• Welcome to H4O! For a reduced ad experience, please login or register with the forum.

BOOM! Long awaited driveshaft adapters...

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
Coming soon...
3bdcaf584fd3d3457664d396dd3ecda7.jpg
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
H3 front driveshaft....output flange to 1310 cv. adapter. Bolt this on and run a real driveshaft...get that rubber boot crap out from under your Hummer.
 

derian06

Red Rockett
Messages
1,866
Location
Madison, AL
H3 front driveshaft....output flange to 1310 cv. adapter. Bolt this on and run a real driveshaft...get that rubber boot crap out from under your Hummer.

I have no idea how drive shafts work, but this basically gets rid of the rubber boot and allows us to use regular sized drive shafts? And do you sell driveshafts for post Rancho/SOA?
 

adventr

Well-Known Member
Messages
500
Location
United States
I like it. Is there already a source for pre-made drivelines that will work? Or would this be something that we would just have a local driveline shop build for us?
 

H3slate

Brush raked
Messages
983
Location
Tualatin, Oregon
I had mine built by a driveline shop recommended by 4 speed. It is a similar drive line used on jeeps, they just needed the length to make it fit.
 

H3HummerLineX

Well-Known Member
Messages
357
Location
SoCal, Chatsworth
Are you telling me that I can get rid of the factory shafts. No more tearing them up. I can crank it a little higher as well???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

adventr

Well-Known Member
Messages
500
Location
United States
Are you telling me that I can get rid of the factory shafts. No more tearing them up. I can crank it a little higher as well???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


You're thinking of the CV shafts (from differential to each wheel).

This part allows for replacement of the driveline that runs from transfer case to front differential.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,350
Location
Meridian, ID
I think I was the first one to run this adapter and let me tell you it rocks! Heres why...The driveshafts that worked for an H3 without an adapter was a big clunky thing...It was for an old chevy truck. I ran it back with the rancho and the SAS. If not kept greased often it would burn up (as with any shaft but this one would burn up quicker then usual!) Even when properly greased up and all is well its still a vibration prone driveshaft IMO. It was a made for a truck in the 70s with the locking hubs so it never spun at speed and wasnt designed to. So this adapter allows you to run a 1310 driveshaft and I have had it up to 90mph with 5.13s so its spinning faster then it would with 4.56s and it was vibration free. The reason is that the driveshaft that this adapts to is from a jeep and even though they are 2wd on the street they dont have locking hubs so they still spin and they can handle spinning at high speeds.

Maybe CJ remembers when I installed it but it was probably close to 9 months ago and this still has less vibration then a brand new one of the old setup I used to run.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,350
Location
Meridian, ID
tatton driveline is what I use. Ebay guy who has the best deals around and quality shafts, I am running his shafts front and rear with CJs front adapter and then my old clunky shaft as a trail spare and I plan to order a rear tatton trail spare shaft.
 

H3HummerLineX

Well-Known Member
Messages
357
Location
SoCal, Chatsworth
Ok that makes more since now.

And I thought it was a replacement for the CV half shafts. I was wondering how they would have mounted from the photos.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
MORE INFO...
These adapters will work on all H3 & H3T transfer cases (base or adv. pak). Installation is a breeze...simply un-bolt your stock driveshaft...bolt the adapter to the front output flange of the t-case...and bolt-on a custom shaft of your choice. They are 1/2" thick steel, and come with mounting bolts. I just got a batch of these done today...sort of testing the market at this point. The price is $99.00 shipped via USPS (while supplies last).

Both 06H3 and myself got our shafts from Tatton Driveline in Utah but, you can get a shaft made by any driveline shop. You need to specify a 1310-series CV, (which is a very common joint used on Jeeps, Fords, and Dodges). It has a 2" center pin and 3.5" bolt circle. You can also get standard (single u-joint) flanges in this same bolt pattern but, I would recommend the CV for the Hummer due to it being full-time 4WD. When you measure for your new driveshaft, make sure to account for the 1/2" thickness of the adapter. And obviously you'll need a slip-shaft at the front end, so you can get it installed. I believe the installed length is around 30" but measure to be sure.

This is a nice upgrade for ANY H3, although Rancho-lifted rigs might reap even more benefits. The Rancho kit puts extra angle on the front driveshaft, and often times the stock rubber-boot on the CV will rip and destroy the joint. This same shaft can be also be used on a Dana 44 should you decide to go solid axle someday! The 1310-series CV uses (2) back-to-back rigid u-joints (no boot). It has grease fittings. It can be rebuilt at home from parts bought at any AutoZone or NAPA.

If you want one...hit me up with your complete shipping address and direct email. I will send you a PayPal link for fast, easy, secure payment.
 

Highatop

Well-Known Member
Messages
600
Location
Florissant, Co.
I just replaced that Cv joint due to the Rancho lift and it broke on the trail. I for sure want one like we talked about in earlier post and emails. Hold one for me. More info and parts needed to complete this would be useful for me, due to where live.

Thanks for the upgrades and parts
 
Last edited:

4speedfunk

Well-Known Member
Messages
4,212
Location
Tardville
Colorado?...shouldn't be a problem. Tattons Driveline is right next door in Utah, and that guy can get you hooked up. You might want to verify this but, I think the stock H3 shaft is 30.5". The adapter takes up a half-inch, so order a "Hack & Tap 1310" shaft 30" long...and you should be golden.

BTW...this shaft has about 3" to 4" of stroke on the slip collar, so it has a lot of fluff built into it. Thats why it can be re-used on the solid axle as well.
 

06 H3

a.k.a. "The Jackal"
Messages
9,350
Location
Meridian, ID
I can check tonight...I'll be off work in a few hours.

I'll measure the distance from the t case to yoke and the width of the adapter.

You want 1310 u joint for a stock h3. My driveshaft might be a tad longer due to my added height but he builds them with a ton of slip into it so an inch or longer or shorter won't matter
 

jbrand11

Well-Known Member
Messages
69
Location
Montrose, Colorado
30" installed length...1310 hack & tap....2" center pin...3,5" bolt circle. It will have 3 to 4 inches of slip.


I spoke with Curtis from Tatton Axles today and he said the bolt circle should be 2.5" unless you are measuring diagonally but that if it is really a 3.5" bolt circle he would custom one. Can anyone shed some light on this as I am at work away from my Hummer for the next week and would like to get the axle ordered. Thanks in advance.
 
Top