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Cgalpha08's build

cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,584
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Some more progress.
I've gotten the actual links made, standard 2"x.250 wall dom
Also started working on the frame mount for the coilovers. I've leaned the coilovers back 10 degrees and in some as well. Jury is out of they will clear the frame at full droop, they should if my measurements are correct. Got 1 side mocked up just need ti duplicate it on the other side.
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cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,584
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Got some good work done this weekend and today.

For the rear axle, got the antiwrap bar bracket and gussets all welded on, just needs brake/hub parts and gears installed snd it's done.
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For the front. I completely redid my frame coilover mounts. That meant going into the engine bay. But I am much happier with them versus the version posted above. I also installed the coilovers fir the first time. Overall pleased with how everything is shaping up, just need to get the trackbar done and cycle it a bunch before burning it all in.
This should net me 4-5 inches of up travel.

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cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,584
Location
Indianapolis, IN
What is the bracket that is bolted to the inner fender behind the shock hoop?
I was wondering when someone was going to ask about that.

That is purely for mockup. I wanted each side to be as identical as possible, so this is what I came up with.
I knew where my axle center line was, and I knew that at 9/10 degrees angled back from the coilover axle mount, at roughly 4 inches of up travel, so 24.4 inches, that's where the center of the top of my eyelet would have to be rear ward, and i then verified that was how high it needed to be at full stuff. I marked out on both fenders where the top of the eyelet needed to be, drilled a 1/2 inch hole. I then tacked on a 1/4" tab onto the tubes, which also added a little bit of clearance between the fender wall and tube. The hole in the tab coincides with the center of the top eyelet for the coilover. I then bolted the hoops to each fender, and I could then rotate them each exactly 10 degrees rearward, and mark the lines on the legs where i would need to cut. They are about as close to symmetrical as I can get it without using computer assistance lol There is undoubtedly some variation, I'm sure they aren't exactly the same height or the exact same angle in etc, but its close enough that I don't think anyone would notice unless they were specifically looking for it. When I will the tubes and fully weld the upper mounts, I'll take off the tab, so it wont be there when its all done.
 

cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,584
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Trackbar is tacked together, as is the tie rod. I had to put roughly a 10 degree bend in the trackbar, I used a HF pipe bender, yes I know it's for pipe and def not for .250 wall dom....but it worked. That combined with shaving the diff cover got me the clearance I needed.
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I also checked my coilover clearances again, I had to move the hoops a smidge further outboard because at full stuff on pass side and droop on the driver, they contacted the frame, but now I have room.
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cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,584
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Got the engine hoop figured out, I ran the tube with as minimal of movement of the items in the engine bay. It is un equal in angle, however it does give me room for my psc reservoir. (Ignore the too short tube, more arrives this week)
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I also added a third "leg" to the hoops. As well as gussets on each upright as well. Should keep things from moving.

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Drag link is also tacked up, runs nice snd parallel to the trackbar. I'll be taking the drag link, tie rod, and trackbar to my buddies shop. He has one of those fancy lathe welders, which will do a much nicer job that me trying to roll it and weld at the same time.
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cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,584
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Shoutout to CJ (4speed) for welding up the trackbar, draglink, and tierod on the lathe as well as drilling out the sterring arm for tie rod ends. After cycling everything again I determined that at full stuff on both sides, the passenger side was hitting the frame on the trackbar
I was wasting about 1.5 to 2 inches of up travel. So I notched the frame and now i should have 1/2 inch of shaft showing at full stuff, which is fine with me. Hell the tires will probably limit it even more anyway.
The frame is already plated on the outside from the original swap. I'll be adding some more gussets and probably plating the other side as well.
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rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,580
Location
Bellflower, CA
Why not wait until the tires are on to decide if they are limiting up travel before cutting the frame? Might save some headache and extra work.
 

cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,584
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Why not wait until the tires are on to decide if they are limiting up travel before cutting the frame? Might save some headache and extra work.
That is a potential issue, however mathematically they should really only rub the front bumper since i pushed the axle further forward, and that is easy enough to trim.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,350
Location
Meridian, ID
I have always tried to maximize uptravel and let the axle to frame/oil pan/other mechanical crap be the limiter and trim for tires later. It usually helps get you more uptravel.

Looks good Connor. I like the frame notch. I wish I did that instead of flipping the drag link and track bar down an 1in or so.
 

cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,584
Location
Indianapolis, IN
I have always tried to maximize uptravel and let the axle to frame/oil pan/other mechanical crap be the limiter and trim for tires later. It usually helps get you more uptravel.

Looks good Connor. I like the frame notch. I wish I did that instead of flipping the drag link and track bar down an 1in or so.
Its funny you mention the oil pan, because the track bar is very close, i mean like an inch or 2 away from it. I was looking around and saw it and was like huh guess that's a good thing that it doesn't hit haha. The top of the diff tucks nicely into the gap between the motor and frame
 

cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,584
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Small side project. I decided since I had everything apart, I would get rid of the push plastic clips that hold the fender in. I drilled each hole out and added 1/4x20 stainless steel rivnuts and plus nuts for the plastic. I'll now run bolts similar to the one 10mm that's already there to hold the fender in.
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cgalpha08

"Like Nothing Else"
Messages
3,584
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Progressing along, front axle is completely welded, all brackets gusseted, weld washers on everything.

Did one more mockup before welding the frame hoops. This is at full stuff and droop. Everything clears and cycles, should be right around 4.5 inches of up travel. Coilovers at ride height are 10 degrees rearward and 13ish inward.
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This is approx where the bumpstops will go as well.
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