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Hunner
09-11-2011, 07:34 AM
EDIT:9/26/12
I'm going to attempt to delete posts that are not specific fixes just comments. No offense to anyone. The best I can tell is it will still show up that I deleted it. It has been discussed we needed a clean thread on the solutions.

Links for more info on this fix by others.
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?3152-SO-is-there-really-no-way-to-fix-the-steering-rack-issue-on-the-H3
http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/forum/showthread.php?3494-Hunner-Sleeve-question-problem&highlight=steering
contact me if you have any other questions or suggestions.

Pricing and availability;
$40 shipped.

I worked out how to place the order by sending a Purchase order and arranged payment by business account check, and shipping, thru a mutual agreement by setting up an account. I don't have to do that much for my small business of Yacht Repair and Photography.
Custom production order approx. 3 weeks
I ordered 20 to get a bit of a price break, so that should take care of 13 of you that posted so far and I will fill the orders in the order of the posts first. It's been years since I did this mod and only two people have bought any by asking if I could get them. Now I guess mileage offroad is accumulating.
What will happen is to get that price again I would have to get 20 more and I'm not sure when I would have that many more sold to justify that.
When I get them then I will ask for payment, and see who commits.
What I had to consider just so you know.
Cost of bushing plus shipping to me.
I found that if I cut them they will fit a free small flat rate USPS priority mail box and is cheaper than parcel post.
so I will use some of my heavy kraft paper I pack the skids with so they will pass the rattle test
I don't trust the peel and stick seal on these boxes so I will use some nylon reinforced tape
still not sure if there is a paypal fee on this price still looking for that minimum
Besides cutting them and some discs for that and packing them up
I have to claim the income thru my business to be legit and pay Obama and the IRS there share and local government and state taxes.
Small businesses are getting hammered.
Anyway another Hunner mod is available in a few weeks.

The Problem (click this one for video)
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/th_20110306181501.jpg (http://s913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/?action=view&current=20110306181501.mp4)
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/7424-1.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/9934.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_9926.jpg
The Solution;
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/2430_resize.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/8152A_resize.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/_DSC8153_resize.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/9943.jpg
Ultimate solution
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/_DSC8158.jpg
Extra protection
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/fx7891.jpg

f5moab
09-11-2011, 08:53 AM
Will price include install????

Hunner
09-11-2011, 09:00 AM
Only if supplied with pizza and beer, AFTER. Limited to 1500 mile radius of Arkansas and only to a select few.:giggle:

JoshuaL
09-11-2011, 10:00 AM
I can't wait. i've been wanting to do that upgrade.

ReconH3
09-11-2011, 10:02 AM
That is so cool you are going to make these. I always believed that this was the definite weak link of the H3. It's like Ridge Demon's plates. Anyone with an H3 that wheels should have it.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

ahana
09-11-2011, 10:16 AM
so what are the advantages of this?

f5moab
09-11-2011, 10:36 AM
The steering gear flexes too much when off-roading, this helps to reduce that flex and save your gear from breaking. Toyota has the same problem with their rack and pinion steering gear assembly on their small trucks.

Hunner
09-11-2011, 10:53 AM
I think just the sleeve at the end is probably enough. I went all out on my 06 when I was wheeling hard and most weekends at Superlift. I wanted to try all of those things and prevent the rack from breaking.
I will try to consolidate more info here later now that I have a place for it.
The drivers side is mounted with two bolts and is secure with those isolater bushings giving some wiggle room. Probably prevents stress on the rack and jolts to the steering wheel.
So the flex at the other end gets to be more when the bushing wears and puts leverage on the other end separating the Mondo South Korean steel black tube from the aluminum housing where it was attached. That also breaks the smaller pipe (hydraulic line) and all your power steering fluid will run out as you try to steer with the rack moving instead of the tie rods. That will burn up the pump. If the tie rods did not break first they will probably now. Fix it now or fix all of that later.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/closeup.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/Potmetal.jpg

Bigunit
09-11-2011, 10:53 AM
I got one of these sleeves from Hunner & will be doing my fix the next time the bushing wears out. Mine is cut and ready to go!

Hunner is it possible to put the sleeve on without removing the rack?
If not Hunner, could you come to Arizona and help me install mine? ...just kidding...kind of! :shifty:

Did Mutaint ever put his on his rig?

alrock
09-11-2011, 11:17 AM
Hunner, I'll make it easy on you - you can do Bigunit's and mine at the same time! Excited that you're making these available.

f5moab
09-11-2011, 11:35 AM
Still have not worn out a gear bushing yet, but I'm going to try like hell to get it replaced sometime next January. Got the Chevy tech to replace my front diff support when it didn't need replacing last month.:shame:

Hunner
09-11-2011, 02:03 PM
Well I guess I oversimpified the bushing. I just thought everyone would go down to the local John Deere store or hydraulic shop and stickitinthere.
I can special order some and will cut them for those that might not can do that. It takes a thin blade grinder disk and lots of sparks cause it is a wear bearing of sorts and is real damn hard!
I could come to Arizona or we could line them up in Moab at the wood pile. ha ha but it would be so satisfying for you to do it yourself. lol I could hold your beer and mine and tell you how and give moral support.
No the rack stays in place and you could try to put it in without completely removing the bracket but I was doing lots of looking and studying how all that went together so I took the bracket off. I did cut off the bottom tab because I got tired of fiddling with it. I will find a post I had about that. The top bolt is well, @@##$$%&** to get all the way out. I will pop in here with that in a bit, I'm working on a project in the shop but I saw all this posts going ding ding and wondered what was going on with all this new interest in Crazy Dave's mod??
Oh and Mutaint is waiting on the odometer to spin a little more.

06 H3
09-11-2011, 03:32 PM
Im definitely gonna order one from you. Great products from a great guy who brings it upon himself to make parts due to lack of aftermarket. Now I just need a hunner xtreme products sticker!

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Hunner
09-11-2011, 04:40 PM
Ha ha I never even thought about stickers just some mods that sooner of later most people will need. Hmm wonder if I should get a Hunner Hummer girl contest going?? Nah, I probably could not post it on here anyway.
I will have a very limited few items and a very limited market going forward but like to be involved and help Hummer owners get what we cannot find other places.

ahana
09-11-2011, 05:20 PM
this is the next item in my shopping list!

Hunner
09-11-2011, 07:13 PM
I will try to order 10 on Monday. I will attempt to keep them priced like the others I have sold. I will charge a "handling fee" as we often see but there will be NO HUMMER tax!
I got to handle them, right? It's dangerous work too.
This is some hard stuff, destroyed this disc!!
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2271.jpg

06 H3
09-11-2011, 08:12 PM
I can cut that up...I have an angle grinder with some disks like yours, if you wanna do it though go ahead :)

DAGKANA
09-11-2011, 08:14 PM
Hunner keep me posted... I'm jumping on this when they become avail!

06 H3
09-11-2011, 08:43 PM
Welcome dan!

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Paladine71
09-11-2011, 09:49 PM
Ha ha I never even thought about stickers just some mods that sooner of later most people will need. Hmm wonder if I should get a Hunner Hummer girl contest going?? Nah, I probably could not post it on here anyway.
I will have a very limited few items and a very limited market going forward but like to be involved and help Hummer owners get what we cannot find other places.

We already started those threads in the NSFW section. I've been studying the competition too.... I vote that we have more than one winner.

I'd be interested in this product as well.

3Hummers
09-11-2011, 09:57 PM
If you wheel you will need this mod at some point.

Hunner
09-11-2011, 10:06 PM
I will go thru here and get an idea of how many to order and throw in a few extra. The place I order from has to meet a minimum order of other products from the place that makes them before they order but usually is fairly often. That gets us in on the minimum so I don't have to order a 144 or something stupid. ha

3Hummers
09-11-2011, 10:10 PM
Count me in on it Hunner.

supersapper-rpm
09-12-2011, 08:40 AM
Dont need it yet but I would grab one for the parts pile. Thanks for offering them up!

Hunner
09-13-2011, 11:00 PM
News flash. Besides all the time spent at the fabrication shop,
I contacted the manufacturer of wear sleeve bushings direct and told him my specifications. I set up an account thru my business and told them I would want 20 if that would be a big enough order. We are working on payment method and after receiving my PO he said production would take about 3 weeks. Cut out the middle guy, well except for me.
I have to work out some other details for certain on shipping before I can announce a price but it's looking better.

M22KLARS
09-13-2011, 11:04 PM
Good news!!

cbetts
09-13-2011, 11:06 PM
Count me in too.

06 H3
09-13-2011, 11:21 PM
Count me in too.

Should be a good mod and now I know where to go if I have issues with the install or vice versa

DJinCO
09-13-2011, 11:30 PM
Hunner, I need one of those. Count me in.

JGBB04
09-13-2011, 11:42 PM
Count me in

Hunner
09-14-2011, 11:23 PM
Ok here it is. I will put this at the top but here for now so it shows as a new post.

$40 shipped.
Think you guys can handle that??

I worked out how to place the order by sending a Purchase order and arranged payment by business account check, and shipping, thru a mutual agreement by setting up an account. I don't have to do that much for my small business of Yacht Repair and Photography.
Custom production order approx. 3 weeks
I ordered 20 to get a bit of a price break, so that should take care of EDIT:17 of you that posted so far and I will fill the orders in the order of the posts first. It's been years since I did this mod and only two people have bought any by asking if I could get them. Now I guess mileage offroad is accumulating.
What will happen is to get that price again I would have to get 20 more and I'm not sure when I would have that many more sold to justify that.
When I get them then I will ask for payment, and see who commits.
What I had to consider just so you know.
Cost of bushing plus shipping to me.
I found that if I cut them they will fit a free small flat rate USPS priority mail box and is cheaper than parcel post.
so I will use some of my heavy kraft paper I pack the skids with so they will pass the rattle test
I don't trust the peel and stick seal on these boxes so I will use some nylon reinforced tape
still not sure if there is a paypal fee on this price still looking for that minimum
Besides cutting them and some discs for that and packing them up
I have to claim the income thru my business to be legit and pay Obama and the IRS there share and local government and state taxes.
Small businesses are getting hammered.
Anyway another Hunner mod is available in a few weeks.

3Hummers
09-14-2011, 11:38 PM
Hunner, you need to make a fair mark up. No one will complain about that. Thanks for putting out the time and effort to bring these to us. I am definitely in for one.

Bigunit
09-14-2011, 11:41 PM
Hunner, put me down for one more!

Hunner
09-15-2011, 12:52 AM
For that new CE??

kd7irm
09-15-2011, 01:01 AM
Defiantly put me on the list Hunner!

(Don't laugh Alex! :)

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MUTAINT
09-15-2011, 01:04 AM
I got one of these sleeves from Hunner & will be doing my fix the next time the bushing wears out. Mine is cut and ready to go!

Hunner is it possible to put the sleeve on without removing the rack?
If not Hunner, could you come to Arizona and help me install mine? ...just kidding...kind of! :shifty:

Did Mutaint ever put his on his rig?

Not yet. I'm waiting to turn 50K soon. If I need a new rack by then I'll have a new rack & the Hunner reinforcement!


This is some hard stuff, destroyed this disc!!
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2271.jpg

No sheet!:thumbs: My ginder wheel looked like that after cutting just 1 of them. I haven't cut the other yet.
NOW, yo offer them "pre-cut"! :wink:

Going to the dealer next week for the "my 50K warranty is running out" list of things to check/replace. After that the bigger mods can begin:corn:

Hunner
09-15-2011, 01:13 AM
I told ya! It would not have been as bad but I got it in a bind trying to hang on! It looked like a B grade movie special effect with all the sparks flying. Ever notice that in those movies they always have a shot of somebody grinding in a dark warehouse. It's probably these things they are grinding!

They told me today they were heat treated and passed on this bit of description.
"Upon insertion into the holding bore (bracket in our case) the compression of the bushing allows the teeth to make contact on one side along the plain of the seam. The installed bushing has an operational radial and tangenitial force. As a result, there is high contact pressure between the bushing and the housing."
I thought that was an interesting bit of info.

H3slate
09-15-2011, 01:18 AM
Sounds like a good price! Put me down for one set.

Hunner
09-15-2011, 01:46 AM
Dang that's 17! Now you guys know painting your own is an option. I did mine red for photographic clarity but this is the natural look.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/8155.jpg

ncalphadog
09-15-2011, 03:45 AM
+1 for me.....thanks for offering them.

Bigunit
09-15-2011, 08:54 AM
For that new CE??

No, not yet, but I'd like to have one for down the road when I know I will need it for the CE. By the time I'll need it & with my luck, the rig will be out of warranty and who knows if I'll be able to find one then.

H3-ING
09-15-2011, 10:40 AM
Put me on the list

Thanks.

f5moab
09-15-2011, 10:48 AM
I'll take one....
(Is that 20?)

