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Got a Hummer...Won't Start

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,401
Location
Way up north, UT
I've torn apart the switch before to figure out just how it is failing. There really isn't an easy way to test it without proper equipment and expertise and more time than I would care to spend. It's less work to just swap the switch out since it's been pretty well established that it is the main source of this problem, and not just by the H3 guys. Lots of other GM vehicles that use the same Passlock system tend to have this very problem. You will be a lot happier with that new switch.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,590
Location
Indianapolis, IN
I had PCM of NC tune out the passlock. Not sure what happens then when the switch fails and you dont have the pass lock programmed in there?

I get that its a security thing but as its not my daily i'm ok with that.
 

fowlken8

Well-Known Member
Messages
246
Location
Southwest
It's got a lift, volant cold air intake, throttle body spacer, 35" mud tires, 20 inch rims, exhaust, pioneer touchscreen sound system with sub and amp, roof rack with overkill lights. It's an 07 with 130k miles, but I got a very good deal on it.
 

fowlken8

Well-Known Member
Messages
246
Location
Southwest
I replaced the sensor... No more lock 1 error..... Drove perfectly for a couple of days. Still having an unpredictable hard start at times. Most times it turns over first try, other random times, 5th...10th try. Hmm. I've realized that I don't always hear the fuel pump turn on, and when I do it stays amazingly fast. Maybe a bad fuel pump?

I replaced it twice on my old 07.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,449
Location
Scottsdale
If the engine is turning, it's not likely the fuel pump. You may have a failing battery. In AZ they don't necessarily wear out; they break and go from working to not working instantly. Have you had the battery tested? I think you said you checked the cables and terminals but perhaps put a tester on those cables. They could be corroded and weak internally.
 

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
874
Location
WI
I just articulated in a separate post how my pick-up truck (not H3) battery died a couple weeks ago. I had driven it all day to pick up construction supplies at various places around town. Went to jobsite and worked the whole day till night. Then no-start. Got a lot of funky warnings and messages on the LCD dash display (again, not H3). After charging the battery for hours it spectacularly failed a load test. Needle dropped like a rock. New battery and boom! She's all good now. So, you never know. A Harbor Freight load tester might be something to add to your kit, or take the battery to an auto parts store for a check.
 

fowlken8

Well-Known Member
Messages
246
Location
Southwest
Should I hear the fuel pump prime reach time I cycle the ignition off and on? Because I don't. I hear it the first time I start it each day and that's it.

I just replaced the pcv hose, mine was smashed flat and cracked up. We'll see if it helped. I'll take a look at my spark plugs soon
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,449
Location
Scottsdale
I don't really listen for the fuel pump on the H3, but I can tell you that on my Silverado it only primes if the truck has been sitting for an extended period, like overnight.
 

fowlken8

Well-Known Member
Messages
246
Location
Southwest
I don't really listen for the fuel pump on the H3, but I can tell you that on my Silverado it only primes if the truck has been sitting for an extended period, like overnight.

That's exactly what I wanted to hear. I only hear it after sitting overnight. I too, never pay attention.

I replaced the ignition switch and no longer get the lock 1 error code (so far). It'll start every time, sometimes a LONG crank.

The battery is new. The connections look perfect. I don't know where all of the grounds are at so I haven't checked them. The fuse box looks fine too. All connections and fuses/relays are in place with no corrosion.

I wonder if the PCV hose could have any negative effects? I definitely needed one and replaced it. Could that fix an idle issue?
 

Happy Hummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,305
Location
Wisconsin
Time to stop guessing and start inspecting.
Back probe for dc V+ and ground. Continuity tests and ohms values.
I'd start by verifying that I'm receiving solid ground and 12V+ to chassis and engine/starter. Remove them, clean and reinstall.
I'd take the time to probe for 12V+ and ground at the fuel pump. Nothing like corrosion in your connector to ruin the day.
 

650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
483
Location
SoCal
Although the battery cable clamps may LOOK perfect, if they are the stock POS clamps, get rid of them and replace with some nice clamps, like This:
IMG-20160117-134013306.jpg

Trust me, the stock clamps are the cause of many, many electrical issues with the H3.
 
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