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amrg

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I went with the 3200 based on circle ds recommendation. I havent seen anyone here with a stalled car/truck so I really had no idea what to expect, I just knew it was needed based on the feedback of the first person to do the ls376/480 on an H3 and how much the stock stall affected driveability and stopping due to the higher idle rpm.
I wish I could restall, but Due to my location, it would be cheaper to buy a new one than send this back. But again its a 4l60 and I believe one day its gona be a 4l80 so im not planning to invest into this.
With 4.56 and 37s my trans will be better since it will lockup earlier and stay locked at highway speeds. it will also make the truck flash to a lower rpm which should reduce heat.
The lockup part is important, with 37s the trans wont stay locked at 100 mph (highway speed here) while with 35s it would. In the summer this caused my trans temps to spike to 250* and thats not what I want.
Finally, with 4.10s the rpms hover at 1400 at 60 mph in overdrive, too low for my cams power curve and it feels like im lugging. With 35s I never had an issue so hopefully 4.56 is the answer


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Gpcalero

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Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
I went with the 3200 based on circle ds recommendation. I havent seen anyone here with a stalled car/truck so I really had no idea what to expect, I just knew it was needed based on the feedback of the first person to do the ls376/480 on an H3 and how much the stock stall affected driveability and stopping due to the higher idle rpm.
I wish I could restall, but Due to my location, it would be cheaper to buy a new one than send this back. But again its a 4l60 and I believe one day its gona be a 4l80 so im not planning to invest into this.
With 4.56 and 37s my trans will be better since it will lockup earlier and stay locked at highway speeds. it will also make the truck flash to a lower rpm which should reduce heat.
The lockup part is important, with 37s the trans wont stay locked at 100 mph (highway speed here) while with 35s it would. In the summer this caused my trans temps to spike to 250* and thats not what I want.
Finally, with 4.10s the rpms hover at 1400 at 60 mph in overdrive, too low for my cams power curve and it feels like im lugging. With 35s I never had an issue so hopefully 4.56 is the answer


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Holy cow, the highway speeds there are 100 mph? Or do you mean kph? I haven't tried but I don't think my truck would like to lock up at 100 mph very much with even the 35's. :whaa:

37" tires:
1,564 rpm with 4.10 gears @ 60 mph.
1,740 rpm with 4.56 gears @ 60 mph.

The change to 4.56 gears will deff help you with the lugging problem at 60 mph.

35" tires:
1,654 rpm with 4.10 gears @ 60 mph.
1,839 rpm with 4.56 gears @ 60 mph.
 

amrg

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Yeah the highways here have an official 70 mph speed limit, but unofficially 100, the smaller ones are 70/85 mph and inside the city are 50 mph (which is why i programmed my truck to hold 3rd up to 60 mph and enabled lockup on 3rd, id rather by cruising around town at 2K rpms and 3rd than lugging at 1200 rpms and 4th!)
I know rpm change isnt much (11%) but its either this, regear the rear and lose 4WD or regear both and go solid axle front. Since this way cost me $500 its much cheaper to do!
 
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Gpcalero

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234
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SW Florida
Another race weekend and towing with the T...


y1dFuMQ.jpg


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Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
Big update on the build. I put the build on pause for a little while because I was going through the process of buying my first home. Very happy to share that after closing on my home and doing some renovations over the last few months, I am excited to get the build going again.

MagpO1H.jpg


I scored another really rare part to add to the truck. Drove three & a half hours each way after work to snag it. I got home at 1 am and had to work the next day but it was worth it. Not sure how many SnugTops were made, but I'm glad that this one happened to already be painted in my color!

cL5egNq.jpg

sM6Ffup.jpg


I always liked them but it has really started growing on me even more now that I have one.

cOLI09F.jpg


Couldn't resist snagging a dusk shot!