06 H3
09-15-2011, 11:40 AM
If you need a bigger order for the price being cheaper ill take 2 or 3. Ill hold onto em and sell em later or use if I ever get another one

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Hunner
09-15-2011, 11:49 AM
ATTENTION MUTAINT AND BIG UNIT
Growing up on a farm and doing lots of mechanical repairs thru the years as well as custom race car fabrication, a lot of this is just another day at the office for me so seeing over the years some people on the forums do not have a place or tools to do these things, I always try to explain in detail. Might be overkill for some but bear with me for the benefit of others.
As time goes by, we as a group are going to have to do these things ourselves or find friends with the skills or independent shops willing to attempt them.
Since you two guys have these already and may be installing them soon, I thought I should point out a couple of things. I have my spare rack set up so I could review how I did this. I have a spare sleeve I can use to mock this up.
This will also be an install thread I will move up to the start when I get it done.
First thing is you two need to know this before you try to install. I see that I had to grind off both ends of the sleeve where there is a taper. They tell me that is the way they are made and there is not an option. So it takes just a little grinding to make them fit snug down in the space between the hydraulic line fitting and rack end nut. Truly a custom fit. It will help retain the sleeve as well.
I will do this on the ones I have coming so they will be ready to install.
This shot without grinding that taper shows it would sit on the rack end nut. Not good, it should go down flush to the tube.
This first shot also shows the cut side and how it allows the bracket to "crush" the halves together. I put the teeth on the bottom in the actual install. I wanted the "halves to be front to back so the halves are pushed together.
If the bushing is not tight after putting the bracket on the only option is to remove the bracket and grind a little on the back side of that bracket where it contacts the other surface on the back side under the bolts.
Be sure and clean any metal shavings off the rack, like I see in this picture so as not to damage the seal during movement!
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2277.jpg
This is after I ground off the taper.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2278.jpg
It has been so long since I ran stock tie rods I can't remember how far on the tube the boots go.
However they will fit over the sleeve.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2274.jpg
On my BP tie rods I had to modify the outer end of the boot but also tried to re-install some while messing with all of this. I tried a large 1/4 wide zip tie but it kept slipping off. I tried a SS hose clamp but the screw assembly would cut the boot at full lock turn because of the way my boots are compressed.
I think for stock tie rods you should get a Lysle banding tool $9.00 Part #30950 and some CV Replacement boot band clamps $.65 part# QUD 636-3003 they come 19" long AND you can use them for CV boots as it says. You should have some spares in your bag with spare tie rods anyway.
You won't need to replace your existing boot on that end if it is in good shape. But you will probably have to cut the band on there now.
I should have some new boots today I ordered from the GMC dealer. They cut me some slack but they were still $30.00 each. Need to search for a cheaper source if possible.
This is the only shot I have of a stock rack with band clamp. The bushing is on there but I'm not sure that is exactly where it goes, this is just for display.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/7485.jpg
I also want to point out I took careful consideration in comparing the thickness of the sleeve to the rubber bushing so as not to add any pressure or misalignment of the rack which would cause leverage on the other end where they break.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/2280.jpg
As always no question is a dumb question. I never claim to be an expert or engineer, I just made some practical mods that I only share after I have tested them for many miles. If I did not make something clear please point it out. I want this to be as painless as possible and solve this source of problems.
Also I should make a note that you are using the OEM bracket, so if it is designed to breakaway in an accident I don't see how this would prevent that. Those two bolts mount the bracket real solid it's the rubber bushing that is the problem, in my opinion. In case you have not seen this and I know not on here, I tried to see what would happen by adding rubber to the bushing. I was not impressed and the whole mess soon squished out from movement.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/_DSC8150.jpg

Bigunit
09-15-2011, 01:15 PM
It has been so long since I ran stock tie rods I can't remember how far on the tube the boots go.
However they will fit over the sleeve.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2274.jpg

This is the only shot I have of a stock rack with band clamp. The bushing is on there but I'm not sure that is exactly where it goes just for display.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/7485.jpg



A million thanks to you Hunner for providing the detailed pics and explanations. You just answered my remaining questions regarding:

1) grinding off both ends of the sleeve where there is a taper to make them fit snug down in the space between the hydraulic line fitting and rack end nut so that the sleeve doesn't sit on the rack end nut and instead goes down flush to the tube; and

2) grinding a little on the back side of the bracket where it contacts the other surface on the back side under the bolts if the bushing is not tight after putting the bracket on. You had mentioned those things before, but the pics now make it easier for me to understand because I'm a simpleton when it comes to this sort of stuff!

I have an extra rack with the stock tie rods and boots already on it - so I can see how far on the steering rack tube, the boots go with your new sleeve and with the mount barcket on and I can take pics and let you know. Thanks again Hunner

Hunner
09-15-2011, 01:43 PM
Yeah that last part would be good to know about the boot. I was trying to figure it by the width of the rubber bushing in that picture. I think the boot will have to be slid off and replaced over the bushing on stock ones to get far enough to clamp it. A picture of that might help people understand what the heck we are talking about. It takes me some time to go back and explain what I did as I sort of made it up as I tried to install it. I will eventually have it all in order at the top in an install post.
I am very interested in your installation and see how it goes. I have mentioned this top bolt before, so don't cuss me when you work on that! I did not design that part.:no::)

MUTAINT
09-15-2011, 02:22 PM
I have a "spare" rack also and I hav e been using it for "fitiment" and such. I did notice the taper was going to push the Hunner bracket to where it was going to cover the nut. Grinding it down was my thought, thanks for the heads up so I don't have to second guess myself.....at least on this one!!:)

Hunner
09-15-2011, 02:35 PM
I had already ordered 20 and did not have to have them all spoken for before ordering, I was speculating.:shifty: Well it hit 20 that are spoken for. 06H3 you are welcome to all you want but this is just another example of the mindset of this core group cooperating for the good of all. Thank you for that offer.
I just solved the problem by having them amend my purchase order to 30!! The next price break is at 50.
Here is their reply.
With 30 pieces, we have maxed out how many we can run through the
> small-order department. Any additional quantities would need to go on a
> new order and would take about 6 weeks to produce. Thank you and I'm
> glad to hear that there is interest in our product.
>
So I will get 10 more for now.
Fixed
I already had one with your name on it F5, see
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2281.jpg

Hunner
09-15-2011, 02:42 PM
I have a "spare" rack also and I hav e been using it for "fitiment" and such. I did notice the taper was going to push the Hunner bracket to where it was going to cover the nut. Grinding it down was my thought, thanks for the heads up so I don't have to second guess myself.....at least on this one!!:)

I'm glad somebody is watching my back. I invite all questions and constructive suggestions.
I just know it works for me and has for many miles.
You all are sharing in the ongoing preservation of the species Hummer sub species H3/H3T!
I hope a source for racks can be found since SOME people are hoarding:shifty: I really like this guy.

MUTAINT
09-16-2011, 12:23 AM
YEP, I'm a H3/H3T spare parts "Whorde". The attic over the garage is getting pretty full, looking at a barn with a loft for the back 40!:shifty: (I like the "shifty" guy also)

M22KLARS
09-16-2011, 01:07 AM
I'm glad somebody is watching my back. I invite all questions and constructive suggestions.
I just know it works for me and has for many miles.
You all are sharing in the ongoing preservation of the species Hummer sub species H3/H3T!
I hope a source for racks can be found since SOME people are hoarding:shifty: I really like this guy.

Roof Racks? :shifty:

Hunner
09-16-2011, 01:07 AM
After saying that and implicating myself, it's finally cool here at night and I have a huge exhaust fan in the shop that when I pull down the steps to the shop attic it makes a nice breeze up there. I was up there rearranging, a never ending story. I found all kinds of neat Hummer parts I need to inventory. Good thing I built it with a laminated beam!
I'm having 24 inch duct work run to the shop for AC and heat. Got two tv's and my laptop hooked up out there when I first built it, woot woot man cave!

No, steering racks!! If I can't steer I don't need no stinkin roof rack:shifty:

3Hummers
09-16-2011, 01:10 AM
My shop is air conditioned also. Makes a huge difference in Texas. I have a huge stockpile of parts for H1s but not much for the H3.

SWANK3T
09-16-2011, 09:25 AM
I'll take one, if there are any left!

Hunner
09-16-2011, 11:57 AM
Swank3T, I gotcha covered. I'm working down the list of that additional 10 now. I will announce when I have them and send invoices in the order I received them. That way 30 people will not have to send replies. If I receive payment I will know they still wanted them! If I run out again I will have to reorder a small batch depending on how many want them.

Hunner
09-16-2011, 12:15 PM
I'm in this for the long run. I like my H3 better than any vehicle out there for my purposes of exploring and shooting photographs. So all along I have tried to make mine dependable and improve reliability where I can. I carry back up parts to the most failed items that would hopefully get me back to where I could get help if needed.
I hope you all find this rack fix will be the end of that problem for years to come. It has worked for me over a lot of varied terrain.

I'm trying to find the first date I posted I did this on my 06. I remember at that time several people said they could not see that being needed or that it was designed to move. Huh? wiggle around and clunk and apply pressure to the other end of the rack and possibly cause it to break and fail as well as sloppy steering feed back? I guess now many miles later and accumulation of offroad use it finally is showing up more on some vehicles. That shows how much wheeling I must have been doing when I was hitting Superlift most weekends and guiding. I wish I had thought of this before I broke my rack. In my case it was repetitive hard rock crawling, lifted too much at 24.5 and the day it actually broke I was guiding up a wash I had done many times before. However my locker after three trips to the dealer was not working and I admit spinning the wheels more than I normally do and whack, it broke. I was running my BP tie rods at the time which were designed to help prevent rack stress, but the damage had already been done because of the bushing. After the rack broke steering was really sloppy as I topped a rise and was running along a narrow trail with a steep drop off down a ravine. I stopped in time but slid over to the edge in loose rock. I had both front and rear winches with me that day and used the two to winch sideways back on to the trail. Once I figured out how to anticipate the slack in the steering, I was able to finish the trail and drive back to the parking lot where I had my trailer. The BP tie rods were still in place and allowed me to steer. In the cases I have heard of when the rack broke first or after, then OEM tie rods would both break. They were 14mm at that time.
Those of you that do a lot of wheeling and have not had a problem with this, yet, must be very careful drivers and have very little lift with the torsions. I know of at least one I am thinking of that must fit both categories.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/mt4403.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DSC_3121.jpg
It's ok, it buffed out.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/Superliftpinetree-1.jpg

3Hummers
09-16-2011, 02:23 PM
I don't wheel the H3 all that much but it has been on some very difficult trails. It is only a matter of time and that is why I am on the order list. Unlike my kids I don't have to make every mistake myself to learn the lesson.:)

Hunner
09-16-2011, 02:49 PM
Why can't we seem not to be able to pass on that knowledge and method of avoiding reinventing the wheel the hard way to our children, or son in laws???:shifty:

Nacho
09-16-2011, 03:02 PM
I will take one if available

3Hummers
09-16-2011, 04:18 PM
nacho , there should be some available

Hunner
09-16-2011, 06:21 PM
I got Nacho covered.
Now I have 5 left. I will double check that tonight.

MidnightH3
09-18-2011, 05:12 AM
Are there any of these left? I'm in the process of replacing my steering rack due to this failure so I'd love to make the new one stronger in the process. Also, does anyone know of a thread somewhere that gives some instruction on how to replace the rack and what is needed to do it? Thanks!

ReconH3
09-18-2011, 05:21 AM
Hunner. You should sell a kit for your double bracket setup.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

Hunner
09-18-2011, 06:44 AM
Are there any of these left? I'm in the process of replacing my steering rack due to this failure so I'd love to make the new one stronger in the process. Also, does anyone know of a thread somewhere that gives some instruction on how to replace the rack and what is needed to do it? Thanks!

I got two left. I put you down for one. I will notify you when I get them.
Thanks
why are we up this early??:shifty:

Did your rack break?
I can help a little.
FIRST!! tie off the steering wheel so it cannot turn. F5 says there is a hole in the steering column that I have not looked for yet that you can pin it. I intend to look for that today for future reference. If you disconnect the steering shaft from the rack the wheel will spin freely and screw up where it was centered. Then stabiltrak looses it's mind. There is a way to correct it that I had the dealer do after mine spun.
The bolt at the connection to the rack is threaded, twice. When you back it out make sure you don't take a BFH to it, just pull it out some and unthread it on the second side. Oh, and it is a tiny little thing that is your life line to steering. I have to check that but it was like 11 mm, I think.
The rack comes with the tie rods already attached in a big ole long box.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/_DSC7485.jpg
The inner connection is "staked" or de-tented to prevent it turning.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/6487.jpg
If you remove them you cannot do that again. The piece of metal breaks off. You can however use thread locker and if you get the right combination of a crows foot you might can get in there and torque it. GM makes a special fitting that slips over that, but I don't have one. I found that when you get it goodntite the detent lines up and that is as far as it will go.
I have not tried to install the rack with them attached. If you have some help holding things I guess that can be done.
It is very difficult trial and error to try to set toe in on the H3 by jacking it up and adjusting and lowering and checking. When you jack it up to adust it the camber will change only while it is up not really move any fasteners but the wheels toe in also. It would take a long time doing that and driving it to come back to alignment. If you have a couple of those dollies like at Harbor Freight for both front wheels, you can emulate the rotating plates on an alignment rack. Then using a calibrated stick or tape measure set your toe in fairly close. Then a trip to have an alignment done would be best.

