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BOOM! Long awaited driveshaft adapters...

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
The 3R CV uses two 3R u-joints and a special "Hummer only" casting that bolts directly to the H3's output flange.
The 1310 CV uses two 1310 u-joints and a Ford flange (requires the THORparts adapter).

3R joints use internal snap ring clips. 1310 joints use external c-clips. I would post pics but its sort of a big deal to get them to appear. Just go to google images, and type 3R vs 1310 and you'll see the difference.

Both cv's are very common but, IMO...the 1310 cv is a much smoother and quieter unit. The flange bolt pattern is of the 1310 is also very common...used on many Jeeps and Fords, while the 3R is used mainly on 70-80 GM and Dodge trucks. For some reason...NEAPCO decided to make the "Hummer only" casting using the 3R cv. So, to get the benefits of the smaller 1310, you must use an adapter. And that's what the THORparts piece is.

Nutshell.
 
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Hunner

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,334
Location
Arkansas
Just installed my Knight Metal Works skid plate and noticed grease around the area of the front cv drive shaft.
Well now would be a good time to install my plate and drive shaft that has been laying out in the shop.

After removing the old one and swiveling it around it stopped in several places and bound up.
Whew, I think this was a timely install.

Thanks 4Speed!

I got almost home when I realized I had not thought about the drive shaft part of this fix. Guess it's balanced, I could not tell any difference.





 
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mantracker

Well-Known Member
Messages
159
Location
Tennessee
I installed my Thorparts adapter and Tatton driveshaft Tuesday. This upgrade appears to be light years ahead of the OEM shaft. Bullet proof!
I put about 150 miles on it today, interstate driving. 85mph, no vibrations, smooth as glass. Very impressed.

Thanks 4speed for developing another great product, along with the Tatton shaft.
 

napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
Order for a drive shaft placed. Wonder if my CV will holdout for delivery.:giggle:


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mantracker

Well-Known Member
Messages
159
Location
Tennessee
Thorparts is the only one that know of that makes the adapter. I've purchased several of his products, with NO disappointments.
The shaft you'll have to order from Tatton.
 

napalmsticks

Well-Known Member
Messages
144
Location
NM
Thorparts is the only one that know of that makes the adapter. I've purchased several of his products, with NO disappointments.
The shaft you'll have to order from Tatton.

Yeah, grabbed the adapter from him and drive-shaft from Tatton. I can smell the CV joint after driving the truck to and from work. Thinking about just taking it out and driving in 4 hi until I get the drive shaft in as I don't want the current CV to fail while driving down the highway.
 

rascole

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,580
Location
Bellflower, CA
Yeah, grabbed the adapter from him and drive-shaft from Tatton. I can smell the CV joint after driving the truck to and from work. Thinking about just taking it out and driving in 4 hi until I get the drive shaft in as I don't want the current CV to fail while driving down the highway.
Probably a good idea. I had to do the same for a few days.
 

Romeo

Well-Known Member
Messages
166
Location
New York City
How's everyone liking the Taton drive shaft? Also are you all only changing the front and leaving the rear with the original? I plan on ordering one of these drive shaft and was wondering if I only should change the front. Also , does Thor parts still Have the adapter? If not I'm screwed

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
I got probably 15-20 adapters remaining...$99 shipped. If you want one, send me a PM with your direct email. I can connect you to Tatton Driveline for the new shaft.

On the rear...most guys run a bone stock shaft. It seems to do a good job unless you really lift the rear suspension. If you do a spring-over-axle mod on the rear suspension, you will notice the rear driveshaft will be too short afterwards. So I recommend installing a longer one to keep the slip-yoke from being pulled out so far. I am running over 6" of lift and I have zero issues running a stock slip-yoke and standard U-joints on the rear shaft. The shaft angle (even at full droop) is not enough to bother with anything more complex. I think my new shaft was approximately 1.5" longer than stock, and this put the slip yoke right back in the stock position.

There are a few H4O members that have added cardan joints (Bebe) and/or slip-yoke eliminators (jakeZ28) to rear shafts.
 

Romeo

Well-Known Member
Messages
166
Location
New York City
I got probably 15-20 adapters remaining...$99 shipped. If you want one, send me a PM with your direct email. I can connect you to Tatton Driveline for the new shaft.

On the rear...most guys run a bone stock shaft. It seems to do a good job unless you really lift the rear suspension. If you do a spring-over-axle mod on the rear suspension, you will notice the rear driveshaft will be too short afterwards. So I recommend installing a longer one to keep the slip-yoke from being pulled out so far. I am running over 6" of lift and I have zero issues running a stock slip-yoke and standard U-joints on the rear shaft. The shaft angle (even at full droop) is not enough to bother with anything more complex. I think my new shaft was approximately 1.5" longer than stock, and this put the slip yoke right back in the stock position.

There are a few H4O members that have added cardan joints (Bebe) and/or slip-yoke eliminators (jakeZ28) to rear shafts.

Thanks 4speed! Is there a reason why we should go with 1310s vs 1350s?
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
I'm sold out right now. But, I am doing some R&D on a new one that uses a JK shaft. The 1310cv flange is fairly common but, the problem is the quality of the 1310 parts you use. I had issues with several Tatton shafts only to find out they were assembled incorrectly with mismatched no-name (Chinese) parts. This discovery led me down the path to genuine Spicer parts. Once I started using quality Spicer parts, I can honestly say the shaft is much smoother than before.

Unfortunately there are a couple problems with the Spicer parts too...

First, the Spicer 1310cv must be field-built from individual Spicer pieces. Most cardan CV's can be bought totally assembled, and all you do is weld them to the tube and you're golden. But for some reason Spicer does not offer a pre-assembled cardan CV in the 1310 version needed. The cost of the individual parts is much higher than the cost of a pre-assembled unit.

Second, since the cardan must be field-built by the driveline guy...his labor is much more than it would be if it came pre-assembled.

All of this means the shaft price is quite high (over $450), plus the cost of the adapter. Quite frankly...a driveshaft like this should not cost more than $300. So to reduce cost & complexity, I am working on an adapter to use a JK shaft. That way you can buy whatever shaft you want...USA made, Chinese, or whatever and you will have more options than simply "use Spicer stuff or don't do it".
 
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