And finally, I nailed down a long weekend to start the 6.2L LS3 swap. After work, I loaded up the T with all the new goodies you'll see in time and went to my buddies place to get started. The SnugTop definitely came in handy here, no fear of stuff flying out of the bed or things flying out of the open boxes lol

rvkzTXO.jpg


I took Friday (today) off and started yesterday after work. Works out well for me because my employer observes July 4th on the 5th since it's on a Sunday, so I have a 4 day weekend full of wrenching. Here's what we accomplished so far. Bumper & grille removed, radiator, engine harness and misc items disconnected, cab mounts removed. We are ready to lift the cab off the frame in the morning and get more room to pull the engine/trans.

CAZtL6I.jpg


I'm gonna try to keep this updated in real time over the weekend so you guys can follow along.
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
Started the day with lifting the cab off of the frame. Doing so makes it so much easier to pull the engine/trans/TC.

fV4oVJg.jpg


​Rolled the frame back for access with the hoist


9NKnGCZ.jpg


Done!
:horns:
Engine/trans pictured below. We had already removed the transfer case at this point.


TVHUK4s.jpg


The T looks a little funky with just the bed and Snug Top on it lol. :whaa:


0dH67wn.jpg



Got the transmission off and back in the build room and isolated the Alpha's V8.

If anybody wants them, I'll be selling the LH8 specific manifolds, motor, torque converter & misc V8 pieces for those who are looking to do the I5 to V8 swap. Everything runs and works as it should!


Pzk2GCb.jpg


The engine may already be spoken for, pending offer.


We started digging into the transmission but unfortunately we needed a special bit to remove the bell housing. It's very similar to a Torx bit, and called a Torx Plus bit, which is just different enough to where we don't want to strip the bolts without the proper bit. In addition to that, we found that we are missing a few pieces for the transmission build so we have to wait to order some parts. And I can't do/get anything this weekend because it's July 4th holiday weekend of course so we wait and put everything on pause until Tuesday or later.

And to make things worse, there's a hurricane coming, Hurricane Elsa. Hopefully the predictions of it being a tropical storm when it hits stays true. We were worried about the cab blowing off the lift and ended up putting it back on til the storm blows through.

So we wait...

LSsu1SF.jpg
 

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amrg

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Wow! I did it the old fashioned way, pulled the engine out. One thing I forgot to do was replace the firewall insulation, it got damaged during the instal and fell apart very quickly. Id recommend you insulate that area and around the trans to reduce incabin heat

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Gpcalero

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Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
Wow! I did it the old fashioned way, pulled the engine out. One thing I forgot to do was replace the firewall insulation, it got damaged during the instal and fell apart very quickly. Id recommend you insulate that area and around the trans to reduce incabin heat

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Pulling the motor was a breeze this way. The only annoying part is aligning the cab to the body mounts when reinstalling.


Update**

The engine is still for sale. My buddy was going to buy it for his turbo charged Fox body mustang since these engines are highly sought after due to being an aluminum Gen 4 (strong pistons & rods) with no DOD or VVT. But he ended up buying another Fox body.
 

amrg

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Yup! Aluminum block, no AFM/DOD, good exhaust manifolds and high flow truck intake manifolds. Yet, GM only gave us 300 hp to play with!
 

Gpcalero

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Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
Well...

It took a while but I got the missing pieces that I needed. This Torx Plus bit, and the rest of the clutches and steels for the forward and overrun sets. Due to the pandemic, Raybestos had a 6-8 lead time on the pieces that I needed. Luckily, I was able to get the friction set from WIT and they pieced together the few missing steels that I needed to move forward.

SntJ9Rw.jpg


Started the teardown.

Gz0KunU.jpg


​Don't want to do this twice so I've tried to build this thing the right way.

Sonnax smart tech input housing and Borg Warner 29 element dual cage sprag. The Sonnax housing allows for more full sized frictions and steels for more power holding capacity.

cokzegZ.jpg


GM 5-pinion rear planetary to replace our stock 4-pinion piece & Sonnax high strength input shaft.

np2MJWZ.jpg


Installing the Sonnax 2nd & 4th gear super hold servos.