Hunner
09-18-2011, 07:06 AM
[QUOTE=ReconH3;6837]Hunner. You should sell a kit for your double bracket setup.[quote]

I thought about it. Basically it's just a stock bracket and a spacer piece of channel. However, as I usually say, it really needs to be custom ground to match the frame cross member in case there is some variation on different vehicles. I would hate to have someone use one and it put some pressure on the rack. I ground on mine until it just slipped in there and was touching the rack and cross member. There is an overlap where it appears there are two halves to that cross member and a weld to go over. Then you have to drill a gnarly hole and line it up square when it comes out the other side of that. The pass side sleeve/bushing fix probably is enough, but for people that really work the H3/H3T they may want to consider that.
It was strange when I ordered a bracket for that it was a mirror image of the normal one? Maybe for a right hand drive? Parts guy was puzzled as well.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/7920.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/_DSC8158_resize.jpg
You can see how concerned I was about fixing this after a failure. I even double nutted it and of course Loctite and torqued it. I did use an OEM rubber bushing there for some wiggle room as I was also concerned about stressing the rack at mid point. This was on my 06, I have not done this on my Alpha, yet.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/centeraddedbracket.jpg

f5moab
09-18-2011, 09:41 AM
Did I say blue?
Here's the location...
GM has a special tool for this
AND, make sure before you start this to DISABLE THE AIR BAG SYSTEM. Don't want a really loud pop to ruin your day. Nine out of 10 times you can remove a steering wheel air bag and have no problem. One out of 10 will cost about $700 bucks to fix, make you dead for a few minutes, and cover your face with corn starch.:)
http://f5moab.smugmug.com/Other/Service-Illustrations-Photos/i-TvFd4CT/0/L/steeringcolumnlockpin-L.jpg (http://f5moab.smugmug.com/Other/Service-Illustrations-Photos/18881948_HM5Rpm#1484856060_TvFd4CT-A-LB)

ReconH3
09-18-2011, 10:14 AM
Here's the location...
GM has a special tool for this
http://f5moab.smugmug.com/Other/Service-Illustrations-Photos/i-TvFd4CT/0/L/steeringcolumnlockpin-L.jpg (http://f5moab.smugmug.com/Other/Service-Illustrations-Photos/18881948_HM5Rpm#1484856060_TvFd4CT-A-LB)

Looks like a Q-Tip :D


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

Hunner
09-18-2011, 11:43 AM
Thanks for adding that. Are you saying stickin something other than that tool up in there could blow the bag? or even that tool?
Maybe I will just stick to the sailing line and some knots?

I have always thought fuse 27 would do it, I believe?
Blue? I missed something or did you mean Blew as in airbag.
I broke the rack and did not blow the bag.
I installed the rack and removed it a couple of times mounting my BP tie rods and this bushing.
I thought I had read there were no physical sensors that the pooter sensed it.
Keep us straight on this and thanks for your help F5.
I will check that DVD.

f5moab
09-18-2011, 11:51 AM
Ok, I had a brain fart; not enough coffee. For some reason I was thinking of removing the steering wheel and column, and that is not necessary with a gear change. So, forget the information about the air bag system. Just locking the column in place affects nothing. It's Sunday...
:emb:

TrailBreaker
09-18-2011, 02:00 PM
If there are any left, please put my name on one. I just put my truck on the rack at work yesterday and saw the busing worn out (2nd rack in 52K miles), so I will be ordering a new one and putting this on. also noticed diff fluid leaking form the passenger side CV axle. Good times!

Thanks!

jason
TrailBreaker

06 H3
09-18-2011, 02:07 PM
If there are any left, please put my name on one. I just put my truck on the rack at work yesterday and saw the busing worn out (2nd rack in 52K miles), so I will be ordering a new one and putting this on. also noticed diff fluid leaking form the passenger side CV axle. Good times!

Thanks!

jason
TrailBreaker
My diff is leaking too from the driver side...I need to change out the axle seal, I have them but havent gotten to it yet. My leak isnt too bad though. Your lucky that you have your own personal team of mechanics at the dealership. :)

TrailBreaker
09-18-2011, 02:29 PM
My diff is leaking too from the driver side...I need to change out the axle seal, I have them but havent gotten to it yet. My leak isnt too bad though. Your lucky that you have your own personal team of mechanics at the dealership. :)

I am sure mine is leaking form the repair done a few weeks ago after my collosal trail failure (drivers tie rod, BOTH CV axles, a set of spider gears, and the ELocker pins, and now it seems the steering rack as well) it was a rough day on the trails that it looks like I am still paying for. As far as a "personal team of mechanics" the guys are good about giving me a hand when I need it, but honestly I like doing the work myself. It is nice having full dealership facilities to do work in.

MidnightH3
09-18-2011, 04:44 PM
I got two left. I put you down for one. I will notify you when I get them.
Thanks
why are we up this early??:shifty:

Did your rack break?
I can help a little.
FIRST!! tie off the steering wheel so it cannot turn. F5 says there is a hole in the steering column that I have not looked for yet that you can pin it. I intend to look for that today for future reference. If you disconnect the steering shaft from the rack the wheel will spin freely and screw up where it was centered. Then stabiltrak looses it's mind. There is a way to correct it that I had the dealer do after mine spun.
The bolt at the connection to the rack is threaded, twice. When you back it out make sure you don't take a BFH to it, just pull it out some and unthread it on the second side. Oh, and it is a tiny little thing that is your life line to steering. I have to check that but it was like 11 mm, I think.
The rack comes with the tie rods already attached in a big ole long box.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/_DSC7485.jpg
The inner connection is "staked" or de-tented to prevent it turning.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/6487.jpg
If you remove them you cannot do that again. The piece of metal breaks off. You can however use thread locker and if you get the right combination of a crows foot you might can get in there and torque it. GM makes a special fitting that slips over that, but I don't have one. I found that when you get it goodntite the detent lines up and that is as far as it will go.
I have not tried to install the rack with them attached. If you have some help holding things I guess that can be done.
It is very difficult trial and error to try to set toe in on the H3 by jacking it up and adjusting and lowering and checking. When you jack it up to adust it the camber will change only while it is up not really move any fasteners but the wheels toe in also. It would take a long time doing that and driving it to come back to alignment. If you have a couple of those dollies like at Harbor Freight for both front wheels, you can emulate the rotating plates on an alignment rack. Then using a calibrated stick or tape measure set your toe in fairly close. Then a trip to have an alignment done would be best.
Thank you for putting me down for one! My steering is leaking and the rubber bushing has basically torn itself apart so I'll have to see what else needs to be replaced along with the rack. At first I thought it was the lines from the pump but when I saw the bushing torn up and read all the posts of people having the same issue, I knew it was the rack. Thanks for the info on the steps you took, I've always wrenched on my vehicles but never had to change a rack before so the more info I have the better.

Paladine71
09-18-2011, 04:57 PM
Hunner, could you please post up a list of those with reserved sleeves?

ColoradoH3
09-18-2011, 05:14 PM
Wondering if you still have one of these sleeves available?

Hunner
09-18-2011, 05:55 PM
Hunner, could you please post up a list of those with reserved sleeves?

I'm working on it I have been out uh testing! I believe we are going to have to reorder. I'm going to leave the first order alone so it will stay in line. However, I can place another order when I see how much more interest there is. If it gets up to 10 or so I will order 20 more to get the same price.
Standby.......
Don't worry, be happy your #7!:)

Hunner
09-18-2011, 05:56 PM
Wondering if you still have one of these sleeves available?

Hang on I need to double check my lists and let you know. There may be 1 or 2 left. If so you would get in on this first batch. TrailBlazer may be number 10 on the amended purchase order. I will see how they will work this if I order some more on a different purchase order. I will post up later, let me do some cyphering:shifty:
Thanks

Hunner
09-18-2011, 05:59 PM
Ok, I had a brain fart; not enough coffee. For some reason I was thinking of removing the steering wheel and column, and that is not necessary with a gear change. So, forget the information about the air bag system. Just locking the column in place affects nothing. It's Sunday...
:emb:
I feel better already. I thought I had been lied to by the techs I talked to and was very lucky!!
Thanks for clearing that up!

Hunner
09-18-2011, 06:22 PM
Thank you for putting me down for one! My steering is leaking and the rubber bushing has basically torn itself apart so I'll have to see what else needs to be replaced along with the rack. At first I thought it was the lines from the pump but when I saw the bushing torn up and read all the posts of people having the same issue, I knew it was the rack. Thanks for the info on the steps you took, I've always wrenched on my vehicles but never had to change a rack before so the more info I have the better.
So is your seal at the end of the rack leaking? I have heard of one other person have that happen with the stock bushing. I have mentioned that I thought it would be possible with this mod that it "could" cause more wear on that seal since the whole end of the rack is not moving over a half an inch. I prefer to take my chances on that as opposed to breaking a rack on the trail, losing fluid and burning up the pump or worse drive off a cliff! It will be interesting to see how your techs respond to this mod. Keep us posted.

Hunner
09-18-2011, 07:29 PM
Nobody is going to be left out. Here is what I have based on past communications some time back before I ordered any and now that I have. Some replies sounded like they meant they wanted them but if you are on here and don't, let me know.


1 F5 shipped
2 Alrock
3 Joshual shipped
4 Ahana
5 06H3 shipped
6 Paladine71
7 3Hummers shipped
8 supersapper-rpm
9 cbetts shipped
10 djinco
11 jgbb04
12 bunger shipped
13 bigunit shipped
14 kd7irm
15 H3slate
16 NCalphadog
17 H3ing
18 xllkoyokollx
19 JR3T
20 swank3T
21 Nacho
22 TrailBreaker
23 midnightH3
24 ColoradoH3
25 08h3
26 reaper
27 Portager shipped
28 H32NV
29 AZTraveler
30
31
32

I think as of right now everybody is covered on this first batch of 50.
I will start a new list if there are more people and give it a few days to see what interest there is. I want to get enough to have some spares while I'm doing it as new people come along.
Sounds like trailbreaker should have some feed back from a dealer for us after having a current failure.
Yell at me if this does not cover you.:shifty:

TrailBreaker
09-18-2011, 07:42 PM
Thanks Hunner. Glad I made the initial cut. By chance is there a time frame for availability? I don't mean to rush, just only want to disassemble the rack and do the axle seal all at one time. And yes, we will be getting some opinions from the techs at work. So far they love all the modifications and improvements everyone here has come up with. They all agree the racks are a definite weak point, and are looking forward to seeing this solution. We have been coming up with all kinds of options ranging from modding a 2500 rack to a full hydraulic set up, and there has even been some talk with me about going full IFS/IRS from a 2500/3500 truck. Which would be really different.

Hunner
09-18-2011, 07:53 PM
They told me three weeks as they have to manufacture these to my specs and do not stock any. I would get your rig fixed and working. The bracket and possibly the tie rod boot on stock tie rods is the only things you have to remove to install this. I can't remember if there is room with the stock boots on or not. It has been too long. Somebody was going to check that? I don't think there is. So using a generic 19 inch long CV boot clamp and a tool to adjust that to length will be needed. I posted that above somewhere.
Ask those guys if they can get the "quick" clamps that come on new boots.
I got some new boots from the dealer and they are not rubber like they used to be, but some sort of synthetic pvc or something and stiff. They have them for 14mm or 16mm with a formed outer end. That probably will not work for my BP tie rods as I had to cut the rubber ones to go over my clevis adapter. I have some other kind coming Monday.
OEM are now $30 with my discount and not shipping at the GMC place.
These I am getting are $18. We will see.
I don't think it is legal to run full hydraulic on the road and if it fails you are done, no back up.
There may already be someone with a 2500 rack.:shifty:

ColoradoH3
09-18-2011, 08:08 PM
Hunner, thanks for getting me the spare! I really appreciate it! Just send me that paypal invoice when you want the moola! Thanks again.

TrailBreaker
09-18-2011, 08:11 PM
Ok cool. Thanks. I will get the truck repaired then, especially since it doesnt require full removal to install the sleeve. I am considering the BulletProof tie rods as well as extra insurance. I will take a look at the catalog tomorrow and check the pricing on the boots and clamps. I know the guys in the shop have the clamp tool needed, so that's not an issue. I will PM you tomorrow with any information I can find. Thanks again

Jason
TrailBreaker

Hunner
09-18-2011, 09:34 PM
Are you getting a whole new rack? Is that because the seal on the pass side is leaking?

MidnightH3
09-18-2011, 10:31 PM
Are you getting a whole new rack? Is that because the seal on the pass side is leaking?
I've got to take a closer look at it, it could be the seal or maybe one of the lines. Theres so much steering fluid covering everything it was hard to tell where it was coming from. I didnt have a second person with me when I looked at it to turn the wheels while I was underneath it to see if the steering rack is actually separating or not. I plan to take another look at it on tuesday and I'll have some help then. Thanks again for putting this together for all of us, its cool when people find fixes like this!

Hunner
09-18-2011, 10:50 PM
Wait I'm getting confused, which is normal. Did you AND Trailbreaker have rack problems? If the rack is actully separated, when you steer the outer part would move with the inner rack making for some crazy steering. If it is broken and the short line is also broken and leaking you better make sure to keep fluid in the pump or it will burn it up, oh and you won't be able to steer!
Straighten me out here, are all these things exploding at near the same time. How many miles you have on the ticker?

