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Special key???

I[OIIIIIIIO]I

Active Member
Messages
43
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
I went to the GM dealer today to have a key cut for the H3 using the VIN.

Guy at the counter told me he would have to special order the key.

I thought the H3 just used a standard key like on most every other GM from the same time.

Funny they have a blank at the local hardware store but not the dealer. I figured they would have a hundred of them but what do I know.

I kinda got the impression the counter guy was being lazy. LOL!
 

atvspeed4

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,173
Location
massachusetts
I[OIIIIIIIO]I;230265 said:
I went to the GM dealer today to have a key cut for the H3 using the VIN.

Guy at the counter told me he would have to special order the key.

I thought the H3 just used a standard key like on most every other GM from the same time.

Funny they have a blank at the local hardware store but not the dealer. I figured they would have a hundred of them but what do I know.

I kinda got the impression the counter guy was being lazy. LOL!

Nothing special about the key other than a lot of dealers have been using up stock of H3 parts and not keeping them on hand.
 

scoreh3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,024
Location
SoCal
I had a spare key made at the local hardware store without any issues ( well it does have a bow tie on it, not H3) for like $5. It’s not a chipped key like my F150 that costs $50 .
 
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JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,401
Location
Way up north, UT
I think if you want one that has the H3 embossed in the plastic it'll cost you a lot, but any bog standard GM key from the same year works fine, there is no chip or anything in them, that is all contained within the ignition switch.
 

Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
Hummer tax on a key is ridiculous. It's just a standard 5$ key at the hardware store.
 

I[OIIIIIIIO]I

Active Member
Messages
43
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Problem is I need a VIN cut key as my other two attempts resulted in keys that wouldn't work. I think my original is too worn out to copy.

I think $20 is not bad but I'm sure the key will have a bowtie on it not a H3.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,401
Location
Way up north, UT
I[OIIIIIIIO]I;230281 said:
Problem is I need a VIN cut key as my other two attempts resulted in keys that wouldn't work. I think my original is too worn out to copy.

I think $20 is not bad but I'm sure the key will have a bowtie on it not a H3.
$20 for a VIN cut key seems reasonable to me. If it was just a copy of another key then that would be too much.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

2010H3TAlpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
563
Location
Issaquah, WA
My brother was the parts manager at a local GM dealer, so any time I brought my truck in for any work, he would show me how they did everything. I learned a lot, especially about how security is handled differently between each of GM’s brands. This was a few years ago, so full disclosure as I might be missing some of the details.

Like Cadillac, the OEM Hummer key uses a harder metal to give the key teeth better longevity. Other GM brands may now use the harder metals, but when our rigs were new there was a notable difference. If anyone plans to purchase an OEM key, make sure the dealer has an updated key cutting machine onsite. It will be approved by GM for cutting Cadillac keys, or you could take it to a Cadillac dealer to be cut. If this happens, ask the dealer to ask the Caddy dealer for a courtesy cut. Before my brother left that dealership, he told me that all GM dealers were slowly updating to the new machines. I’ll try to remember to look for my receipts tonight, but I am pretty sure I paid $60 for the OEM key with my brother’s employee discount, so it is worth trying to talk them down, especially if you are paying to program new fobs at same time (or any other work they can use to support the discount). Most of you probably already program all of your fobs at once because it requires a Tech 2 and shop labor. I seem to remember the first fob programmed becomes the master fob, and it is the only fob that can be used to reprogram any other ”smart” device that is part of the security system (ECM, BCM, ignition, etc. I am not sure about the TCM). Our keys are not chipped, so to match the security of a chipped key, they put the chip in the fob instead. Does anyone know why GM defines a primary fob? I‘d love to know the story behind it.

If anyone is planning a key and fob refresh, I recommend making 5 keys:

2 masters stored in two different safe & secure locations (safe deposit box in a bank, nearby close family’s house in a secured safe, etc.).
1 primary on a fob for every day use
1 secondary on a fob for every day backup (If I am running late and don’t have time to look for my keys, I can grab the backup. But then I need to make sure to locate my primary set and replace the backup set when I return home)
1 hidden backup somewhere on the vehicle (with a fob so the security system can be disabled in case the primary set is lost while traveling).
Keep inventory on them on a regular basis

One or both masters can be hardware store keys as long as they are created from an OEM key. I replace my primary key from the hardware store every few years to avoid being stranded if/when the teeth were to ever wear down enough to not operate the ignition. This replacement habit of mine is probably a little extreme, but I am a big fan of being pro-active with anything related to security.

Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,447
Location
Scottsdale
The H3 can be operated without a fob. My H3 was delivered without fobs as they misplaced them; got them a day later. Passlock does not read any chips in a key or fob.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
Holy cow I feel unprepared now, I just keep one in my pocket and the other set in the toolbox.



My brother was the parts manager at a local GM dealer, so any time I brought my truck in for any work, he would show me how they did everything. I learned a lot, especially about how security is handled differently between each of GM’s brands. This was a few years ago, so full disclosure as I might be missing some of the details.

Like Cadillac, the OEM Hummer key uses a harder metal to give the key teeth better longevity. Other GM brands may now use the harder metals, but when our rigs were new there was a notable difference. If anyone plans to purchase an OEM key, make sure the dealer has an updated key cutting machine onsite. It will be approved by GM for cutting Cadillac keys, or you could take it to a Cadillac dealer to be cut. If this happens, ask the dealer to ask the Caddy dealer for a courtesy cut. Before my brother left that dealership, he told me that all GM dealers were slowly updating to the new machines. I’ll try to remember to look for my receipts tonight, but I am pretty sure I paid $60 for the OEM key with my brother’s employee discount, so it is worth trying to talk them down, especially if you are paying to program new fobs at same time (or any other work they can use to support the discount). Most of you probably already program all of your fobs at once because it requires a Tech 2 and shop labor. I seem to remember the first fob programmed becomes the master fob, and it is the only fob that can be used to reprogram any other ”smart” device that is part of the security system (ECM, BCM, ignition, etc. I am not sure about the TCM). Our keys are not chipped, so to match the security of a chipped key, they put the chip in the fob instead. Does anyone know why GM defines a primary fob? I‘d love to know the story behind it.

If anyone is planning a key and fob refresh, I recommend making 5 keys:

2 masters stored in two different safe & secure locations (safe deposit box in a bank, nearby close family’s house in a secured safe, etc.).
1 primary on a fob for every day use
1 secondary on a fob for every day backup (If I am running late and don’t have time to look for my keys, I can grab the backup. But then I need to make sure to locate my primary set and replace the backup set when I return home)
1 hidden backup somewhere on the vehicle (with a fob so the security system can be disabled in case the primary set is lost while traveling).
Keep inventory on them on a regular basis

One or both masters can be hardware store keys as long as they are created from an OEM key. I replace my primary key from the hardware store every few years to avoid being stranded if/when the teeth were to ever wear down enough to not operate the ignition. This replacement habit of mine is probably a little extreme, but I am a big fan of being pro-active with anything related to security.

Hope this helps.
 

2010H3TAlpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
563
Location
Issaquah, WA
The H3 can be operated without a fob. My H3 was delivered without fobs as they misplaced them; got them a day later. Passlock does not read any chips in a key or fob.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Yep, I was able to finally test it last night, and you are right (or I have so much of Passlock disabled via HPTuners that you could probably just hotwire my truck). It did do a funky double honk, but still lets you start and drive.

Holy cow I feel unprepared now, I just keep one in my pocket and the other set in the toolbox.

I finally learned my lesson when I had to break a window on a previous car. Who knew the smallest window on that car was almost as expensive as the windshield.

Hopefully it was the last window I'll ever need to break (knock on wood). I usually do everything with overkill, and at the very least I would add a key hidden on the truck somewhere. I have been very surprised with the amount of times I have used it (for example, if I'm away from camp with the keys in a friend's rig, and someone needs to get into the truck, or it allows me to lock my primary keys in my truck when I kayak (my worst fear is losing keys at sea and then being stranded hours away from home).
 
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Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
When we kayak I put the keys and phone in an Otterbox container, They are waterproof and float.


Yep, I was able to finally test it last night, and you are right (or I have so much of Passlock disabled via HPTuners that you could probably just hotwire my truck). It did do a funky double honk, but still lets you start and drive.



I finally learned my lesson when I had to break a window on a previous car. Who knew the smallest window on that car was almost as expensive as the windshield.

Hopefully it was the last window I'll ever need to break (knock on wood). I usually do everything with overkill, and at the very least I would add a key hidden on the truck somewhere. I have been very surprised with the amount of times I have used it (for example, if I'm away from camp with the keys in a friend's rig, and someone needs to get into the truck, or it allows me to lock my primary keys in my truck when I kayak (my worst fear is losing keys at sea and then being stranded hours away from home).
 
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