Best crossmember bushing and outboard bushings

[Dudley]

Been looking for good crossmember bushing. Somewhere between the soft polyurethane bushings from India. Are OEM bushings really that bad? I do little off-roading but do drive on dirt fire roads and in heavy snow. There is such a difference between OEM around $43 and heavy duty $289. I like the luxury car ride but would like to tighten up front end tracking. Thank you for your advice. My h3 needs some refreshing but I’m not much of a mechanic. Sorry if this post is in wrong area but I can’t seem to get it right.

[Happy Hummer]

I purchased the ones from Amazon / eBay a few years ago.
It is fine for the kinda of driving I do. Probably similar to what you do.
As far as side ones have no information about them.

[alrock]

You did a good job with the post.

The weaker bushing is the rear one supporting the front diff. I've torn a brand new OEM one on the first off road trip. It's a lot easier to replace if you can buy a whole crossmember with the bushing inside vs. removing the old bushing, but that can be hard to find. The side bushings fail less often and are challenging to replace if you don't have the tools/experience. You have to remove the CV axles to remove the side bushings.

Upgrading to a harder bushing won't affect ride quality - at least not to the point that you'd actually notice.

[JPaul]

If you can't get a Scorpworks (odds are not in your favor) then truly you're best option is to get the Outfitter Design bushings and do it once and be done with it forever. It's not mechanically challenging of a job, just tedious.

Pressing out the side bushings can be done using an air impact hammer (totally worth the purchase, even for a cheap one). They popped right out for me after fighting with them using other methods. Alternatively if you don't have a compressor or access to one you can get a set of punches and a hammer and knock them out that way, though it will be more work of course.

The center bushing is more of a pain since you do not take out the outer sleeve and instead need to remove the rubber portion. Honestly a large enough hole saw to cut out the majority of the bushing will go a long way, then you can burn the rest out using a torch or just a coarse wire wheel to clean it out. You also need to salvage the inner sleeve, you can just burn the rubber off again or cut of as much as possible and then wire wheel it clean.

Then the new bushings just pop right in with minimal effort. Put it all back together and never touch it again. Make sure to properly torque the bolts when re-installing the crossmember, they go in a lot tighter than one might think. You won't really notice any increase in noise/vibration with how much sound proofing the H3's have.