MidnightH3
09-18-2011, 11:10 PM
Wait I'm getting confused, which is normal. Did you AND Trailbreaker have rack problems? If the rack is actully separated, when you steer the outer part would move with the inner rack making for some crazy steering. If it is broken and the short line is also broken and leaking you better make sure to keep fluid in the pump or it will burn it up, oh and you won't be able to steer!
Straighten me out here, are all these things exploding at near the same time. How many miles you have on the ticker?
Yep, I'm having issues as well with the rack. I'm still able to steer so I dont think the line is broken...yet. My steering wheel doesnt always center in the same spot so I think it is moving somewhat.

TrailBreaker
09-19-2011, 07:05 AM
My rack isnt "broken" per se, the bushing is destroyed on the passenger side, and when I steer to lock (either left or right) the pump groans something awful. I ma sure it is all related to the trail failure a few weeks ago, and with all the other damage, the rack just wasnt looked at carefully. But now that Midnight brought up the issue of his steering wheel not always going back to center in the same spot, I notice dmine did that this morning on the way to work. I hadnt noticed it before, but that doesnt mean it wasnt happening.

I have 52,267 miles on my truck, but only about 20,000 on this rack. I replace the original rack when I got back form Moab in April because the bushing was worn out.

Hunner,
I am at work now, and will be looking up those boots and such. i wil PM you by lunch.

Jason
TrailBreaker

Hunner
09-19-2011, 12:27 PM
Yep, I'm having issues as well with the rack. I'm still able to steer so I dont think the line is broken...yet. My steering wheel doesnt always center in the same spot so I think it is moving somewhat.

That could be because the two parts of the rack are moving some instead of moving the tie rods directly!
Be careful with that. If it is snapped it could move enough to cause more damage to the tie rods, or worse, loose control.
Check that fluid level.
The short line cracked on mine but did not come apart. I have pics that people sent to me and described the same thing happened. That is why I made that flex line that would not come apart if the rack broke. Then I decided to try to prevent it from breaking in the first place with the sleeve/bushing and then went further with the center bracket.

Hunner
09-20-2011, 12:01 AM
I spent all afternoon creepy crawlin under the H3. I wanted to check everything under the front end. I'm going some where just not sure where or when. I needed to replace my passenger side tie rod boot. I have had trouble keeping that one intact for some reason since I installed the BP tie rods. That is another story sort of.

While under there I decided to remove the sleeve/bushing and grind on the bracket some to make sure it was seated. I found that the back of the bracket around the bolt holes was not really flat. I shaved off some metal. I looked at the lower mounting hole and realized the bracket was thicker or raised around the nut insert. I hit that pretty hard. I had to use a new disc that was 4/1/2 and remove the guard. So I wore goggles! Grinding that was better that hitting the bracket too hard and reducing the thickness. The head of the grinder would not let me go very high but as high as where the bracket contacted it.
The OEM original boots are flexy rubber. I think I mentioned the OEM replacements are a bit stiffer. The old style would go over the sleeve/bushing I don't know for sure the new ones will. I boiled one to soften it and could not get it on. It will fit over the end nut and probably would stay using a skinny hose clamp or ready clamp if I can find some the right size. I'm working on it thru some sources I have. Those work with NAPA plier crimpers that go straight on. I did not have enough room to use the longer bands for CV boots because you have to fold the tool over and hammer down the crimp tabs. Unless you damage a boot you probably have the soft rubber ones.
I got somebody I think at a dealership that is going to install the sleeve/bushing and they will hopefully report on their findings.
I finally had it with the tab on the bottom of the clamp. I had shortened it but tonight I cut that sucker off so I could wiggle and fit easier. Once you do that you could remove the sleeve without taking off that top bolt which is not fun.
More later when I find out more. I'm just trying to save everybody some time.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/2308.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/2316.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/2314.jpg
I also media blasted this one to smooth it out after grinding, but it should be painted to keep it from being rusty. Just my way of making things look finished and see potential problems. Then go get mud all over it!
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/2301.jpg

Hunner
09-20-2011, 05:28 PM
I was so pleased with how tight the bushing fit with a little grinding that I decided I should try a 2 inch sleeve. I went and looked at a used H3 and the boot goes on all the way to the bracket. That is what I was trying to find out. It needs enough room it won't pull off.
So, many hours of fitting and figuring and studying the options;
I decided the quick clamps at about $7.00 each that require a $30 tool and no one loans them was out.
I regular SS 2 1/2 inch clamp is serviceable and re-useable. You could use a cam clamp for even tighter fitment if needed.
I had to get a cam lever clamp to get the outer boot end tight on my BP. I cut off part or the stem but needed to leave enough to make it reach before torquing in down. If it holds up good I will cut that flush. That is what you see sticking out over there. It clears but looks like crap!
I will call in the morning and hopefully change the order from 30, 3 inch to 50, 2 inch. If they cannot change the first order I will just get that chop saw I keep putting off!!
The main reason I want to do it this way was that I found out these new replacement boots by MONDO the makers of the rack, are different material than our original boots. I wanted everyone to have the option in the future to install a new boot without a hassle. They would not fit over the sleeve like the old ones. I guess we got lucky on me needing new boots.
So Big Unit and Mutaint you might want to study this option.
This was a funny ritehere. I got frustrated repeatedly getting to that top bolt. I cut a deep socket to about halfway between a short one and full deep socket. Worked great!
Arky inginenewity.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/2327.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/2324.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/2323.jpg

Hunner
09-21-2011, 11:06 PM
Got some news. I think the 2 inch long is the way to go to insure you can fit replacement boots.
I called to amend my order but the 3 inch were already sent out for hardening. Oh well, my fab shop here said they would cut them or I may get the chop saw I always wanted.
So I asked about adding 20 each 2 inch to the order. They happen to have some blanks that size and will stamp the teeth and send them all Friday! Stay tuned.
I also got a bit more technical details. I was concerned about the heat from cutting them but was told that it would probably not affect hardness and that in our application should not be a problem.
They are made from chromed cold rolled steel (maladine?) (I thought he said brinell) hardness 48, AISI 61/50 spring steel.
I will learn more, always do.
I guess now my hearing is going..............

3Hummers
09-22-2011, 01:35 AM
It is he'll getting old isn't it Hunner? :)

06 H3
09-22-2011, 01:41 AM
I hope you wore earmuff things when you were younger. Now that I have started fabrication I try to keep some sort of ear protection on when using any type of grinder...those suckers are loud.

Hunner
09-22-2011, 12:00 PM
It is he'll getting old isn't it Hunner? :)
but better than the alternative!! too many trails, not enough time.

Hunner
09-22-2011, 12:09 PM
I hope you wore earmuff things when you were younger. Now that I have started fabrication I try to keep some sort of ear protection on when using any type of grinder...those suckers are loud.
Too many explosions and too many guns, it was a trade off on wanting to hear people coming or protecting my ears. what? earmuffs when I was younger, only when it was cold!
I wear all that stuff NOW and have always worn glasses that have saved me but now I cover them with clear masks which of course fog up. For painting I have a fresh air fed mask. Apparently the brain damage is already done.:whaa:
I did get a strand of something toxic as the doctor said, I thought it might have been fiberglass or carbon fiber, in my eye, now I have dry eye and little dams in my tear ducts, it's alway sumpthin!!
You need to wear a mask too, inhaling that grinding dust is not good.

06 H3
09-23-2011, 02:27 AM
Too many explosions and too many guns, it was a trade off on wanting to hear people coming or protecting my ears. what? earmuffs when I was younger, only when it was cold!
I wear all that stuff NOW and have always worn glasses that have saved me but now I cover them with clear masks which of course fog up. For painting I have a fresh air fed mask. Apparently the brain damage is already done.:whaa:
I did get a strand of something toxic as the doctor said, I thought it might have been fiberglass or carbon fiber, in my eye, now I have dry eye and little dams in my tear ducts, it's alway sumpthin!!
You need to wear a mask too, inhaling that grinding dust is not good.

I have gotten the ear protection and eye protection covered. Metal shavings only had to get into my eye once before I learned that lesson. Luckily my neighbor is an eye doctor or else I would have gone to e.r. he showed me what he took out of my eye and it wasn't one little piece it was bad. I will look into something for breathing though. I dnt want to have bad lungs. That means no more bishop trips

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Hunner
09-23-2011, 11:02 AM
The Bishop trip was dusty?
You should check into the proper respirator for welding fumes also.

06 H3
09-23-2011, 11:13 AM
No high elevation...its tough to walk up those steep climbs at 11k and I am just not used to the extreme altitudes yet with bad lungs it will be even worse.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Hunner
09-26-2011, 02:32 PM
Decided to do a little "rack whacking" on the way to the lake. So I stopped in at Superlift to run a few trails and work that new 2 inch sleeve/bushing. Field testing Hunner mods is a tough job but well, you know that one.................and it's my job! Never offer a mod before it's time and properly abused, uh I mean used.
I asked if the level 3 trails were still level three or had erosion and traffic done a number on them. "Oh, they are in good shape we dozed a few of them and added some since you were here." hmmm yeah I will proceed with caution by myself and with no one to spot.
First thing off the Hwy 1 Superlift main trail I wanted to go up the gas line. I used to break people in going up and down this. Well that rock on the left of the picture is now sticking up fairly high about two feet. I pulled up to it and it would do a number on the front skid had I proceeded. Glad I did not come down that trail thinking it would be ok. It's also off camber up about that big rock. I wonder if outriggers could be fitted??:whaa:
So rather than press it I checked out some other trails.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/Superlift/DAH_2356.jpg
This was shot a few years ago looking back from that same place. The line at that time was over behind those red bushes. You can see the pipe line goes on and on.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/Superlift/8x10003.jpg
This guy was not even to that part. He was at the bottom where the trail splits. As usual pictures somehow do not depict the actual angles. I lived to wheel another day!!
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/6x43133.jpg
I tried some flex to give the pass side mount some pressure. Ever notice how hard it is to open the drivers door at this angle up hill?
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/Superlift/2352.jpg
I always liked this trail and the scenery at the top.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/Superlift/2361.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/Superlift/2360.jpg
This is a good place to check that rack.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/Superlift/2350.jpg
Everything looks good.

3Hummers
09-26-2011, 04:50 PM
Cool. Looks like a neat place also.

Hunner
09-28-2011, 08:59 PM
Sleeves/bushings are done, shipping out to me Friday! I got some extra.

H3slate
09-28-2011, 09:30 PM
:woot:

DJinCO
09-28-2011, 09:38 PM
Hunner,
Just say when and where you want the money.

Hunner
09-30-2011, 01:02 AM
I want to wait until I see them!
Thanks

reaper
10-01-2011, 11:22 PM
Count me in too when you get them.

Hunner
10-02-2011, 12:54 AM
They did ship late Friday and should make it here Wednesday. I'm ready to start putting the finishing touches on them. I will get me a jig built Monday to hold them in the chop saw. I will send invoices when I open the box.

UPDATED H40 LIST: 10/4

1 F5
2 Alrock
3 Joshual
4 Ahana
5 06H3
6 Dagkana
7 Paladine71
8 3Hummers
9 supersapper-rpm
10 cbetts
11 djinco
12 jgbb04
13 bunger
14 bigunit
15 kd7irm
16 NCalphadog
17 H3ing
18 xllkoyokollx
19 Beitodesstrafe
20 JR3T
21 swank3T
22 Nacho
23 midnightH3
24 ColoradoH3
25 08h3
26 reaper
27 Portager

I think as of right now everybody is covered on this first batch I increased to 50 units.
I want to get enough to have some spares while I'm doing it as new people come along.
Besides having to cut in half I have to shorten those first ones since I discovered the new replacement boots would not fit over them. Glad I tried that. I know I mentioned that before but I like to keep you guys in the loop.
I had a spare 3 inch and modded it to a 2 inch, ground the edges and media blasted it. I sent that one to trailblazer.
Sounds like trailbreaker should have some feed back from a dealer for us after having a current failure.
So that is not out of the batch I ordered.
Yell at me if this does not cover you.:shifty:

3Hummers
10-02-2011, 10:36 AM
Looks like a successful roll out of a new product.

Hunner
10-03-2011, 08:24 PM
Just checked and there was a "mechanical failure" never saw that before. Expect one day delay it says.
OK let's do this. Since it will take awhile for everyone to check in on the list to save me some time, as I may be leaving these parts for a Humabout why don't we start now sending me your address so I can make 32 labels!! I probably have 100 or so now from the skids list but this will keep things straight, I hope.
When I get the bushings I will send invoices if you need me to. Indicate that in your email.
I will also announce it is time to paypal when I have them. I'm still being cautious.

So, email your "correct" address to:
1secondwind@comcast.net

be sure and put "Hummer bushing" and your forum name, well not "forum name" but the actual name you use on the forum not "Hunner" but like that. I know you guys......:roll:
in the subject as I don't know what alias you go by in the real world!:shifty: I don't want to open things that I don't know the sender. I just built up a new hardrive and want to keep it clean. I might even switch back to the old one.
I will send out the first 20 in one batch when I make the cut the length of the back side and blast them, to the first 20 on the list that get me their address.
Then I will need some time to make that cut and reduce the length to 2 inches on my first order before I figured out about the boot.
When I get that done I will continue down the list and send them to anyone else that is added to the list. I have 50 coming but I will hold back a couple for research.
I'm waiting...........:shifty:

JoshuaL
10-03-2011, 09:00 PM
email sent

JoshuaL

06 H3
10-03-2011, 10:18 PM
Email sent

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

DJinCO
10-03-2011, 11:10 PM
E-mail sent. No hurry necessary!

