H3 MMW H3 Adjustable Tubular UCA Installation Problem

I have recently purchase a set of MMW H3 Adjustable Tubular UCA for my 2008 H3 Adventure paying a fortune shipping it to Malaysia and is finding that it is impossible to have the abnormal excessive positive camber angle adjusted after installation of the new UCA to normal negative angle with my old standard that was all find for normal H3 alignment setup. Any advise what to do to fix this problem that I am having sleepless night now trying to figure out a solution

I have notice some of the camber adjustment bolt guide pins on the UCA bushing mounting well are broken off and missing and I guess this is part of the problem for not being able to make proper adjustment with the camber nut and I am getting these missing guide pins machine and fixed now before attempting to make another shot on alignment adjustment.

My H3 suspension setup for the front is 23 1/2” torsion bar crank up for levelling + 1” body lift and rear is with a extended length shackle installed to get the slight rake angle with rear higher.






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ChihuahuaRide said:

I have recently purchase a set of MMW H3 Adjustable Tubular UCA for my 2008 H3 Adventure paying a fortune shipping it to Malaysia and is finding that it is impossible to have the abnormal excessive positive camber angle adjusted after installation of the new UCA to normal negative angle with my old standard that was all find for normal H3 alignment setup. Any advise what to do to fix this problem that I am having sleepless night now trying to figure out a solution

I have notice some of the camber adjustment bolt guide pins on the UCA bushing mounting well are broken off and missing and I guess this is part of the problem for not being able to make proper adjustment with the camber nut and I am getting these missing guide pins machine and fixed now before attempting to make another shot on alignment adjustment.

My H3 suspension setup for the front is 23 1/2” torsion bar crank up for levelling + 1” body lift and rear is with a extended length shackle installed to get the slight rake angle with rear higher.

View attachment 23457


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The heim joints have a jam nut, take the arm off and loosen the jam nut and spin them into the arm further then retighten the jam nut. They allow you to have much more range than just using the alignment cams.

I just had the same problem in Moab with the alignment pins breaking or falling out after getting an alignment there and the shop did not tighten two of the alignment nuts. What a pain and it usually damages the hole that they press into. I would advise again machining new ones unless the shop you use can add the knurl to the shoulder as that is all that holds them in. They are a common wear item you can get most places:
https://www.carid.com/moog/front-alignment-cam-guide-pin-mpn-k6716.html

atvspeed4 said:

The heim joints have a jam nut, take the arm off and loosen the jam nut and spin them into the arm further then retighten the jam nut. They allow you to have much more range than just using the alignment cams.

I just had the same problem in Moab with the alignment pins breaking or falling out after getting an alignment there and the shop did not tighten two of the alignment nuts. What a pain and it usually damages the hole that they press into. I would advise again machining new ones unless the shop you use can add the knurl to the shoulder as that is all that holds them in. They are a common wear item you can get most places:
https://www.carid.com/moog/front-alignment-cam-guide-pin-mpn-k6716.html

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advise above I was informed by the tech working on my car that they have try turning the heim joints inward further to shorten the adjustable tubular arms to get more out of the camber adjustment but to achieved negative camber setting but to no success on this, again this unsuccessful try maybe is caused by the broken camber adjustment guide pin missing so when the camber nut is turn it does move the camber at all I guess ! So I will have the camber guide pin put back in place and adjust the heim joints myself personally when it is installed back into position.

Is the following the alignment data I found on hummerforums for H3 (RHD) accurate to be used ?

2008 Hummer H3 (RHD)

Caster +/- 1.0 Degree

Left 3.10º
Right 2.80º

Cross Caster (L/R) +/- 0.6 Degree

0.30º

Camber +/- 0.6 degree

Left 0.00º
Right 0.00º

Cross Camber (L/R) +/- 0.6 Degree

0.00º

Total Toe +/- 0.20 Degree

0.10º

Steering Wheel Angle +/- 3.5 Degree

1.00º

Hope someone can confirm the accuracy of the above data so I can have them input into the alignment machines which I am having doubt that my tech is not used to having alignment done on Hummers is using a wrong set of data which maybe completely wrong on setting up the H3 alignment at the right track.


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Had no idea these were even available. Just checked out the web site info on em.

From Les Schwab two days ago


Hope it helps

Got new Moog Camber Guide Pins replaced on the upper arm mounting wall on the frame and new Moog Camber Bolts & Nuts with Guide replaced and had the MMW adjustable tubular upper arm installed properly and final alignment setup as following:

Any comments in the alignment setup on camber and caster value, I have try to get the following caster setup:

Caster +/- 1.0 Degree

Left 3.10º
Right 2.80º

Cross Caster (L/R) +/- 0.6 Degree

0.30º

but was not able to setup it up as per value so just set at the above photo indicated value which is actually used for a H2 ! The ride drive ok on highway at 60MPH no vibration or drifting to one side when the steering wheel is left without hands on for 5 sec !


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How have the MMW control arms held up after a year and a half? I am ready to replace my 3rd set of Dorman ones from Amazon. Tires of alignment and ball joints going out.

Dowsnt MMW sell a flat plate design? Iirc its cheaper, has poly bushings instead of heims (which are better for onroad), the mounts are wider than stock making it tighter, and uses the same upgraded balljoint as the tubular one.

amrg said:

Dowsnt MMW sell a flat plate design? Iirc its cheaper, has poly bushings instead of heims (which are better for onroad), the mounts are wider than stock making it tighter, and uses the same upgraded balljoint as the tubular one.

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It's not an upgraded balljoint...it's just a uniball with cap and adapter pin

atvspeed4 said:

It's not an upgraded balljoint...it's just a uniball with cap and adapter pin

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So the ball joint is not better than stock? It is atl east replaceable right? Ball joints are easier then the whole arm.

Im abit confused now... the part that said 2.25" spherical bearing would be the part at the frame mount instead?
Is it an upgrade then? At least the ball joint part?

amrg said:

Im abit confused now... the part that said 2.25" spherical bearing would be the part at the frame mount instead?
Is it an upgrade then? At least the ball joint part?

Click to expand...

It's another (more traditional way) to refer to a uniball being used instead of a greasable balljoint. Expect squeaking and keeping a can of lube with you but otherwise it should be stronger, just wear quicker in the northern climates with salt and mud. I have concerns about the shape of the arms and risk of 35's or any wide 33s rubbing the arm at full look and droop. The set we previously made had to have the shape reworked for tire clearance with stock wheels

Thats good info! I was interested in getting the flat plate design to uphrade once my current arms go out esp after adding 37s and the -12 offset wheels, but the uniball stuff doesnt suit me much given the dusty enviroment here!