• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

Speed Bleeder Screws

zebra

Well-Known Member
Messages
115
Location
cold & windy
I had Russell speed bleeder screws on my GMC & Corvette, and they made brake flushes a cinch. Just trying to confirm the right ones for the H3.

Russell's website only goes up to 2006 models for most vehicles, but the '06 H3 is listed as using part# 639560. Cross-referencing GMPartsDirect, it looks like all H3s (06-10) used the same brake bleed screws (GM part# 11610179), so I'm just wanting to confirm our 2009 should therefore use the same Russell part number.
 
Last edited:

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,442
Location
Scottsdale
I don't know the part numbers, but most parts did not change in the H3 during the entire production run. You should be safe with that number.
 

zebra

Well-Known Member
Messages
115
Location
cold & windy
thanks for the reassurance. i did notice a few different places listed the same screws (10mm x 1.0, by the way) for all the years... and it turned out to conveniently be the same as the ones i need for my dodge, so i got to simply order 4 pairs to upgrade both trucks.

SummitRacing & eBay seem to be the only places with them in stock right now, though. Summit should have them here next week.
 

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
857
Location
WI
Are those the spring-loaded ball-baring bleeder screws?

I bought some like that but never tried. Glad to hear they work.
 

zebra

Well-Known Member
Messages
115
Location
cold & windy
Are those the spring-loaded ball-baring bleeder screws?

I bought some like that but never tried. Glad to hear they work.

sure are. they work the same as the remote clutch bleeders (which are more helpful in stuff like camaros & corvettes than the trucks where the slave bleeder's right there easy to reach).
Specs-247x247.jpg
 

H3Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
505
Location
LUXEMBOURG in EU
They do work very good and i'm glad that I've changed all on my H3 4 years ago, it was the same time i changed all break lines to. Had a big leak on front end do the rust, so i did them all new. Super happy with them.
 

zebra

Well-Known Member
Messages
115
Location
cold & windy
glad they've been good for you. summit called yesterday to confirm my order, so hopefully they should be here next week.
i was really happy with the ones i put on the corvette.
 

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
857
Location
WI
Probably be a good idea to put a rubber cap over the bleeder screw ...and maybe a squirt of WD40 or a few drops of oil inside (to keep the spring/ball from rusting).

I always shoot some carb cleaner in my vehicle's bleeder screws when I'm done with brakes, to clean out brake fluid. Then after it evaporates, do the above. Keeps things clean for future work.
 
Last edited:

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
857
Location
WI
The mechanical abilities of direct descendants of Neanderthals are often questionable ...:shifty:. Some of them might be better off sticking to stringing stones to a wood stick ...lol.
 
Last edited:

zebra

Well-Known Member
Messages
115
Location
cold & windy
warmed up a bit today (40s), so i decided to be a little productive in the garage.

in addition to an oil change, 5-tire rotation, and warshing the truck, i installed the new bleed screws & flushed the brakes. hardest part of the job was keeping the drain tube & collection can steady (because it was still just cold enough for the tubing to be stiff & not want to stay put).

after finishing the RR, it wasn't until halfway through the LR that i realized the brake pedal has "two stages" for lack of better description... as in you push half pedal normally, feel solid resistance, but then can push the rest of the way down. is that something to do with ABS? neither front felt that way (both went smoothly to the floor), but i recalled the RR also having that half-pedal resistance spot - i just never pushed through it.
 

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
857
Location
WI
A little off-topic, but something kind of interesting:

I blew a rusty brake line on a VW car. Long story short the MC went dry, there was air trapped in the ABS that I couldn't get out. Pedal went to the floor but ya could pump them up. A lot of scanners can't bleed older VW brakes. I didn't want to buy the VW software. On advice from some very knowledgeable guys they suggested take it out on the road and stomp on the brakes real hard to activate the ABS. I did it, several times. Put wheels on the gravel on each side of vehicle. Yep it worked! Self bled. Never been better.

Normally I bleed with a scanner, but that's an interesting trick to consider if you don't have a scan tool, or your vehicle isn't in your scan tool's software.
 
Top