Bigunit
10-03-2011, 11:18 PM
Hunner,
No hurry either but I''ll send you my info tomorrow morning. Thank you sir!

Portager
10-04-2011, 10:41 AM
Hunner if you have any extras can you add me to the list?

Hunner
10-04-2011, 01:11 PM
They are getting closer. They are taking a tour of the East! Made it from PA to KY. Says Thursday by end of day.
Going to TSC for my blasting media. Best deal on Black Beauty coal slag.
Got a new water separator on the mid size compressor and the big one so I can keep things dry. Probably fire up Big Black Momma for more capacity and steady pressure. Plus it's outside so it is not as noisy in the shop, huh you talkin tome':shifty:
I'm gearin up!

3Hummers
10-04-2011, 07:35 PM
Looking forward to getting this installed.

f5moab
10-04-2011, 07:41 PM
I forgot to add "hummer bushing" to the email:gaah:

Bigunit
10-04-2011, 07:44 PM
I forgot to add "hummer bushing" to the email:gaah:

In that case f5 - "no soup for you"!

H3slate
10-04-2011, 07:52 PM
email sent.

Patiently waiting. :woot:

06 H3
10-04-2011, 10:39 PM
I am so pumped for this mod. I can definitely tell my rack bushing is out. There is a good amount of play and this should fix it. I will throw some red paint on it and it will go in asap.

f5moab
10-04-2011, 11:08 PM
I'm waiting until after next Februry to install mine. That will be it's four year anniversary so the gear will be off warranty and no $hit from a dealer. Besides; going to try and get a new rack this winter off warranty.:thumbs:

So Hunner, if you have some who need it for the first shipment and going to install right away (other than Big Unit:giggle:) I can wait until the last shipment. But let me know when you start charging so I can paypal you right away.

Hunner
10-04-2011, 11:49 PM
Notta problem, your first out of this batch. I sent that spare I already had to trailblazer so he will hopefully stickit in there and report.:shifty:

Bigunit
10-05-2011, 09:10 AM
So Hunner, if you have some who need it for the first shipment and going to install right away (other than Big Unit:giggle:) I can wait until the last shipment.

:giggle:

Thanks Hunner. Email sent with my info. You can go ahead & send me f5's too & we just won't tell him. :)

On a serious note Doug, I am sending something your way that I've been holding for you. I'll give it to Alex to give to you. Do you remember waht it is?

f5moab
10-05-2011, 04:14 PM
:giggle:

Thanks Hunner. Email sent with my info. You can go ahead & send me f5's too & we just won't tell him. :)

On a serious note Doug, I am sending something your way that I've been holding for you. I'll give it to Alex to give to you. Do you remember waht it is?

A little black cap....

H32NV
10-05-2011, 06:56 PM
WANT. PM Sent.

Hunner
10-06-2011, 06:55 PM
I got the jigs made to cut the length and cut in half. I made labels for the 14 people that emailed their address.
I got 40 boxes from the USPS, what a deal, free!
I hope to announce around 7 if the UPS guy comes again tonight. If so you can either pay-pal me or if you sent an email I can invoice you.
I will post up a picture and announce they are here at that time.
I will ship them to people that pay so watch for it:shifty:
I guess if they get here you can pay-pal AND send your correct address.
I would like to ship out about 20 Friday if I get them cut tonight.
Where is that damn brown truck???

f5moab
10-06-2011, 07:26 PM
I forgot, what is the final price?

Hunner
10-06-2011, 07:49 PM
It's $40 shipped but give me a little more time to make sure they really get here. I don't want to have to refund 34 payments. It says delivery by end of day which to me after 7 pm is pretty much past sunset and the end of the day. UPS is getting sloppy. They are too cheap to hire more drivers. This poor guy is worn out by the time he gets to me at the end of the line. Hell we have to pipe in sunshine down here!

f5moab
10-06-2011, 08:10 PM
So, email account 1secondwind@comcast.net is the one to use for paypal? When you say it is ok?

Hunner
10-06-2011, 09:02 PM
Ok here it is!!!

One of the reasons I held off on this was in case there was some safety reason not to do this. I broke a rack and was not real happy, actually I was real mad when I figured out how that OEM mount failed and about having my steering fail and almost slid down a mountain ravine that went for about 50 yards. I say almost because some pine trees stopped me. I'm glad I was going at a moderate speed and not on a public highway with oncoming traffic.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/Superliftpinetree-1.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/_DSC7422.jpg
As I have stated previously between my 06 and 08 H3 I have run with this set up for over 50,000 miles. In that time some of you may know, I have been a few places,,,,,,and back. NO steering failure.

So I offer these to you I consider friends, but want to make it clear I cannot be responsible for your installation of the bushing. The bracket MUST secure it so that it will not move. I even suggest tapping both sides with a hammer to make sure it is secure. Painting in a light color and periodic checking is recommended. Over the years I have become a firm believer in thread locker for bolts.

Public Statement and disclaimer;
By making payment for these steering rack bushings you are accepting the responsibility of proper installation on your part of this modification to make your H3/H3T rack safer by not wobbling around in the mount. Experience has shown this movement of the stock rubber bushing can cause the rack to break at the other end and or cause failure of the tie rods.
By making payment and purchase of this bushing you agree not to hold David A. Hunter DBA Secondwind Services liable for any accident or failure of the steering components or bodily harm.
I hope you will be happy with this and it will keep you safe and save you time and money.
Sincerly.
David A. Hunter aka Hunner

PS,
This possible liability was also my concern in 2006 on my I-5 about producing my air intake tube, so I passed on distributing those. I also run one on my 08 Alpha that I made. However at some point GM came out with the modded tube intake so sort of nixed that idea it would be a problem.

Hunner
10-06-2011, 09:03 PM
They are here!!
I shall begin grinding.
Now would be the time to send pay-pal $40 american to

1secondwind@comcast.net

http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/Bushings.jpg

Now if I can keep from setting the shop or my hair on fire.........
Only problem I got now is my goggles fog up so I have to stop after 3 or so.
I'm test fitting each one to the spare rack.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2397.jpg
I'm thinking about those Rocket City Rednecks and trying to hold the saw firmly.:giggle:
I have a fire extinguisher nearby!

JoshuaL
10-06-2011, 09:36 PM
Money sent

JoshuaL

f5moab
10-06-2011, 09:41 PM
The money has been sent!
, you have sent $40.00 USD to 1scondwind@comcast.net.



We sent a receipt to your email inbox. We also sent a notification to 1scondwind@comcast.net.

Hunner
10-06-2011, 10:13 PM
Money sent

JoshuaL

How the hell you think I'm doing?? Your opinion counts! I figure you will jump right into installing this. Give us a report and any suggestions.

f5moab
10-06-2011, 10:24 PM
First one to install must produce a very detailed installation instruction set with plenty of photos.:)

Hunner
10-06-2011, 11:18 PM
I thought "I" did that??
I got the 20 short ones cut and blasted. Yours is in the box!!

Hunner
10-06-2011, 11:25 PM
I mentioned this way up there somewhere but be sure and mark it for "goods" paypal does not like me being "gifted"

DJinCO
10-07-2011, 12:29 AM
Hunner,

I hate to be stupid but this thread has two emails listed:

1scondwind@comcast.net
a (1scondwind@comcast.net)nd
1secondwind@comcast.net

Kind of important, which e-mail address is the correct one?

Thank you, Doug

Hunner
10-07-2011, 12:53 AM
OH CRAP I will have to find that first one.
It's has been in there many times same as the skids. That can't be a valid email address.

1secondwind@comcast.net

guess now my eyes are going.
It was in post #133 but I fixed it.

Hunner
10-07-2011, 12:59 AM
The money has been sent!
, you have sent $40.00 USD to 1scondwind@comcast.net.



We sent a receipt to your email inbox. We also sent a notification to 1scondwind@comcast.net.

I have been flooded with pms and email. I guess I was in a hurry on that #133 that was right after you asked about the email.
It should have rejected that. If you can't get them to clear that up I will cover it. I'm sending yours tomorrow anyway.
sorry I had a lot going on here

Hunner
10-07-2011, 01:05 AM
Money sent

JoshuaL

I transposed or just screwed up my email address in post #133
The correct one is

1secondwind@comcast.net

sorry, I will cover it if paypal cannot straighten it out. I would have thought it would reject an incorrect or not existent email. I have had that happen when I was given an odd email address.
Yours will go out tomorrow anyway. See if you got a rejection notice.
Sorry guess I'm trying to do too much. I got other issues going on here.

Hunner
10-07-2011, 01:15 AM
I tried emailing that wrong address and it comes back not deliverable, was not accepted so it does not exist. Please check you inbox for a reply from Pay-Pal or contact me and I will check into what to do.

3Hummers
10-07-2011, 01:32 AM
PayPal has always rejected payments I tried to send to wrong e-mail addresses. They should straighten it out.

06 H3
10-07-2011, 02:16 AM
I sent the money, let me know if you got it

JoshuaL
10-07-2011, 07:43 AM
Money resent. Tell me of you got it? :)

JoshuaL

Portager
10-07-2011, 09:12 AM
I'm trying to think, but nothing happens. (literary reference)

I've been trying to log into PalPay for 10 minutes, but nothing happens. I'll send my payment as soon as I get PayPal to work.

Hunner
10-07-2011, 09:21 AM
PayPal has always rejected payments I tried to send to wrong e-mail addresses. They should straighten it out.
I don't see yours, did you send it?


I sent the money, let me know if you got it
I do not see yours did you use 1secondwind@comcast.net?


Money resent. Tell me of you got it? :)


JoshuaL

GOT IT did you get some sort of notice from PayPal on the first one??

Thank you guys. Sorry for the F'up. Thanks for those that put your forum name in "NOTES" on the Pay-Pal payment. I have a lot of your real names and can match up some of them if you use the same email as before. It makes it easier to have that forum name on the payment.
I'm going to box up all I can today that I have addresses for or payment.

Hunner
10-07-2011, 09:29 AM
I'm trying to think, but nothing happens. (literary reference)

I've been trying to log into PalPay for 10 minutes, but nothing happens. I'll send my payment as soon as I get PayPal to work.

Maybe it's the alignment of the planets, I will email Astronomer and see if he knows if something is up.:huh:

JoshuaL
10-07-2011, 09:39 AM
No paypal didn't send a notice on the first one. I just had to go in and cancel that payment.

JoshuaL

Hunner
10-07-2011, 09:44 AM
Ok thanks I will tell F5 in case he does not see this.

I love the smell of a cut off blade in the morning. I'm going to finish cutting and blasting and pack up the ones I have addresses for and mail late this afternoon on those that are paid.
Thanks guys
Sometimers Dave:emb:

Bigunit
10-07-2011, 09:57 AM
$$ sent. Thanks Dave.

06 H3
10-07-2011, 11:01 AM
Resent let me know if u get it this time

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Hunner
10-07-2011, 11:34 AM
Resent let me know if u get it this time

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

I got it at 10:02.
Thanks

Portager
10-07-2011, 12:16 PM
Payment sent. Thanks a lot Dave.

TrailBreaker
10-07-2011, 04:26 PM
Ok, the Jury is back. And the general concensus from the tech department is a triple thumbs up!!!

I didnt get any pics of it since we are so busy today, but I had my suspension/steering expert install the sleeve and give his professional opinion. He is very impressed with it and how easy it installs and well how it keeps the rack secure to the frame.

The rest of the techs also took a look at it and agreed it is a far better solution than just replacing the bushings all the time.

I am going to go offroading tomorrow to put it through its paces and will report back as well.


But Hunner, this dealership gives you alot of props for this! A simple and economical solution to a very serious problem.

Next time you are in my neck of the woods, beers are on me!


Jason
TrailBreaker

Hunner
10-07-2011, 05:02 PM
That is awesome! I'm glad they got it in for you. It's nice to know I'm not completely crazy.:shifty:
I feel better, even with testing it 50,000+ miles that others with experience with these racks came to the same conclusion, it just works!
Check it from time to time to make sure they got a good clamp down. I would expect they did after what you have told me.
Did they try to see if it was tight without grinding or did they comment about doing a bit of grinding? I felt that mine was a better fit with just taking a little of the back of the bracket and lower mounting nut plate. Of course you cannot even see the top one!
Sounds great, have a great time. I think I have plenty of pictures, they all look the same:)
Let me know how many they want:shifty:

f5moab
10-07-2011, 05:15 PM
Just went in and cancelled the incorrect address, and resent to the correct address.

