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What did you do with your H3 recently? NEW

Jeff V.

Well-Known Member
Messages
123
Location
Kansas City, MO
Someone told me there's a second set of sunroof drains at the rear? Level or down hill, your truck is draining out of the front. Uphill, it's trying to drain out of the clogged rears and failing?
 

USMC_315

Well-Known Member
Messages
590
Location
Northern VA
Someone told me there's a second set of sunroof drains at the rear? Level or down hill, your truck is draining out of the front. Uphill, it's trying to drain out of the clogged rears and failing?

I've watched countless videos of the sunroof drains but everyone only mentioned the front ones. I guess that would make sense that there would be another set in the rear. Does anyone know of a video or have photos depicting where the rear ones are located so I could assess them?
 

Jeff V.

Well-Known Member
Messages
123
Location
Kansas City, MO
This is recent-ish. It's happened since we bought the truck in August.

I repaired a bunch of horrific alarm wiring. These are just some of the highlights. Almost every connection was twisted (poorly) and taped over. No solder, no crimps, no shrink tubing. I don't know who thought this was ok. I ended up just having to replace the column wiring harness entirely. It was too far gone. I'm surprised the truck even started.

H3CE-elec02.jpg


H3CE-elec01.jpg


I pulled the dash to replace the broken AC evaporator core. The flared fitting at the firewall had broken clean off. How does that even happen?

H3CE-evap04.jpg


H3CE-BustedAC.jpg


I swapped out the fuel pump assembly. The fuel gauge was jammed at the halfway mark. The pump had 193k on it, so I just opted to replace the whole unit. Someone had replaced the tank pressure sensor, and busted the nipple off. That nipple fell down into the tiny opening in the fuel level sender, causing it to mechanically jam. It was probably a one in a million chance. I damn near had to cut the lock ring off. The special tool was totally useless. I at least used it to install the new lock ring.

H3CE-fuel-03.jpg


This is the pressure sensor nipple in the fuel level sender, after I removed the outer cover.

H3CE-fuel-04.jpg


H3CE-fuel-05.jpg


And I swapped out the worn driver's door hinges. The Dorman pin kit ended up being too tight, so I swapped the whole hinge with some good used ones from a Colorado at Pick N Pull.

H3CE-NoDoor.jpg


Next on the list is replacing or rebuilding most of the suspension, and servicing the brake system.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,400
Location
Way up north, UT
I've been having a leak problem again. Instead of being on the A pillar, this leak is coming from the C pillar and is soaking the headliner on the passenger side. Another strange thing about it is this only happens with the truck is facing uphill, never when it's facing downhill. Any thoughts on what might be going on? I really don't have the means to fix this right now without having any knowledge on what might exactly be going on. Thanks for any help!
Yes, there are front and rear drains for the sunroof. Definitely sounds like your rear ones are either clogged or came off at the sunroof. The drains are located just to the rear of the rear doors and exit inside the fender flares. You can drop the wheel well liners to get to them. I cut both my front and rear ones open, removing the little flaps in the bottom drain grommet since all it really seems to accomplish is catching debris from the sunroof and clogging the drain lines.

I also dropped the headliner enough to get in and use some zip ties as hose clamps to make sure the drain lines don't pop off the sunroof assembly. Mine were all detached when someone tried to clean them out using compressed air.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

Jeff V.

Well-Known Member
Messages
123
Location
Kansas City, MO
I changed out my oil pressure sensor last night. (09 V8) The old one had a code for sensor circuit high voltage. Do yourself a favor and buy the special socket for it. I got a Performance Tool W80590 from Advance Auto. GM in their infinite wisdom used some kind of weird rounded off hex instead of a normal 6 point hex. The sensor body is this really light aluminum. It almost feels like tin. It seems like it'd be easy to round off. There's no good way to get an open end wrench down in there, and it would really suck to round the thing off. I was able to do the swap in about 15 minutes with a 3/8" ratchet and extension thanks to that socket. The sensor gets torqued to 25 ft-lbs.

My sensor also came with a little filter insert. That's only used on the 2010 engines with active fuel management. 2008-2009 doesn't use it. If anyone needs just the filter, let me know and I'll send it to you for free.
 

650Hawk

Well-Known Member
Messages
480
Location
SoCal
I've been having a leak problem again. Instead of being on the A pillar, this leak is coming from the C pillar and is soaking the headliner on the passenger side. Another strange thing about it is this only happens with the truck is facing uphill, never when it's facing downhill. Any thoughts on what might be going on? I really don't have the means to fix this right now without having any knowledge on what might exactly be going on. Thanks for any help!
Keep in mind that the channels in the roof for the roof rack rails are bolted into the roof, and extend the entire length. I've heard that the threaded inserts that are used for that channel can rust, and then leak. Thought I'd mention that since you talked about the C pillar, and it would seem that the rear sunroof drains would be nearer the B pillar.
 

USMC_315

Well-Known Member
Messages
590
Location
Northern VA
Finally got around to installing new headlights with the Lased Designs adapter kit for Jeep headlights. Took a bit longer than I expected, but I suppose most of that was due to me running back and forth to the store for things I needed and did not have.

