Vdawg’s H3 build

Fast forward a few years and I obtain a Rancho lift from that batch they found 2 years ago. Also installed a 1” daystar bodylift to clear the 37” Ironman Allcountry MTs. I mount them on GTWheels 17” H3 wheels converted to a true beadlock. These have the factory offset and hub bore but are 8.5” wide. They also reuse the factory hub cap covers. I needed 1.5” wheel spacers to clear the upper control arm. I used BORA spacers which are hubcentric.

Next up I got a KC Gravity Pro6 light bar from a friend at a price I couldn’t say no to. At the same
time I get that installed I got a LED headlight adapter and dual battery tray from LasedDesigns. I opted for a basic $80 7” led from Amazon. For the dual battery tray I also added a blue sea switch that switches between batteries as necessary based on charge.

At this point I got an offroad trailer and a new rooftoptent. Quicker setup and takedown on this tent. Having the trailer allowed us to bring our Great Pyrenees with us on trips again. Ever since we had a baby the backseat has been taken up by the car seat and gear.

Thanks for sharing. Looks very capable and well setup for overlanding.

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Next thing was modify the rear door strut with a locking strut from a FJCruiser. You need the strut and bracket from a FJCruiser. You will also need attach two bolts rivnuts would be best, but I cut two holes inside the door and attached nuts to tighten

I decided to get a solar panel made for the area of the hood above the runcool hood louvre to keep the batteries topped off since I don’t drive the H3 often other than for camping or wheeling. Lensun Solar made a 45w to fit directly onto the area and included a solar controller also

The panels have been working great. I decide to install a 120w panel from Lensun solar on top of the Rooftoptent to keep the trailer batteries topped off also

Towing the trailer is hard on the H3 in traffic and up steep grades. To help the transmission I get a Ron Davis Radiator, two external transmission coolers from Amazon and two 10” electric fans. Current average trans temp is 140-160. Highest I’ve seen it get was 188. All according to the scan gauge which I also installed

There are a few things here and there that I can’t seem to find pics of. Such as the Molle panels on the rear windows and door from MollePlatformSolutions. I don’t have a good
picture of the transcoolers and electric fans. Only
other thing that has been added is a Weboost......which works only sometimes

Now for the stuff yall been waiting for. The SAS stuff. It started out with me getting a set of 2007 F350 axles (Dana 60 and Sterling 10.5”). I was going to swap there onto my daily driver 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. But then I acquired the 2001 GMC Sierra 2500hd which was already solid axle swapped.

So since I wasn’t swapping the 1/2 ton anymore, I decide to sell the f350 axles. At this time I’ve already decided I was going to SAS the H3. So instead someone offered a trade for a GM 10bolt front axle with chromoly shafts, 4.88 gears and an ARB locker. So that’s what I did. I was already talking with CJ and acquiring parts. New knuckles,
steering arm, diff cover, steering stuff.

Next I get all different mounts and brackets from Ruffstuff and BallisticFab that CJ recommended. Also got the ABS hubs and other parts from CJ that are necessary for the SAS

For the steering setup I decided to go with a FJ80 steering box from Redhead Steering. Ram assist is a unit from Trail-Gear.

At this point I have almost everything I need to start. I decided to do coilovers instead of coil springs. So I ordered a 12” stroke 2.5” coilover from King. Cool rates are 250/350. Took 5
months to get these. rear shocks are their standard 10” stroke 2.5” shocks both the rear shocks and front coilovers have compression adjusters also

Fast forward a few months......and somehow I get convinced....coerced....blackmailed.....just kidding,
i decide to go with tons. Kept thinking that if I’m going to do all that work, I should make sure I don’t want to have to go bigger later. Enter Crane Axle. They offer 14 bolt and Dana 80 axles for both the front and rear. These axles are customized to your specs. I ordered a front and rear 14 bolt with 5.38 gears and ARB lockers. RCV shafts for the front. I ordered mine with the 13 bolt diff covered. So the diff are shaved already. Mine are also 72” wms and have gm 3/4 ton brakes. Mine are also 6 lug so that I can reuse my wheels. don’t wanna buy new wheels. On top of all that they built these for me with 55 tooth ABS tone rings I just have to figure out how to mount the sensor

