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So...exactly how much atf +6 should the transfer case have in it lol?

Happy Hummer

Happy Hummer

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:)
The early 2006-2007 H3 have a rather cryptic and spooky phrase about the fill plug being to low when manufactured and it'll damage it blah, blah...
So, there in lies the question... My 2007 H3 had the fluid changed (by lil ol me) several weeks ago, say 2 mons. easy but this cryptic message in the book and on the web has me bothered. I used 1 qt. + .75 qt. Taking into account a few ounces in the pump and seepage I got at least 1.5 qt. or more in there. But is the drain hole to low from the get go?:emb:

It has me bugged. I'm seriously contemplating lifting the back end a few inches and pumping in another 4-8 oz.
Just feel really uncomfortable with the current amount..:roll:
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

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I recall hearing something about adding additional fluid through the VSS hole. Might also be able to add more via the vent hose. This would take hours, and probably require you to rig up a temporary funnel feed. Pour the additional fluid into the funnel and leave to slowly drain overnight.

For what it’s worth…I’ve never been able to get two full quarts into ANY H3 t-case.
 
Happy Hummer

Happy Hummer

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Yep 1.6 that is not in question. The fill plug being correct is though. If it is designed by Gm to low to begin with or is it correct? That's the question...
Because if it's not the right placement then why the "add through vss hole"?
 
alrock

alrock

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Did you read the other thread? Kinda why I posted it. Post #3. Early transfer cases were not properly designed and could not be filled properly unless you added fluid through the speed sensor hole. Later transfer cases could be filled properly just by using the normal fill hole.
 
Happy Hummer

Happy Hummer

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Yes sir. See my manual came with the statement in the pages lol. It's an earlier 2007 build. That's why I asked. But hey I'm going to verify it because a T case damaged would be a very undesirable thing.
 
T

TJB63

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4Speed is correct, You need to remove the VSS once you topped off the Transfer Case itself and add additional fluid. There should be a sticker on your Transfer Case telling you this and how much to add.
If memory serves, it applies to 06-07. The later models did away with the need to remove the VSS I believe, at least that's what I recall. I just did my 06 and removing the VSS was required.
 
J

JPaul

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To make it easier to fill the t-case (and other similarly hard to get to parts) go get yourself a cheap 1 or 2 gallon garden sprayer (the kind with the hose and wand) and just take the wand off the hose. Now you have a pressurized vessel with fill tube. Pour fluid into the sprayer (can even pre-measure to make sure you're putting in the right amount), put the hose in the fill hole, and start pumping up the tank to force the fluid in. Much easier than trying to either pour it in or use a hand pump.
 
J

JPaul

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4speedfunk said:
I always fill t-cases on the workbench before I put em back in the truck.
[emoji23]
Click to expand...

While this is definitely the easiest time to fill anything, I really don't recommend pulling your tcase every time you need to change the fluid. Unless you're a masochist, then feel free. :giggle:
 
Happy Hummer

Happy Hummer

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So, lol! the saga continues ...
Was over at Bobs the oil guy web site and they were really hammering it about the correct fluid to substitute and blah, blah, blah. The thing is there are some real egg heads out there and some actually seem to chemically know there stuff. The topic was long. A nap could have been had "it should of been ". Ultimately I chose to go with GM#88861800. Two quarts of the grape juice GM stipulates in the 2007 users manual.
Now personally I think it is probably just Dex6 in a MT jug but the aforementioned egg heads say otherwise. I guess under chemical analysis the two fluids are not alike.
The 88861800 is more closely related to Dex II III . Go figure. It did not seem any thicker or goopier. Nor did it smell or look any different.

Oh well! I chalked the Dex6 up to a flush and fill.
 
alrock

alrock

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In relying on the owner's manual for specifications, note that the printed manual may get superseded by the electronic bulletins and standards that GM produces. For example, when the 2007 manual was printed Dex VI was not included as it had not yet been certified for the BW transfer case so an older spec was used. Once Dex VI was certified the spec for H3s changed.

Not that there's any issue going with the fluid you chose but I just wouldn't have the owner's manual be the deciding factor in every instance.
 
4speedfunk

4speedfunk

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I feel the BW4493/94 needs frequent oil changes…regardless of the fluid. When I say frequent, I mean every 10k-15k. It seems very prone to wear and the fluid fills up with metal particulates very quickly (compared to other t-cases). Chain stretch, case rub-thru, loose snubbers, plastic forks, etc. all contribute to dirty fluid.

