Somethingbigandorange
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- Arizona
Anyone who has done these - thoughts, opinions, advice? TIA
It’s extremely quiet. I can record a video the next time I take it out for this that are interested. It’s not noticeable at all inside the cab and I only notice it when I exit the rig and it turns on for 15s after the engine shuts off. It cycles once for 15s to remove heat from the engine compartment after you shut the engine off.
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Mine was custom built for my 06’ H3. It’s tuned for the alpha in terms of laminar flow but adapted with a thermal switch to turn on the fan when the temp triggers it. On 08’s plus, it runs directly off of the PCM/ECM. I paid $400 plus shipping and the list install support was awesome. It took me maybe 30mins to install, which included removing the clutch fan and shroud.
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No worries, happy to answer any questions that people might have. Not too many of these systems installed in Hummer to give good reviews. Yes, I would call James and he can tell you exactly what you need. Awesome guy and is an expert in this field.
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As I have added mods over the past 14 years, it’s been hard to keep the engine cool even with oem and routine maintenance. I am running 35s, 4” Rancho, 1” body lift, trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Zeon Winch, Thor parts bumper etc. This combo struggled to cool in traffic and didn’t move enough air with a new oem thermostat, radiator and clutch fan. It was time to try another angle and the .090” thermostat spacer (weld wire) and e-fan was my solution. The fan comes on when it needs to and is off more than on. The dual van system is also variable speed to adjust based on thermal conditions. Temp is rock solid middle at 195-200*F measure from my scan gage II.
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Im running dual electric fans on my truck, 1 infront of the condensor (pusher), the other in place of the clutch fan (puller). The pusher is a C7 brushless fan rated at 600 watts while the puller is a Zl1/CTSV brushless fan rated at 850. Both pcm controlled using the same input, with soft start, variable speed 25% to 100% and depending on temps/ac pressure ramp up and down as needed. They even turn off when I go faster than 50 mph (pcm variable) and the Zl1 fan comes inside a shroud that covers the entire radiator and tanks with built in flaps so air can bypass the fan at highway speeds (shroud will need trimming and minimal fiber work to seal it completely to the radiator)
My input:
1. They are the most hardcore setup you can get and they solved my 3 year long cooling issues (I went with several hardcore oem and aftermarket fans before that but none of those did it for me).
2. They can be acquired much cheaper than any aftermarket fans by simply buying the oems on rockauto.
3. I have a griffin rad to cool a 500 hp motor, yesterday we hit 105*, my ect where at 192* (fans where running at 80% due to ac being ON). I can them even lowet but I am running at 187* tstat that opens fully at 192*
4. They are loud, with windows closed I can hear them but not enough to not have a conversation on the phone. Infront of the vehicle it sounds like a jet engine.
5. Easily controlled by the pcm using one signal wire, will need hptuners/efi live to set them up. The power is taken directly from the battery so no need for relays.
6. This setup pulls 110+ amps at full speed. I had my alternator upgraded to keep up (stock is 145 amps cold at 1800 rpms)
But after all of this, I dont believe that setup will hold up for me if i was towing to the limits on a grade for a long time. The H3 radiator, even a dual core griffin, is too small for my engine. If I was gona do that again, I wouldve asked griffin to make me a 3" taller radiator now that I have a 2" body lift since I have approx 4" more space below the radiator (stock its 2")
Heres my earlier posts regarding this
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?p=229142