Help Me With My Dilemma

Ok, I'll try to keep it as short and sweet as I can. First, I'm 50 years old, out of all the vehicles I've owned in my life, I really like my H3 the best out of all. I bought mine a couple of years ago with a smidge over 87,000 miles on it. Today it has roughly 165,000. So, I'm driving roughly 40k miles per year. It's obviously my daily driver.

The engine is the I-5. It hasn't given me any problems at all, the same goes for the transmission.

I've had to do the obligatory front end work on it, and Monday I'll be changing out the wheel bearings.

I've been considering moving to a new(er) truck. I was actually sitting in a dealership the other day, while they were working up the paperwork on a new truck. Just before I was about to sign on the dotted line for nearly a $600 per month payment, I walked out. (My first brand new truck in 1987 cost $7000).

I just can't wrap my head around paying nearly $7k per year to drive a new truck.

Here's my question...I'm considering keeping the hummer, throwing some money into it as needed....obviously as some point it's going to need a new engine and trans, but I think that day is at least a minimum of a year or two away.

1. How much should I expect to pay to have a new engine installed? Can I get a "new" engine for it as opposed to a something out of a junkyard with 100k miles on it already.?
2. How much for a transmission?

Does it make financial sense to keep the H3, replace the engine and trans as needed, or do these H3's have a definite "shelf life" where you just have to bite the bullet and ditch it..

My H3 is only the base and I don't do much 4 wheeling, but I do take it into some fairly remote locations through the mud,etc..

OR

Do I try to find something like an Alpha and try to keep it alive (since the resale is much higher) rather than the one I currently own. There are a couple around me for about $12k with 140,000 miles.

OR

Do I just sell it and buy a truck?

Thanks for the input!

Just keep what you have if it works, you could trade it and end up with a lemon, hell even a brand new vehicle could end up a problematic headache.

Trans rebuild runs between $1,600-2,400 depends where you live.
Engine replacement I’m not as familiar on but I have a good friend with the 3.5L which is considered the ‘bad’ engine (vs the better 3.7l) and he’s over 260k miles.


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I paid 5K to have a brand new crate V8 put in our H3 Alpha several years ago.

The V8 swaps are likely less money than the I5 swaps, as the V8 is a lot more common of an engine. The H3 is very maintainable and short of cancerous rust, fire, etc. you can maintain it for a long time if you want.

3Hummers said:

I paid 5K to have a brand new crate V8 put in our H3 Alpha several years ago.

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I thought it was nearly impossible to swap the I5 for the V8? Or am I wrong in that....Or is it that it's nearly impossible to swap the 6liter V8 into the I5?

I was only thinking about swapping a new I5 if/when needed, but if I could put the 5.3 V8 in without a problem, that's even better.

He meant V8 to V8 replacement costs vs i5 to i5.

Honestly if you blow your i5, just get an engine out of the junkyard, take it to your favorite machine shop and have them rebuild the long block, if necessary bore the cylinders and your good to go 250-300k miles.

Obviously if they bore the cylinders you will need to get your fuel mapping tuned to match but that’s no big deal.

Ok...So, now let's complicate our lives even more. So to go over things...I currently have a 2008 Base with 165000 miles. Late last night, I see this thing online. it has the locking diffs. I don't know if this is technically the adventure package or the luxury package. I'd assume adventure since the seats aren't leather.

It's a little higher than I'd like to pay, but with interest rates the way they are, I'd essentially just be extending my payment another 3 years. I have a year left on mine @ $360 per month, and by my calculations, I could get this for about $370 per month with trading mine in... 90,000 miles less than what I have on mine, it looks to be in excellent condition, and one of my best customers for over 20 years runs this dealership. I think this is a no-brainer.

https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/ctd/d/utica-2008-hummer-h3-suv-4wd-4dr-suv/7270902095.html


Update: Drove out there, was excited! Got to the dealership, it wasn't there. They said it has an engine light on it for a misfire and they're trying to diagnose it and fix it off-site. More than a little bummed. They couldn't tell me what code it was throwing, so I guess I'll wait to see.