It took a few months to build these. But I received a few update photos here and there. Front axle housing,
tubes and Cs welded together the tubes are 4”
diameter with 1/2” thick walls


next they did the gear and locker install


they also got the rear going with the gears and locker as well

Fast forward a few more months and they’re done. It’s just the RCV shafts that didn’t arrive yet. They’re experiencing huge delays. I had them shipped to Shaffer’s Offroad. I had hoped to have the swap done before Moab with the BlackSheep Hummer Squadron but there was no way not could be done beforehand. So it began after I got back.


when they arrived at Shaffer’s

Shaffer’s Offroad was not able to do my swap for me due to their crazy backlog at the moment, but one of the guys that works there will take on the project at his home as a side project. I’ve met him and he’s a cool guy. Currently is the head welder and fabricator at Chassis Unlimited as well. So he picked the axles up from Shaffer’s and moved them to his garage. View attachment 27462View attachment 27463

As some of y’all already know, I had a few things go awry on the Moab trip. First was my leaf spring plate broke on Top of the World trail. It was a first Gen Schwarttzy high clearance leaf spring bolt plate. When it was discovered a few years ago that the shop Eric manufactured his plates through was welding several plates together rather than bending on piece of steel, we talked and he got me a new set of one piece plates to replace mine with. But I was too lazy to swap them out and just thought, “well they haven’t broken yet” lol. Just want to be clear that I do not think it’s Eric’s fault hold him responsible in any way. He even messaged me while I was stuck on the trail saying he can overnight another set if iwant. But it was not necessary as Jacob was already bringing me a set of OEM plates and the guys were going to weld the broken plate together to get me off the trail the next day. It is also important to note that the plate was cracked a while ago as there is sign of rust at the weld and it looks like it was only held on by 2” of clean weld. Luckily it broke on trail and not while speeding down the highway. Call me lucky in that way. View attachment 27464




so when the plate broke, the axle separated from the leaf springs, and I was on an incline. Everyone sprung into action and centered the axle on the leaf spring. I stayed with the rig and waited for the guys to bring the welded plate the next day View attachment 27465




so the other thing that went wrong was likely related to the axle separating. Especially since I was on an incline, the driveshaft probably got pushed into the transfer case. We didn’t know anything was wrong as I was able to wheel with the group the entire week after the leaf plate incident. So after the week was over while I was driving back to Norcal, we stopped to camp in Nevada. The next day we did some exploring around the area and the H3 started making clicking noises. We thought it was the driveshaft so we pulled that outView attachment 27466




After that there was still clicking and it was coming from the transfer case. We were still
5 hours from home. The H3 still drives so we decide it would be best to push it and make our way home. Made it from Lovelock, NV all the way to Auburn, CA before the transfer case just started spewing fluid everywhere. Grey metallic fluid. View attachment 27467




after a 3 hour wait the tow truck finally came drove us the last 2 hours to home. View attachment 27468

So since the transfer case needs to be rebuilt or replaced, it is time to move forward with the solid axle swap anyways. After removing my
gear and cleaning the rig, I load up all the necessary parts into the H3 and get her on a flatbed to Matt’s house where the work will be doneView attachment 27469View attachment 27470

At first I ordered 42” Goodyear MTRs. But they kept getting pushed back on delivery, some folks saying they waited 6 months for theirs. So I cancelled that order and got 40” ProComp Xtreme MT2s instead. these seem readily available all the time and are much cheaper. Plus I am sure the drivetrain will appreciate it more




here they are in front of my daily driver which are on 35s.





I stored them at a flooring supply warehouse. I know the guys there and they have a ton of room. We just set on a truck that’s no longer in use. They’ll be here until it’s time to mount them

I have not had great luck with Goodyear tires over 35"

3Hummers said:

I have not had great luck with Goodyear tires over 35"

Click to expand...

as in a durability or availability?

Durability. Bad wear patterns.

Have you had any trouble with wench pull angle since the Hawse Fairlead is recessed so far back in the ARB bumper? Mine is the same way and thinking about going to roller Fairlead.

10ergy said:

Have you had any trouble with wench pull angle since the Hawse Fairlead is recessed so far back in the ARB bumper? Mine is the same way and thinking about going to roller Fairlead.

Click to expand...

no. I haven’t had any problems.