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  1. #1
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    Any Non-Greasable Front U-Joints Avaialable?

    Not looking to start a debate on greasable vs. non-greasable, but was wondering if anyone makes a non-greasable front U-Joint for the H3. If there is, I can't find one in any parts catalog. Just trying to find out if something out there is available that might not necessarily be listed for the H3. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Rockauto has the "lifetime" greased u-joints, but they are not cheap ($70 plus shipping):

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...312&cc=1441261

    Considering the CV probably needs to be replaced as well if your front u-joint went out then you're looking at another $160 for the Dorman CV (I don't think I would trust the cheapo $70 CV's for anything more than a trail emergency spare) you're already looking at around $250, plus the time to replace the joints. Might as well just buy a whole new OEM shaft for $300 and be done with it:

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...41261&jsn=1331


    Otherwise just go with the cheaper $20 grease-able u-joints and make sure you hit it with grease periodically. There's really no difference between the two unless you're bad at doing regular basic maintenance. Then you'll want the non-greasable u-joints. Only reason auto manufacturers do the non-greasable these days is people are generally terrible at properly maintaining their vehicles.

    Honestly if you take it offroad much and especially into mud/water then the greasable u-joint will be a better option for you long term since you can flush any crud/water out when putting new grease in. With the non-greasable u-joints you don't have that option. The seals are pretty much exactly the same between the two so it's not like the non-greasable one is more impervious to crud/water, it just has much more expensive grease that can better handle that kind of thing, but if the seal goes bad or too much water/dirt get in then it's toast.
    Last edited by JPaul; 06-04-2021 at 02:17 PM.
    2008 H3 Alpha

    "Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - General John Stark

    N1JPA

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  4. #3
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    Have you verified that's the right part? Rock Auto says that's an OSR joint. Front is an ISR. Generally their info is pretty accurate, but nothing's infallible.

  5. #4
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    Any Non-Greasable Front U-Joints Avaialable?

    Greaseable u-joints have an internal x-passage drilled thru the center of them in both directions. This is to allow the grease to travel from the zirk (at the intersection of the “x”), out to the four bearing cups. Because they’re hollow, greaseable joints are weaker. Non-greaseable joints are solid. That’s the reason off-roaders tend to prefer non-greasable ones.

    It takes a lot to snap a healthy driveshaft u-joint (hollow or solid) and I rarely see them break due to shear force. Most failures I have seen are due to lack of lubrication and/or overheating...usually because the joint is dry, old, or installed improperly. I commonly find crushed or missing rollers inside cups...a sure sign that a caveman installed it.

    Knuckle u-joints (solid axles) take a pounding and they almost always break at full lock, when the stresses are greatest. I always use solid joints at the knuckles, where brute strength is more important than serviceability.

    A solid Spicer 1310 might fit. Here are the dimensions to compare against the stock joint...
    https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p41...eri.html#photo
    Last edited by 4speedfunk; 06-07-2021 at 04:38 AM.

  6. #5
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    Had new ujoints installed on my H2 last year. The front one failed on the interstate about a month later. Now I know why. Caveman!

    Sent from my SM-A516V using Tapatalk

  7. #6
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    Follow up...

    A 1310 will not work in the stock driveshaft. This is because it uses snap rings at the ends of the cups to hold it in place. Dimensionally it fits...but the stock shaft needs an identical joint, except with inboard c-clips. Stock H3 joint is 3.220” across, 1.062” cup diameter, with inboard c-clips. Go to Spicer and plug in these dimensions and it will give you part numbers for serviceable and sealed versions.
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    Last edited by 4speedfunk; 06-10-2021 at 08:33 AM.

  8. #7
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    After further investigating...Here's what I found:

    AC Delco #45U0131 (greaseable)
    Moog #445 (greaseable - standard duty)
    Moog #225 (greaseable - super strength)

    I tried to find a Spicer joint but, I do not trust their application listing for the H3. They list #5-1310x as being the non-greaseable version, however it is also listed as having outboard snap rings (which won't fit the stock shaft). So I don't know what the correct number is for a Spicer replacement.

