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Hunner EXtreme exploratory bumper thread

theBroken

Well-Known Member
Messages
143
Location
Michigan
Thanks Broken and Hans, I invite all input while I am at it. Mine will be a one off because it will require some mods to the fender liner and maybe extended out for my flares. So I want to hear all suggestions of what others have to contribute, just in case I can make a second generation without my Steelcraft mount, allowing a recessed but exposed winch.

This is how I confronted my rear bumper. I'm making it for myself and not for retail. That way I don't find myself thinking about how someone else would use it or install it.

With that thought, my rear bumper is going to have a hidden rear winch. If you mount a more fixed rear winch somewhere you will give yourself more options on the front mount not having to remove your front winch.

Another thought would to have bolt on wings. So you can unbolt them for offroading and then back on again off the trail. You could store water or tools in the removable wings.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
The concept of modular wings is part of my project on the front. It took so long to mock up as I was removing all the extra parts. I have some stuff left over! I may have a couple of attached partitions to funnel air to the radiator like the large piece was supposed to do. Those may attach to a cross over shell that ties them together for stability but does not block air flow as much as the lower grill did.
DAH_3309.jpg

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As some might recall, I had hoped to figure out a solution on the rear on the I-5 when I removed the muffler, I needed more fab help to build the bumper and winch mount back there. I did however make a removable mount. When doing rough stuff I strapped it down inside the rear to a mount I had made.
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There have been occasions in my past where when stuck, winching forward was no longer the wisest choice. I did work out a way with several turning blocks to winch backward with a front winch.
 
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theBroken

Well-Known Member
Messages
143
Location
Michigan
If your not crazy about trying to make the wings hold water do something else with them. For example build the front of each wing into a door that opens on the front of the wing. Then you can store shackles and straps in the wings. Maybe even a folded shovel. You don't have to keep fog lights. I took mine out years ago.
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
In my case I like the OEM fogs. I drive with my low beams and fogs most of the time. I can see better in front and off to the side than I can with the high beams. Still want to make the fogs work on high, too many things, so little time. It won't be too good for actual fog driving but will illuminate the road up closer and out to the shoulders. I don't want to hit a deer and ruin all my work.
Anyway, the housings are pretty cramped on the back side now. Right behind them is more obstuction with braces and that end of the engine compartment sub facia that extends over that way. There is a bit of room out at the edge but I want some sort of side light in there. Maybe LED that are bright and will work for rock crawling but just to switch on offroad. Not sure they would be legal on road.That and I have shaved off a couple of inches to give more tire room.
DAH_3312.jpg

If I keep going I may have a photo breakdown of every piece of an H3!
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
A while back I caught a one day sale on a Ridgid one hand sawzall. I needed something smaller than my destruction level size and bigger than my air devil. This orange thing is great. Variable speed and built in led light. Cuts plastic with out melting it.
DAH_3319.jpg
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Finally had some time to get back on the bumper mock up. I first thought of having my air tank behind and level with the winch since the winch blocks air there anyway. Decided leaving that open for my rig so air could flow behind the winch. That area would also be big enough for other winches so getting the tank down low would allow for someone with a compressor onboard to use a tank.
I wanted to add the tank so I could run an impact and possibly just go off the deep end and get a really loud train horn at some point. I think a grumpy old man could have fun the way people drive around here.
DAH_3421.jpg

I managed to squeeze the Warn full size hot dog tank into the OEM bumper cap. I saw Hummer Guy put a smaller tank in there but I have an older bumper laying around and this tank would not fit. My 08 has a larger size bumper to allow for that nerf bar they added. That makes the skid larger as well. Everything will bolt back as before. I'm trying to retain as much OEM stuff as I can to keep costs down and keep the H3 look to a point but get more clearance around the front tires.
Gotta do a little plumbing with two shut off valves so I can keep what I have pumped up but disconnect the lines, with quick connects.
Does that count as an airbag?:shifty:
DAH_3427.jpg