That's a good looking H3, and it's got the Adventure package but not the Luxury package. Nice to see something with such low mileage. Be sure to test the transfer case and the lockers before you sign any deal. I do think it's priced a couple grand high.

alrock said:

That's a good looking H3, and it's got the Adventure package but not the Luxury package. Nice to see something with such low mileage. Be sure to test the transfer case and the lockers before you sign any deal. I do think it's priced a couple grand high.

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I'm hoping the problem is just the ignition coil. But I can't imagine GM mechanics having a hard time figuring that out since I can find it on Youtube in a matter of minutes. If they can determine that it's just a minor problem like that, I'll still buy it, as I had to (and probably everyone has had to) replace their ignition coils.

The sales guy had no idea what the code was...the guy next to him said he thought it was a misfire on 2 or 5, couldn't remember....But they said it drives fine, they've been driving it, but they won't sell it with an engine light on it...which I appreciate. With my luck, It'll probably need a complete rebuild.

Gadsden said:

Update: Drove out there, was excited! Got to the dealership, it wasn't there. They said it has an engine light on it for a misfire and they're trying to diagnose it and fix it off-site. More than a little bummed. They couldn't tell me what code it was throwing, so I guess I'll wait to see.

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Don't let that bum you out. Depending on what the problem actually is, it might give you a ton of leverage negotiating. I had that very same thing happen to me last year. I went to look at a car and told the guy upfront I was looking for a beater with a heater first thing. Guess what the ONLY thing on the car was that did not work. The heater! Blend doors were bad, but I practically stole the car after that.

By the way, that listing is wrong on the color. That's Graphite Metallic, not Boulder Grey.

08H3 said:

That's Graphite Metallic, not Boulder Grey.

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You're 100% right. They gave me a paper with all of the details on the vehicle. You are correct Sir!

I didn't add my input to your original question...and some people might be grateful when I keep my mouth shut, but... I think you answered your own question in your first post if you are like me. You say you really like the H3 AND a new truck is going to cost you $7,000 a year. Are you really going to have to spend $7,000 to maintain your H3 over the course of the next 5 years? Probably not. You'll likely pay far less to drive a car you actually like as opposed to a truck that your are settling on.

08H3 said:

I didn't add my input to your original question...and some people might be grateful when I keep my mouth shut, but... I think you answered your own question in your first post if you are like me. You say you really like the H3 AND a new truck is going to cost you $7,000 a year. Are you really going to have to spend $7,000 to maintain your H3 over the course of the next 5 years? Probably not. You'll likely pay far less to drive a car you actually like as opposed to a truck that your are settling on.

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This x100

It’s far cheaper to maintain your H3 over the course of 5 years than to replace it and pay a car payment for many years to come, along with the depreciation loss over those years.

Coming from an H2 owner an H3 is far cheaper to maintain and if one came along cheap enough I wouldn’t hesitate to jump on it as long as basic maintenance had been kept up.

Just got off the phone with the guy actually doing the work on the H3. He said it's definitely a sporadic problem with the compression in Valve 2. So they're going to fix it. But he won't even be able to get it into his shop for a week, then the sales guy said the price would obviously go up...I told them if they don't raise the price on it, Id still be interested in it, if they do, I'll stick with what I have.

Gadsden said:

Just got off the phone with the guy actually doing the work on the H3. He said it's definitely a sporadic problem with the compression in Valve 2. So they're going to fix it. But he won't even be able to get it into his shop for a week, then the sales guy said the price would obviously go up...I told them if they don't raise the price on it, Id still be interested in it, if they do, I'll stick with what I have.

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"Sporadic" valve/compression problem? :huh:

650Hawk said:

"Sporadic" valve/compression problem? :huh:

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It only happens once a revolution [emoji1787]

650Hawk said:

"Sporadic" valve/compression problem? :huh:

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Yeah, he said that as he's looking at it on the diagnostic sometimes it happens a couple of times, sometimes it happens 25 times....and when it happens too much, it throws the code. He says it's just sticking here and there. What do I know, I'm not a mechanic. The thing has such low miles on it, roughly 6,000 per year for 13 years, I wouldn't be surprised that things got "gummy" in between drives? Who knows.


