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  1. #1
    Bald Tire
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    How to verify tcase and elocker before removing from a totaled H3?

    Hi everyone, new guy here. I just purchased a totaled 06 H3 for the sole purpose of stripping the adventure tcase and elocker for the other sas H3 I just purchased from another member here. The totaled donor runs and moves but the brake line is severed in the front, a arm is broken and the floor is buckled against the gas pedal so I can't exactly drive it down the road. I spent about 5 minutes between the flatbed and my garage trying to get it into 4 low and engage the locker but it wouldn't shift out of 4 hi. The stabilitrack light was on, not sure if that would have anything to do with it. Looking for some advice on anything that I should do before I start to strip it down for parts to verify their operation that I couldn't do after they are out of the vehicle. Second question, once they are out what should I check to see if they need rebuilds before going back in to the other rig (which has 5:13 gears so swapping the entire axle might not be the best option)?

    Third question which I have been searching through the forums for an answer. In my case with a full donor I have the option of swapping everything related to the adventure package over related to the locker (dash button, wiring harness, bcm etc). I read that some people don't like the bcm controlling the locker. I like the OEM look/function so I am on the fence. Is it possible to keep the button but bypass the bcm and it's authority? I haven't had time to pull the switches yet to see how they are wired.

    thanks to everyone already, I have been learning a lot from this forum just digging through the old threads.

  2. #2
    Super Swamper
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    The switches are momentary so you'd have to have some control circuit to latch the state of the button and keep the locker engaged for you.

    Either you have the BCM handle the controls (which may require a BCM swap, in addition to swapping wiring harnesses. I don't know if they used the same harness for adv vs non-adv but probably not) or just wire up a toggle switch to power the e-locker.


    As for the t-case you'll probably want to remove it and then test it since it sounds like the controls aren't working correctly in the current state of things. You should be able to remove the encoder motor and manually turn the selector to see if it's engaging everything correctly. There's the 4 positions, 4hi unlocked, 4hi locked, 4lo locked, and neutral. I'm not sure what position of the shaft is which, someone else on here surely knows and will comment. Might even be something in the FSM pdf on https://schwarttzy.com/

    But with it out and turning the selector shaft, while turning the input and applying some type of resistance to the output shafts, you should be able to find out if each of those positions work.

    4hi unlocked will turn one or the other outputs or both, but once you prevent the rotation of one output the other will still spin as the input is spun.

    4hi locked will result in both outputs being locked together so if you turn the input and try to stop one of the outputs the other output will stop turning as well, and the input will want to stop turning too.

    4low locked is the same as 4hi locked but for every 4 turns of the input the output shafts will turn once (for the adventure t-case)

    Neutral should have neither output turn when the input is turned.



    You could probably also test this with the tcase still mounted to the tranny by disconnecting the drive shafts and only trying to turn the output shafts, turning one output in 4hi unlocked will get the other output to turn in reverse rotation (due to the way the center diff works), 4hi locked will probably not turn at all unless you have the transmission in neutral, same with 4lo locked, but then you won't be able to tell which locked you're in.
    2008 H3 Alpha

    "Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - General John Stark

    N1JPA

  3. #3
    Bald Tire
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    Jimbo, with the error code you are having that might be limiting the switching out of 4hi. Turn the key to acc (engine off) and then try to switch to 4hi lock. To switch to 4low you will need to have the truck in neutral. Yes, you can run a separate switch to engage the locker while in 4hi lock. Carl has done this with his h3.

  4. #4
    El Diablo
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    I think bypassing the BCM would be difficult for the locker switch. I think swapping BCMs requires dealer input, but I may be mistaken.

    Most H3 owners do not do any maintenance on the transfer case or diffs so I would pull the covers off of the diffs and split the t-case.

  5. #5
    Super Swamper
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    How to verify tcase and elocker before removing from a totaled H3?

    You failed to mention mileage of the donor truck but, t-cases are commonly neglected and most need freshened up by 85k. This usually entails a new chain and shift fork. Your 06 AP case should not have an internal snubber (another source of problems on later t-cases). Inspect the fluid very carefully...it can tell you a lot. If you have any error codes, it is very common that the t-case could be electronically disabled. So it may be okay mechanically, even though it won’t shift.

    If your donor H3 was a soccer mom rig...the rear locker may be in “like new” condition. However it is often junk by 70k, if the truck has been wheeled or abused. There are several rebuild kits available from Summit Racing, depending on what components are worn. Usual culprits are locking pins & plates and/or the actuator coil. I have seen worn spider & side gears as well. Once removed and inspected, you can determine which kit(s) you need. The locking diff can be swapped into your single track housing without too much drama. You’ll need to drill a hole for the wiring to enter the housing (use your donor axle to locate the hole). Assuming the 5.13s were setup correctly, the locker swap won’t effect pinion depth or preload. So the only setup task will be adjusting the backlash.

    As for the wiring...I think I understand what you are asking. You want to use the factory button, but wire it independently from the computer, correct? I think this may be possible but you will need to modify the backside (printed circuit board) of the switch panel...somehow killing the factory current path and re-routing it (by soldering?) to a standard two-wire on/off pigtail. From there you can use a standard automotive relay to operate the locker independently of the BCM. I honestly don’t know if you can modify the stock button strip without destroying it. Frankly...I would just mount a separate switch for the locker (and another one for the front) and call it done.
    Last edited by 4speedfunk; 02-14-2020 at 07:22 AM.

  6. #6
    Bald Tire
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    Ok thanks for the input everyone. It has over 200k on it, but every indication points to soccer mom usage so I am hoping the locker is good. With the mileage, it sounds like I should plan to rebuild the tcase before spending any time swapping it in. I might just do it along with a v8 swap. I am losing interest in the usage of the oem locker switches and wire it independently, sounds much easier.

  7. #7
    Bald Tire
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    you can buy the factory pigtail end so your connection will be waterproof.




    "what country can preserve it’s liberties if their rulers are not warned from time to time that their people preserve the spirit of resistance?" (Jefferson)


 

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