Probably will be a lag getting to the fab shop now because of the Holidays but I'm still soaking up some of these ideas and testing things.
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
In between gorging binges I got the tank dropped a little and mounted in the bumper. I have room for the skid plate nut plates and bolts now. I got all the fittings almost like I wanted. I had to rotate the tank to get the legs aiming up so did not get a bung hole aiming down for a drain valve.
I got a swivel pig tail with quick connects between the compressor and tank. I used quick connects from the tank to my coiled hose that came with the winch. Now I can disconnect all of that to get cleaner look and keep the temptation for someone to "borrow" them.
Before I mounted the tank I plugged the extra holes and made the connections to try it with the compressor. My main goal was to have the tanks full when starting to fill tires to get a quicker fill up. So adding a quick connect that seals when the hose is removed from the compressor keeps it up to pressure. The way it came with just a male plug it bled the tank when you unhooked whooosh! Plus the compressor can keep up the pressure in the added tank while filling tires. Before after initial pump up it would restart on the first tire but kept enough pressure to continually fill up tires. I was able to use my nail guns and staplers before but it is better now and less compressor run time. It will run a 3/8 impact very well. The 1/2 inch impact is still a bit slow. Probably will just use my inverter and AC impact for lug nuts.
As with some of my other mods, frequent use and easy access was more important than cosmetics. I use my rig often and being able to air down for a 40 mile stretch of road and then air up again is now no hassle. Sometimes I used to just put up with the rough ride off pavement knowing I just had to do all that work. Now I want to save the suspension and my ole back and not have everthing all shook up and my drink splashing all over the console.:no:
DAH_3625.jpg
 
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Steve #1

Well-Known Member
Messages
534
Location
TEXAS
In my case I like the OEM fogs. I drive with my low beams and fogs most of the time. I can see better in front and off to the side than I can with the high beams. Still want to make the fogs work on high, too many things, so little time. It won't be too good for actual fog driving but will illuminate the road up closer and out to the shoulders. I don't want to hit a deer and ruin all my work.

Just noticed I hadn't posted the fog light mod here. Should only take you a few min.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?1383-H3-Fog-Light-Mod&p=25240#post25240
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I looked for that online and I think I saved it on another hard drive. Thanks good winter project.
I remember having to remove that fuse panel when I installed the OEM driving lights on the roof. It can be frustrating and everything has to snap back in place, juuust rite. I missed that one time and had to go back in.
I have been looking for an entire box for a long time specific to the 2008 Alpha. My waterproof box idea is still on my mind. I researched many Pelican cases and other brands but have yet to find the ideal size box that will fit that and go in the space that is there.
I have found some thru bulkhead connectors that I am using on boats that tighten down with a rubber membrane around the wiring harnesses so you don't have to remove those. The first ones I saw came with a propane locker from West Marine. I need to look those up.
I was in the process of disseceting this to explore a different route for the lighting issue if I could not find your write up, but hey there is some neat use of clear plastic for a light pipe to backlight the switch and maybe a way to either blow this up real good or mod it. It's ok this is on loan from the museum.
3630.jpg

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Light switch made in Mexico,
Steering rack Mondo Corp in Korea
4wd switches in China
assembled in Shreveport USA
our Hummers are an international vehicle.
gotta be something in here from Japan, starter, alternator???
 
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08SolarFlareH3

Super Swampers
Messages
2,525
Location
Finger Lakes, NY
I have noticed a lot (and I mean A LOT) of GM parts are made in Mexico. My export / Championship Edition fender flares were made in South Africa. Do I thank Sennin for those? :)
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
I spent waay more hours today than I thought it would take to work on the next part of my bumper pods. I had to take them apart and put them completely back to check fit after EACH trimming plastic and adjusting metal brackets. I even had to break out the BFH!
The mock up is cardboard and black duct tape so it's not pretty but will work for the metal shop to take off of and see my desired results I want. I had some new lights in the museum that were spares from my truck. Great thing is they are half yellow fog and white driving lights and can be switched or run together. Funny thing is I was going to turn the bezel over so the white was outside. Turns out even with the yellow on the outside at the angle I was going for they swap when on? It's the Fresnel lens. So that worked well.
All of this will be 10 gauge steel and I think after final fitting I may just prime and shoot it with some textured paint.
I did not spend much time finishing the mockup, but I played in my photo program a few minutes trying to dress it up but want to go out and work on the other side now if my old dry eyes will hold up. Now where are those high dollar compounded eye drops?
b3676.jpg