TrailBreaker
10-07-2011, 05:20 PM
That is awesome! I'm glad they got it in for you. It's nice to know I'm not completely crazy.:shifty:
I feel better, even with testing it 50,000+ miles that others with experience with these racks came to the same conclusion, it just works!
Check it from time to time to make sure they got a good clamp down. I would expect they did after what you have told me.
Did they try to see if it was tight without grinding or did they comment about doing a bit of grinding? I felt that mine was a better fit with just taking a little of the back of the bracket and lower mounting nut plate. Of course you cannot even see the top one!
Sounds great, have a great time. I think I have plenty of pictures, they all look the same:)
Let me know how many they want:shifty:

There was no grinding necessary, fit like a glove. The mounts are nice and tight, used an impact on them :)
.

JoshuaL
10-07-2011, 05:26 PM
I CAN'T WAIT! I'm starting to get excited

JoshuaL

Hunner
10-07-2011, 06:27 PM
There was no grinding necessary, fit like a glove. The mounts are nice and tight, used an impact on them :)
.
I did not grind on the one on my 06 when I did that. On the Alpha it did not seem as tight as I wanted but then I'm paranoid and did not want to have to do it but one more time so I did a little grinding, not much but it could have been my bracket was not flat on the back side and I noticed where that lower nut is welded in there was lumpy. Perhaps people should take the time and fit it first and see if it gets tight. I cut them in half and kept the halves together and fit them on my spare rack. I have about worn the paint off of it! It should not move at all in my opinion or it could slide out. That would result in the steering rack having excess movement and would need some attention. As you know with those size bolts torqued tight, it's in there! I have always carried a couple of brackets and rubber bushings, just in case or if someone else needed them. Having an extra rubber bushing would allow for any problem if the bushing was not tight and shifted. I don't think that can happen with proper installation.

Hunner
10-07-2011, 06:29 PM
I CAN'T WAIT! I'm starting to get excited

JoshuaL

That's because you know yours is "in the mail":shifty:

I mailed 8 today to people that paid. I can make a run in the morning if I get more paid. I will work tonight to get some more blasted.

H3-ING
10-07-2011, 09:06 PM
Paypal payment sent.

JR3T
10-08-2011, 01:21 AM
Paypal payment sent.
Thanks Hunner!

Hunner
10-08-2011, 01:32 AM
Update Today Monday
1 F5 shipped
2 Alrock
3 Joshual shipped
4 Ahana
5 06H3 shipped
6 Paladine71 ships Tues
7 3Hummers shipped
8 supersapper-rpm
9 cbetts shipped
10 djinco ships Tues
11 jgbb04
12 bunger shipped
13 bigunit shipped
14 kd7irm
15 H3slate ships Tues
16 NCalphadog shipped
17 H3ing shipped
18 xllkoyokollx
19 JR3T shipped
20 swank3T
21 Nacho ships Tues with front skids
22 TrailBreaker
23 midnightH3
24 ColoradoH3
25 08h3 ships Tues
26 reaper ships Tues
27 Portager shipped
28 H32NV
29 AZTraveler
30 5GN-H3T ship Tues
That is all of the original order of 30 spoken for, but not all have paid.
I will work on this list later tonight.

Hunner
10-09-2011, 02:31 PM
I have sent all the sleeve/bushings to people that sent me their address and emailed invoices to those that I had their email. I also sent some that paid after seeing the post on here that I have them ready to ship.
Everybody else can send me Pay-Pal payment now at

1secondwind@comcast.net

or send me an email and I can invoice you if you prefer that method. I may not hang around all week.
I have to keep my shipping department here at Hunner Hummer skunk works busy or they get distracted
Thanks
Dave Hunter aka Hunner
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2413.jpg

Paladine71
10-09-2011, 03:40 PM
Payment sent, thanks.

5gn-h3t
10-10-2011, 05:32 PM
:gaah:

17,xxx miles. Still under warranty but I don't think I'm going to bother with the dealer.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rBQJfPSbzQ


The steering gear flexes too much when off-roading

My steering gear is flexing too much when on-roading. :)

Hunner
10-10-2011, 06:23 PM
Hmmm must not just be a rumor.
I hear there is a fix for that!:shifty:
Who you gonna call?
I thought somebody said that was not engineering oversight that it was supposed to be that way?


I have a few more, right now.
I just cut some in half, better go media blast them.
Next shipment Tues
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2422.jpg

5gn-h3t
10-10-2011, 09:11 PM
Money sent!

Hunner
10-11-2011, 12:46 AM
Taking in to account I have 7 more spoken for from other sources
3 of those paid so far
I have 13 more available out of my amended order of 20 more at this time, and more (at some point) if I don't hear back from people I pm'ed or emailed or sent invoices to, I will start making those available.
So that's 13 left not spoken for out of the 50 I ordered.
After that I will have to renegotiate on the price for a smaller quantity and meet the minimum order.
Thanks to all of you that followed thru. I hope we can keep these rigs going for a long time.
Hunner
I'm going to explore other markets

06 H3
10-11-2011, 01:09 AM
After seeing that video and seeing the play in my steering and also seeing that I am at around 80k miles now I bet there is no bushing there. :giggle:

Sennin
10-11-2011, 02:05 AM
Hi Hunner,

Would you mind finding out what shipping would cost to my valley of the world?

I really want to ensure I have a reliable H3 that keeps on kicking dust in the eyes of the haters :thumbs:

Hunner
10-11-2011, 11:44 AM
:gaah:

17,xxx miles. Still under warranty but I don't think I'm going to bother with the dealer.

My steering gear is flexing too much when on-roading. :)

That is a good video. In mine I was concentrating on the pass side mount. Yours shows both that and the drivers side moving in the bushing down there. There are two mounts down there at two different angles which I think is good. They look to be pressed in firm bushings and can allow very little movement. However you can see by allowing the pass side to move it DOES put stress on the other end, eventually that has the potential to "crack the rack"
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/_DSC7429.jpg
Your Sleeve/bushing will go out this afternoon with several others.
Thanks

Hunner
10-11-2011, 12:00 PM
Hi Hunner,

Would you mind finding out what shipping would cost to my valley of the world?

I really want to ensure I have a reliable H3 that keeps on kicking dust in the eyes of the haters :thumbs:

pm or email me 1secondwind@comcast.net with your complete address so I can get a quote on shipping. USPS will ship international on that size and weight but I need more info.
I have already checked on Hawaii, Crete, Australia and Dubai for skids but not the sleeve.

Hunner
10-11-2011, 12:28 PM
After seeing that video and seeing the play in my steering and also seeing that I am at around 80k miles now I bet there is no bushing there. :giggle:

Well look, you can see it without removing the skid. Your pushing it if it is gone because the other end has to be taking abuse.
You should have yours today or tomorrow. Gitterdun!! While your in there give the two mounting bolts at the other end a tug. You might also want to check the tiny bolt that connects the steering shaft to the rack. I think it is 11mm.

MidnightH3
10-11-2011, 02:57 PM
Paypal sent! Thanks again!

My bushing was just about completely gone after about 70k miles, so I really suggest that everyone gets one of these! That video is great, mine does the same thing.

Hunner
10-11-2011, 03:37 PM
Just caught me headed to the PO. Yours is on the way and I got a paypal from one more lost sheep.
Thanks
The pile of sleeves is going away.
If everything else falls thru I can always get a job folding pizza boxes!!
Off to the PO 10/11
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2436.jpg

Big2dabank
10-11-2011, 03:40 PM
I was wondering if this mod would work on my wife's GMC Acadia, I'll have to check out how the rack is mounted. The rack and pinion looks very similar from what I recall. She obvisouly is not wheeling an Acadia, but she has a lot of play in the rack after 60,000 miles.

Hunner
10-11-2011, 03:52 PM
Check that out. I have looked at lots of racks, (drum roll) even some for vehicles other than Hummers. Surely something else uses these. They are made by the MONDO corporation in Korea so maybe they are KIA's I hope not.
Measure the diameter, accurately because it has to go around just short of reaching the straight cut side so it will compress.
Jaguar has one similar also.

06 H3
10-11-2011, 04:25 PM
Got it today! How long is the install? Depending on how long I may be able to do it today...just gotta paint it red first :)

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m600/SqueakyH3/2011-10-11_13-23-49_294.jpg

Hunner
10-11-2011, 05:42 PM
How good are you? ha ha Don't be in a hurry and it goes better. The top bolt is the clincher. In my install I shortened a long socket. Check that out. A flex head ratchet works and one with a bent handle saves some knuckles. The first time I tried to use an air ratchet on that top bolt and before I could stop it, it was wedged against the diff. That took awhile to get loose. I don't recommend air tools on the top one.
There is a portion at the end of the bolt that is not threaded that will help you guide it into the hole. If you got small hands you might get it started by hand. Or if you have a spinner attachment that you can attach to the socket you can slowly get it started with your fingers on that. It will have thread locker on it that is dried. If you wire wheel that off and add fresh locktite it will go in easier. You may have to wiggle the bracket a bit to get it to line up. Once that one is started I put in the lower one but thought they were both really long. I was concerned about messing up the threads I did not cut it. It seems long. So if you look in my pictures I added some thick washers. There were still plenty of threads that went thru the welded in nut plate. Your call on that. When I got them run up all the way, I used a 3/8 ratchet handle I have that extends. You need more leverage than a shorty. I got it as tight as I could which was until it stopped turning and a grunt or two, depending on how big your biceps are.:)
First time could take about an hour to remove the skid, remove the bracket and rubber bushing, if there is one, ha ha and put it all back together.
One short cut you might try with this 2 inch sleeve/bushings is remove the lower bolt completly. Loosen the top one to get some slack and work out the rubber bushing and try to slide the steel sleeve/bushing under the bracket. There is a tab on the bottom of the bracket that if you have it loose enough you can jiggle it out from under the slot on the frame. If not, you got to remove both bolts. After several times testing the fit for the first one I just cut the damn thing off! Having too many tools can sometimes result in drastic measures!

Somebody let me know if the 2 inch sleeve fits without disturbing the tie rod boot and clamp.
I made these shorter than my prototype 3 inch so the stiffer replacement boots would also go on.
sorry I have been rushed to write some of this. I will try to get time to review it.

I know you had some experience with the diff mount. The dealer that did this said they have been replacing the rubber ones by dropping the diff while up on a rack to get room to reach that top one. I don't think I would try that at home.
Got questions or don't understand all that let me know. Just think it thru and take your time. Don't start making up new words and don't cuss the messenger.:shifty:

06 H3
10-11-2011, 06:22 PM
Alrighty It doesnt seem like a tough install just a Pain in the ass. I have delt with plenty of pain in the ass bolts before. I probably wont have enough time today but I will probably tackle this thursday. You guys can wait and I will help give input also or someone can give this a go first. Hunner, I am sure you can picture me trying to get that bolt in cursing like a sailor but dont worry the messenger did a good job in just getting this for us so dont worry too much. Thanks again. I do have enough time to paint it red though, so I will do that today. lol

Hunner
10-11-2011, 07:02 PM
I am a sailor, but I did it when no one was around!:shifty:Funny thing is I don't feel like cussing when I'm sailing???
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/nineknots.jpg

5gn-h3t
10-11-2011, 10:37 PM
Excuse my ignorance, but why do you have to cut the clamp on tie rod boot?

Hunner
10-11-2011, 11:07 PM
Maybe I should go back and edit the way I said that. It's supposed to be tight enough to stay on the end of the rack. If you take it off to put the sleeve/bushing on then with the clamp tightened to fit and crimped it might not slide back on. If you can get the sleeve/bushing on without removing it that would be best. I was just thinking of worse case scenario when I wrote that.
I made the sleeve short enough you may be able to get it on without moving the boot, if you completely remove the bracket.
Has it been that long since I saw a stock tie rod and boot? That is correct isn't it?? I slept since then.
In case you don't know I have BP tie rods and when I first did this I had to put the boot over the sleeve because I made mine 3 inches and it extended to the end of the rack. Then I tried the new PVC boots and realized those would not go over the sleeve so shortened them.
Never mind me I just popped in and wrote that before having to leave.
Maybe somebody will report on how they did theirs with the stock tie rods.
I hope it works out so you don't have to disturb the boot.
carry on
This is JUST on mine that the boot used to go over the sleeve. I run a shorter one now.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2274.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/9943.jpg

JoshuaL
10-12-2011, 07:11 PM
Just got mine today:horns:. I got it painted to match the H3 I know it will get dirty but I couldn't help my self. I'm going to install it on saturday it's the first day I have off
1493

Thanks Hunner

JoshuaL

Hunner
10-12-2011, 08:06 PM
There is no other way I can figure out how to tell you if it fits tight on each H3/H3T except to put it in there and tighten up the clamp. With both front wheels off the ground so there is no pressure on the rack see if you can push and pull on the wheel and if the rack moves. If it does you gots to try grinding on the bracket. I had to do mine, don't know why except the top and bottom of the bracket on the curved part right before they bend up a tab for the bolts to go thru are tighter than the entire curved part. I don't know any other way to say that. I had to grind a little on the inside of the bracket at each tab so it would go over the sleeve.
It will be interesting to hear how everybody finds this install to be on their vehicle. I feel better the guys did one at a dealership and had no problems. It is definitely a custom fit.
Post up if you have any questions. I have done it about 10 times while figuring it out.

cbetts
10-12-2011, 09:39 PM
Got mine in the mail today! I am going to wait until December since that is when my warranty expires.