Borg-Warner cases use an internal oil pump. On the end of the pickup tube, it has a fine screen to prevent shavings & dust from entering the pump. This screen is prone to clogging, and over time this will slowly decrease the effectiveness of the pump. Eventually the pump becomes useless and lubrication is done solely by slinging (like most traditional t-cases). Obviously frequent oil changes will extend the life of the screen and pump. Nobody seems to talk about this, choosing to debate the fluid type itself…rather than the clogging of the screen. If your t-case has been neglected, and you suspect there is a 100k miles on the fluid…the screen will be clogged, and it should be replaced.

https://images.app.goo.gl/q2hrfpjKfcfeWghNA

The BW4493/94 also has an internal magnet to catch loose particulate. However that only works with steel. Most of the loose particles in the fluid are non-ferrous (magnesium, aluminum, or plastic). So the magnet’s effectiveness is certainly questionable. Next time you change your fluid, drain it into a clean pan and toss a magnet into it…you’ll see what I mean. The fluid is often filled with shiny metal dust, and it does not stick to a magnet.

Unfortunately the case must be opened to clean/replace the screen and magnet. I have cracked open several H3 t-cases only to find the screens completely collapsed (sucked flat) and choked with metal dust.
 
Last edited:
Gpcalero

Gpcalero

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4speedfunk said:
I feel the BW4493/94 needs frequent oil changes…regardless of the fluid. When I say frequent, I mean every 10k-15k. It seems very prone to wear and the fluid fills up with metal particulates very quickly (compared to other t-cases). Chain stretch, case rub-thru, loose snubbers, plastic forks, etc. all contribute to dirty fluid.

Borg-Warner cases use an internal oil pump. On the end of the pickup tube, it has a fine screen to prevent shavings & dust from entering the pump. This screen is prone to clogging, and over time this will slowly decrease the effectiveness of the pump. Eventually the pump becomes useless and lubrication is done solely by slinging (like most traditional t-cases). Obviously frequent oil changes will extend the life of the screen and pump. Nobody seems to talk about this, choosing to debate the fluid type itself…rather than the clogging of the screen. If your t-case has been neglected, and you suspect there is a 100k miles on the fluid…the screen will be clogged, and it should be replaced.

https://images.app.goo.gl/q2hrfpjKfcfeWghNA

The BW4493/94 also has an internal magnet to catch loose particulate. However that only works with steel. Most of the loose particles in the fluid are non-ferrous (magnesium, aluminum, or plastic). So the magnet’s effectiveness is certainly questionable. Next time you change your fluid, drain it into a clean pan and toss a magnet into it…you’ll see what I mean. The fluid is often filled with shiny metal dust, and it does not stick to a magnet.

Unfortunately the case must be opened to clean/replace the screen and magnet. I have cracked open several H3 t-cases only to find the screens completely collapsed (sucked flat) and choked with metal dust.
Click to expand...


Damn, great information and thanks for sharing that with us. I just changed my fluid a few months ago on my t-case, but I'll be sure to replace the screen with a new one and inspect it for non-ferrous dust next time!
 
Happy Hummer

Happy Hummer

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Yes, I would have to agree about the T-Case design. As, I'm just getting done rebuilding a NP231J T-Case in my 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ and they literally could be kiss n cousins lol!
The same kinda design with the filter screen and magnet. Problem is that any ferrous contaminates (4speedfunk) go to the magnet and as soon as the layers get to thick it allow the rest just to float. This is coupled with the build up of black RTV , plastic, aluminum, magnesium, etc. So, I agree one hundred thousandth percent.

The worst part is there is literally no way to tell unless you drop your socks and grab...em your socket! Because just as you stated the T-Case has to be split. I'm into my NP231J for quite a penny now as I had to do a total rebuild. I'm looking for the rear output aluminum housing and funky dread keeper C ring. Mine is trashed!

I do not agree how ever that multiple fluid changes will rectify this issue as the crap stuck to the filter will not dislodge itself willingly. I would imagine maybe running diesel #2 thru the transfer case while on jacks and cycling the 4wd system could possibly dislodge some of the build up but you'll be rebuilding the case for sure than haha.
 
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