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Seat cover replacement

H3ALPHA

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Location
Los Angeles
Hi, looking to replace a seat cover on the drivers side.

The part is in stock (OEM), but anyone have any idea how to remove the old seat cover and install the new one?

Thanks in advance.
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,173
Location
massachusetts
Hi, looking to replace a seat cover on the drivers side.

The part is in stock (OEM), but anyone have any idea how to remove the old seat cover and install the new one?

Thanks in advance.
Yes it is pretty easy after you do it once:

Unbolt seat then unplug from truck

Place on a clear table and remove head rest and headrest pieces that slide into seat body.

It takes some force but careful pop the top of the plastic seat back cover out from the seat.

The bottom is held in by pieces that click on to the round "bar stock" material at the bottom of the seat back. You need to pull up and out carefully to release. If you can reach hand down and pry apart it makes it less likely to break.

Remove the plastic side cover on the seat bottom from around the controls. You need to take the recline handle off, one front pushpin and a small screw in the back.

Unplug the heated seat element (green plug) from the seat back to the seat bottom

On the seat back there are a few obvious pieces of the material with plastic clips that stretch the leather around and onto the metal bar stock frame. Pop that off and you can pull the leather to the front.

Now with a set of diagonal cutters, carefully cut the hog nose rings that attached the leather to the foam. This will fully release the leather from the seat.

You need to purchase a set of upholstery hog nose ring pliers and a bag of hog nose rings and then install leather in reverse.

Do same on bottom cushion.

*Tips I highly suggest getting a steamer to steam the foam as it brings it back to the correct shape.

I also would go ahead and purchase a new foam seat bottom as every seat I have done in an h3 has been ruined on the driver side where you slide over. Heated seat element can easily be swapped to new cushion with 3M adhesive.
 

H3ALPHA

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Location
Los Angeles
Yes it is pretty easy after you do it once:

Unbolt seat then unplug from truck

Place on a clear table and remove head rest and headrest pieces that slide into seat body.

It takes some force but careful pop the top of the plastic seat back cover out from the seat.

The bottom is held in by pieces that click on to the round "bar stock" material at the bottom of the seat back. You need to pull up and out carefully to release. If you can reach hand down and pry apart it makes it less likely to break.

Remove the plastic side cover on the seat bottom from around the controls. You need to take the recline handle off, one front pushpin and a small screw in the back.

Unplug the heated seat element (green plug) from the seat back to the seat bottom

On the seat back there are a few obvious pieces of the material with plastic clips that stretch the leather around and onto the metal bar stock frame. Pop that off and you can pull the leather to the front.

Now with a set of diagonal cutters, carefully cut the hog nose rings that attached the leather to the foam. This will fully release the leather from the seat.

You need to purchase a set of upholstery hog nose ring pliers and a bag of hog nose rings and then install leather in reverse.

Do same on bottom cushion.

*Tips I highly suggest getting a steamer to steam the foam as it brings it back to the correct shape.

I also would go ahead and purchase a new foam seat bottom as every seat I have done in an h3 has been ruined on the driver side where you slide over. Heated seat element can easily be swapped to new cushion with 3M adhesive.

The closest I've come to seeing what I think you are describing is this video. Is it close to what I can expect?

[video=youtube;x7gAYDzmPtE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7gAYDzmPtE[/video]
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
It's harder than it looks. It takes a pretty good grip to stretch the material properly and get it to lay right. It's kind of an art. I recovered the seats in my old '69 Firebird many years ago. It's one of those things that practice makes perfect.
 

H3ALPHA

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Location
Los Angeles
It's harder than it looks. It takes a pretty good grip to stretch the material properly and get it to lay right. It's kind of an art. I recovered the seats in my old '69 Firebird many years ago. It's one of those things that practice makes perfect.

Believe you are 100% correct.

Might need to seek out a pro on this.

What should I look for?
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,173
Location
massachusetts
This isn't a 69 firebird...

I've done this and promise you it's really easy just take your time. The H3 seat was designed to be assembled quickly and efficiently on an assembly line.
 

H3ALPHA

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Location
Los Angeles
This isn't a 69 firebird...

I've done this and promise you it's really easy just take your time. The H3 seat was designed to be assembled quickly and efficiently on an assembly line.

OK, swayed to a degree.

So, I want to buy the OEM from GM, which is available.