VbPxDmW.jpg


The smart tech input housing loaded up with the 3/4 Raybestos GPZ frictions and lindered steels

4A5vZXF.jpg

New GM reverse input drum and Sonnax extra wide Kevlar band


wqtYRcV.jpg


And probably my favorite piece of this tranny build is this 6-pinion front planetary. This changes our gear ratios to allow less engine RPM on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, thus keeping the engine better in it's power band.

l5GFSV8.jpg
jQCjExW.jpg


More Sonnax parts. Modified oil pump and installed their Performance Pack modifications to the valve body (didn't get any pictures).

QUbvHqn.jpg

m1DYCmC.jpg

BOyVjK1.jpg


All wrapped up and ready to go back in


ntlZ3rL.jpg



Still lot of work to be done!
 

Gpcalero

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Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
More progress.

Prepping the bottom of the LS3. Installed windage tray and oil pick-up tube

AZL1IIY.jpg


Close up of cylinder #4's forged internals.



gNVL3RR.jpg


Thanks to the Hummer chat boys for this one. This is going to make future oil changes much quicker and easier with the Rancho.
:thumbs:


hLUAbIB.jpg


Mounted the engine/tranny/transfercase back on the frame. Whew!

9AoIhqQ.jpg

Stopped here for now. Most of the big work is done. The small stuff is really going to be taking up the rest of the time as we put it back together. And there are a TON of small things to do lol.
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
Worked on a few different things today.

I've read in a few different threads that some of the few other that have done the larger motor swaps experience higher coolant temps, so I have a few mods to help with that.

One of them being the thermostat. Stock Alpha thermostat is a 186 degree F unit, and this new Lingenfelter piece is a little lower than that at 174 degrees. They make much lower stats (170, 160, etc), but I didn't want to go too aggressive, this isn't a race car. Should help a bit


HCojx7u.jpg


Swapped the Lingenfelter thermostat in the new water pump, mounted accessories. Ran into the known issue of running the LS3 intake manifold with the Alpha accessories. As you can see, the throttle body has clearance issues with the pulley in front of it. Will have to cut on the line shown. Thanks to Armg for reminding me of this and the part number to the new belt size needed to run without the pulley (it was almost perfect, I had to grab a size larger though).


IwdgkgQ.jpg


Installed the new ceramic coated JBA shorty headers. They are pretty nice in general, but I am really not a fan of the raised port design on them (the flanges aren't flat). Added copper RTV on new OEM gaskets to ensure no exhaust leaks. Threw their junk gaskets that came in the headers in the trash.


WphHXSr.jpg


Starting to look like a proper engine!

The truck is now 12 years old. It's honestly in great shape in my opinion. No rust and nothing f**ked up on it thankfully. Frame, body etc. But the one thing I noticed was that the wire harness loom was VERY brittle in some places, other places it was cracked or falling off (wire running across top of transmission). So I took the better part of 2 hours reconditioning the harness, taking it off the motor and removing the old plastic loom in places it was showing it's age, and replacing with new shielding and new electrical tape. Also added more wire heat shield wrap to the areas near the exhaust where the OEM heat shielding is.

8orazPl.jpg

Getting there. Almost time to put the cab back on.



 

jimmy p

Well-Known Member
Messages
186
Location
detroit
Well...

It took a while but I got the missing pieces that I needed. This Torx Plus bit, and the rest of the clutches and steels for the forward and overrun sets. Due to the pandemic, Raybestos had a 6-8 lead time on the pieces that I needed. Luckily, I was able to get the friction set from WIT and they pieced together the few missing steels that I needed to move forward.

View attachment 27603


Started the teardown.

View attachment 27604


​Don't want to do this twice so I've tried to build this thing the right way.

Sonnax smart tech input housing and Borg Warner 29 element dual cage sprag. The Sonnax housing allows for more full sized frictions and steels for more power holding capacity.

