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H3 marker lights / roof lights

H3 Jimmie

Member
Messages
10
Location
White Mtns, AZ
Hey guys, i got a new problem. I got an 06 H3, Adventure. Driven down the road the other day and my roof lights just blew off, like gone!! I have two wires dangling and half an orange left. Can't find a new light set-up (OEM marker lights or roof lights) to make it look stock. Anybody know my options?
thanks
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,400
Location
Way up north, UT
Go back and look for it. Hopefully it didn't get run over. With how rare and expensive those things are if I had any idea where it might have blown off I'd try to find it of possible.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
857
Location
WI
If you have really good fabricating skills (or know someone who does - or a fab shop), such a panel could be recreated in steel (and paint). Probably would cost not a whole lot more than what a new one would, if it was available.
 

Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
Better off to have the riv nuts removed, holes filled, and painted and cure the problem.
 

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
857
Location
WI
Maybe this is the time to get creative and hand-sketch some ideas out on paper ...use yer imagination to see what you 'could' do, what are extreme ideas and conservitive ideas, projector lights(??) ..how 'cool' could you make something (like a brain-storming session). I used to hang with a crowd who used to do street rods. We used to fabricate a lot of fun things out of steel and/or fiberglass. It's not that hard to make fiberglass molds out of foam. Be nice if you had your old one. Like they said, go back and look for it. Even pieces. You should check out some videos on youtube about making plastic or fiberglass molds. Your imagination and ambition is the limit.

If yer not sure what to do and want to take some time, just put some chrome stove bolts (with hex key), or painted body color, etc .. and put in until you decide. Then you still have the mounts in place if you decide you want to do something ...or find a replacement panel. It's actually kind of nice to have the mounting rivet bolt holes in place for a future mod. If you grind them out, then you have to deal with the holes. And the only 'good' long-term way to deal with a hole in steel is to either put a bolt in place, or fill with weld and repaint. And welding flat sheet steel on a roof takes finness (so ya don't warp the roof). If you bondo or fiberglass over the holes, it'll work short-term but they'll reappear.
 
Last edited:

f5moab

Mr. Beretta
Messages
1,986
Location
Hiding in a potato patch in Idaho
If it was my H3 (and I know it isn't) I would do some bondo work, maybe add a bed liner strip in the front location, just to cover the old position of the lamps, and then install an LED light bar, using the existing wiring.
 

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
857
Location
WI
If nothing else, keep checking ebay, CL and Facebook Marketplace for a replacement. Some of those guys on ebay who are parting out wrecked Hummers, I've messaged them and bought items they didn't have listed. Some sellers list a few parts and say something like, "Let me know if there's anything else you need".

Bide your time, something will come up sooner or later if you're patient.
 

Rockhound

Active Member
Messages
43
Location
Colorado
did you ever get it sorted? when i bought mine the lights were fubar, they had been siliconed back on. I pulled the lights, braised the holes shut using silicon bronze, a little filler some primer, I sanded back the roof shere the lights were, raptor liner to match the color, replaced the corner trims and top trim on the windshield. Looks great,

You dont have to pull the insert nuts, to weld it up with the bronze you can use the nuts as a heat sink, it fills faster and easier. I also did the hood louver delete, at the same time. You can get the raptor liner tintable to your h3 color, mine just happens to be black.

20191226_183333.jpg
20191227_120746.jpg
 

Rockhound

Active Member
Messages
43
Location
Colorado
sky, i also answered your pm

I did not remove them, I ground off the flange that sits above the sheet metal, I then braised the holes using silicon bronze mig wire, it is easier to grind down, uses less heat than steel, after sanding smooth i used a light coat of body filler, primed and then coated with raptor liner and satin clear like my hood.

I used the remaining material from the nuts as a heat sink for braising, the silicon bronze will bond dissimilar metals so now the nuts are permanently bonded in the roof., the bronze also uses less heat than steel so warpage is not an issue for the most part. The roof where it needs filled is not flat metal it is shaped and reinforced in the back with the roof structure so it did not warp at all. the hood had some warping but that was not caused by the braising it was from the years of people trying to forced the plastic louver faux crap hood art back into place. the raptor finish did a good job of curing the look of warped metal. i might have tried to shrink the metal back a bit with some heating and cooling, but it came out pretty well without it.

We have had lots of snow this week but when I get the chance to clean it up I'll snap some photos of the roof

Braised hole in roof:
20191226_123312 (2).jpg

I made fillers for the slots on the hood:
20191226_142140.jpg

hood braised:
20191226_175410.jpg
 

Rockhound

Active Member
Messages
43
Location
Colorado
for the OP, jimmie there is another option, The marker lights on a 1 ton ford, dodge chevy truck are attached directly to the roof. If you take down the headliner you could maybe have access to wire the lights, I'm sure you could retrofit some other lights into place, sealing the hole in your roof with a gasket of some kind.
 
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