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Electric radiator fans

jphh20

Well-Known Member
Messages
173
Location
CT
I am very happy with my setup. I am running a custom e-fan setup from James at supermodulation. He sells most of these to the Colorado guys and has this system dialed in to perform better than the stock clutch fan. I am also running a .090” thermostat spacer in conjunction with this setup. Winters and summers are well balanced and it cools between 195-200*F at 95*F ambient and a/c on.
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jphh20

Well-Known Member
Messages
173
Location
CT
It’s extremely quiet. I can record a video the next time I take it out for this that are interested. It’s not noticeable at all inside the cab and I only notice it when I exit the rig and it turns on for 15s after the engine shuts off. It cycles once for 15s to remove heat from the engine compartment after you shut the engine off.


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Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
It’s extremely quiet. I can record a video the next time I take it out for this that are interested. It’s not noticeable at all inside the cab and I only notice it when I exit the rig and it turns on for 15s after the engine shuts off. It cycles once for 15s to remove heat from the engine compartment after you shut the engine off.


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That's awesome! So can you just order one? If so, how much are they? Right now I have the PCM of NC electric fan, and honestly the thing is way too loud. Its so loud, that I have a manual switch that I use to turn it off if I need to talk to someone while inside my rig. Also I have been wanting to record some videos of it, but I know the electric fan is also loud on video.
 

jphh20

Well-Known Member
Messages
173
Location
CT
Mine was custom built for my 06’ H3. It’s tuned for the alpha in terms of laminar flow but adapted with a thermal switch to turn on the fan when the temp triggers it. On 08’s plus, it runs directly off of the PCM/ECM. I paid $400 plus shipping and the list install support was awesome. It took me maybe 30mins to install, which included removing the clutch fan and shroud.


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Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
Mine was custom built for my 06’ H3. It’s tuned for the alpha in terms of laminar flow but adapted with a thermal switch to turn on the fan when the temp triggers it. On 08’s plus, it runs directly off of the PCM/ECM. I paid $400 plus shipping and the list install support was awesome. It took me maybe 30mins to install, which included removing the clutch fan and shroud.


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Great! So I just took a look on 355 nation. So I just give the guy a call? I have a 2008 Alpha. Would I just get the SFAN4500? Sorry for all the questions lol. I wish he had website with product info.
 

jphh20

Well-Known Member
Messages
173
Location
CT
No worries, happy to answer any questions that people might have. Not too many of these systems installed in Hummer to give good reviews. Yes, I would call James and he can tell you exactly what you need. Awesome guy and is an expert in this field.


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Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
No worries, happy to answer any questions that people might have. Not too many of these systems installed in Hummer to give good reviews. Yes, I would call James and he can tell you exactly what you need. Awesome guy and is an expert in this field.


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That's awesome! So usually on an average warm day like 60-70F degrees is the fan on constantly, or does it just turn on sometimes when it starts getting to hot? Also did you have overheating problems before hand where you H3 temp would creep up over the halfway mark? If so, did this fix that problem? My PCM of NC fan needs to constantly be on, even in 30-40F degree weather. Also I am still overheating a bit past the halfway mark at a constant 207F degrees.
 

jphh20

Well-Known Member
Messages
173
Location
CT
As I have added mods over the past 14 years, it’s been hard to keep the engine cool even with oem and routine maintenance. I am running 35s, 4” Rancho, 1” body lift, trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Zeon Winch, Thor parts bumper etc. This combo struggled to cool in traffic and didn’t move enough air with a new oem thermostat, radiator and clutch fan. It was time to try another angle and the .090” thermostat spacer (weld wire) and e-fan was my solution. The fan comes on when it needs to and is off more than on. The dual van system is also variable speed to adjust based on thermal conditions. Temp is rock solid middle at 195-200*F measure from my scan gage II.


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Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
As I have added mods over the past 14 years, it’s been hard to keep the engine cool even with oem and routine maintenance. I am running 35s, 4” Rancho, 1” body lift, trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Zeon Winch, Thor parts bumper etc. This combo struggled to cool in traffic and didn’t move enough air with a new oem thermostat, radiator and clutch fan. It was time to try another angle and the .090” thermostat spacer (weld wire) and e-fan was my solution. The fan comes on when it needs to and is off more than on. The dual van system is also variable speed to adjust based on thermal conditions. Temp is rock solid middle at 195-200*F measure from my scan gage II.


