H1 Switched Cigar Lighters Outlets.

Hey All...
Have you ever wished that the cigar lighters/outlets were turned on and off with the ignition? I have a radar detector, wireless backup sensor, and a XM radio that I always forget to unplug when I'm done driving. That usally leads to a dead battery. The H1, H2, and H3 all have cigar lighters that are always on no matter what the vehicle is doing.
If you're interested in switching those outlets, I have a quick and easy way without any modifications to the internal wires. Easy to install and easy to put back to normal. It's really Plug & Play.
You build a quick and easy circuit that takes around 15 min and about $8. Take out 2 fuses, and plug in your new circuit. Everything stays protected with the correct fuse ratings. When you turn off the ignition, those outlets will go dead. I did this with all of my vehicles. In fact when you sell that vehicle, you can unplug the circuit and keep it for the next vehicle. As long as it uses the mini fuses. Most do.
If there is any interest in this, I'll scan my little sketch and add it to this thread.

Id be interested to see this.

:agree:

I would like to have it like my wife's truck where one is on full time and the other ignition switched. Definitely interested in seeing your setup so I can do it to one of the two.


"Ex Umbris Venimus"

Sent from my iPhone

Well, Here it is... It looks tough but really isnt.
I hope all can read and understand it.

Forgive the crappy handwriting. I'm also going to explain this procedure in great detail for those that haven't had this kind of experience. It really is easy. Don't let the explaintion scare you.
The easiest way to do this is to:
1. Build the circuit first. Use good FLEXABLE 14-16 GA wires. Make the ground wire is long and cut to length when you find a good grounding screw.
2. Locate the switched fuse location (aux ignition or radio fuse.) My 97 H1 uses the fuse location shown in the print. Take it out carefully and insert it in the new fuse tap (tap with the red wire attached in the lower position closest to the pins - shows a red 10A fuse) shown in the picture. BTW I have the original 30A fuse in that position. The picture is from another project. The new fuse for the relay coil should be as small as possible. Around 1A or 2A. Just enough to drive the relay coil. The smallest I found was a 5A. It works but overkill.
3. Locate the outlet fuse you want to switch. Pull that fuse and plug it into the new inline fuse holder.
4. Find GOOD Ground as close as possible to your fuse box. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD ELECTRICAL GROUND or it will not work. Use a good connector to place under that ground screw and tighten down.
5. Important: With both fuses out of your vehicle fuse block, locate the side of each empty fuse slot that has NO voltage. An empty slot will have two holes. Example: The switched fuse hole, one hole has 12 volts when key is on and the other hole has 0 volts. Make sure the fuse tap is plugged in with the wire side of the tap in the 0 volt hole. This is to protect the coil wire.
6. Carefully plug in the first fuse tap (it has two fuses) into the switched fuse hole per #5 instruction.
7. Carefully insert the two separate fuse taps into the outlet fuse holes. This can be tricky. Dont let them touch together. Nothing bad will happen, just the outlet be on all the time. You can modify a spade connector as shown in the picture. They do make a good tap that you can buy. It has the same pin shape as the fuse and fits well.
The polarity doesnt matter here. The inline fuse used will protect the outlet.
8. Place everything in a spot where it's out of the way and tie it down to prevent it from moving around. Double check the two fuse taps in the outlet slot. Moving the wires around (if you have stiff wires) can loosen the pins and fall out. Make sure you have a good tight connection.

When finished my 97 H1 has the two cigar outlets switched when ever the key is in the ignition position. The power outlet (next to the radio) is untouched and stays on all the time. Ive done this before on 4 of my other vehicles. 3 Hummers and a new Ford F150. All worked great for many years.

Now for the CYA part of this..... I am not responsible for anything you do to your ride. Make sure you know what you are doing.
If done correctly, all will work fine.

If anyone has questions, let me know on this thread. They're might be others with the same question. If you wish you can also PM me.

This link is for a somewhat different and simpler method of making one of the 12V outlets switched with the ignition that worked for my H3T:

http://www.hummer4x4offroad.com/for...imple-Switched-12V-Outlet&p=165522#post165522