On a side note, I got a call from my mechanic with MY existing hummer. He doesn't agree with what I thought it might be, and is going to throw it on the lift in the morning... Here's what happened to get it into the shop.

Last week I was on my way home, I was going from an on ramp onto the freeway (not punching the accelerator)...All of a sudden my SERVICE 4WD light comes on...at that moment, I start hearing a sound. It's more or less like a high pitched whine...it gets higher as I go faster and lower as I so slower.

The following morning I go out, fire it up..The SERV 4WD light isn't on anymore. (and hasn't come back on). But the droning has stayed...and has progressively gotten worse. I started to think it might be wheel bearings, so I didn't drive it at all.

Dropped it off at the shop, him and another mechanic took it for a drive.. He says "It sounds like road noise from the tires to me". But he can't give a good diagnosis until he can get it on a lift.

I run the BF Goodrich KO2 tires and have for awhile, they're fairly quiet on the road. However, a couple of weeks ago I did have 2 new tires put on...so they took the existing rears and put them on the fronts...But I drove like that for a couple of weeks and this sound wasn't there...and the tires are still in good shape.

So, I won't know what's going on with it until tomorrow. Hopefully it's nothing serious.

Tires you put on are the same size as the removed tires correct?


2 new tires are same size as the two tires you still have on truck.

Iwillnc said:

Tires you put on are the same size as the removed tires correct?


2 new tires are same size as the two tires you still have on truck.

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Yep..Exact same size tire, same brand/model.

You’ll need to have the H3 guys chime in from here but if it was the wheel bearing I imagine that would be an easy tell - if it’s making noise it should have some slop presentable.

Next I would try shifting the transfer case into 4lo and check that it functioned right, perhaps check the fluid condition.

if that checked out I would dump your front diff fluid and check the condition.

I know it doesn’t always work this way but typically you want to keep your tires rotated well enough that you kill all 4 at once since you’re AWD. But I certainly don’t think that’s your issue in this case.

Talked to the mechanic this morning. As it turns out, it's the wheel bearings. I'm having them change both sides, he can't get the Timkens which is what he usually uses, so he's putting in some F A G bearings (not sure if I love the name, but whatever).

Gadsden said:

Talked to the mechanic this morning. As it turns out, it's the wheel bearings. I'm having them change both sides, he can't get the Timkens which is what he usually uses, so he's putting in some F A G bearings (not sure if I love the name, but whatever).

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You can go to rockauto.com can see what available and prices. Will be able to compare what he puts on your bill at least

Well, everything went well. Got her back at about 4 today. Wheel bearings changed, and all is well in the world. The H3 rides again.

Always great to get your baby back.

Ok, so to complicate this matter even further... Now it's leaking oil like a mutha. It's never leaked oil before..Not a drop.

If you've read any of my other posts, you know that I am NOT a mechanic. I have a particular set of skills. Turning wrench isn't one of them.

So, the mechanic the other day says...

The H3 was 3 quarts low, so we put some oil in it...(AFAIK, my H3 doesn't "use" oil much, and it 100% does not leak oil)....But I do trust my mechanic, they're good guys. Heres what he tells me.

It's pretty common with this engine when it gets this cold, the condensation that's built up in the engine actually turns to ice, expands, and basically pushes oil right out or around the PCV Valve. Now, that could explain why I've never noticed it. I've had the H3 for about 3 years, in that 3 years we've had really moderate temps all winter..

Last week however, if you totaled up all of the day time temps, the grand total of all of those numbers would be 6 degrees. It's cold....

So, I pick it up from him thinking that the problem is probably solved..

This morning, I walked into my regular gas station a few blocks from my house, grabbed a cup of coffee and walked out...Id' left her running...There was an absolute puddle of oil under it in a matter of a couple minutes.

Have any of you heard of this before?