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H3 Alpha Cammed Overheating Issue.

StandoutAlpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
67
Location
Minnesota
**Minnesota weather**
My H3 Alpha Cammed runs cool in the winter with the temp gauge needle slightly under halfway line my Scanguage II reads 180-190*F at that point doesn't matter with the heat on or stop and go traffic or idling it'll never go past the halfway line.
Runs hot in the summer with temp gauge needle at halfway line but creeps up to 3/4 line on stop and go traffic or idling my Scanguage II reads 200-240*F at that point and even to the RED-LINE but with the AC on my Scangauge II reads 250*F at that point ENG HOT and AC OFF light comes on cluster. Without AC on It still reads high 200*F on hot days.

Here's the thing I did and replace 5,000 miles ago..

-New ACDelco Coolant 50/50 mix
-New temperature sensor/sender
-New water pump
-New 2 row all aluminum radiator
-New 187*F thermostat
-Took out the oem factory clutch fan and did a electric fan conversion onto the radiator behind it

E-Fan Specs
-Single 12inch 10 blades Puller electric fan is rated at 2150CFM 12volt 80wattage 12.70amps

Is my e-fan to weak? For sure it pulls less air in than the clutch fan I think that might be the cause
People that has a E-fan on their Hummer which one did you go with??
I prefer the E-fan over the clutch fan why because----> less noise, little more mpg, little more hp/tq
If nothing can solve the problem im guessing the clutch fan is going back on
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,173
Location
massachusetts
**Minnesota weather**
My H3 Alpha Cammed runs cool in the winter with the temp gauge needle slightly under halfway line my Scanguage II reads 180-190*F at that point doesn't matter with the heat on or stop and go traffic or idling it'll never go past the halfway line.
Runs hot in the summer with temp gauge needle at halfway line but creeps up to 3/4 line on stop and go traffic or idling my Scanguage II reads 200-240*F at that point and even to the RED-LINE but with the AC on my Scangauge II reads 250*F at that point ENG HOT and AC OFF light comes on cluster. Without AC on It still reads high 200*F on hot days.

Here's the thing I did and replace 5,000 miles ago..

-New ACDelco Coolant 50/50 mix
-New temperature sensor/sender
-New water pump
-New 2 row all aluminum radiator
-New 187*F thermostat
-Took out the oem factory clutch fan and did a electric fan conversion onto the radiator behind it

E-Fan Specs
-Single 12inch 10 blades Puller electric fan is rated at 2150CFM 12volt 80wattage 12.70amps

Is my e-fan to weak? For sure it pulls less air in than the clutch fan I think that might be the cause
People that has a E-fan on their Hummer which one did you go with??
I prefer the E-fan over the clutch fan why because----> less noise, little more mpg, little more hp/tq
If nothing can solve the problem im guessing the clutch fan is going back on

Keep the clutch fan. I am not sure what the specs on the H3 mechanical fan are but mechanical are usually 5-8k cfms. I know some newer vehicles are electric only but they are a complete cooling system designed around specific OEM electric fans. Meaning the grill, any ducts diverting air up through engine bay, radiator size, shroud etc are all working as a system to cool. Is your cam stock stall? A higher stall usually leads to more heat with torque converter and the stock transmission cooler is part of the radiator. I have read several threads of H3s with not stock stall having over heating issue in summer.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,442
Location
Scottsdale
Considering the stock setup is typically barely adequate, new fans that pull less air is likely going to be an issue. Can you convert the e-fans to pusher fans? Moving to front, flipping the blades, reversing the circuits may all be needed.
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
That's interesting...

I run the Supermodulation dual v8 fan on my cammed H3T Alpha and no overheating issues....


.... in the Florida summer lol.


Not sure what the CFM specs are on it, but I do have an ECP 2" radiator and run distilled water and Redline Water Wetter for coolant too.

Gotta be something else here at play, I'm thinking.
 

StandoutAlpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
67
Location
Minnesota
That's interesting...

I run the Supermodulation dual v8 fan on my cammed H3T Alpha and no overheating issues....


.... in the Florida summer lol.


Not sure what the CFM specs are on it, but I do have an ECP 2" radiator and run distilled water and Redline Water Wetter for coolant too.

Gotta be something else here at play, I'm thinking.

Whats the price for that Supermodulation dual efan?
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
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Qatar
You kinda shot yourself in the foot with that electric fan. Its okay, it takes alot of reading to figure out that most advertised cfm is just garbage. Anyway, a clutch fan is rated 5 hp at 4K rpms, that equals 3500 watts, you can see now how an 80 watt electric fan is bad?
Iirc the supermod setup uses twin 250/300 watt fans which is way superior but if you want to do it urself, try a cts v fan. Check my thread I have alot of info on it but in summary its the most extreme oem fan that you can use and many custom builders with extreme cooling needs are using, and it works super nicely with the alphas pcm.