IMG_0041.jpeg

InkedIMG_0051_LI.jpg

I also took car of the rattling A pillar trim with some foam tape, seems pretty snug now. The stock foam tape was damn near brittle and about half the size it was from factory it seemed. After these two tasks, went ahead and used some 303 Protectant for the trim pieces to bring back that darkness and it worked pretty damn well. Washed the outside and engine bay for quite a while, gave up before I got to the interior. Next step is to get some bedliner on the grill and some new terminals since mine are cracked. Thank you Bowser-II (for the recommendation, not breaking them). Once that is done, I'll hopefully carve out some time to update my build thread that has laid dormant since before Pepperidge Farm can remember :shame:
 

Gent

Active Member
Messages
35
Location
Canada
Foglight guards

I installed some foglight guards. They’re ok, no measurable decrease in light output, and It looks a little tougher.
 

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Gent

Active Member
Messages
35
Location
Canada
Sorry, when I bought it last year, I also got a bunch of stuff buddy hadn’t plastidipped yet. Slowly going through it, lol. Still have a set of lights for the lower grill that needs dipping
 

Traxx

Well-Known Member
Messages
682
Location
PNW
Gave it a bath while I charged the battery then took it for a spin to put some fuel in it. Haven't started it since end of May.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,400
Location
Way up north, UT
I spent 3 hours chasing an electrical problem that was preventing the HVAC blower fan from working. AGAIN. Seems to like to do it around this time of year.

At least now I have it well sorted as to where the problem is, it's the connector for the body harness just inside the firewall on the driver's side. All I had to do was unlatch the connector and relatch it. That was apparently enough to get rid of the problem. It's a really weird one too, everything has power and proper continuity, except the moment you try to turn the fan on it immediately loses power on the feed side. Turn the knob back to off and immediately you get a voltage reading again. So it was only an issue when there was more than a few milliamps of current flowing through the circuit. Weirdest thing I have ever seen, electrical wise.
 

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,314
Location
United States
If it's the blower resistor that you are referring to, there was a recall on that. If that's what it is, the problem will only get worse until it quits working altogether.
 

Jeff V.

Well-Known Member
Messages
123
Location
Kansas City, MO
Blower resistor connection is on the passenger side underneath the glove box.

When I had my dash out, I noticed one of the pins on my resistor connector was dark, like it had been overheated. This is with the supposedly improved recall part. Not cool.
 

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,314
Location
United States
Sorry...I misread as passenger side. Yeah, I can't believe after all these years someone hasn't come up with an aftermarket GM blower resistor. I've come to expect to replace the one on my truck about every other year. I even bought a new blower thinking maybe it was drawing too many amps, even though bench test showed it was fine.
 

JPaul

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,400
Location
Way up north, UT
If it's the blower resistor that you are referring to, there was a recall on that. If that's what it is, the problem will only get worse until it quits working altogether.

Not the blower resistor. It's the body harness connector on the driver's side just inside the firewall. The connection there is what is going out on my truck.

rWw9gm8.jpg
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,442
Location
Scottsdale
Took the H3 to Reloader's today as my rear pinion seal was leaking. Did the driveshaft shake test and realized the transfer case output bushing was worn. Also noticed that the transfer case was moving at the transmission.

Checked the transfer case mount studs/nuts. Two nuts were completely missing! Two more were about to fall off. One nut was holding the transfer case to the transmission! I need to fire the mechanic that installed it, but then I can't really fire myself. :shame:

So, one pinion seal, transfer case output shaft bushing and seal, new fluid in the transfer case and rear diff. Didn't need to change the fluids but I'm not putting on more than 15K on the transfer case fluid between changes and I was curious how the diff looked since the rebuild two years/12,000 miles ago.
 

RamRod

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,914
Location
AB, Canada
Took the H3 to Reloader's today as my rear pinion seal was leaking. Did the driveshaft shake test and realized the transfer case output bushing was worn. Also noticed that the transfer case was moving at the transmission.

Checked the transfer case mount studs/nuts. Two nuts were completely missing! Two more were about to fall off. One nut was holding the transfer case to the transmission! I need to fire the mechanic that installed it, but then I can't really fire myself. :shame:

So, one pinion seal, transfer case output shaft bushing and seal, new fluid in the transfer case and rear diff. Didn't need to change the fluids but I'm not putting on more than 15K on the transfer case fluid between changes and I was curious how the diff looked since the rebuild two years/12,000 miles ago.

And how did the oil look??
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,442
Location
Scottsdale
And how did the oil look??
Both the t-case and rear diff were surprisingly good. It's amazing how fast the t-case fluid gets dirty but it wasn't bad this time. The rear diff was good too with minimal metal on the magnetic drain plug and zero pieces of metal shavings.
 

Bigunit

Hammer Down!
Staff member
Messages
6,558
Location
Arizona
How many miles have you put on your H3 in the past 12 months offroad or non off-road?


Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
 

zebra

Well-Known Member
Messages
115
Location
cold & windy
well, the good Lord done gived my wife some fantastic birthday weekend weather, so we went shooting & driving through the hills again
according to some lady that started whistling/hollering at us from her yard on the next hill over (a good couple hundred yards away), 'twas *allegedly* a "non-motorized" trail (that we only found by following well-worn tire tracks from the road) - whatever
shrug.gif


got some good use of low range to climb & descend a couple grades without smoking the clutch
IMG_2986.jpg
IMG-2980.jpg
IMG-2989.jpg
 

08H3

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,314
Location
United States
Both the t-case and rear diff were surprisingly good. It's amazing how fast the t-case fluid gets dirty but it wasn't bad this time. The rear diff was good too with minimal metal on the magnetic drain plug and zero pieces of metal shavings.

Virtually every person on here says their transfer case fluid gets dirty quickly and looks terrible when changed. Am I the only person who does NOT experience this? I really don't understand the difference, but I have never changed the fluid where it looked like it had degraded at all. It always comes out bright red just like when I put it in.
 
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