View attachment 27605


GM 5-pinion rear planetary to replace our stock 4-pinion piece & Sonnax high strength input shaft.

View attachment 27606


Installing the Sonnax 2nd & 4th gear super hold servos.

View attachment 27607


The smart tech input housing loaded up with the 3/4 Raybestos GPZ frictions and lindered steels

View attachment 27608

New GM reverse input drum and Sonnax extra wide Kevlar band


View attachment 27609


And probably my favorite piece of this tranny build is this 6-pinion front planetary. This changes our gear ratios to allow less engine RPM on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, thus keeping the engine better in it's power band.

View attachment 27610
View attachment 27611


More Sonnax parts. Modified oil pump and installed their Performance Pack modifications to the valve body (didn't get any pictures).

View attachment 27612

View attachment 27613

View attachment 27614


All wrapped up and ready to go back in


View attachment 27615



Still lot of work to be done!
Looking good. What gets modified on their oil pump?

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Gpcalero

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Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
Looking good. What gets modified on their oil pump?

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Thanks buddy. The Performance Pack from Sonnax gives you a billet pressure regulator boost valve & higher pressure spring, as well as a high RPM pump slide spring. According to their website, the performance pack does:


  • "Consistent, firmer shifts under load without sacrificing low-speed drivability or guessing on calibration
    • Faster pressure increase and higher overall pressure for greater clutch/band holding power
    • Three ultra-reliable, patented, billet pinless accumulator pistons
    • Unique 1-2 accumulator spring combination for shifts with character
    • Improved high RPM pressure
    • Third accumulator valve gets the 2-3 right the first time, every time
  • Durable parts target commonly worn areas and prevent future damage to the accumulators and separator plate
  • The only way to eliminate PWM function without over-pressurizing converters (optional)"


Can't wait to feel how it drives!
:gears:
 

amrg

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If you had the trans tuned previously for firmer shifts make sure you reset the epc solenoid value to stock otherwise that shift is gona feel like a hammer banging the back of your head. Its was recommended on other performance forums to do so and saved my neck...

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Gpcalero

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Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
If you had the trans tuned previously for firmer shifts make sure you reset the epc solenoid value to stock otherwise that shift is gona feel like a hammer banging the back of your head. Its was recommended on other performance forums to do so and saved my neck...

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Yep, we are resetting trans tune to stock due to all the parts that increase pressure already lol. Definitely a good idea.
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
Welded the exhaust to join the new headers, finished harness on frame/engine and installed the Daystar body lift on the cabin. What an annoying process, let me tell you... :foff:


YWgrwbn.jpg


No pictures yet. We started flying through the rest of the long to-do list and were on a roll. Still need to install body lift on the bed. Probably do that tomorrow.


Installed the Motion Raceworks steam port vent, & cut the bracket to allow clearance for the throttle body. You end up losing the pulley that sits there. Picture showing belt routing after cutting the pulley off.


7CTdiDJ.jpg


Not really happy with the amount of belt wrap we have on the power steering pump. Apparently it works just fine for the few that have done it this way but I wanted to change it. Shoutout to Amrg again for showing me this pulley relocation bracket from ICT Billet that adds a bit more belt wrap to the power steering pump pulley. Ordered this up but it won't be here in time for first fire up, which is fine, we'll just install it later with the longer belt.


oxbDria.jpg

Reinstalled the biga$$ ECP radiator, Supermodulation e-Fans and AC condenser. Then installed the TruCool 40k transmission cooler. I knew this thing was large, but this sucker is HUGE! Managed to get it all tucked in nicely with just a slight tilt down and to the front on the passenger side. Running this cooler separate from the ECP radiator to avoid the possibility of mixing coolant and tranny oil in case the radiator fails. Makes the radiator cooling the engine coolant as it's only priority. I'm expecting to generate a bit more heat than stock with the higher stall converter. Hopefully, everything works nicely together.