But afterall, nothing is superior to a clutch fan unless your issues are at idle or just above idle.

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?p=229142


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EndeavoredH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
371
Location
Arizona
I’ve found by trial that the clutch fan is the best cooling performance unless you go with a really powerful e fan. I tried using a fan assembly from a dodge magnum with an 6.6L. Fan worked great, but I couldn’t get a full test from all the little issues I had.

I prefer the clutch fan for how easy it operates and how easy it is to replace it. I did add a 12 inch spal paddle blade pusher fan. It helps at idle and keeps the ac cold when it’s 115*.


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06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,350
Location
Meridian, ID
The most strained cooling system I have seen is on AMRGs H3. He’s overseas and is wheeling in sand, in 100*+ heat, with a big V8, cam and a high stall converter. He went through so many iterations of cooling systems but it seems he figured it out and it cools nicely. He’s using 2 different GM OEM fan setups.
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
The most strained cooling system I have seen is on AMRGs H3. He’s overseas and is wheeling in sand, in 100*+ heat, with a big V8, cam and a high stall converter. He went through so many iterations of cooling systems but it seems he figured it out and it cools nicely. He’s using 2 different GM OEM fan setups.
Thanks! Im still unofficially in comm with spal, Brent Chuck who works for spal USA is a very nice guy that I find on different forums. Spal made a 1KW (1.35 hp) brushless fan that I tried getting when my used puller fan took a dump, but unfortunately that fan and all newer ones use the newer communication protocol oems moved to which basically lets the fan give feedback to the pcm about its speed to better control it for fuel mileage reasons. Fan is apparently used in the performance BMW division (M2/M3) and wont work with out canbus system. So I guess 850 watt brushless is the most we can get AFAIK.
Price has gone down fyi, you can get it brand new from rockauto at $265. Some fiber work and custom.brackets, pcm tune and you are good to go.
I still recommend a clutch fan though, an HD clutch that locks the fan more efficiently (less slipping) will diffenetly out perform this anywhere above 2K rpms

You can witness the power of the 1 KW fan here posted by spal (notice the steel grating the fan is bolted to floating)

https://youtu.be/5vJtZ7ugbrQ

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Last edited:

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
Whats the price for that Supermodulation dual efan?


Not sure. You will have to contact James @ Supermodulation for the current prices.

I pulled the info below (with his contact info) from the forum he mainly uses. Note that this is just the specs for the I5, I'm sure that the dual fan version for the V8 is higher than 4500 CFM. Here you go:

[FONT=&quot]SuperModulation Model SFAN4500 Electric Cooling Fan (efan).[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The first efan kit designed for the Chevy Colorado / GMC Canyon / ISUZU / Holden / Hummer H3 vehicles.[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]Fan Specifications:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* Speed - 1500 to 4500 CFM's, highest rating on the market.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* Low power consumption, normal driving conditions - 186* to 205*. Low speed = 4 to 13 amps, Hi speed = 15 to 35 amps.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* Automatic resettable circuit breaker included.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* Custom HIGH AMPERAGE PWM controller specifically programmed to match the I4, I5 and V8 temp curves.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* Includes all brackets, hardware and screws.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* Light weight and durable black aluminum fan frame.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* Drop in design.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* No cutting, No drilling.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* Pre-wired, Only 4 electrical connections that plug/bolt in to your fuse box.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* Main Power wire harness is 10 gauge wrapped in wire loom for durability.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* Low noise. Normal operation is 55 dBa to 85 dBa at 10 ft. away, hood closed.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]* Installation with the proper tools should take less than 2 hours.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]PM, TXT or call 732-690-6443[/FONT]
 

Guerrero

Well-Known Member
Messages
124
Location
Spain
Hey!

Check out my thread about h3 cooling system problems investigations here:

https://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php/14490-Guerrero-s-take-on-H3-cooling

I discovered that main problem with overheating issues with h3s is the Coolant itself, being follow with thermostat...in the i5
About the H3 alpha, I recently bought an H3 alpha and use the dual efan system that I comment in the link up...its a dual efan setup from a Dodge Magnum that only requires the shroud to be a little cut and adapted, work greats!

I used Davies Craig Fan Controller and with the h3 alpha I reuse the dual efan puller system with One davies craig fan controller, and going to install another Fan in the front, a Mishimoto 16 inch fan pusher with another Davies Craig fan controller and command too the ACC to this pusher fan!

I use water sensor for both controllers, and a inline adapter from Davies Craig for both sensor
 

StandoutAlpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
67
Location
Minnesota
You kinda shot yourself in the foot with that electric fan. Its okay, it takes alot of reading to figure out that most advertised cfm is just garbage. Anyway, a clutch fan is rated 5 hp at 4K rpms, that equals 3500 watts, you can see now how an 80 watt electric fan is bad?
Iirc the supermod setup uses twin 250/300 watt fans which is way superior but if you want to do it urself, try a cts v fan. Check my thread I have alot of info on it but in summary its the most extreme oem fan that you can use and many custom builders with extreme cooling needs are using, and it works super nicely with the alphas pcm.