The upper part of the seat (back) is my main motivation, but am concerned that the bottom of the seat will look aged, do you recommend simply replacing both?
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,173
Location
massachusetts
OK, swayed to a degree.

So, I want to buy the OEM from GM, which is available.

The upper part of the seat (back) is my main motivation, but am concerned that the bottom of the seat will look aged, do you recommend simply replacing both?
I'd replace both. Leather color seems to slightly vary on these from what I've seen, especially if it's worn vs new.
 

H3ALPHA

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Location
Los Angeles
I'd replace both. Leather color seems to slightly vary on these from what I've seen, especially if it's worn vs new.

With that said, then should I simply do both front seats entirely?

The passenger seat is in good shape, but concerned the new one might stick out like a sore thumb.
 

MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
805
Location
Alabama
OK, swayed to a degree.

So, I want to buy the OEM from GM, which is available.

The upper part of the seat (back) is my main motivation, but am concerned that the bottom of the seat will look aged, do you recommend simply replacing both?

I just bought a new driver side bottom and arm rest cover for my H2 on eBay. Haven’t had time to install yet but it matches well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
874
Location
WI
My brother's re-done seats for several late 60's Mustangs he's restored. He's not an upholsterer by any stretch, and I had my doubts. But I have to admit they all turned out great and not a single wrinkle in them. In fact at one car show, the Mustang owner next to us was asking him who put his seats together ..and proceeded to tell us how he'd spent a ton to get his installed, and they were full of wrinkles. My brother didn't use any steamer ..but a hair drier in a few places. Let the covers sit out in the warm sun to warm up. I've personally only installed one set on a classic Ford years ago, and they turned out nice too. I have had other seat covers off newer vehicles to weld up broken seat frames. Modern cars seem a little easier, but I haven't had to dig into H3 seats so IDK how they go on. One of these days I need to put a new seat cover (and new foam) on my pickup, so I'll soon get a chance to re-live the fun!

My point is, if you have a fair amt of aptitude, take your time and work carefully, you should be able to do it too. And if a certain area doesn't quite turn out like you want, you can undo the hog rings and re-tension that area. It's not like anything you do can't be undone and re-positioned. There are a lot of videos on the subject.
 
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Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
It is easy to replace the covers, I've done it least half a dozen times in a 3. You need a good pair of diagonal cutters and some hog ring pliers. Pay attention to where the rings are located as you will want to try and get them back as close as you can to avoid wrinkles.

Or take it to an upholsterer, they would probably charge 3-4 hours labor to do both. The older I get the more I see the value in paying somebody else while I go goof off instead.
 

f5moab

Mr. Beretta
Messages
1,986
Location
Hiding in a potato patch in Idaho
This isn't a 69 firebird...

I've done this and promise you it's really easy just take your time. The H3 seat was designed to be assembled quickly and efficiently on an assembly line.

Seat covers are designed to be assembled quickly...yes. But seats assemblies themselves are not on as assembly line. The entire assembly from the supplier is just a pop into the vehicle and connections.

Cover to cushions are assembled by one person at a supplier plant (believe H3 was Lear but that could change at any time during a vehicle's production), then the cushions are installed to the seat. Driver seat is easier than passenger due to no supplemental restraint membrane. However, you are correct, they are NOT hard to do (cushion and assembly install), and a good pair of hog ring pliers will be your friend.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
Turn the covers inside out ahead of the install. Then pull them on like a sock on your foot. It’s much easier to roll the new cover down over the foam, than to try to slide it down. If they’re leather, lay them in the sun for a couple hours to make them more pliable.
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
You have several differing opinions on this subject. I mentioned my '69 Firebird because I think the seats would've been easier on that car than the Hummer. One item that was mentioned was if the material wasn't laying right you can cut the hog ring and reposition the material. That's part of the process. I would recommend getting a small bolt cutter to cut the hog rings. The hog rings I used were harder than nails and a set of diag cutters just wouldn't cut through them easily.
 

Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
A set of Knipex high leverage diagonal cutters cut right through them. I'd imagine a 6" standard cutters would be like doing a grip strength gauntlet though.
 

H3ALPHA

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Location
Los Angeles
So this is where I am at.

Contacted an upholsterer.

He wants $650-$750 per seat. Unclear at the moment whether they will match the seat with their own materials as I do not think they will source OEM.

So, $1500 on the top end for both.

If I order the covers (OEM), they come to $858.88 (this is for both front seats).

I can't imagine it would cost $600 to install? Could it?

As for me doing it myself.