    The Moog details show the #225 joint as having "greaseable caps". This is a great idea because there is no internal passage to weaken the joint. Also, all of these joints have (2) smooth cups for bolting to the front axle yoke, and (2) grooved cups for inboard snap rings at the shaft. I think the #225 is probably the best option around, and its super affordable...
    https://drivcat.com/overlays/part-de...versal%20Joint

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08H3 View Post
    Have you verified that's the right part? Rock Auto says that's an OSR joint. Front is an ISR. Generally their info is pretty accurate, but nothing's infallible.
    I couldn't remember which style it was and Rock auto has both types listed for the front. Here is the ISR version:
    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=2392&jsn=1326

    Both have gone up in price since I first replied, the ISR is now $61 and the OSR is $78??
    2008 H3 Alpha

    "Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - General John Stark

    N1JPA

  10. #9
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    I think you could put together a Spicer joint by buying two and swapping caps, but there's no point since JPaul found the answer! Part of the problem is that all the online parts dealers used to have excellent exploded diagrams and part numbers for just about any GM vehicle. Now they almost all suck. I used to use GMPARTSDIRECT.COM to look up parts even if I didn't end up buying it from them, but now there parts search sucks. Nalley is about the best left and it's not as good as it used to be.

    A little more background of why I was searching and a couple things I learned. Even though I said initially I wasn't looking to debate greaseless vs. greased, I have personally found no real difference in the two as far as longevity, and if it saves me from crawling around and having dirt and grime falling in my face every few thousand miles, I am all for it. Just as a bit of "proof", my H3 still has the original U-joint at the TC on the rear prop shaft. It is greaseless and now has 290,000 miles on it. I agree, that's not normal for any joint, but kind of says to me being greasable may not be as critical as some people believe. Opinions vary, and that's cool.

    The dust boot on the CV finally bit the dust and I got a really good deal on the whole assembly that it didn't make sense to buy the replacement CV. It had been on the shelf still wrapped up for a couple years and I assumed it was a greased U-Joint since that's all that seemed to be available. I intended to replace it with a greaseless one before I put it in. I unwrapped in and was pleasantly surprised that it was greaseless. When I went to put it in, it was about 1/16" too wide on one axis. I figured there was probably a needle bearing in the end of the cap. There was, but still another was missing. After digging through the grease reservoir, I found the last one and put it back together. Was not happy with the quality control there, but at least it wasn't something I had to try to explain why I needed to return a part I bought two years ago. What I DID find, is that the needle bearing in the GM joint are considerably smaller than in the Spicer. Does that mean it's going to be less durable? Who knows. Assuming the caps are the same thickness, it's possible the GM cross is actually larger. Really don't know. I wish I would have measured the two, but didn' think of it until after the fact.

    Anyway, thanks JPaul. Appreciate your finding that part number. Just out of curiosity, how did you find it? I searched for 2008 H3 on Rock Auto and it did not come up. Did you search a different year?

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4speedfunk View Post
    A


    I tried to find a Spicer joint but, I do not trust their application listing for the H3. They list #5-1310x as being the non-greaseable version, however it is also listed as having outboard snap rings (which won't fit the stock shaft). So I don't know what the correct number is for a Spicer replacement.
    5-3213X is the correct Spicer joint. It is greasable.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08H3 View Post

    Anyway, thanks JPaul. Appreciate your finding that part number. Just out of curiosity, how did you find it? I searched for 2008 H3 on Rock Auto and it did not come up. Did you search a different year?
    Nope, I just browsed to the 2008 Hummer H3 via their menu. I've found their search itself to be less than helpful unless you have a specific part number already you want to look for. I went into the 3.7L then Drivetrain then Universal Joint. Has them all listed right there.
    2008 H3 Alpha

    "Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - General John Stark

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