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What to do next? Lots of questions!

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
Ok. I set my time. I’m gonna get the new cooper discoverer at3 xlt in a 315/75/16. They are new so there’s not a lot of reviews on them but they seem pretty good. Decent tread at 17/32”. Four tires and an alignment will run me 1100. The spare tire will be purchased when I do my first rotation. I’m super pumped. Tires will be installed Tuesday morning while I’m in class.

Now what suspension to get? I cranked my torsion bars to level it out. I’ve been looking at putting on the bilsteins 5100 on all corners. Do I need to do anything different since I cranked the bars? Or can I just do a swap? I want to increase ride quality yet be able to handle anything off-road. So bilsteins or fox or what? I’m not gonna say money is no problem but I’m allowed to get what I want. Input?
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,580
Location
Bellflower, CA
Buy the 5th tire now, don't wait. If you get a flat tire you will not be able to put your spare on without damaging your diff. The money you spend on shocks is better served on the spare. There is no more suspensions to buy, Rancho and Rough Country no longer make lift kits. T bar crank and/or a 1 inch body lift are your only options unless you go SAS.
 

Burtor

Well-Known Member
Messages
55
Location
Michigan
Thanks for all the tips guys! I have classes all day so this evening I’m gonna remove the current encoder Motor and do my tests on it and the transfer case.

Has as anyone used the dorman 600-908 as a replacement before? I saw on one thread that power was backwards causing it to rotate in the wrong direction. Is this true? I can switch the pins or something if needed. Just trying to make plans before I hear things apart. I’ve been reaservhing the crap out it but I can’t find exactly what I need. Maybe I don’t know what I need.

How much do the pcm tunes cost? How long will the car be out of commission while that gets done?

That was me with the Doorman 600-908. I replaced my stock transfer case motor because it was seized up from corrosion or something.
On my 2007 H3, the power leads to the motor on the doorman unit were reverse from what they needed to be. I was getting all sorts of errors on the dash whenever I would try to shift between modes, but then I swapped the leads and it has worked ever since. I even bought another ECM (GM 24236866) to troubleshoot it before I figured it out.

As you probably already read, you can do all the testing of the encoder motors when they're not even on the vehicle. You just plug them in underneath and can hit the dash buttons and watch for errors. No errors? Great, you're done and can bolt it on the rest of the way.

The encoder motor and ECM will never know if your shift fork is broken, you'll notice when your vehicle is chirping around corners and exploding diffs.

Buy the 5th tire now, don't wait. If you get a flat tire you will not be able to put your spare on without damaging your diff. The money you spend on shocks is better served on the spare. There is no more suspensions to buy, Rancho and Rough Country no longer make lift kits. T bar crank and/or a 1 inch body lift are your only options unless you go SAS.

I'll second buying all 5 at once, then rotating them out evenly. I have 33" Duratracs and they are both quiet on the highway and fantastic in the snow and offroad. Your gas mileage will drop a bit from stock tires, but hey, mpgs are not why you bought the HUMMER.
 

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
That was me with the Doorman 600-908. I replaced my stock transfer case motor because it was seized up from corrosion or something.
On my 2007 H3, the power leads to the motor on the doorman unit were reverse from what they needed to be. I was getting all sorts of errors on the dash whenever I would try to shift between modes, but then I swapped the leads and it has worked ever since. I even bought another ECM (GM 24236866) to troubleshoot it before I figured it out.

As you probably already read, you can do all the testing of the encoder motors when they're not even on the vehicle. You just plug them in underneath and can hit the dash buttons and watch for errors. No errors? Great, you're done and can bolt it on the rest of the way.

The encoder motor and ECM will never know if your shift fork is broken, you'll notice when your vehicle is chirping around corners and exploding diffs.



I'll second buying all 5 at once, then rotating them out evenly. I have 33" Duratracs and they are both quiet on the highway and fantastic in the snow and offroad. Your gas mileage will drop a bit from stock tires, but hey, mpgs are not why you bought the HUMMER.

Thanks for letting me know about your experience with the dorman!! It’s good to have some reassurance about it. I guess I’ll pull the trigger and get 5. Should I do anything to the tailgate to hold reinforce it for the weight or is it good to go? 315s won’t fit in my tire case will it? Hmmmm. What to do.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,580
Location
Bellflower, CA
The rear door will hold it no problem. I think there are owners here with 37's and maybe one with a 40". Ditch the tire case and show your 35's with pride.
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
The rear door will hold it no problem. I think there are owners here with 37's and maybe one with a 40". Ditch the tire case and show your 35's with pride.

I have a 38in tire on the back of mine with no modifications to the tail gate. It is a Toyo M/T 38-13.5-18. Weights 127lbs with my beadlock wheel. Because of the diameter of the tire, it would not fit on all three lug nuts, so I am only using the top two studs on the tire carrier to hold it. Working pretty good! Fits snug and doesn't get in the way of my gobi ladder. Your wheel offset will affect results of how far the tire sticks out.

i-GGqxzb6-X5.jpg



i-XVq9bwn-X5.jpg



i-LZ38S5s-X5.jpg
 

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
The rear door will hold it no problem. I think there are owners here with 37's and maybe one with a 40". Ditch the tire case and show your 35's with pride.

With pride. Love it. Gonna pull the trigger on the 5th now too! Good call guys. I was thinking about it all night. I have a decision making problem. Lol. I’m to indecisive.
 

crwalkerasla

Well-Known Member
Messages
313
Location
Corinth, MS
Before you pull the trigger on the AT3s, look at the Cooper ST MAXX, 10 ply kevlar. A hybrid pattern between AT and MT, little bit more aggressive than the AT3, good in everything that I have thrown at them, no louder than my Magnaflow Exhaust, and I currently have over 65Kmi on mine and they still have over 1/3 the tread.
 

crwalkerasla

Well-Known Member
Messages
313
Location
Corinth, MS
During my checking, I read reviews that the AT3s tread life was in the 40-50K range. That is why I opted for the other. They look better too.
 