3664.jpg

3671.jpg

DAH_3672.jpg
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Got the other side mocked up. It looks better in person than in the shop pictures. I have to open the door to get a picture and it's raining and cold. Can't get the right perspective on it with the lens I tried. I can't get back on it for awhile but will align some things and maybe measure. So far I just eyeballed the placement but have made it so it can be adjusted. I'm trying not to have any blind bolts to insert and make it so they are easy to get to in the right sequence of assembley. I want to be able to remove this without taking off the winch and brush guard. Next step is a center plate for those that do not have this brush guard. It should work with the OEM also if I get this cut like I want. More options will be to use some other forum member's components as well.
3678_exposure.jpg
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
The winch tray on this Steelcraft brushguard/winch mount is level with the top of the OEM bumper. What I did was remove the center section of the lower grill and a lot of baffling. My Powerplant was touching that anyway. Since I managed to get the air tank IN the bumper that left the area behind the winch open all the way back to the radiator. It opened up more air flow top and bottom but some of course is still blocked from direct straight on air flow. I'm going to have end plates made on these cut down pods that will direct flow into the radiator instead of escaping out to the sides. So for mine right now NOTHIN, just a big hole.
DAH_3294.jpg

This is all there is to the OEM bumper
DAH_3427.jpg

However in the works is a plate running from back there tied into the frame and tow hook mounts which would allow a shorter winch to be placed partially under the top grill. That may be awhile yet. I hope to have a longer one to mount Powerplants that will stick out a little more.
I shortened the light housing where they extended down to to cover the bumper brace. That part on mine seems to keep getting destroyed.
The outer ends on mine will extend out as far as my fender flares. There was a rod brace there held at the end with a push pin. I replaced that with a SS bolt that will support the end to help prevent vibration or movement.
So far there are three bolts holding them. I want to add a fourth with a brace of some kind back down to the frame. It was not originally designed for that so I will see what I can come up with and get some ideas at the fab shop.
It appears all that was crush-able and did not offer any protection.
 
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BIGSTUF

Active Member
Messages
33
Location
Nashville, TN
I know it's been a little while since everyone has talked "bumpers", but that being said, I'm really impressed with the idea of having on-board air handy for post-off-roading refills or flats. This is a link that I found a while back and would like to begin working on ASAP...
http://www.hummerguy.net/hummer-news/hummerguy-net-project-h3-gets-on-board-air

Here's my problem, I CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET THE PLASTIC BUMPER OFF THE BEAST! I have removed the grill easy enough, but aside from slicing my finger wide open, I cannot for the life of me find any information on bumper removal. ANY help in this matter would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks in advance!
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
It's a bit of a job actually. Those corner braces that are metal and are bolted to the frame extend up to the plastic part. Unfortunately I had to remove the fender liner to get up in there. I have had mine apart for over a month and would need to go out and look how I have it now to see. Then there are a couple of bolts about even with the sides of the radiator that unscrew from nut clips that are under about where the fog lights are. That is about all there is except out at the very ends there is a small rod support that has a plastic push pin in it. Sacrificial at most. Just a facia for looks.
DAH_3285.jpg

DAH_3786.jpg

Check that out and if you need more info I can go look again, I fergit!
I didn't slice my finger though, is that a sacrificial thing??:shifty:
I think my tank is larger than that black one and will only fit a 2008 and up with the added nerf bar they made the metal bumper larger.
DAH_3424.jpg
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Not much news yet, I finally found another place to work on these. I hope to get an estimate Monday.
This will give some options when modifying a winch mount and allowing more air in my case with the Powerplant.
Although I have run it the same day when it was hot here with and without the winch and can see very little difference on the scangauge.
I have been running it with the center cut out and that does seem to allow more airflow and a little less extreme temps.
Not scientific but an added benefit of modding the light pods and getting rid of the fang that hangs down.
more later
 

Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Well so much for that idea. Two estimates both $300 a side! This is classified as art. I know it would take some time but I have not found the right artist yet.
I may try to make them out of carbon fiber, still thinking about that.
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
Hunner...go back to Post #37. Since you've had that light switch apart...do think its possible to remove the "spring" from it?

GM can't seem to figure out that OFF means OFF!...not OFF for awhile...or OFF until I restart my truck. When I turn my lights OFF...I want them to stay OFF until I turn them back ON. This rediculous little feature drives me nuts, and I hate having to bump the spring-loaded switch every time I put my truck in gear. Thought I would ask since you had yours apart.
 
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