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  1. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by mantracker View Post
    Thorparts is the only one that know of that makes the adapter. I've purchased several of his products, with NO disappointments.
    The shaft you'll have to order from Tatton.
    Yeah, grabbed the adapter from him and drive-shaft from Tatton. I can smell the CV joint after driving the truck to and from work. Thinking about just taking it out and driving in 4 hi until I get the drive shaft in as I don't want the current CV to fail while driving down the highway.

  2. #137
    Bogger
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    Quote Originally Posted by napalmsticks View Post
    Yeah, grabbed the adapter from him and drive-shaft from Tatton. I can smell the CV joint after driving the truck to and from work. Thinking about just taking it out and driving in 4 hi until I get the drive shaft in as I don't want the current CV to fail while driving down the highway.
    Probably a good idea. I had to do the same for a few days.
    2006 H3 Adventure & modified Rancho with SOA

  3. #138
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    How's everyone liking the Taton drive shaft? Also are you all only changing the front and leaving the rear with the original? I plan on ordering one of these drive shaft and was wondering if I only should change the front. Also , does Thor parts still Have the adapter? If not I'm screwed

    Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

  4. #139
    Bogger
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    I like mine and only replaced the front.
    2006 H3 Adventure & modified Rancho with SOA

  5. #140
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    I got probably 15-20 adapters remaining...$99 shipped. If you want one, send me a PM with your direct email. I can connect you to Tatton Driveline for the new shaft.

    On the rear...most guys run a bone stock shaft. It seems to do a good job unless you really lift the rear suspension. If you do a spring-over-axle mod on the rear suspension, you will notice the rear driveshaft will be too short afterwards. So I recommend installing a longer one to keep the slip-yoke from being pulled out so far. I am running over 6" of lift and I have zero issues running a stock slip-yoke and standard U-joints on the rear shaft. The shaft angle (even at full droop) is not enough to bother with anything more complex. I think my new shaft was approximately 1.5" longer than stock, and this put the slip yoke right back in the stock position.

    There are a few H4O members that have added cardan joints (Bebe) and/or slip-yoke eliminators (jakeZ28) to rear shafts.

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to 4speedfunk For This Useful Post:

    Romeo (04-11-2016)

  7. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4speedfunk View Post
    I got probably 15-20 adapters remaining...$99 shipped. If you want one, send me a PM with your direct email. I can connect you to Tatton Driveline for the new shaft.

    On the rear...most guys run a bone stock shaft. It seems to do a good job unless you really lift the rear suspension. If you do a spring-over-axle mod on the rear suspension, you will notice the rear driveshaft will be too short afterwards. So I recommend installing a longer one to keep the slip-yoke from being pulled out so far. I am running over 6" of lift and I have zero issues running a stock slip-yoke and standard U-joints on the rear shaft. The shaft angle (even at full droop) is not enough to bother with anything more complex. I think my new shaft was approximately 1.5" longer than stock, and this put the slip yoke right back in the stock position.

    There are a few H4O members that have added cardan joints (Bebe) and/or slip-yoke eliminators (jakeZ28) to rear shafts.
    Thanks 4speed! Is there a reason why we should go with 1310s vs 1350s?

  8. #142
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    Wouldn't suppose these THOR adaptors are still available..?

    '08 H3 Alpha Offroad
    35" Toyo Open Counry MT's, T-Bar Crank, Odyssey Extreme Battery, CBP Winch Mount, Smittybilt XRC 9.5K Winch, Hi-Lift Jack, Ready Welder, Schwarttzy Hi Clearance Leaf Mounts / 2" Extended Shackles / Rock Sliders,
    KMW Up Armor UCP, Defender Roof Rack, CSF Racing Radiator, Fox 2.0 Shocks, Superchips Tuner

    '06 H3 Adv/Lux (July 2012 to Aug 2014)

  9. #143
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    I'm sold out right now. But, I am doing some R&D on a new one that uses a JK shaft. The 1310cv flange is fairly common but, the problem is the quality of the 1310 parts you use. I had issues with several Tatton shafts only to find out they were assembled incorrectly with mismatched no-name (Chinese) parts. This discovery led me down the path to genuine Spicer parts. Once I started using quality Spicer parts, I can honestly say the shaft is much smoother than before.

    Unfortunately there are a couple problems with the Spicer parts too...

    First, the Spicer 1310cv must be field-built from individual Spicer pieces. Most cardan CV's can be bought totally assembled, and all you do is weld them to the tube and you're golden. But for some reason Spicer does not offer a pre-assembled cardan CV in the 1310 version needed. The cost of the individual parts is much higher than the cost of a pre-assembled unit.

    Second, since the cardan must be field-built by the driveline guy...his labor is much more than it would be if it came pre-assembled.

    All of this means the shaft price is quite high (over $450), plus the cost of the adapter. Quite frankly...a driveshaft like this should not cost more than $300. So to reduce cost & complexity, I am working on an adapter to use a JK shaft. That way you can buy whatever shaft you want...USA made, Chinese, or whatever and you will have more options than simply "use Spicer stuff or don't do it".

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    JPaul (04-19-2019), SoCalH3 (04-19-2019)

  11. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalH3 View Post
    Wouldn't suppose these THOR adaptors are still available..?
    Pretty sure I have a new THORparts adaptor that I could part with, if you're interested. Still in its original packaging.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    2009 H3T Alpha OffRoad w/ Tuff Country 4" lift

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    SoCalH3 (04-20-2019)

  13. #145
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    I am looking into a few different options, but if I come back to this I will hit you up. Thanks!

    '08 H3 Alpha Offroad
    35" Toyo Open Counry MT's, T-Bar Crank, Odyssey Extreme Battery, CBP Winch Mount, Smittybilt XRC 9.5K Winch, Hi-Lift Jack, Ready Welder, Schwarttzy Hi Clearance Leaf Mounts / 2" Extended Shackles / Rock Sliders,
    KMW Up Armor UCP, Defender Roof Rack, CSF Racing Radiator, Fox 2.0 Shocks, Superchips Tuner

    '06 H3 Adv/Lux (July 2012 to Aug 2014)

  14. #146
    Mud Terrain
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    Do you have this figured out or still looking at options? Any of you original adapters left?
    2007 Hummer H3, 3.7L, auto trans, adventure transfer case. Rear locker.
    315/75R16 Nitto trail grappers, Thor parts frt/rr bumpers, 10,500lb winch, OEM rock rails, ucp, rear disconnects, blah, blah, ect.

  15. #147
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    I'm going a different route, but DFW Spartan still had one on hand that he had offered up.

    '08 H3 Alpha Offroad
    35" Toyo Open Counry MT's, T-Bar Crank, Odyssey Extreme Battery, CBP Winch Mount, Smittybilt XRC 9.5K Winch, Hi-Lift Jack, Ready Welder, Schwarttzy Hi Clearance Leaf Mounts / 2" Extended Shackles / Rock Sliders,
    KMW Up Armor UCP, Defender Roof Rack, CSF Racing Radiator, Fox 2.0 Shocks, Superchips Tuner

    '06 H3 Adv/Lux (July 2012 to Aug 2014)


 

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