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
During my checking, I read reviews that the AT3s tread life was in the 40-50K range. That is why I opted for the other. They look better too.

These are the new XLTs. They just came out few months ago. They have a 60k mile warranty on them. But I’ll look into the st Maxx. Thanks!
 

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
I think I also want to add a spacer to the wheels. Just like a 1”. Are there things I should avoid when doing that?
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
I think I also want to add a spacer to the wheels. Just like a 1”. Are there things I should avoid when doing that?

Get Hubcentric spacers. DO NOT BUY EBAY/AMAZON Universal $70 Spacers. They are garbage. I bought the ebay ones first and I hated them. On top of that, I broke 5 wheel studs and I couldn't get replacements because the seller I bought them from didn't know anything about them. He was just a reseller. They were a no-name brand and the guy selling them just called them "RANK". Also 1in spacers will not work because your original wheel studs will out, past the spacer. However they would work if you have wheels that holes in the back that allow the wheel studs to stick past. The minimum you can do is 1.25 inches. I just got my spacers from BORA (Bulletproof Off Road Adapters) and they are great! Here is a graphic for comparison I made:



i-KcWZLCg-X3.jpg
 

amrg

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,317
Location
Qatar
I got the cooper at3s, had them on my 3 since Dec 2012 and they were june 2012 production.
Got 70K on them and they still have another 20K
Used em probably 100 times offroad, aired down to 7 psi and banging them in the desert and dunes between 30 and 70 mph, never punctured and didnt have balancing issues ever.
Never had to rebalance them after each offroad trip (usually 50 miles)
The ST max looks better but the weight increase hurts performance!

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
Getting four today had to order the other.

I can’t believe how awesome these things look!

*whats the best way to do photos?*

1hr edit** tire place called and said “buddy, I don’t think these are gonna fit under here.” I said they should fit. It can handle 35s at stock and I’m gonna put a one inch lift on anyways. “Ummm. Ok. If you say.”
 
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BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
Didn’t get to really test out the tires yesterday but maybe it was a good thing. Today while driving I could hear a ticking noise coming from outside the car. It starts when I start accelerating and goes away once I get up some speed. Then when I’m stopping I can hear the noise again. I don’t feel feedback in the pedals or wheel either. What should I check. I did some googling and one thing seems to be the cv axle. Thoughts?
 

2010H3TAlpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
563
Location
Issaquah, WA
Yeah that sounds like it could be CV. Can you hear it at very low speed so someone can walk beside it and hear which side it is coming from? Did you check all CV boots? Our CVs are usually great until a boot rips.
 

Acer4LO

Well-Known Member
Messages
750
Location
Illinois
Didn’t get to really test out the tires yesterday but maybe it was a good thing. Today while driving I could hear a ticking noise coming from outside the car. It starts when I start accelerating and goes away once I get up some speed. Then when I’m stopping I can hear the noise again. I don’t feel feedback in the pedals or wheel either. What should I check. I did some googling and one thing seems to be the cv axle. Thoughts?

It might be the driveshaft making that noise. Just had this happen to my friend. An easy way to determine is to have a friend shift into drive and reverse. You look under the H3 at the front drive shaft. When they shift it, check to see if the drive shaft moves up or down an inch or two. If so, that is your problem.
 

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
I’ve been searching all over tank for something visibly wrong. Nada. Everything looks like it should. At least to me. Boots aren’t damaged and nothing is leaking. Been going all over google trying to find a problem too. It sounds like a cv is bad.
Heres the funny thing. Noise stopped today. Wtf? I’m not complaining. Let’s move on! Shocks will get ordered next week.
 

2010H3TAlpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
563
Location
Issaquah, WA
I’ve been searching all over tank for something visibly wrong. Nada. Everything looks like it should. At least to me. Boots aren’t damaged and nothing is leaking. Been going all over google trying to find a problem too. It sounds like a cv is bad.
Heres the funny thing. Noise stopped today. Wtf? I’m not complaining. Let’s move on! Shocks will get ordered next week.

Have you tried it in 4low? I was able to get mine to click REALLY loud in 4 low up a hill. It wasn't as pronounced in 4hi on flat ground, but I also had a ripped boot.
 

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
Have you tried it in 4low? I was able to get mine to click REALLY loud in 4 low up a hill. It wasn't as pronounced in 4hi on flat ground, but I also had a ripped boot.
I have not tried it in 4lo yet. I need to take my switch out and clean it up. I still get the serv 4wd message and I know it’s the switch. When I push the buttons I have to apply a decent amount of force just to get them to light up. It’d be easier to just replace but I can’t seem to find one for an affordable price.
 

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
Learned somethings today. I replaced the passenger side cv based on two reasons. 1. The noise was coming from predominantly the passenger side. 2. I found the most grease on the edge of the boot on that side.
Heres what I learned. Replacing that cv did not make it stop. It might be the driveshaft.
The sound responds to my acceleration whether it’s in reverse or drive. It sounds like a ratcheting of some sorts and then a clanking noise. Almost like something is building up and then falling down.
I cant jack up the whole vehicle yet but I did find that I can wiggle (with force) the cv joint that hides on the other side of the protector plate.
It definitely sounds like the noise is coming from the line of axis of the driveshaft. I’m gonna run it down to a friends place tomorrow who is a mechanic and hopefully get some info.
 

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
Problem has been diagnosed as a bad cv joint on the driveshaft. New one has been ordered. These fixes are eating into my budget.
 
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