So I get the seat out. I have some invision screens in the headrest. What will I have to do to remove them?

Do I also separate the top part of the seat from the cushion part to put these on?

Sorry for all the questions, but this not something I have ever done before.
 
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Jeepwalker

Well-Known Member
Messages
874
Location
WI
I can't imagine it would cost $600 to install? Could it?


$1,500 for leather sounds about right if he's making them new from scratch. You're talking leather, right? There's no guarantee on the match. They can get swatches and get as close as they can get. One advantage of buying new from an upholsterer is you could consider different leathers (like sued inserts for the front).

$600/seat to install is a, "I really don't want to screw with that job - price". Unless he meant $600 for the pair. That wouldn't be unreasonable. Personally I'd buy OEM and put on yourself. Watch a bunch of youtube videos. It's not Rocket Surgery. Jump into the project, git er dun ..keep plugging along until you get it perfect. Don't get lazy because you want to watch basketball ...and settle for a half-assed job -- it'll always look half-assed. Then show us the fine finished product!!

Also, you're assuming by taking it to an upholsterer to install, you're going to get back a seat cover that's 100% perfectly fitted ..that may or may not be the case. Having been active in the classic car world, I've seen several whack-jobs where guys paid a lot of money for half-assed work. How would you like to pay a guy $600 only to get it back with wrinkles?! Then you say to the guy, "Hey, is there any way to get out the wrinkles?" ..and he says, "We tried the best we could, but that's how they were made ...they should work themselves out after a while." (you're forever bummed, or you get up the gumption and fix it yourself in 2 hours ...and wonder why you paid the $$ in the first place). If I were an upholsterer with a shop and an apprentice helper, guess what (?), I'd put the $12/hr newbie helper on the pre-made easy-to-do GM OEM-made seat cover job while I sew away at the custom higher-paid work I promised would be finished two months ago! Installing OEM-quality seat covers would be the easiest task an upholster could do! It would be like changing oil for a mechanic. So, of course, you put your new guy on that job, he can hardly screw it up. Plus, ...like a good mechanic changing oil is kind of a waste of their talent and time, there's not much challenge in installing OEM seat covers for an experience upholsterer who takes pride in their custom work (and these guys DO take pride in their work). You could call around to other shops if you really don't want to do it yourself.

Really good upholsterers are almost always busy b/c there are so few of them ..who are excellent. And often they can't get to you for a while and they're not cheap. And this is the wrong time of year too b/c all the classic car guys want their cars done for the summer car show and cruise season. It's hectic right now. Maybe yer guy is one of those really good shops.

Usually the good upholsterers have rather odd hippie-like personalities and are kind of touchy to do business with, you'll find. Doing solitaire work suits them well. Dealing with these guys takes a special tact that not every customer is successful with. Not having to deal with that aspect alone would make me want to try my hand at installing pre-manufactured OEM quality seat covers (ha, ha!!). If they say, they should be done in a week, hopefully you'll get it back by the end of the month.

In some larger metropolitan areas you sometimes find organized shops who have several upholsterers and older ladies sewing in stages ...almost like a factory. These can be great places. They usually do work for shops, restorers and dealerships who need to operate on a good schedule and price/value basis. If you can find a shop like that, they should be a lot cheaper for new and install, and not make you wait for weeks or months. There used to be a shop like that around here I used a couple times. Great work. Owner had a heart attack and they closed down after that.

Good luck :whaa:
 
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Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
Wow 650-*750 a seat to install covers lol? Just get a set of Katzkins at that price, better leather that doesn't turn to plastic in a few years. If you can use a screwdriver and pliers then you can do it yourself. You don't need to separate the seat. Usually the drivers cushion is worn and they run around 50$.
 

SlcHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
368
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
I don't think H3ALPHA was saying someone quoted him $600 to install OEM covers but rather that is the cost difference between the custom seat covers and the OEM covers, and he probably didnt want to buy the OEM covers if install would be > $600.
 

H3ALPHA

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Location
Los Angeles
No the install per seat would be $150 per.

For the upholsterer to make seats from scratch which would include the install, would be $650-$750 per seat.

I want to keep my H3 OEM, but the only cover that is no longer available is the passenger cushion cover.
 

MilamJR

Well-Known Member
Messages
805
Location
Alabama
If you do it yourself you will need to get some hog ring pliers and for an H2 you need deep well star sockets as well. You will need to factor that cost in if you don’t have them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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