Also painted the hood latch support bar. Was showing indications of rust.

Efs9D5c.jpg


With the low profile LS3 manifold, it doesn't even look like there's an engine in there with this angle lol.
:giggle:


Very close to first start-up. Still lots of little things and wires to wrap up. Hopefully have it running by tomorrow night assuming we don't run into any issues.

 

Guerrero

Well-Known Member
Messages
124
Location
Spain
Welded the exhaust to join the new headers, finished harness on frame/engine and installed the Daystar body lift on the cabin. What an annoying process, let me tell you... :foff:


View attachment 27630


No pictures yet. We started flying through the rest of the long to-do list and were on a roll. Still need to install body lift on the bed. Probably do that tomorrow.


Installed the Motion Raceworks steam port vent, & cut the bracket to allow clearance for the throttle body. You end up losing the pulley that sits there. Picture showing belt routing after cutting the pulley off.


View attachment 27631


Not really happy with the amount of belt wrap we have on the power steering pump. Apparently it works just fine for the few that have done it this way but I wanted to change it. Shoutout to Amrg again for showing me this pulley relocation bracket from ICT Billet that adds a bit more belt wrap to the power steering pump pulley. Ordered this up but it won't be here in time for first fire up, which is fine, we'll just install it later with the longer belt.


View attachment 27632

Reinstalled the biga$$ ECP radiator, Supermodulation e-Fans and AC condenser. Then installed the TruCool 40k transmission cooler. I knew this thing was large, but this sucker is HUGE! Managed to get it all tucked in nicely with just a slight tilt down and to the front on the passenger side. Running this cooler separate from the ECP radiator to avoid the possibility of mixing coolant and tranny oil in case the radiator fails. Makes the radiator cooling the engine coolant as it's only priority. I'm expecting to generate a bit more heat than stock with the higher stall converter. Hopefully, everything works nicely together.

Also painted the hood latch support bar. Was showing indications of rust.

View attachment 27633


With the low profile LS3 manifold, it doesn't even look like there's an engine in there with this angle lol.
:giggle:


Very close to first start-up. Still lots of little things and wires to wrap up. Hopefully have it running by tomorrow night assuming we don't run into any issues.


AMAZING GPcalero!!

About the Tranny cooler I have mounted the same in my two h3s and you are going to have cooler temps than you will like...lol, the tranny cooler is huge and super capable, I runned it with more than 90ºF outside temperature, in desert dunes with low speed and LOT of tranny abuse and temps never climb over 170ºF, for me its amazing, tranny really likes cooler temps...the only issue running cooler temps is not eliminating all the condensation inside the oil, just replace the tranny fluid more often and you are good to go!

In my case, I use a bottle of Lucas Oil Transmission Fix additive in each of my tranny fluid changes, I can see a reduce in tranny temps of almost 10ºF, and the additive stabilize the Cooler fluid of tranny
You know, the killer of trannies is high temperature

Keep the amazing work!! And keep us posted :)
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
AMAZING GPcalero!!

About the Tranny cooler I have mounted the same in my two h3s and you are going to have cooler temps than you will like...lol, the tranny cooler is huge and super capable, I runned it with more than 90ºF outside temperature, in desert dunes with low speed and LOT of tranny abuse and temps never climb over 170ºF, for me its amazing, tranny really likes cooler temps...the only issue running cooler temps is not eliminating all the condensation inside the oil, just replace the tranny fluid more often and you are good to go!

In my case, I use a bottle of Lucas Oil Transmission Fix additive in each of my tranny fluid changes, I can see a reduce in tranny temps of almost 10ºF, and the additive stabilize the Cooler fluid of tranny
You know, the killer of trannies is high temperature

Keep the amazing work!! And keep us posted :)

Thanks Oscar! We'll see how hot she actually gets. I'll keep you guys updated.

