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My Chevy K1500

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
Now that the hot weather has finally ebbed I had to get my project back under way. I finished painting the parts and I was just waiting for the right day to start bolting everything together. A couple of weeks ago I finished installed the 700R4 trans and transfer case. Today was the day. I managed to install the engine this evening and bolt it up to the trans. The work will get easier from here.
 

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Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
I have this aftermarket oil filter adapter that I wanted to use in place of the stock oil filter adapter. I found out the hard way that it won't work due to interference with the front diff. Oh well...I tried.DSCN0910.jpg
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
This is my old '89 Extended cab Chevy that I purchased new at Bayshore Chevrolet in Santa Barbara. I have a lot of memories in this old truck and could never get rid of it. I've kept it in fairly decent shape except for the paint. In the early 2000's I got stuck in a wind/ gravel storm on 395 near the Lee Vining area. That was the beginning of the end for the original paint job. It's one of the jobs that comes next after I get it running. I need to paint the rusty cab roof and replace the windshield.DSCN0907.jpg
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
I'm taking care of various parts in-between rainstorms and other interruptions. It was time to rebuild the driveshaft.DSCN0940.jpgDSCN0956.jpg This small one-ton press worked great to install the new U-joints.
DSCN0948.jpgDSCN0949 - Copy.jpg
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
I removed the tail housing from the TC and installed a new seal. I made sure I greased the seal and the slip joint on the driveshaft.

DSCN0962.jpgDSCN0963.jpg
I tried to make sure the grease nipple was installed in "compression" and not the weaker position. Sometimes mistakes are made in this area.
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
I finally got my K1500 running two (maybe three) weeks ago. I drove it to the Meet-and-Greet in Irvine for test miles. The engine runs smooth. I can't say much for the 700R4 trans. I had a rebuild done by a shop a friend of mine recommended. I was driving over Colima Rd. to Whittier the other night and at the top of the grade I suddenly had a neutral at the 3-4 gear position. I had to drive back to the house in second gear. I've got an estimate on a BTO trans. I just need to put the funds together. I have NO faith in that Covina trans shop when a trans dies that quick.
 

alrock

El Diablo
Staff member
Messages
10,447
Location
Scottsdale
There are some really cheap/lousy rebuilds out there. One in PHX was offering 4l60E swaps for something like $700.
 

Expendable

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,025
Location
Burbank, CA
I believe they made a fullsize blazer in 1994 on soon to be tahoe chassis. A girl in town has one.

whoops. looked it up to verify. it would be a K1500 blazer (introduction of the GMT400 platform) not a K5. 1992-1994 still blazer but 1500 instead of 5. and name change to tahoe in 1995.
 

arkalpha

Well-Known Member
Messages
162
Location
arkansas
It was a long time ago, but I had a 700R4 in an 87 K5 go out while going through some hills. I limped in to a GM dealer to check it and they said they would have to put one in. $1400 and 2 weeks later it went out again. I took it back to my local GM dealer since the trans fell back under their warranty. After they checked it, they determined the last time it was replaced the D-Tent cable was left off. I was running a 4" lift and 35" GroungHawgs(loved those). Long story short, make sure the truck downshifts correctly and verify that cable is on. Funny part is about a week after my local GM dealer installed theirs and took care of the cable problem I got a call from the 1st GM dealer saying they under charged me by $400 dollars-20 years later, they are still waiting. I drove that Blazer hard for a long time after that and NEVER had another issue.

TAPADROID
 

Sethmark

Well-Known Member
Messages
230
Location
SC
Yep. A 700r4 dies fast without the TV cable installed and adjusted correctly. I put one in a jeep with a non locking TC and it was great til I hit the highway. I couldn't quite get it cool enough without lockup. Probably the wrong stall.... Oh well.

Great to see you reviving your old beast. More people should endeavor to keep cars forever and just feed them new parts once in a while.
 

abearden

Well-Known Member
Messages
609
Location
N. Idaho
Very nice. The install pictures make me want to scrub everything before it goes in my truck; so clean.

Had a gas c1500 and loved it, but gave it up for a diesel k2500. Just love that general body style.
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
I've got the truck running with the new BTO trans. I've got good line pressure and after completing the tests that BTO specifies they said I was ready for the road test. I'm happy with the way the truck is driving and I think I'm almost ready to put the truck to work.DSCN1034.jpgDSCN1037.jpgDSCN1034.jpg
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
I was dripping gear oil from the right front IFS seal every time I parked the truck. I had to fix this leak. It's quite a bit of work, but I managed to finish it up in the last two days in SoCal summer heat.East San Gabriel Valley-20130717-00273.jpgEast San Gabriel Valley-20130717-00274.jpg

There's no easy way to do this. I had to drop the diff out of the mounts just enough to get better clearance. I did NOT disconnect the tie rods or centerlink to do this job.East San Gabriel Valley-20130718-00283.jpgEast San Gabriel Valley-20130718-00285.jpgThe factory used Loctite Red or something similar. I had to chase the threads on the five M10-1.50 threaded holes before I bolted up the right axle assembly.East San Gabriel Valley-20130718-00281.jpgThe old seal on the left was egg-shaped from wear.
The IFS axle on my K1500 is similar to the H2's so this may be of some help.
 

autumn walker

Well-Known Member
Messages
707
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada
I changed the left side on my H2; however, my right side has now developed a leak. I have been dreading this repair as I have read online that it is very easy to mess things up in the differential if you do not disassemble correctly - something will drop out of alignment and requires a full tear down to re-set.

Do you have any tips or details on the disassembly procedure?
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
I changed the left side on my H2; however, my right side has now developed a leak. I have been dreading this repair as I have read online that it is very easy to mess things up in the differential if you do not disassemble correctly - something will drop out of alignment and requires a full tear down to re-set.

Do you have any tips or details on the disassembly procedure?

You have to tear it down like you see in my pics. You can't just yank the axle out because of a shim that's slightly larger than a silver dollar.East San Gabriel Valley-20130718-00280.jpgThis is the right side axle with the gear and shim just resting on the top of the axle shaft. If you just pull the axle out without removing the axle tube this shim drops down in to the cavity shown here.East San Gabriel Valley-20130718-00285.jpgNo shortcuts. You have to take it apart to get it back together properly. It's really not that bad. I took one day to take it apart and clean parts, and the next day to put it back together. I'm sure you're younger than me and could do this faster. I kind of have to pace myself at my age...;^)
 

Mr_Rich

Well-Known Member
Messages
636
Location
High Desert & Santa Maria
In the last pic you can see that I dropped the diff out of the mounts which gave me a little bit more room to work in. The tie rods and centerlink stayed where they were and I didn't unloosen any steering parts.
 
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