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  1. #1
    Bald Tire
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    CV joint boot - replace only the outer boot or entire axle assembly?

    front driver's side outer boot has a leak (grease sprayed around the area)

    I see the boot kit available to buy, is this an easy weekend warrior project or better to replace the whole thing?

  2. #2
    Mud Terrain
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    Quote Originally Posted by jman1975 View Post
    front driver's side outer boot has a leak (grease sprayed around the area)

    I see the boot kit available to buy, is this an easy weekend warrior project or better to replace the whole thing?
    $55.79 for a new Cardone. $10-$15 for a new axle seal.
    I would replace the whole thing.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    jman1975 (11-22-2019)

  4. #3
    Sir Welds a Lot
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    ^^^^^Less labor/time to just change the entire shaft
    They call me
    "Bebe's On Board Mechanic"

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    jman1975 (11-22-2019)

  6. #4
    Bald Tire
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghostbuster View Post
    $55.79 for a new Cardone. $10-$15 for a new axle seal.
    I would replace the whole thing.
    That axle works with the front locking diff as well?

    Quote Originally Posted by speedy View Post
    ^^^^^Less labor/time to just change the entire shaft
    yeah, just watched a couple of YouTube videos and came to that same conclusion

  7. #5
    Street Tire
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    Before doing the work, I would encourage you to put a jack under the drivers side lower control arm, raise the wheel in the air a little (to unload the axle). Then using your hands, push up/down on the inner CV pod next to the diff. If you detect excess 'free-play' then I would encourage you to replace the outer axle bearings at that side at the same time you replace the CV axle (or boot). I replaced mine and it tightened it right up.

    Also. One little detail I didn't hear when I watched all the CV replacement videos is that you can just remove the upper control arm, tie rod and anti-sway bar joints and get the axle out ok. You don't need to remove the lower ball joint like some videos say. BUT (and here's the secret trick) ...you'll need to lower the lower control arm a fair amount to get the axle out. If you do that, it's a fairly simple job actually. I would also rotate all the steering joints through their entire range to work grease back into the joints (to extend their life). You might jack up the tires and push/pull on the top of the tire to see if you detect upper ball joint looseness. That's the time to change them (when you have the suspension all apart).
    Last edited by Jeepwalker; 11-22-2019 at 05:38 PM.
    Jeepwalker

    '07 H3 Advent/Lux
    Jeep XJ, ZJ, WJ
    Ram & GMC 4x4's
    Toyota Hilux

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    Bowser-II (11-22-2019)

  9. #6
    El Diablo
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    If you have an OEM half shaft, those are much stronger and have longer lives than the aftermarket ones, in my experience. It could be worth putting on a new boot, or trying to seal with RTV if it's a tiny tear - I did that for one and it held up for a year or more. I ran the Cardones for several years and only broke one on the trail but I've had two or three begin binding up after less than a year. I'm back to OEM CVs axles. Lot more money but I trust them more.

  10. #7
    Street Tire
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    How many miles on your H3? If your inner CV doesn't show much up/down free-play, then yeah it might make sense to flush out the old grease and put on a new boot. Alrock's point is one I believe too: OEM parts just seem to last way longer in general than aftermarket. In some cases, who knows .. they may be even better than Delco. OEM parts have to meet the original mfgr specs in terms of hardness and durability. (Sure there are instances where extra-robust aftermarket or off-road parts will exceed OEM but that's not what I'm talking about here)
    Jeepwalker

    '07 H3 Advent/Lux
    Jeep XJ, ZJ, WJ
    Ram & GMC 4x4's
    Toyota Hilux

  11. #8
    Bald Tire
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepwalker View Post
    How many miles on your H3? If your inner CV doesn't show much up/down free-play, then yeah it might make sense to flush out the old grease and put on a new boot. Alrock's point is one I believe too: OEM parts just seem to last way longer in general than aftermarket. In some cases, who knows .. they may be even better than Delco. OEM parts have to meet the original mfgr specs in terms of hardness and durability. (Sure there are instances where extra-robust aftermarket or off-road parts will exceed OEM but that's not what I'm talking about here)
    100k on the rig

    Didn't end up performing the work since the leak turned out to not be very bad... and that I'm selling the truck


 

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