Awesome work! I enjoyed the transmission tear down pics. Haven’t gotten into a 4L60E yet

Thanks Chris, I wish I had gotten pictures of the valve body modifications to show you guys. That was probably my favorite part of the tranny build. Also the part that worried me the most, because you permanently modify these valve bodies and they are hard to get :eek
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
Hopefully have it running by tomorrow night assuming we don't run into any issues.

:banghead:

Well... I f**king jinx'd myself.

Drained the transfer-case and replaced with fresh fluid. Surprised that these BorgWarner cases only take 1.7 quarts. Stuff looked like it was long overdue for a fluid change! Feel like it should be changed more often that you think. Anyways, after filling the T-case, I filled the transmission with 10 quarts of Dex XI (overhaul/dry fill is 11 quarts) and moved on to filling the engine with the break-in oil.

After this, I noticed ATF dripping from the bottom of the truck. Doesn't take a genius to know that's not good. Under further inspection, it wasn't leaking from the pan or dripping down the side of torque converter, it's coming from behind the torque converter which means only one thing... the transmission is leaking from the front of the housing/oil pump. So the transmission has to come out again, but this time, from under the truck.
:mad:


sdP8wKU.jpg


Being upset was an understatement. I was so mad lol.

We went over everything. Double and triple checked our whole transmission procedures and found that we missed a quick but important step. Our oil pumps don't have an internal seal/o-ring, they are wedge-style pumps which means you press them in and bolt them down. However, the front/exterior of the pump does take a seal, and it gets pressed in between the ridges of the oil pump/case and the bell housing shown below. I think in our excitement having finished the trans, we bolted on the bell housing and dropped in on the frame with the engine. Luckily, we don't have to pull the pan or take apart the the actual transmission, just drop it and remove the bell housing.

Pic just showing the location of the missed seal.

GamE5MH.jpg


Grateful to have Amazon Prime next day delivery. New seal came in and we installed it, and compressed it in with the bell housing. Such a bummer to have to backtrack, but that's the game we play. And for those that rebuild their own transmissions, be mindful that the seal kit you buy, may not have this newer style seal in it. Ours didn't.


Reinstalled transmission. Nice and final (hopefully) view of the Circle D Specialties billet converter.


529nOPF.jpg


Another setback. Pulled a couple of wires mistakenly and broke off a diode on the e-fans while troubleshooting them and disabling the fans. Attempting repair tomorrow when parts get in but wrapped up the rest of the engine bay for first start! Just need to do some wire management and she'll be all set.



Py7exSZ.jpg


​Never a dull moment
 

amrg

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Patiently waiting on that first start video. Good luck

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RamRod

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3,914
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AB, Canada
I have been gone for a while and look at this progress!!!! Great work!

Think the JBA shorty headers will clear the frame on a Alpha?
 

Gpcalero

Well-Known Member
Messages
234
Location
SW Florida
Patiently waiting on that first start video. Good luck

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk


It's coming!! :horns:



I have been gone for a while and look at this progress!!!! Great work!

Think the JBA shorty headers will clear the frame on a Alpha?


Hey bud. Yep, I know the JBA shorties will clear the frame no problem, and no issues with the steering column either! But they don't bolt up directly to stock exhaust. And I don't really like their portside flange design. Other than that, they are decent. Here's an excerpt I wrote up for another forum member the other day.

-- The passenger side exit is aimed nicely parallel to the frame. The driver side is a little bit more tight but it fits on my vehicle without any modifications to the header or surrounding parts on my truck (besides the receiving stock exhaust). The stock exhaust will only be a little bit off on the passenger side but you should be able to fabricate the little misalignment there. The driver side however is quite a bit off, and it does aim the output in an area that gets tight/close to the frame but the headers themselves clear just fine.

Here is the passenger side showing how nicely it falls into place. And then below, my driver side. Don’t pay attention to my booger welds, this is just a temporary set up to finish my swap before I have an actual exhaust shop weld me in a full system lol. I am by no means a good welder! :weld: :giggle:

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