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  1. #1
    El Diablo
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    Transmission and propshaft work today

    Well, it was a good day to take the H3 over to Reloader's for a little TLC. Last week the transmission was acting up. It didn't have 4th gear and the torque converter didn't appear to be locking up. This transmission is a GM replacement = 7 years, 70,000 miles on it. Fluid has been changed at least twice in that time. After a longish drive, I finally got a code to pop up. P0751



    Through exhaustive research I determined that a shift solenoid was stuck off. I went ahead and ordered two shift solenoids, a Wix filter kit (AC Delco was hard to get/expensive with the strike) and some more Dexron VI. When I bought the Dex VI this week it was $22; now it's listing for $45?. The total repair was about $70.

    We drained the transmission and the fluid was sorta dirty but not bad and it didn't smell burnt. That was a good sign. The two solenoids are in the back end of the transmission and are easy to replace. Pop off the electrical connector, remove the clip and the solenoid pops right out. Put in the new solenoids, the new filter and gasket and put everything back together. It ended up taking 5qts of fluid. From there the truck drove beautifully again.

    While under the truck there was the subtle sign that the CV boot on the front propshaft was torn. Grease everywhere! And specifically concentrated in a direct radius from the boot. For those that aren't sure what to look for, here ya go.

    Here's the line of grease. Note that the propshaft has already been removed




    Here's what the tear looked like


    And opened up.
    .

    Thankfully we had a couple of spare Dorman CVs sitting around (these aren't the best and they tend to have short lives, but they'll live longer than what was in there) so we popped one on.

    To get a new one on, the band clamp must be removed from the rubber boot and the boot cut away to expose the clip that holds the propshaft to the CV. You can see the clip at the tip of the screwdriver.


    Pull up on the shaft and it'll slide right out. Clean it up and insert the propshaft into the new CV. You'll have to turn it a bit to align it correctly, and hold the boot to keep it from sliding down. 4 hands works better than two. Even so, you may need to pull the boot up a bit to put on a new band (or reuse the old one as we did here)




    When putting the propshaft back into the truck, be sure to not hit the caps of the u-joint at the other end against they yoke or the cap may fly off, sending needle bearings everywhere. (Very hypothetical situation.) Since I had a spare u-joint in my truck, we went ahead and fixed up that end of the driveshaft was well. Please note that this new u-joint has a greaseable fitting and must be greased before driving off.

    For good measure, we checked the zerks on the rear driveshaft and managed to get 6 pumps of grease into each u-joint

    At the end, we had three happy blue H3s in the driveway.

  2. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to alrock For This Useful Post:

    Alpha X (11-02-2019), cbetts (11-03-2019), JPaul (11-03-2019), Korby7 (11-03-2019), Lauren (11-03-2019)

  3. #2
    Mall Crawler

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    I have plenty of Dex VI fluid and just a short drive lol!

    Glad it all got fixed. I remember that replacement trans
    2005 H2 Adventure

  4. #3
    El Diablo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zach View Post
    I remember that replacement trans
    Yeah, that was quite an ordeal but your help was tremendous. I was about to text you to get the warranty extended on this one

  5. #4
    Street Tire
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    Nice write-up! Thanks for sharing. I see new CVs are avail for $46 or $70 on Rock Auto depending on which aftermarket one ya want to take a chance on. Anyone know if they're any good? Are CV seals avail separately ..anyone know?

    Some small-town Chevrolet dealers around here sell Dextron and other GM fluids out of their large drums for less than I've found anywhere else online. I forget exactly what I paid, it's been several months, but it's usually about 35%-ish less. Worth checking on if a guy is going to change all fluids. I took two clean milk jugs down and got a fill. Talk to the parts guy or service guy (same guy in a lot of small dealerships). Best if ya show up on a Saturday when they're not busy ..and least that's what I've found. The Chrysler dealer around here does that too. And BTW, I didn't have to beg them. Once I asked about buying new fluid they *offered* to sell it out of their barrels if I had my own jugs. And since they weren't that busy, they walked over and we just filled up my jugs. The larger dealerships in the cities don't seem to want to screw with little things, but it might still be worth checking.
    Last edited by Jeepwalker; 11-03-2019 at 02:04 PM.
    Jeepwalker

    '07 H3 Advent/Lux
    Jeep XJ, ZJ, WJ
    Ram & GMC 4x4's
    Toyota Hilux

  6. #5
    Bogger
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    I recently had the same issue. Thanksgiving week I'll be replacing the solenoids too.
    2006 H3 Adventure & modified Rancho with SOA

  7. #6
    All Terrain
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepwalker View Post
    Anyone know if they're any good?.
    Bought 2 different off brand units off eBay ($50 each), both failed within a few months of installation. Ill have to give the $70 units a try.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2009 HUMMER H3 - V8 swap on 4.56

  8. #7
    All Terrain
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    Stick with the oem Delco unit. The Dorman unit I used failed at 4500, the warranty one lasted another 3000. I just quit buying anything that isn't a Declco oem replacement, not because i'm rich I just get tired of fixing the same thing over and over with craptastic import junk parts.
    06 H3 Adv - Great, another project.
    09 H3T Alpha/Adv- Sold

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to Traxx For This Useful Post:

    RamRod (11-04-2019)

  10. #8
    Super Swamper
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traxx View Post
    Stick with the oem Delco unit. The Dorman unit I used failed at 4500, the warranty one lasted another 3000. I just quit buying anything that isn't a Declco oem replacement, not because i'm rich I just get tired of fixing the same thing over and over with craptastic import junk parts.
    I have gone through a similar battle with crappy import parts... takes time to learn some lessons I guess!

    Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
    2009 Hummer H3T Alpha
    4 Rancho Lift, 37x12.5x17 BFG A/Ts, Method "The Standard" rims, Magnuson Supercharger, Magnaflow exhaust, 50" LED light bar, Thor Parts rear bumper w/ swing out for full-sized spare, Hidden 9,500 lb Superwinch, Custom Sliders, Custom aluminum bed rack & matching roof rack

    www.ministryofadventure.ca

  11. #9
    Street Tire
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    Agreed on OEM or Delco parts.

    I didn't see AC Delco CVs on Rock Auto. Only the aftermarket units.
    Jeepwalker

    '07 H3 Advent/Lux
    Jeep XJ, ZJ, WJ
    Ram & GMC 4x4's
    Toyota Hilux

  12. #10
    Bogger
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepwalker View Post
    Agreed on OEM or Delco parts.

    I didn't see AC Delco CVs on Rock Auto. Only the aftermarket units.
    Have to get the whole front prop shaft for AcDelco, but it's only a hundred or so more than the Dorman CV. I feel like the Dorman is fine to keep as a trail spare to get you home if the original breaks.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    2008 H3 Alpha

    "Live free or die: Death is not the worst of evils." - General John Stark

    N1JPA


 

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