Paladine71
10-14-2011, 09:46 PM
Part arrived today, thanks.

DJinCO
10-14-2011, 10:13 PM
Mine arrived today also!
Thanks Hunner!

5gn-h3t
10-14-2011, 10:42 PM
Me three!
Thanks

Bigunit
10-14-2011, 10:51 PM
Me 4!

Nacho
10-15-2011, 01:14 AM
Mine as well. Thanks Hunner

Hunner
10-15-2011, 10:23 AM
Well after shipping 37 of these trying to keep the matched halves together I have screwed up. Someone got a mismatched pair. So that may mean so did someone else. Check them and let me know. I will replace them but need the others back as I don't know if I will order that many again. I will paypal you shipping if you are the other half of this. If I find out today I can send another.
I can see the one on the left is one I had to cut and the beveled edges are not both at the same end.
"stuff happens"
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/swanksleeve.jpg

5gn-h3t
10-15-2011, 02:32 PM
My set is a little off but I really don't think it is enough to cause an issue.

1555


REPLY from Hunner
No not really. That is about as accurate as they get. The point is to compress it so it locks in. When you clamp it the teeth align putting tension on the joint.
Here is a new 3 inch uncut like they come.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2504.jpg
This is the same one compressed. They are spring steel.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_2503.jpg
It was my understanding that when the teeth are stamped it relieves tension of the piece so they offset slightly until compressed.
Even with the backside cut when the bracket compresses the two halves they come together. That is why I recommend putting the teeth downward so you can see them come together.
That other one is way off and is two different halves with them turned two different ends around which can be seem by the cut ends and beveled end being opposite.
Operator error:emb:

5gn-h3t
10-15-2011, 04:13 PM
Here's the tools I used for the install:
Vice Grips - To bend that evil little tang out of the way on the bottom of the bracket
Short 15mm socket
Long 15mm socket
3/8" Ratchet
Cheater bar
Long flat head screwdriver (not pictured)
1556

Upper bolt comes out slow, but isn't as bad as some make it sound.

Finished product:
1557

The sleeve fits tight in the bracket. Rather than grinding anything, I slightly opened up the bracket by gently bending the ears out it in a vise.

Total install time with paint and 2 posts on H4O was about an hour. I already had the skids down from an oil change, so add some time for that.

Thanks Hunner.

Hunner
10-15-2011, 04:37 PM
See I was using reverse psychology so you would think it was not that bad. The first time I did it I must not have been in the mood. I can only start it with the tips of my longest two fingers a flat at a time.
I know how you fell about that tab.
Glad you handled it ok.

5gn-h3t
10-15-2011, 04:41 PM
Oh yeah, I cleaned the factory locking compound off with a die before I put the bolts back in. Definitely time well spent.

Hunner
10-15-2011, 05:13 PM
Glad to get a report and pictures. I was concerned there could be a variable on how far on the rack those stock tie rod boots were. Does not move now does it??
I guess just my Alpha needed grinding. I mentioned before I did not have to on my 06 I-5. Don't know why that was that way.
I have noticed when I put the bracket on it is tight at first at the top and bottom but after the ends go over the curve it seats down on the bushing on mine.
Now go play and test it. Check it after doing some flexing and make sure it stayed tight. Did you have the wheels off the ground when you installed it? That seems to be when I could move things around the most with the rubber bushing in there. On the ground it puts force on the bracket and it is hard to get it to move unless actually driving over bumps. Which is why it is hard to diagnose.
Good Job!

5gn-h3t
10-15-2011, 08:48 PM
I installed it with the wheels on the ground. Then I jacked up the passenger side and shook the hell out of the wheel. The rack didn't move a bit. However, the tie rod did. I think the inner tie rod on the passenger side has some play in it.

My review:
Installing the sleeve was easier than trying to get a stock bushing back in there.
There is absolutely no movement in the rack.
The steel sleeve cost less than the trip to the former Hummer dealer. (90 miles each way at 15mpg)
It will last much longer than the rubber bushing.
I notice no increase in vibration or cabin noise with the steel sleeve compared to the rubber bushing.
:thumbs::thumbs:

Hunner
10-15-2011, 09:54 PM
Again thanks for sharing your install experience with us all.
If you don't have a spare tie rod to look at here is all there is at that end.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/_DSC6486.jpg
That end shaft before the ball is the same size on both the 14mm and 16mm. There could be slight movement of the rack inside the tube there at the end. There is a seal at the end also. I have seen reports of people having that leak and the tie rod boot gets fluid in it. Only way to find out what is moving would be to remove the boot to check the tie rod end. You do carry spares, right? Like I have said many times the more your torsions are cranked up and resulting tie rod angle increase the more they push up instead of in and out.
Heavier bigger tires and wheels add to the stress knocking things around.
Some of the movement could also be from upper a-arm bushings. This is a video but it does not seem to sync sound and is slow to respond. Maybe I need to build a new computer next?
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/th_20110306182610.jpg (http://s913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/?action=view&current=20110306182610.mp4)
I also improved the next thing in line.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/BP7100.jpg
but that's a whole nuther story...........................

alrock
10-16-2011, 01:01 AM
Got my sleeve - and the two halves match. Now, I just need some guy from Arkansas to come out here with his toolbox . . .

5gn-h3t
10-16-2011, 04:30 AM
Well, I wanted to test the steering.

I ended up testing the CV shafts.
The passenger side moves more than a box of cracker jack.:gaah:

I'll post some pics tomorrow.

If you have an H3 CV shaft, PM me.

Hunner
10-16-2011, 10:57 AM
Got my sleeve - and the two halves match. Now, I just need some guy from Arkansas to come out here with his toolbox . . .
I got a feeling there is another mis-match out there somewhere. Maybe they will both come home to be re-united. I'm paying return shipping.
I would like very much to head out west but if I do I will probably take the more northern route. I hate I-40. There are three of you out that way with the sleeves, you need to have an install party.:shifty:

Hunner
10-16-2011, 11:32 AM
Well, I wanted to test the steering.

I ended up testing the CV shafts.
The passenger side moves more than a box of cracker jack.:gaah:

I'll post some pics tomorrow.



If you have an H3 CV shaft, PM me.

Have you been running that turbo?
That CV shaft is going to be a bit more involved.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_4858-1.jpg

5gn-h3t
10-17-2011, 04:03 PM
Have you been running that turbo?

I'm still a forced induction poseur.


That CV shaft is going to be a bit more involved.

It's just righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.

Steve #1
10-18-2011, 03:35 AM
Mine showed up late Sat and I tossed it in the back of the truck and was to busy Sun. My wife has prety much stolen the 3 from me but I'll try to catch up with it and see if my halfs match.

Steve #1
10-22-2011, 01:09 PM
HUNNER, I have a mis-matched set just the opposite of yours. :woot:

08H3
10-22-2011, 05:16 PM
First, I need to emphasize that my experience is NOT a problem, defect, or any way attributable to Hunner's sleeve. That said, I'll also admit that I did not read every single post thoroughly in this thread, so it may already have been addressed.

I pulled my bushing out and put in Hunner's sleeve and had a huge amount of play. I installed it tooth down as Hunner described, so rotated it 180 to make sure the back side was not touching. It was touching, so I thought I found the problem, took off just a little material and reinstalled. No dice. Still tons of play.

Backing up a couple months, I had put in a brand new OEM rubber bushing and had play, I was hoping Hunner's mod would fix it, but no such luck. I'm certain that what has happened is 75,000 miles of midwest winters, wheeling, and other mud and muck thrown up there has actually worn the outside diamater of the rack down to where there isn't going to be a correct fix short of a new rack of makng a custom undersized bushing. No time for that right now, so I went back to my shim method I used on the rubber bushing. As has been pointed out, you need to be careful not to throw the rack out of line and put lateral stress on it. You're only shimming it to the point that you're making up for the wear. In my case, it was 2 shims that I had laying around from a starter (sorry, no mics handy, so I can't give you the thickness). Place those between the crossmember and the sleeve, making sure it doesn't go behind the retaining bracket, or you'll defeat the purpose. This tightened up everything for me....for now. I've been shimming the rubber busing for 30,000 miles now in one form or another, so hopefully this will last a while too.

Hunner
10-22-2011, 11:33 PM
The backside of my bushing SHOULD touch and the bracket should compress it against the frame. If it does not, grind the bracket or lower welded nut until it does.
that will be an interesting picture at some point to see that worn rack. Even more reason to replace it BEFORE you have lots of movement.
Posted from Lander Wyoming just 4 hours from Yellowstone, I'm going to make it this time, got chains??
Keep us posted and let me know if I can add any info.

08H3
10-23-2011, 08:25 AM
I've got a spare bracket. I'll try to grinding that down and put it in there during the next oil change.

Hunner
10-30-2011, 01:04 PM
This first rack was the one on my 06 that broke. There is more wear there than just paint.
The second one is off the Alpha with about 30,000 on it. It must have been loose for awhile.
This second one also shows that welded in nut at the bottom. On mine the upper edge of that was raised higher than the lower portion and kept the bracket from sitting flat.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/7430.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/9934wear.jpg
It appears to me the way they come the bracket does not fit tight around the rubber bushing to start with. Then miles and cranking the t-bars which causes more upward force from the tie rods and bigger tires and the way we use these, to use a country term, "wallars out" the bushing and rack tube.

Hunner
11-01-2011, 10:57 AM
HUNNER, I have a mis-matched set just the opposite of yours. :woot:

TADAAY! there it is. I have one on the way. I missed this while I was gone. PMed ya.
Sorry bout that. Now I owe you a brusky or 3 in Galveston on the beach. :shifty:
I will also refund your first $5.20 shipping.:thumbs:

kd7irm
11-01-2011, 11:02 AM
Hey Hunner, sorry I haven't been on in a while but I did get all the stuff, skids and sleeve. Thank you! Very solid quality stuff, looks like it is built to last a lifetime.

Now to get it all installed on the 3.....


Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Bigunit
11-01-2011, 11:31 AM
Wes, if you want to make a trip down to Tucson, I'll help you get everything on. I have all the tools we'll need except a welder for the front leaf spring mount skids , but we can take it to my friend's shop (he's the guy who's been on Monster Garage) & he'll weld those on for you real quick.

kd7irm
11-01-2011, 11:46 AM
Wes, if you want to make a trip down to Tucson, I'll help you get everything on. I have all the tools we'll need except a welder for the front leaf spring mount skids , but we can take it to my friend's shop (he's the guy who's been on Monster Garage) & he'll weld those on for you real quick.

Big that would be freaking awesome! If you are serious, it would be well worth the drive to Tucson! Maybe I could swing by and kidnap alex on the way, lol.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Bigunit
11-01-2011, 12:01 PM
Yep, I'm serious & I'm sure that Alex would gladly jump in your rig or follow you in his. Since now that we have a plan, let's figure out when! This weekend will be tight because I have to attend the UofA game & a big tailgate party on Saturday (it's homecoming weekend). Once we get all that stuff on & asuming we have some time, we'll take it on a local trail & test everything out! :thumbs:

Hunner
11-01-2011, 01:00 PM
Team cooperation. It's a Hummer owner thing.

kd7irm
11-01-2011, 01:17 PM
Cool, sounds good! I will pick up some paint and rattle can them this weekend :) let me know if the next weekend would work for ya or maybe a weekday.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Hunner
11-02-2011, 05:42 PM
Just a bump for these. I still have 10 or so left. I need to cut and blast the rest of them but they will be ready to go in a days notice.
Thanks

Hunner
11-29-2011, 08:22 PM
Just a note;
I have 3 full sets of skids left from the last batch and some steering rack sleeve/bushings.
Set of skids still $165 shipped on this batch. The sleeve/bushing is $40 shipped or
when bought and shipped together are $200 shipped for both.
Not sure what price they will hit me up for next time, probably next year now.:huh:

Steve #1
12-31-2011, 11:17 PM
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/2301.jpg



Is this how it should look when tightened down all the way? Mine looks like that but im still getting some movement inside and outside the bushing. This is still after I ground down the bracket and the mounting point.

The bracket and the cylinder both had ware on them when I took it apart.

I've been up for the past 23 hours and working on this for the past 9. Any advice would be appreciated (other than to put it to bed for the night because that's what I'm about to do :) ).

Hunner
12-31-2011, 11:34 PM
All I know to tell you is when you get the bracket so that it will squeeze the sleeve tight you should not be able to move the sleeve. Sorry you are having trouble. I stuck the one in my 06 and it just worked. On the Alpha I had to grind on the bracket and mounting point.
I can't figure out how to describe that bracket.
It looked like it was supposed to dip down on the back side of the rack right where the heal of the bend is before the mounting hole. Like wrap around a bit. That heal area is where I ground on mine to allow it to pull down the sleeve tight. I know it can be tough to get in there the first time. I finally have it down now.
If it is squeezed together out at the ends of the area where the holes are that will make it pucker out at the rounded area instead of pushing on the sleeve.
That picture you posted is how the teeth should come together. That is the 3 inch one I used for awhile with the BP tie rods. It comes out to that end nut on the rack. The 2 inch ones are back from the end an inch to let the OEM tie rod boot slip over to the end of it but not over it. That was what I figured out because the old boots were rubber and would go over it but the new replacement boots I got from the dealer to check it out were hard, not pliable, like pvc or something and would not go over the sleeve. So now there is an inch to have room for the boots. Let make it clear though you do not have to remove the OEM tie rod boot to get the sleeve on.
Yeah maybe sleep, and look at it next year?
Happy New Year anyway and let me know if you have any more problems.

