess it's a personal choice depending how often you go offroad or travel dirt whether or not it is pointless.




    Last edited by Hunner; 10-17-2012 at 06:25 PM.

  18. #14
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    Functioning H3 factory air intake cover (with snorkel extension upgrade)

    Excellent point Hunner!!!

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    Just getting the opening up to the top of the fender, or factory air intake cover would be a good compermise. Without adding the rest or the snorkel. Looking at Hunner's picture and picturing the factory intake opening seems a little scary.


 

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