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What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

BlueEngineer

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Location
WV
I replaced four shocks. I went with Monroes on the rear and 5100s on the front. I also put in two new bump stops. I never realized how bad the ride was before I did all this. It rides like a new vehicle now.
 

Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Drove it, saw a fellow H3 and parked next to it for comparison shots...some haters would say panzer has been pumping some Roids...but I assure u she is 100% natty she just has great genetics. [emoji16][emoji16]
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the_real_hacksaw

Well-Known Member
Messages
73
Location
Freeborn
Put Seafoam in the crankcase, vacuum & fuel tank.
Fuel economy went from an average of 9 mpg - 12 mpg

Something was terribly wrong with my motor. Put on a spectacular smoke show


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Seafoam always gives a spectacular smoke show


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Panzer07

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,548
Location
Ontario, CA
Cool pic! How high are your antennae? I don't think they would clear a lot of overpasses around here!
They are 10 feet long, mounted they are like 2 3 feet shorter than a semi so I'm good around here...except drive thrus but that's ok gives me an excuse not to be lazy and walk lol.

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Bowser-II

Well-Known Member
Messages
268
Location
Hagerstown, Maryland
Finally got the new half shaft in and it drives!

Going around the block I had an occasional rubbing sound I could not place.

Nothing was visible under the truck, so when a half shaft goes, what else should I be looking for?


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SlcHummer

Well-Known Member
Messages
368
Location
Salt Lake City, UT
What kind of half shaft did you install and when does the rubbing occur, while turning, accelerating, etc.?

I ask cause I installed a new cardone half shaft and was feeling a vibrating/grinding through the pedals which was most noticeable during turns. I had a friend who is more car savvy but unfamiliar with my rig drive it and he did not notice any issues. I ended up putting the old oem half shaft back on after rebooting it and everything was back to normal.

If the rubbing wasn't there before I would look at any recent changes/installs as being suspect.
 

Bowser-II

Well-Known Member
Messages
268
Location
Hagerstown, Maryland
It’s a new ACDelco unit. I checked out the front end carefully tonight and gently drove around the block. There is a thunking noise that sometimes starts around fifteen miles per hour and is strong when decelerating.

My guess is that I fragged something in the differential as well. If so, how hard is this job for someone who has not done it before?


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Bowser-II

Well-Known Member
Messages
268
Location
Hagerstown, Maryland
Welp, found some metal chips inside the differential:

f2ec34fe4e26e5a43a4c8388684f3721.jpg



here is my plan:

Pull it out and take it to someone local to rebuild, maybe even the local GM service centers. It looks like I need to
1) remove drive shaft
2) remove either driver or passenger side half shaft (does it matter?)
3) unbolt the sides
4) unbolt the center crossmember
5) drop and deliver to the shop

Am I missing anything, is that a reasonable approach?

Are there any special tools I need?

I thought about driving it somewhere but I’m sure that would be totally destructive, and I’m not really sure how hard it is to rebuild.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated!


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Bowser-II

Well-Known Member
Messages
268
Location
Hagerstown, Maryland
If you are replacing the front diff, pretty easy. If you are repairing it, it will take some learning if this is your first.

Assuming you mean replace the entire diff vs repair of only the guts, then yeah that is what I guessed for a first timer doing this, and I’m not sure I really have the time for it right now.


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4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
That’s pretty much it. Don’t forget to unplug the vent hose and locker wiring (if equipped). Also, make sure you chock the rear wheels as the truck will lose PARK as soon as you jack up the front wheels.

If you don’t have any luck finding a reputable shop, feel free to send it my way. I rebuild AAM-7.6s quite often and I keep most parts in stock. Turn around is approx 5-7 days. PM if you want more info.
 

Korby7

Well-Known Member
Messages
397
Location
Utah
Finally found time to get my Thorparts Gen II mounted up. Talk about a no drama installation. These are very well designed bumpers. I’m very happy with it.
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BW_Hummer H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,084
Location
Texas
Had to remove the fender flares to do some trimming and broke a few clips. Cheap to replace but still annoying

IMG_0627.JPG


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DFW Spartan

Well-Known Member
Messages
125
Location
Dallas, TX
Replaced the lock & handle on my SnugTop. The original handle was corroded, and the cylinder lock broken. Got lucky and found a (new) replacement in a discontinued spare parts bin at a local SnugTop dealer.

While at it, I installed a Poplock tailgate lock (#PL1300H3T), and a Deezee Hydraulic Tailgate Assist (#DZ43102).

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ludevick

Well-Known Member
Messages
99
Location
Northern California
Installed a new CB radio, PA speaker, stereo head unit, infinity door speakers and plugged a leak in the roof. Next up is brakes!


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Schwarttzy

Sponsor
Messages
1,348
Location
Rockford IL
OnStar-Microphone-Adapter-Schwarttzy-GM-Hummer-H3-1-960x540.jpg


https://schwarttzy.com/product/onstar-microphone-adapter/

The OnStar Microphone Adapter makes connecting the GM factory microphone to an aftermarket radio easy. Not just for the H3 Hummer, the OnStar Microphone Adapter works with plenty other GM vehicles too. This adapter probably works as the vehicle has a similar looking microphone. Otherwise, don't worry because the OnStar Adapter can be returned to me if it doesn't work. To connect the adapter to the microphone, just disconnect it from the wiring harness. Plug in the OnStar Microphone Adapter to the microphone and then run 3.5mm male-to-male headphone jack to the back of the radio.
 
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