Steve #1
01-07-2012, 09:04 PM
Worked on it more today and think I made progress (time will tell). I took a hair of material off the bushing where it was cut which stopped the bushing from moving on the bracket but the shaft was still moving in the bushing. I used a section of inner tube that I attached to the inside of the bushing with some insanely sticky glue stuff that my buddy had in his tool box. There is still a very small amount of movement (1-2mm) but it is completely lateral and considering the original design I would consider it acceptable. I no longer have slop in the steering wheel while driving on the highway. I'm going to keep a very close eye on the inner tube to make sure it stays put.

BTW: I realized this week that the one I needed to send back to you never made it to the post office. Very sorry about that. I'll get it on its way to you Monday morning.

Hunner
01-08-2012, 02:20 AM
I was cutting each one and fitting them to my extra rack. I tried to grind where they were cut until that had a slight gap so they could be compressed better. Hope you got that worked out. Other than that I did a bit of grinding on the backside of the bracket. It's definitely beginning to look like there are slight variations depending on how worn the bracket and rack tube were.
I thought about the rubber but was concerned it too might squeese out. I think the bracket grinding for me was the best.
Funny you mention that set that was offset. I was out in the shop working on my bumper design and opened the wrench drawer and there was the other set.
I thought that was the one you sent and there was still one more. Now I'm know I'm only loosing part of my mind.
It's great to have back that new feeling of solid steering, Huh?
I think some people get used to it gradually and just live with it.
Every since I broke a steering shaft on a Nader special, (corvair) in a tight sweeping turn and did more donuts than I could count at 80 miles an hour I have always tried to be very cautious of any steering that does not feel right. That feeling when the steering wheel spins and nothing happens still haunts me.
The rear engine kept the loops even until I slid down the embankment and hit a mud wall of a field higher than the shoulder. It was raining which helped the spin instead of a roll.

Hunner
01-13-2012, 12:31 PM
Thanks Steve, I got the orphaned pieces back and mated them with their proper halves. So now I have two more available.
I think I have 4 others left out of that batch out in the shop I got discounted for quantity. So I have some if anyone wants to get one for later repair.

auggie mathis
01-13-2012, 01:25 PM
I still believe this is one of the best mods that I have ever done to my truck.

Hunner
01-13-2012, 02:53 PM
Good, glad it worked out for you.
The only other thing I might could have done was allow the bushing to touch the frame but have little wings out from that to have more of a surface to contact that area. That would have been more involved and expensive. Since I have run one so many miles on two different H3's it is apparently going to work like it is.

H32NV
02-13-2012, 12:20 PM
Got mine done!
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/1728/img1539no.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/img1539no.jpg/)
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/7708/img1541ar.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/15/img1541ar.jpg/)

Hunner
02-13-2012, 07:45 PM
Did you have any trouble getting it tight? Be sure and check it because it will be different jacked up and on the ground the amount of leverage applied to the rack.
Depending on which way you check it sometimes it may change whichever way allowed some movement.
Tricky stuff for some people and not for others. I think if depends on how long it was run loose and how much that distorted the bracket.
Do you have the halves top and bottom instead front to back. I have tried it both ways.
Kinda close quarters on that top bolt huh?

H32NV
02-13-2012, 08:56 PM
def close quarters. I have them top and bottom yeah. and i epoxied a piece of ripstop nylon webbing into the C bracket and press-fit it onto the steering rack, bolted down tight, no movement now. I took video before and after. you could see the steering rack "jump" up and down without this mod, the bushing was totally worn out!

06 H3
02-13-2012, 09:57 PM
my bushing was shot too...I also may have some slack on the other end of the rack too. intermediate shaft? I have talked to hunner about that. When I installed my lift I looked at my rack and it isnt split but its has a small gap...Hopefully you installed this mod before the damage was already done.

Hunner
02-13-2012, 11:52 PM
Ok for you that don't want to try my grinding method, try using this rubber fiber reinforced gasket material. I tried it back when I was figuring this out along with the OEM rubber bushing but that did not work out. The OEM rubber bushing still had too much movement. I got it at an ACE Hardware store and you get three sheets to a package.
I just tried and I can only get one layer on one half of the sleeve and still pull the bracket up flush. I left it wide so it would show up but I would trim it to the width of the sleeve. Then use some contact cement for good measure and glue it to the bracket and sleeve. Squeeze that sucker together and I think that will work. I used a strip of metal as the frame and clamped it until it was flush. I can't rotate it on the rack shaft.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_3791.jpg
However here is a random bracket and bushing set up the same way without the rubber gasket material and I could clamp it tight enough I could not rotate it even using the c-clamp as a lever.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/3760.jpg
I still think some of those brackets are not conforming to the sleeve and are not tightening up.
Someone posted they squeezed the bracket ends together some but just enough the holes still line up.
I'm sorry a few of you are having the fitment problem but you just got to get it tight which ever method you use.
When you do it firms up your steering and will hopefully allow an undamaged rack to keep going. It has worked for me as I mentioned combined on the 06 and 08 for over 50,000 miles.
Post up if you come up with some other method if you can't stand the thought of grinding.
I should mention again I prefer the sleeve halves to press together front to back to get the maximum surface area to press on.

06 H3
02-14-2012, 12:49 AM
Thanks hunner, I like the gasket idea. I may post up some pics of my rack to see what others think...It may be best to take it off put it in storage and use it as a spare...

JR3T
02-20-2012, 02:13 AM
I finally got around to installing the sleeve. Mine too was not fully clamped without modification.

Had some paint worn off.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/J3T35/Steering Rack Clamp/DSC00290.jpg

I had about 1/16" between sleeve and top of clamp when fully tightened.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/J3T35/Steering Rack Clamp/DSC00300.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/J3T35/Steering Rack Clamp/DSC00303.jpg


So, I sandwiched a piece of 1/8" stainless steel sheet metal under the rack to create a better clamping force.
Added some JB Weld to keep the spacer in position.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/J3T35/Steering Rack Clamp/DSC00305.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/J3T35/Steering Rack Clamp/DSC00318.jpg

Clamp now makes good contact with the sleeve.

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/J3T35/Steering Rack Clamp/DSC00331.jpg

http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/J3T35/Steering Rack Clamp/DSC00333.jpg

Thanks for sleeve Hunner. Feels good and solid now.

06 H3
02-20-2012, 02:21 AM
great minds think alike...lol I did the same thing! I may have some problems though...I didnt JB weld mine to it so there is some slight movement still and it can put an angle to the rack which can cause some stress on the other end. I did the same thing with the same intentions feeling pretty smart too :D then hunner gave me the precaution of it putting the rack at an angle...He said it may cause issues or it may not...hopefully he chimes in here soon.

Btw your sandwich plate looks nicer then mine! :thumbs:

JR3T
02-20-2012, 02:32 AM
great minds think alike...lol I did the same thing! I may have some problems though...I didnt JB weld mine to it so there is some slight movement still and it can put an angle to the rack which can cause some stress on the other end. I did the same thing with the same intentions feeling pretty smart too :D then hunner gave me the precaution of it putting the rack at an angle...He said it may cause issues or it may not...hopefully he chimes in here soon.

Btw your sandwich plate looks nicer then mine! :thumbs:

I'll keep an eye on it. Hope it doesn't go anywhere.
As for the induced angle, I pondered its ramifications for a moment but decided it's only 1/8" which I think is negligible compared to how much slop was in that rubber bushing. Couldn't think of anything else to hold it in better with the stuff in my garage. Didn't want to put any rubber fiber material in there after seeing how quick my original bushing had slid out from the clamp. I'll have to take some final measurements and see what, if any, difference there is between driver and passengers side gaps.

06 H3
02-20-2012, 02:39 AM
Mine is a small thickness too. It may not effect it or it may. Hunner just told me to watch out. Did u jb weld the back to the frame or the sandwich to the sleeve?

How did u get that bend also? I like ur plate better haha

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

JR3T
02-20-2012, 04:15 AM
Mine is a small thickness too. It may not effect it or it may. Hunner just told me to watch out. Did u jb weld the back to the frame or the sandwich to the sleeve?

How did u get that bend also? I like ur plate better haha

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

I just put JB between frame and the spacer, nothing on top of it.
Was a scrap bracket I had. Trimmed it to size.
Hope it holds and nothing shifts. Will find out pretty soon in Moab.
I have another one of the same brackets I could trim down for you, if you need/want one.
PM me an address and I will mail it to you.

Hunner
02-20-2012, 11:39 AM
As you guys that have had you head up in there know, the other end does have two rubber bushings in those mounts. So I think that can take some misalignment without undo force. I don't know for sure I was just being cautious by using a sleeve that was about the same thickness as the rubber bushing on the pass side.
Not moving at the pass side once clamped should help by not transmitting that leverage down to the other end. The brackets do have a weird curve to them but the sleeve will press down to conform to it if you either grind where it touches the frame and lower mounting surface or like JR3T did with the plate. I was just hoping that would not be needed.
Auggie ordered a new bracket. He said his was distorted. I don't have those pics yet. I think I mentioned this before but the longer you run with a boogered up rubber bushing the more all that moves around and leverages on that bracket.
I'm glad to see you guys getting them in there.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/_DSC7429.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/2280.jpg
also make sure there is a gap in the two halves on the edge I cut. That will allow it to squeeze onto the tube.

Hunner
02-20-2012, 11:59 AM
quote JR3T
I had about 1/16" between sleeve and top of clamp when fully tightened.
http://i599.photobucket.com/albums/tt80/J3T35/Steering Rack Clamp/DSC00300.jpg
quote JR3T

That is because the clamp cannot full engage that curve because the clamp was supposed to hold the mushy rubber busing in place with out smashing it, so much for that idea huh?
I think the set up on my 06 worked because since I did not have OEM tie rod boots going as far on the rack, plus I had the old rubber stretchy boots so I was able to get a 3 inch sleeve in between the hydraulic fitting and the end rack nut and slide the boot over all of that.
The Alpha I did the grinding on the bracket until it squeezed the bracket down to close that gap and press the sleeve into the curve of the bracket.
If while you have a bracket off anyone can take the sleeve and tap it into that curve to see it fit. It will try to pop back out because this stuff is spring steel without being held in place against the tube.
I'm glad you guys that are doing it have the ingenuity to fit it properly in your own way.
Mine is in there solid for now. I ran Moab the last time I was out there with that one in there and around here on many trails. I would recommend the more you wheel hard the more you should check it for tightness.
I'm going to order some more so if anyone has a problem let me know so we can fix it. I don't think you can mess up the sleeve!
Mod on!

Hunner
02-20-2012, 12:15 PM
This is another method or at least another way to explain it. If you squeeze the ends of the bracket together more it will conform to the sleeve. I put one over the spare rack and squeezed it with the c clamp then removed it and it stayed in place. The mounting holes are slotted left to right. After doing this it might take a bit of grinding up and down if the holes do not line up properly.
The black between the silver end nut and sleeve is the tube not a gap. I need a different angle on that or more involved lighting. gotta run right now.
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_3895.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_3896.jpg
http://i913.photobucket.com/albums/ac336/DHunter_bucket/DAH_3899.jpg

06 H3
02-21-2012, 12:04 AM
Hunner you also mentioned to me in emails to weld the plate on there? Maybe I just need a new bracket....Mine has 85k miles on it and the rack has seen better days. It isnt seperated like the one pic but definitely has a slight gap...not sure if that gap is normal or not...

Have you ever changed the bushings out on the rack mounts? Mine have some play too. This is one of the things I gotta resolve before moab

Hunner
02-21-2012, 12:07 AM
The bracket was not real high. I have several for research. You could try squeezing it first unless it's twisted.
I have changed racks! lol
you can tighten those two bolts on the driver side and take up some of that movement.
But you should not have that movement you showed me in the steering shaft down from the steering wheel. Did you check on that?

06 H3
02-21-2012, 12:16 AM
I havent checked the steering shaft yet...Luckily I have no work tomorrow and I shouldnt have too much homework. Maybe I can check it then

silvrzuki77
03-11-2012, 02:20 PM
disregard

silvrzuki77
03-11-2012, 02:31 PM
sorry dont know how to delete post. lol

Hunner
03-11-2012, 03:36 PM
I saw what you posted thru the email notice. That was alot of movement laterally. Check the two bolts on the drivers side and make sure they are tight.
I think the pass side bracket is supposed to be more support than preventing movement laterally but it of course does some of both. With as much movement as I saw in that video it almost makes me thing your rack is broken. Hopefully not and if it was the short hydraulic line would have surely broken. Check down where the black tube meets the cast aluminum gear box and make sure there is not a gap.
It would be best if you could squeeze the clamp together some to fit the sleeve better, as I showed in some of the latest posts. That is more easily done with it off the vehicle either with a large vice and or c-clamp. I prefer that method rather than using some sort of shim out of rubber that might get destroyed over time.
Let us know what you come up with.