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  1. #1
    Bald Tire
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    Problem with XM to AUX input conversion

    So I installed an AUX input by splicing into the factory XM transmitter. I bought the AUX input from Radio Shack and soldered speaker wire to the connections. Then, I used wire splicers to connect the wires from the AUX to the XM wires that connect to the head unit. Everything worked perfectly for about 8 months, but recently I've had a problem with the sound quality. It will (sometimes) work perfectly fine for about 10-20 minutes then the music gives out similar to headphones that aren't plugged in all the way. I've checked the wires, the connections, the 3.5mm cable (all 3 that I've used), but everything seems to be intact. I also have a switch to control the power to an 800w amp. It's mainly there so I can control when my amp/sub are turned and off so it doesn't drain my battery. Not sure how or why it would cause interference (especially after not causing any problems for 8 months). It's only the AUX that's having problems; FM/AM, CD, and XM still function properly.

    Any ideas?

    PS Schwarttzy made a harness that works in a similar fashion. http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/foru...liary-In-35-00
    Last edited by southernhummerguy; 11-06-2015 at 10:54 PM. Reason: AUX, XM, AUX input, XM radio, radio problems, XM conversion

  2. #2
    El Diablo
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    What type of wire splicers did you use? Scotchlocks?

  3. #3
    Super Swamper
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    If you used something other than the scotchlock (briefcase) splices, then I'd give them a hit with some good flux, solder, and soldering iron. If you used scotchlocks then i'd ditch them and just solder the wires together properly with some heatshrink tubing over them. Honestly, unless you have a really good crimper, I'd solder everything to make sure you don't have any issues. The cheap barrel crimpers you get from just about everywhere are next to useless for proper crimps, especially on small gauge wires.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/Mast...ice-everytime/

  4. #4
    Bald Tire
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    Thanks for the reply!

    Squeeze splice. The wires are tucked up pretty snug above the glove box. I'll get a few shots and post them.

    They came in a package like this (and a close-up for a little more detail)
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  5. #5
    Bald Tire
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    Thanks for the reply! I would love to solder them, but can't given my current housing. I'll have to check into crimping them. Right now the wires are connected with squeeze splices.

  6. #6
    Bald Tire
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    Well, looks like it was loose wire.
    **DO NOT ATTEMPT** (unless certified or ridiculously hard-headed like me)
    I messed with the wires while the aux was hooked up and playing. A few moments later perfect sound. Haven't figured out which wire it is or how it is messed up because all the connections still seem in fine, but at least I know the cause of the problem.
    Thanks again guys!

  7. #7
    El Diablo
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    There are battery powered soldering irons that can help in a pinch when you don't have access to an outlet. Those types of connectors are likely the source of your problem

  8. #8
    Super Swamper
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrock View Post
    There are battery powered soldering irons that can help in a pinch when you don't have access to an outlet. Those types of connectors are likely the source of your problem
    Heck, go to Harbor Freight and buy a power inverter, most any of them will do for a soldering iron. A simple soldering iron from either Radio Shack or similar will do just fine for automotive wiring work, and since it's a resistive load, you can use it with pretty much any inverter as long as the wattage rating is sufficient. I really should do this myself, keep a soldering iron and some associated bits in the H3, just in case.

    I've tried the battery operated ones and they are OK for really minor stuff, but anything past that and you'll want something with more thermal mass than those provide. Heck, with even a small $30 inverter you could run a 100 watt gun off it.


 

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