But afterall, nothing is superior to a clutch fan unless your issues are at idle or just above idle.

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?p=229142


Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I tried putting the fan clutch back on but then I stripped the fan clutch nut threads. **BUMMER!**
I'm having a difficult time threading it onto the water pump.
I might have to buy a new fan clutch but a new fan clutch is going to cost $100+ thinking I might as well add another $100 and go with a electric fan instead.

Will the CTS/ATS V fan clear the oem factory 5.3L where the water pump is? Seems like it'll be a tight fit, my Efan I mention on this thread has about the width of a quarter of clearance just barely fits
Hows your CTS/ATS V fan holding up?
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
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Im still using the truck water pump, only way since the H3 uses a truck spacing accessory bracket so I migrated all that to the LS3 engine. Only reason I went with an electricn fan was that the mechanical fan wont clear the intake tube coming off the throttle body, which sits 4" lower due to the "car" intake on the LS3. The fan+shroud should be 8cms deep (for clearance). I do have the bolt sticking out of the waterpump cut so the face is flat to gain 1" clearance.
The fan is great, the fact the controller is built into it and its an oem is even better. Its waterproof, doesnt need relays just an 80 amp fuse connected directly to power and needs the control wire pinned to the pcm. You can run it at speeds between 15% to 100% depending on engine temp and ac pressure which means it doesnt have to run more than needed. The pcm also turns it off above 45 mph (at that speed the fan becomes a restriction). Life wise i dont no, the first one i used was from a junkyard and lasted 2 more years. Now Im using a brand new one.
Keep in mind you will need to fiber glass the shroud abit to seal properly and cut a small area for the radiatorr inlet.
Fan is loud at full power but not as loud as the 2 spal HO fans i was using earlier, those were brushed fans and pulled 35 amps each! It outcools them too.

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amrg

Well-Known Member
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2,317
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You can see the water pump bolt cut here (this was a previous setup that didnt work)
9714ee492a0e377ea9ba3dde8168bc21.jpg


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StandoutAlpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
67
Location
Minnesota
Clutch Fan 1 MONTH [UPDATE]

I put in a NEW HAYDEN 2889 Thermal Severe Duty Clutch Fan and also removed the E-fan I had on. So I'm running the clutch fan alone.

Temp still reaches up to 235 F degrees and going up with AC on and the car on idle in stopped traffic but goes back down to (195-200) F degrees when starts driving/cars moving.

I know turning the AC on will make the car run hotter but why does it do that? My other cars never do that. Only the H3 does that and only car that I owned that does that

I have already replace a NEW****
-2 row all aluminum radiator
-180 F degrees thermostat
-Waterpump
-Coolant

All of that and it still read high temps.??? I think this H3 belongs to winter only I'm so done. What do I still need to do to cool down the BEAST??

Another thing, the FAN SHROUD is not in.. But I feel like that shouldn't be the problem it could be but it shouldn't hurt the cooling process that much right?.....

What do you all have to say?
 
Last edited:

EndeavoredH3

Well-Known Member
Messages
371
Location
Arizona
Clutch Fan 1 MONTH [UPDATE]

I put in a NEW HAYDEN 2889 Thermal Severe Duty Clutch Fan and also removed the E-fan I had on. So I'm running the clutch fan alone.

Temp still reaches up to 235 F degrees and going up with AC on and the car on idle in stopped traffic but goes back down to (195-200) F degrees when starts driving/cars moving.

I know turning the AC on will make the car run hotter but why does it do that? My other cars never do that. Only the H3 does that and only car that I owned that does that

I have already replace a NEW****
-2 row all aluminum radiator
-180 F degrees thermostat
-Waterpump
-Coolant

All of that and it still read high temps.??? I think this H3 belongs to winter only I'm so done. What do I still need to do to cool down the BEAST??

Another thing, the FAN SHROUD is not in.. But I feel like that shouldn't be the problem it could be but it shouldn't hurt the cooling process that much right?.....

What do you all have to say?

The fan shroud will make the difference either by throwing around hot air or pulling cool air through the radiator.


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Last edited:

amrg

Well-Known Member
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Fan shroud is very importat, as said earlier. Air will pass through the least resistance and having a dual row radiator upfront will make the fan tend to pull more of the air around it instead of suck the air infront of the car through the radiator.

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atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,173
Location
massachusetts
Ill third that. Fan shroud makes HUGE difference for both E fans and mechanical. Get the alpha shroud back installed and it will make a huge difference. Also, this isnt a old GM 350. The LS engines can run hotter with a proper tune and not have any issues. This was done for emissions reasons I have read. In the summer, sitting in traffic with the A/c on 210-220 isnt going to kill the engine. I would think you could get down to that range with the shroud installed.
 
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