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That's awesome. Yeah my H3 Alpha can't seem to stay cool. I have a new radiator, thermostat, coolant flush, engine coolant temp sensor, ford gold performance coolant, and my current e fan but the still the thing still won't stay cool. Granted, I do have the Alpha with the 4in Rancho, 1" body lift, t bar crank, extended rear shackles, 38x13.50x18 M/T tires, gobi stealth, and Road Armor front bumper. What seems really interesting to me is that for 08+ models you can use the PCM/ECM instead of using a temperature probe? Do you know how that plugs in?
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
Im running dual electric fans on my truck, 1 infront of the condensor (pusher), the other in place of the clutch fan (puller). The pusher is a C7 brushless fan rated at 600 watts while the puller is a Zl1/CTSV brushless fan rated at 850. Both pcm controlled using the same input, with soft start, variable speed 25% to 100% and depending on temps/ac pressure ramp up and down as needed. They even turn off when I go faster than 50 mph (pcm variable) and the Zl1 fan comes inside a shroud that covers the entire radiator and tanks with built in flaps so air can bypass the fan at highway speeds (shroud will need trimming and minimal fiber work to seal it completely to the radiator)
My input:
1. They are the most hardcore setup you can get and they solved my 3 year long cooling issues (I went with several hardcore oem and aftermarket fans before that but none of those did it for me).
2. They can be acquired much cheaper than any aftermarket fans by simply buying the oems on rockauto.
3. I have a griffin rad to cool a 500 hp motor, yesterday we hit 105*, my ect where at 192* (fans where running at 80% due to ac being ON). I can them even lowet but I am running at 187* tstat that opens fully at 192*
4. They are loud, with windows closed I can hear them but not enough to not have a conversation on the phone. Infront of the vehicle it sounds like a jet engine.
5. Easily controlled by the pcm using one signal wire, will need hptuners/efi live to set them up. The power is taken directly from the battery so no need for relays.
6. This setup pulls 110+ amps at full speed. I had my alternator upgraded to keep up (stock is 145 amps cold at 1800 rpms)

But after all of this, I dont believe that setup will hold up for me if i was towing to the limits on a grade for a long time. The H3 radiator, even a dual core griffin, is too small for my engine. If I was gona do that again, I wouldve asked griffin to make me a 3" taller radiator now that I have a 2" body lift since I have approx 4" more space below the radiator (stock its 2")

Heres my earlier posts regarding this

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?p=229142
 

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
857
Location
WI
There's no free energy. You either consume gas to run the mechanical fan, or alternator drag (heat/fuel) for the electric fans. The mechanical fan is probably more efficient b/c you don't have to convert the energy to electricity (and back), and don't have fans and shroud adding air resistance through the radiator as ya drive down the hwy (meaning they'd need to run more/longer). But if you have a bunch of obstacles in front of the grille, it may be the better choice.

I would probably use one or the other. Make sure the shroud is well-sealed around the edges whichever way you go. A lot of classic muscle car owners and street rod guys struggle with cooling issues until they figure out their car's fan is not pulling air *through* the radiator, or they put a good shroud (where there wasn't one) around their mechanical fan, with good sealing foam or rubber damns like there was at the factory. Even with electric fans the better it's sealed around the edges, the more air is being pulled through the radiator. That's really the key.

I don't have a personal recommendation on a specific electric fan setup other than Summit has lots to choose from. What's listed above by others might work fine. If you need to get dense, high-temp foam, McMaster Carr has some to choose from. A lot cheaper choice is to use some dense foam strips cut from hot water pipe insulation, like from Home Depot.

Well. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
 
Last edited:

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
There is approx 5.5" total clearance between the water pump snout and the stock radiator, on a V8
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,350
Location
Meridian, ID
Im running dual electric fans on my truck, 1 infront of the condensor (pusher), the other in place of the clutch fan (puller). The pusher is a C7 brushless fan rated at 600 watts while the puller is a Zl1/CTSV brushless fan rated at 850. Both pcm controlled using the same input, with soft start, variable speed 25% to 100% and depending on temps/ac pressure ramp up and down as needed. They even turn off when I go faster than 50 mph (pcm variable) and the Zl1 fan comes inside a shroud that covers the entire radiator and tanks with built in flaps so air can bypass the fan at highway speeds (shroud will need trimming and minimal fiber work to seal it completely to the radiator)
My input:
1. They are the most hardcore setup you can get and they solved my 3 year long cooling issues (I went with several hardcore oem and aftermarket fans before that but none of those did it for me).
2. They can be acquired much cheaper than any aftermarket fans by simply buying the oems on rockauto.
3. I have a griffin rad to cool a 500 hp motor, yesterday we hit 105*, my ect where at 192* (fans where running at 80% due to ac being ON). I can them even lowet but I am running at 187* tstat that opens fully at 192*
4. They are loud, with windows closed I can hear them but not enough to not have a conversation on the phone. Infront of the vehicle it sounds like a jet engine.
5. Easily controlled by the pcm using one signal wire, will need hptuners/efi live to set them up. The power is taken directly from the battery so no need for relays.
6. This setup pulls 110+ amps at full speed. I had my alternator upgraded to keep up (stock is 145 amps cold at 1800 rpms)

But after all of this, I dont believe that setup will hold up for me if i was towing to the limits on a grade for a long time. The H3 radiator, even a dual core griffin, is too small for my engine. If I was gona do that again, I wouldve asked griffin to make me a 3" taller radiator now that I have a 2" body lift since I have approx 4" more space below the radiator (stock its 2")

Heres my earlier posts regarding this

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?p=229142

Do you have part #s for your setup? this is something I’d like to look into in the future
 
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