JPaul
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So I wanted to replace the bulbs in my H3's window switches with LED's since they were starting to burn out. I knew that at one point the rear window switches had working lighting (which based on the schematics was only during the 2007 model year) so I thought I'd try to get them working again in my 2008.
Turns out GM removed the wire from both the body harness as well as the door harnesses, so unless you really want it to work like it was designed and tear apart the entire interior to add the wire to the harness (Which is possible by the way, I figured out how to source the contacts for the various plugs so you can just crimp a new wire and pop them into the existing plugs) you're only other option is to modify the switch itself to provide power to the light via an existing power source.
I chose the easier route of modifying the switches, and the power source I chose to use was the one coming from the driver door switch via the passenger window lockout. This way when the lockout is disengaged (your passengers can control their own windows) the light will illuminate, and if you engage the lockout (preventing the passengers from controlling their windows) the light will turn off. This only applies to the rear window switches since the front passenger switch does still have lighting wired in for all model years of the H3, though if you wanted the same functionality on the front passenger switch you could make it work.
So here's the process I went through:
First, pop both switches out of the doors using a flathead screwdriver or some other prying tool. They just clip in on both ends so it doesn't matter which end you work from, unlike the front doors that have only one clip and a hook on the other end.
Then pry off the trim piece, and then you can pry apart the switch housing (it just hooks together with four clips).
Inside will be the circuit board, the rubber seal, and the light pipe that carries light from the bulb to the switch toggle.
Here's a pic of the switch circuit board, what you'll be doing is soldering a jumper between tow of the pins of the connector. The pins are conveniently right across from each other.
Simply solder a wire between the two pins as shown below, and that is all you need to do to modify the circuit board:
Now when the vehicle is on and the lockout disengaged, the rear window switch lights will illuminate. If you're using regular incandescent bulbs that's all you need to do and you can simply reassemble everything and install it back in the car. If you're using LED replacements like me you'll have a couple options, I chose the harder one of course.
Here are the LED's I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018LUL8BA
Turns out GM removed the wire from both the body harness as well as the door harnesses, so unless you really want it to work like it was designed and tear apart the entire interior to add the wire to the harness (Which is possible by the way, I figured out how to source the contacts for the various plugs so you can just crimp a new wire and pop them into the existing plugs) you're only other option is to modify the switch itself to provide power to the light via an existing power source.
I chose the easier route of modifying the switches, and the power source I chose to use was the one coming from the driver door switch via the passenger window lockout. This way when the lockout is disengaged (your passengers can control their own windows) the light will illuminate, and if you engage the lockout (preventing the passengers from controlling their windows) the light will turn off. This only applies to the rear window switches since the front passenger switch does still have lighting wired in for all model years of the H3, though if you wanted the same functionality on the front passenger switch you could make it work.
So here's the process I went through:
First, pop both switches out of the doors using a flathead screwdriver or some other prying tool. They just clip in on both ends so it doesn't matter which end you work from, unlike the front doors that have only one clip and a hook on the other end.
Then pry off the trim piece, and then you can pry apart the switch housing (it just hooks together with four clips).
Inside will be the circuit board, the rubber seal, and the light pipe that carries light from the bulb to the switch toggle.
Here's a pic of the switch circuit board, what you'll be doing is soldering a jumper between tow of the pins of the connector. The pins are conveniently right across from each other.
Simply solder a wire between the two pins as shown below, and that is all you need to do to modify the circuit board:
Now when the vehicle is on and the lockout disengaged, the rear window switch lights will illuminate. If you're using regular incandescent bulbs that's all you need to do and you can simply reassemble everything and install it back in the car. If you're using LED replacements like me you'll have a couple options, I chose the harder one of course.
Here are the LED's I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018LUL8BA
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