CE Build Wheels

Guys, I am starting the build for my CE and I am trying to find a 17" Wheel with the correct offset. The OEM wheel is +38 mm Offset/ 5.75 Backspacing

I can find 0/4.5 offset/backspacing all day long........but with that offset I believe the tires are going to rub at FULL COMPRESSION. The stance is cool but not the rubbing when fully flexed..........

I am building for a trip to Moab so I want MAXIMUM CLEARANCE with minimal rubbing on a 35" tire. I would just stick with the OEM 16"s but I want to expand my tire options.


The wheel pictured might be a good option, it is 17x8 5.5x6 with a 106mm hub and 25/5.5 offset/backspacing.

it will stick out 1" more than stock. Is that going to rub at full compression?

Any other wheel recommendations?

Here is the PN: XD13278068525

The wheel you spec'd is +25mm offset, stock is +38mm, it will stick out 13mm over stock assuming the tire specs are unchanged.
Now when changing wheels & tires, lots of people have different experiences. Based on my personal experience, you may get away with up to 0mm offset on 35s using AT tires that tend to run small (not true to size 35" tires, such as Cooper AT3, BFG KO2). Other combos may or may not work but there are so many of them.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Thank you so much for the info!

I plan to use a mud terrain, possibly the STT Pro or Yokahama X-MT

I was surprised how hard it is to find a wheel that doesn't have an offset which moves the tires out. Many of the common 8.5"-9" options are moving the tire out 2" or more which is fine for most driving and lots of folks run that way but I don't want to have issues at full flex if I can avoid it.

I am also concerned about ripping off the CE flare extensions which don't have to be accounted for on most rigs.

In my opinion, there's no need to expand your tire selection. As long as KM3s are available in a 16 inch, put those on it and be done. I am sold on those tires for life. They would have to do something completely ludicrous to screw them up enough to make me switch.

08H3 has a good point - what tire is it in 17" that you want that you cannot get in 16"? I know there's a better choice at 17", but there are still great options at 16" that don't require you to spend 100s of dollars on new wheels. If you want new wheels go for it; if it's just for "expanded options" that seems like a pretty expensive way just to see more tires.

All good points. The main reason besides more tire choices is that my OEM chrome wheels are peeling and I want to replace them anyways. I just figure as long as I am doing that going 17's opens up my tire choices. I am not opposed to buying a set of OEM replacement wheels though and maybe that is the smarter choice.

This is my third H3 so I am also just looking to mix it up a bit.

Where I live we mostly have mud so in regards to tires I wouldn't mind stepping up to something a bit more aggressive than the typical mud tire. In the past I have always run the Toyo MT and while they are great and last a long time they are very heavy and I don't think they air down as well as some other MT tires I have had due to the very stiff side walls. Not bogger aggressive but somewhere in between that an a typical MT.

I haven't tried the KM3s but I liked the KM2s and the KM2s are significantly lighter than Toyos. Yeah, if you need to upgrade wheels then 17s could be a good way to go.